Wow! You know..... I wonder what an 18" subwoofer would sound like. That's it! Maybe you should try testing some 18s. I think that would be really awesome and sound super good. I love music, car audio, and bass, although my setup is in my house. I appreciate your videos young man. Good job Parker.
Dude great Vid I have 2 of the LCS 12D4 on 1998 MTX Thunder1501D moded to accept 1ohm. All1/0awg with 2 xspower 3400d. Its true output on burps is in the 2200w range best I can figure. 210+/-amp draw around 75% efficient would be fuzz over 2200w. Those 2 Sundown 300w lcs have been taking every ounce of it. No smells no bottoming out.
I have 8 of these lcs 12s no wall on a audiopipe 4K and they have surpassed my expectations. In fact they need more power so a 8k will be on them soon. They don’t look like much but for the price I can’t complain at all 🤘
Hell ya buddy!!! I love sundown and now thanx to your videos I now know about that sub only being 90 fricken bucks!! You do a awesome job with these videos bud!! Keep it up
I been watching your videos for a long while now and everytime i hear you say how black resin coated coils are better over just copper coils well it makes me cringe lol. The reason why companies cover the coils in resin is to save money. Glue/resin whatever we want to call it is used to cut cost and because the coils are weak, not enough copper to them. Covering the coil with resin gives the coil more heat resistance but not longer life. Copper will always be a better material and conductor for the job. That's why sundown coils are beast. Great quality copper and winding. Great videos keep em rolling.
@@ParkerTheBasshead Hey parker is there anyway you can help me decide on whether i shud get the Sundown lcs-12 or the Skar Sdr 12? Which is bit better in your opinion?
For the price I believe it was Awesome cant ask for more and if that little air leak was affecting it it still did well so I say great buy at 90 $ So Great Review 👏👏
Parker I was a little critical of your last review but you totally redeemed your self. Great review! I can't believe how well that little Sundown did.. It is my new 300w fav
@@Ronco160 plenty of good options from quality brands , imo the 35$ more for nvx vcw is a HUGE jump in subwoofer for the money, triple the handling power + , double the xmax , 2" vs 3" long wind height coil , ect
I have no experience with Sundown but I just can't stop thinking you are paying extra money for that logo. When I bought my NVX VCW15 (on sale for $162) sub I looked around and the SA15 was $100 more at $267! The EMF lowballer was about the same at $175. Both the EMF LB and the Sundown SA have a 2.5" coil and a double stack and are both rated at 750wrms and the NVX VCW has 3" coil and a larger triple stack magnet structure a smidge more xmax, lower FS and is rated at 1000wrms, now yes I agree that 750w rating is conservative but the NVX's 1000w rating is also underated. That thing can take a whopping and cap feels cool still. There is no way anyone is going to convince me those 2 subs are superior to the VCW as far as good? Specs is specs.... is there coil that much better? is the cooling that better? Is soft parts that much more superior? I don't know but the NVX sounds awesome, and handle more than rated power so what performance aspect would make someone say I'm some glad I spent that extra $100 you really get what you pay for! also the So where is the extra money going? Just The dust cap logos that's expensive ink! Yes I know there's with some brands specs don't mean squat like coil size doesn't insure big power handling ect but with reputable brands like NVX specs do mean something and IMO I think you get more sub for the same money and or more sub for less money...don't get me wrong I think sundown and EMF make awsome and insane products that kick ass and yes I'm comparing NVXs top sub to SD & EMFs entry level performance subs but I still think your spending alot extra for that logo. I can already feel the heat from Jacob fullers army of Sundown fanboys!
I would love to see a Soundstream Tarantula T5 and there Reference line specifically there reference 10 because it looks pretty stout for a budget sub. With some way to anchor them down I'd think dense foam yoga blocks be used to lower box volume for different requirements. If that worked and with a couple diy reducer rings you could test 8 &10s. I love seeing bunch of little 6/6.5" subs thumping away they look so cool
On my daily drive I have a sundown x15 its rated for 1500w rms I'm pushing a true clean 3000w daily for a hour + at a time and it never even. Gets hot I dont know what kinda wizards sundown hired to sprinkle magic powder but these subs are built so welll
These subs are priced perfectly. I have two of them in a Skar Audio EVL12 ported box and they absolutely slam! I had Kicker CVRs before I got them. The CVRs are no match! Sundown underrated the heck out of these subs. I have them wired in parallel down to one ohm and they are taking 700 rms watts a piece! They can take more power than that. My bestfriend has 800 rms watts on each of his.
How much better are they than the cvrs? I got one cvr in a ported box and I giving it 500 watts, but I feel like the really low bass (like 30 hz and less) sounds muddy and weak to me. Im thinking of switching to the sundown E-12 or 2 lcs 12s
@@nickvanelzen4630 as an SA series owner, I’d recommend the E series if you can afford it. The more power you can push the better, I have a single SA12 Classic on a CT Sounds CT2000.1D amp being fed 2k RMS in a 3.4 cubic foot box. Absolute monsters, the newest E series design took heavily from the design of the last generation of SA series subs. Meaning they’re better for the same price as before, just $50 more than the LCS.
You did the k6 at 600rms which is 75$ , do the k6 at 300rms , or do the LCS at 600rms seeing how everyone claims it's better and "takes double rated" .
Bro sundown subs can take x2 to x4 the RMS if its clean power, MY single NSV4 18" is on a single SALT 6 amp that puts out up to 8000-9000 watts at 1ohm. My sub takes it like a champ all day long. In a 7.2c box tuned to 28hz. I do love my set up but i wish i would have bought more cone area for the money, like two zv5 15" for around 800 each instead of 1 NSV4 for 1300, would have been a bit more money but the cone area would have been better i think. A cool video i think would be cone area vs power, like see if doubling the power gets more RMS vs doubling the cone area. Or say 1000 dollars of cheap subs like 10 of these, vs a single 1000 dollar sub on the same power, wonder which would get high scores lol.
Ive been wondering that last half of your comment for a long time. I had 16 sa10v1s on 2 ns1v2s and only pulled a 154.4. I was tuned to 28 and it was the only time I metered it. It was almost the cone area of 5 18s but with more motorforce.
sundown paper cone for music quality and a broad frequency range and the stiff "none flimsy" Audio Pipe cone /sub for bass in the lower frequency range period
You know alot of batteries. I need some advice. What's better: Viper VP-2400 or the Kinetic 2400? The viper is $209 and the other is $269. I would like to save $60 if there's not much difference.
The Kinetic is definitely a tried amp true battery. I don’t have any experience with the Viper so I really can’t say but I’d look around for reviews and see how it has worked for others
What do you think about launching distinct 18 inches l want to put it at home but l have doubts with its performance in a ventilated room , l want you to give me your opinion since you have good experience in ths subwoofer, l have seen a video tullo of the brand launch, a sub 12" and l end up with a knife in the cone , haha,, ? Will the 18" give me a good sound in ventilated room?
alot of people say they severely underrate their subs in their higher end subs yes but honest they just accurately rate them to take the power on the box continuously without failure imo
Good vid. Can you test the cheapest Skar ? They are tuff suckers. I'm running 1100 watts to a 50 dollar 10 inch with push terminals, the 12 inch isn't much more.
Thanks I’m not trying to beat up the block but going from a little car to suv my 10” punch seems like it’s struggling to fill the space and not hitting certain frequencies like it used to. It’s still plenty loud so I am looking at something to work with my 400w amp and not get into electrical upgrades
So I have 2 of these running in parallel with a 2600w kicker amp and it’s still not enough power to run both. Had to buy another amp to run to each sub. Sounds amazing.
So is this sub box good then ? I’m looking into one of the skar 15 subwoofer boxes for my sundown audio e15. It requires similar box specs but the port is too small, not sure if i should 🙄
How's the sound quality of this sub compared to the nvx you used to have Parker? Also you should test Dayton audio HO sub 12 from parts express in this box.
NVX VCW Smashes this thing BY FAR lol ! not even in the same game ! i have video of the 12'' taking a sundown saz2500 free air full tilt for over 7 mins and still not dead ! maybe ill toss one in my subwoofer matchup im doing with lcs , k6 , k9 , , boss audio , dark audio nko , pioneer and jbl
Dude I just HAVE to know... when you are having a conversation with someone in person do you talk to them like you do in your videos?? Lol another great video bud.
This don’t surprise me I have 4 sa 10s on a 4K been beating the shit out of them the other day I had to take one out because I dropped something in the box checked out the coils and leads and there was no burns or blacks or damage what so ever I saw supprised
parker great vid bro but what is your fascination with aluminum wound coils? you do know copper is a far superior material to run a current through don't you? to run the same amount of current through a cca coil the wire winding would have to be over six time the diameter of the copper wire. cca is garbage bro. electronics anywys that's why you always go for single crystal oxygen free copper in your home audio for the best quality possible. or am i missing something and i get the aliminium has good heat dissipation but if you don't have to heat up your wire as much due to a thinner dia then you wouldn't need the aluminum and it's heat dissipating properties in the first place no? I dunno let me know what the crack is Parker plz or anyone.. thanks
I can’t find a stereo shop to help set my gain on my Kicker 1200.1 amp going to a Kicker 12inch L7 Q Class 1200-1500. WHATS the best way for me to set the gain as perfect as possible? Not just the ear tune either . Like just turn it all the way up then add bass slowly blah I need a more accurate gain setting
A A RON I did mine based on sonic’s video. Multiply speaker rms by ohms then find the square root. That’s the ac voltage at the amp’s speaker terminals for a 40hz test tone with the volume up. Example 450 rms x 2 ohms is 900. Square root of that is 30v
Greg Blau yeah so much to still learn. Learning quickly but it’s hard finding someone that can set the gain electronically. I have it set right now but I don’t think it’s at it’s full potential. I need to get a new volt meter. I have a 4ohm L7 Qclass ABD wired parallel and at least at 2ohms. Also I have a sedan and not a suv but I have one of my back seats down cause it rosins better (unfortunately) sounds good still with it up but I like to hear it. Basically what I’m asking, would it be better to face my speaker at me while I’m driving or the speaker still facing the trunk lid? Idk what would be better and can’t just turn it without stretching wires. Do you know by chance? Also going to get a new meter today and try what you told me. Thanks so much
Should sound better facing back but you never know. Exo and crutchfield have tested it iirc crutchfield got like 10db and that’s supposedly double volume
Greg Blau so turn my box to where the speaker and vent are facing my back seats? It’s facing the trunk lid like normal right now but if it sounds better turned towards the inside of the cabin then I’m turning it towards the cabin inside
Should be louder how it is but I can’t say for sure. Still learning as I go. I bet you have plenty of gain left though. When I first adjusted it with a meter I calculated 22 volts and I only had the amp at 12
Just a suggestion, but you should remove those other subs from the vehicle when testing. The 2 non-playing subs (and the ported box) will resonate and affect what you hear, as well as affect what the meter reads. Just sayin'....
I snagged 2 discontinued 15” xplods from a guy trying to sell them at the pawn shop. Pawn shop offered $20 and he really needed the cash and was gonna take it so I offered $30 for the pair just to beat the hell out of them and they honestly took everything I could throw at them. $30 on woofers $10 for sealed used box that I cut down to specs and wood glue. Definitely didn’t stand up to my single treo ssp 15 but for less than $50 i was happy, i put them in my friends truck and hes more than happy!
I have two u12s on an NS1v2 at .5 and take it just fine. They don't like below 30hz for long. Theyre in a 4 cube net tuned to 29. Does anyone know what id gain by shrinking to 3.25ish and tune closer to peak(38-41)? Ice heard to tune 5-10hz below tuning. Why is that?
Yeah you are paying for the name but not no where near as much as people say. If you people listen to Jacob he explained why his subs are more expensive and it has nothing to do with the brand so I wish people would not say that because they wrong.
Ya sundown don’t need help getting people to buy there stuff. AP is still fairly new on the scene but have proved there a good company with good products. Rockville needs to step up there game or rate there products in a more honest way. And BOSS audio well .... I guess there must needs to be true crap to compare decent to good stuff to :) the flea market needs some kind of inventory:)
audiopipe has been around 1972 lol my rockville destroyers clamp over rated power daily . 2600rms ''wolfram w3000.1 per sub'' boss audio does more in sales in a year than sundown does in 5 . boss audio also was the first to break 160db 10 years before sundown was a company .
