Just trash those old fuse panels. I have tried to fix them with solder, might work for a bit then the solder breaks. Dissimilar metals. The problem is between the rivets and the tabs. One I tried to fix was off a old boat so I drilled out the rivets cleaned it all up. Put it back with screws. In a couple of years it was intermittent. Remember the meter is only putting a tiny current through the joint, with the actual current it might go open again.
I love that you can laugh that off after a couple of seconds of silent fuming.... it happens to us all, and how you recover from a mistake is what counts!
She's sounding sweeter and sweeter. I hope the manifold repair in in the next one and maybe a drive. Wouldn't mind getting my hands on that beautiful old girl.
Problem with solder in automotive wiring is it'll eventually crack with all the vibration, so those fuse panels, either drill out those rivets & replace them after cleaning the terminals, or scrap 'em and fit some new (decent) ones, for longevity and to avoid any bad joints causing hotspots and potential for unintended flames... :P
Well buddy, you gone and done it again !! Being a Gen X, ive had to sit here and try to answer questions from 4 14-16 year olds im not qualified to answer, like "Dad, whats the difference between TIG, MIG, Soldering and Braising ?" Still, its makes me smile seeing these guys glued to learning important stuff from the likes of your good self and Vice Grip Garage. Your giving hope to the next generation so hats off to ya. Oh, I dont even try to answer - its a "Go look on Google dummy" rsponse :)
Took me back about 70 years. Sounded just like my neighbors car. I remember hearing that idling sound, although I could not see the source, my father said it was a Model A. Now I know why he lusted after a car that debuted when he was 16. Narragansett Bay
I had one of those hammers 50 years ago. It was in my tool box stolen out of my shed. On the lookout, could it be? If it is, it’s been put to good use.
You need to get yourself a workshop Jack Russel to deal with mice and rats ! Thanks for the upload. My Dad can tell some stories about these old Fords !
Mustie is a very patient guy, I can relate. But, when it comes to car repair, I can only take so much. You sir just keep going, and going. I salute you.
It’s all in his attitude. He knows he will figure stuff out so there’s less stress. Call if confidence or what have you….it’s addicting to watch that’s for sure
The slower you go the faster you get it done. Haste makes waste. You definitely have to be able to detach when you reach your limits. Going harder is usually not the solution. When Darren broke off the throttle lever that was a perfect example of going too far. He tried his luck and came away a loser. Don't rely on luck. If he'd started out heating and hitting it he'd have gotten it without breaking the lever off. It's what he ended up doing anyways.
@@1pcfred When we need to see the way a real pro would handle anything, we all know to go straight to your channel. You have tons of videos that show the right way to do everything. But seriously. Imagine the need to be heard, that you felt this was a comment that needed leaving.
My Mother told me Her Dad would sing a Song. You Will Never Get To Heaven in a Old Ford Car, Cause The Darn Old Thing Won't Drive That Far. Funny, I Qualified as a Ford Mechanic. Still trying to Prove Granddad Wrong. Lol.
Hi mustie, you are a remarkable knowlegeble technician, remain me at my working days where I was on troubleshooting day and day out, now I am an old man and have the blessings to seat down and enjoy each and everyone of your outstanding and impressive videos, my most expensive thanks for sharing them with us, congratulations mustier, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres
Just a note for the viewers that are starting their mechanical education or just getting into it: Most early gasoline engines had updraft carburetors (carbs that sucked air in below the intake) because floats and needle and seat development was kind of iffy at the time . In the event you overflowed your float bowl it would just run out of the carb instead of down the intake that would in turn hydrolock your motor with a cylinder full of gasoline or dilute you engine oil by running past the piston rings. Also for this reason most early cars had a gasoline shut off valve to cut the fuel off at the tank. In the case of Model T and A fords it was under the dash as the gas tank was located in the cowl under the windshield.
Hi mustie, my most expensive thanks for taking your precious time to share this invaluable time and information with us, I was born and raised in the mechanical industry, my productive years I spent them in the diesel industry due to better pay mainly I did troubleshooting now I am 71 years old, frecuently I ams searching the internet for videos like yours, to enhance my knowledge, that entertain me and keep me more skillful, allow me to express my gratitude for your outstanding and impressive videos, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres. Should I leave near by you I would request permission to visit your shop but The distance is near three thousand miles away from your location, most kind of you gentleman.
Before you started tearing the carb down,you should have soaked it and all the parts for a couple of days in a good carburetor cleaner. That way, you wouldn’t have injured a good part. DJ
@Dennis Johnson I've actually had pretty good luck soaking them in a coffee can in gasoline to rehydrate everything and soften up varnish with float bowl off.. (keep a lid on it to contain fumes)
That old exhaust has me laughing. We have this old airplane we used for crop dusting before the bank let us get new tractors. Several years ago while making adjustments, one of the exhaust ports set my shirt tail on fire and I got into the cockpit and I was on fire until my wife hit me with the fire extinguisher ... ha ha ha My wife wanted to frame the shirt and though it is funny, I am still embarrassed by the incident. Keep an eye out though, sometimes you just can't see the flames, no telling what might happen, but its good to have a sense of humor . Thanks for the video !
A couple of other comments: you don't need to fill the radiator up to the neck. Just enough coollant to cover the core. If you can see water when you look down the neck, it's probably too full. Next, after you get the engine started, use the timing lever on the left side of the steering wheel to advance about half way. That will really smooth out the engine idle.
Head lights is on the center of the steering column! Also thru the choke on the right side of the dash to the left a quarter of a turn to correct the idle!
I "rebuilt" a copper solenoid contact switch on a Caravan starter using a 1/2" copper fitting. Flattened the copper pipe fitting, rounded it off, drilled a hole through it, then hammered it onto the grooved fitting shaft. Wasted 3 hours of my time, when I could have bought a rebuilt starter/solenoid for $60 at the time. But, I just wanted to fix it myself.
As a carb builder for 30-plus yrs. Very nice fix to that carb but I was yelling at the screen it's brass it's gonna snap. That's the good thing about brass if you can get it hot enough to accept new brass it will stick. Very cool video.
I think the hot enough rule applies to all metal really. Though with some metals you do have to be careful when they come up to temperature because they tend to burn in an oxygen environment.
Every now and then things go side ways. I love that you don't lose your cool. Never give in, never give up. Keep on fixing. That's what you do my friend.
Mustie1 - When you started to repair the butterfly shaft by buliding up weld, I was surprised you didn't first try drilling a short length hole in the shaft and brazing or welding in some rod or a bolt - then add a thin nut to extend the shaft and weld back on the linkage arm.
... I was thinking to gas braze it and use a Dremel tool. You can always chuck that in a drill press and run some emery cloth or a file to round it out again.
That's how I'd have approached it myself. I'd have drilled and tapped it for a small screw thread then put a screw in there maybe a 6-32 or something. But I have a milling machine and V blocks. Probably could have fixed it like that and some JB Weld. Personally I'd have taken the care to not break the part in the first place. I gave up on reefing on stuff a long time ago. I'd have gone right to heat and percussion. Tappy, tap, tap.
@@daleburrell6273 just tap it. Percussion works because oxides are brittle. The taps break the crud up. The trick is to break the crud without breaking the sound material. I have managed to free up some incredibly seized items over the years. Stuff that I thought there wasn't a chance.
When I was a kid, I thought these engines "sounded primitive." Now they're sweet music to my ears. Funny what a little time will do for your perspective.
When you get to it, Take that filter can back at the tank out. Never put a "filter" on the gravity or suction side. Use a mesh screen/strainer. The fine (paper usually) modern filters are for pressure feed. You can get a restriction or a vapor lock, with a "filter" on the suction side.
it probably still has a brass filter inside the tank but the crud level got too bad. If you notice, there's a bottom plug on that tank fitting to drain water / crap in the t-fitting.
@@1pcfred Yea I see some modern looking pump thing. on the frame rail, then the 'filter' needs to be after that. Sucking through a filter will cause the filter to act as a nucleation point. AKA Mentos and Coke. Can you say vapor lock boys and girls?
Mustie, fixing that carburetor shaft is the exact reason I watch your channel. Me when it broke I would have hurled it across the garage and contacted Paul Shinn for a replacement. 24:23
New Hampshire isn't considered Yankee they live free or die trying. not God save king Henry. Like Rhode Island or other loyalists states, Connecticut etc
This is where you junk the glass fuse block and leave it there just for looks, then rewire with a modern fuse block hidden under the dash. Also, on the horn there should be an adjustment screw that holds a detent ball bearing in place. The ball may need to be oiled and then the screw adjusted to add a little pressure to the ball.
That fuse box is not original. I don't know if the car had fuses. Glass fuses like that are modernish though. Certainly decades later than that car was produced.
@@firesurfer that truck could be a fun toy for the right person. That's about it. Good for small town parades. I wouldn't bring it to a car show though. It wouldn't hold up under close scrutiny.
1:01:00. Mustie you must place the glasfuse in the right place, the top one was a step down. I wonder how long it took you before you realised 😉😊 Cheer`s from Sweden 😃
That's getting better and better soon you will be able to give it back to the owner excellent video awesome content thank you for bringing us along with you six stars brother
Thanks again Mustie for taking the time and effort to put out these videos, always a joy to watch, those fuse blocks would really try my patience, but you just keep persevering, good for you 👍🙂
I used a flexible plumbing drain snake to get the nests out of the tailpipe of my dads plow truck. It worked pretty well. At least it would dig out enough that the rest would blow out when my brother revved it up. Note: Don't stand behind the pipe. Only took one time when I was 15 to learn that one!
When I do stuff like that, there's a phrase I say to myself. When I watched you shear that throttle shaft, I said it aloud, "Way to go, Mongo!". Great project! Thanks, Mongo.
Great and fun video to watch! How I love the sound of an ancient 4-stroke engine running at ultra-low idle. Sounds almost like an an equally ancient hit & miss engine -- which, during a power outage or government inflicted brownout, could run a household generator all day and all night.
About that shaft ... I was thinking of drilling a hole in it first (using a lathe)... .. then, using a brass screw, put it together. Then braze the thing (as I didn't know how it was put together.) Nice job you did!
soldering is an art. tthe main thing to remember is clean both surfaces. if you remove the screws on the bus bar, there will be corrosion under the bus bar. on the other side, you have aluminum rivets, which will be corroded. the fuse blocks will work if you remove the bad rivets amd replace them with either brass screws or copper rivets. Clean -wire brush- the bus bars and/or fuse holders to restore connections.
In addition, I would suggest removing the bus bar prior to soldering. It is sinking all the heat away. Soak the fuse box in something like vinegar to get rid of the corrosion prior to soldering.
Been Playing this week with a Bronze cast Impeller at Work, you can use either AC or DC on Brass using TIG, Preheat helps with adhesion and then allowing it to cool slowly in some form of thermal wrap helps to prevent cracking. Soon I have to try and repair the Spigot Diameter of two Bronze Boat Rudders using SIF MIG and Spiralwelding on a Lathe. You should see the crazy Jig we made to hold it in the Lathe Chuck.
Heat dude heat!!!! Mild heat! Shudda baked it gradually first then super cooled it then oiled it.. god damn I felt that, but wow you are a patient man, I wudda probably ended up burning the house down from anger after that snapped on me.
Great job on the Carbabuster. Man. Darren I believe in you, but geez, you had me going. This is why Sundays are great with your videos. The element of risk, and going where Darren has not gone before. Nice work kind sir.
Very entertaining. Almost as good as "Dr House" but without the fancy words and the limp. That carb repair, for me, was the highlight of the show. Bravo maestro.....Looking forward to the next one.
