You don’t even have to make that tool to set the injector timing. You can measure that 64MM dimension accurately with a vernier caliper. That little piece that sticks out of the end of a vernier caliper is for depth measurements and will measure injector height/timing accurately... you can use a long arm inside diameter caliper(about $35) to synchronize #2-#6 injector racks to #1 and set max fuel delivery... if I did it every day I would want the special tools, but if you understand how it works and what to measure/compare there is definitely more than one way to skin(tune) a cat...
Aaron Pierre sorry, I missed your comment. You use a vernier caliper to set injector height/timing(injector plunger position relative to camshaft)... you need to use a dial indicator to sync the individual injector racks(fuel delivery rate) to each other. Cat makes special tools for this as you need to reach down inside the valve cover to reach the ends of the injector rods/racks. to do it without the special tools, you need to remove the intake plenum . This will expose the top deck of the cylinder head and allow you to reach the end of each injectors fuel rack/rod with off the shelf dial indicators and no special adapters...
Mark Hussey it came loose? #1’s lever arm should be permanently affixed to the main actuator rod that runs the length of the head? You would have to pull that assembly, re-affix that lever arm to the rod, then re-install. Then reset baseline/max fuel position for the actuator rod measuring on #1 injectors rack rod, then sync #2-#6 to match #1...
I can't even find the tooling so this may just be a lifesaver. I'm pretty sure I have some leaking o-rings and need to replace them because it wont start without starting fluid but it runs great, no blow by etc... Does this sound right to you? Thanks for the video.
@@battleaxefabandmachine Do you have to re-sync the rack if you pull and injector? It seems to me the rack would stay synced as long as you set the proper hight of the injector unless you replaced or put it into a different cylinder.
@@battleaxefabandmachine I think you are supposed to use all those special cat tools too. LOL. I appreciate it. I'll get the dial gauge and calipers out and put them to use then. I'm going to build the adapter for the dial indicator so I don't have to pull the intake. Oh boy how fun... Thanks!
Sasang Casino they are a little more difficult, but if you remove the upper plenum(structure that sets on top of the head) you will expose the top of the cylinder head. Once that is done you can easily place either a clamped or magnetic based dial indicator to measure the end of each individual injectors fuel rack so yo can synchronize 2-6 to #1 and set #1 to the max/full fuel position. The only advantage the cat tools really get you is you don’t have to remove that upper assembly... if I were doing it for a living, I would have the tools, but a person doing their own it is not that much additional work for a very infrequent maintenance procedure...
@@medboubou1558 oil mixing in fuel? Thats kinda weird. The secondary fuel filter is combined with the crankcase breather. If it was cracked, it might allow fuel into the case. If the head was cracked to a oil gallery you might get mixing. Of course a dribbling injector might put enough fuel into a cylinder to leak past the rings, and of course excessive idling can cause lube oil dilution...
@@pietervos2553 nothing special that I am aware of. I would warm it in short runs till you reach full operating temp, then start loading the engine. I would avoid full load and max RPM until you have driven it a little while(200-300KM) then change the oil...
