Here we look at some of the pros and cons to running 35” tires on a Tundra. Hopefully this answers any questions you may have. Please like, share, and subscribe. Thank you Strikeforce Energy discount code: AFLANDY4333
I had a set of Nitto Terra Grapplers and always had a “shimmy” around 55mph and finally got rid of them for a set of Pro Comps MTZ. 2011 Tundra with a 6” lift. Like your videos very informational
terry218e Thank you, I appreciate it. This is the first set of Terra Grapplers that I have owned. I’m pretty satisfied with them. That doesn’t mean the next set won’t disappoint though.
What size rims are you running? I've got the 20 inch Fuel Hostage which shortens the sidewall making it stiffer and have no strange wear on my Nitto Terra Grappler MT's. I've got the Zone5 lift and had to do some trimming on the bumper. I also regeared with 4.88's so I could use sixth gear again. It helped slightly with the mpg but I mainly did it to get that pep back that was lost with the 35's. Installed the hypertech speedo after realizing the 35's changed my speedo by around four miles an hour.
You should have talked about offset on the wheels some, that plays a big part into clearance of a bigger tire. Also, I believe a good set of upper arms should be around $500. Installation probably another 2.
Will 35's rub on a 2019 tundra with a 6-inch procomp lift? Running stock bumpers and probally going to a 18x9 or 18x10 rim? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Just rather not BOdy mount chop if I dont have to
I am on my fifth Tundra. My current one is a 4 X 4 2019 mega cab. This truck came with michelin all terrain tires and I replaced @50K miles and they still had tread. All my other Tundras came with BFG GoodWrich TA'S and wore out at 35K. Big difference in price and longevity. Yesterday I raced a Fox body Mustang that was pretty well tuned. He got the hit on me but I was catching up before I hit the speed limiter. I need to call DAP tuninging for a remote tune. Been there done that and it was a completely different truck!
I had the same problem so I added a insulated cold air intake full borla exhaust and the computer upgrade where they just plugged it in made some changes and unplugged it. I run a 35x11.50r18 and I get 16 mpg in the city, 4:10 gears. (285x75r18) 9 inch wide wheels minus 12 offset and no rubbing.
I got 35"×12.5"×17". Custom BMC, cut, plate welded, grind cleaned, painted. Front bumper spacer .5" clearance and rolled the front inner fender with heat gun (no cutting inner fender)... no rubbing at all at full articulation.
Im picking my 2010 double cab long box with 35x12.50x20 rims and tires and I expected to get less mileage im already looking for factory rims that I can throw a set of road tires on so I dont burn up a set of 1200 dollar tires driving back n forth to work everyday n keep the bigger tires for when i go in the woods
I just put 275/65r20's KO2's on my 2007 Tundra. That's roughly a 34" tire. 2.25" bilstein shock lift in the front to level. No rubbing at all. I could probably go a size bigger but it looks and rides perfect. I don't have a front skid plate.
I have a 2021 Toyota Tundra Trd Pro with the Westcott Designs Fox Trd Pro lift kit. TRD pro wheels and Spidertrax 1.25 spacers. 35x12.50R18 Nitto Ridge grappler tires . I had a little rubbing in the front of the wheel well bumper area. I installed a set of Coachbuilder bumper spacers and no rub at all now.
Have you decided to regear that would help improve gas mileage. I'm actually running 37's 22x12 on a 8 inch Ready Lift and have terrible gas mileage so by upon much research I'm upgrading gears to 5.29 and bring me back to around 14mpg since I'm running huge wheels and tires.
I have a 2017 TRD PRO with a one inch lift and am running 35/12.50-18 mud terrains on the stock rims the only thing I did was removed the front mud flaps and instead of cutting out the front inner fender well I used a heat gun got the plastic hot and just reformed it and on the rear of the front tire shaved the cab mounts and also put on 1.25 inch wheel spacers and every thing works great
Thank you so much for the video! Someone did mention bumps, which is what I was thinking. There is a turn on my husband’s work commute that is very bumpy. We have the off road package on a 2019 Tundra Limited. Wouldn’t the tire bounce up and hit that close edge/bracket? And when you said “factory”, I’m guessing that’s the stock lift for a Tundra? We LOVE the truck btw. Thanks again!
Brandi Smith Thank you. I actually have a 3-2 Ready lift on my truck. Which is basically a 3 inch body lift. That’s the only way 35’s will fit. I’ve hat had any rubbing issues with mine.
I bought 2019 Tundra Crewmax Limited in March with stock suspension,wheels and tires 20X8 with 275/55R/20. I want to get new wheels and tires, either BFG KO2’s or Nitto Ridge Grapplers. I want to get the look of a Lift without jeopardizing ride quality. I don’t really off-road to need a Lift Kit. I was considering a Level Kit instead. I also don’t want to trim any wheel wells or fenders. There’s a lot of math involved to ensure fitment.
Gear, would have been great to hear you talk and once in a while have a wider look of your tires, the truck, like from 10 feet away and see the tires. Thanks for your valuable info.
Wow!! That is close in the front. I’m surprised it doesn’t rub on heavy bumps in the road. Looking forward to your speed test...I’m guessing you’re 3-4mph off at 65 and above🤔
You could do a body mount chop (BMC) that would buy a little more room and move away from the all terrain tires. I guess it all depends how you use the truck, but the 35s really look good. Thanks for sharing you experience.
hornshwangler Thank you. I have thought about that. If I did that I would want to weld a piece of the chopped off part. The place that does it here doesn’t do that so I’ve been a little iffy on it.
@@gearrunner Yep, that's the way to do it. There's a channel, 88ROTORS, that specializes in BMCs and does a really fine job. You can see some of their work by searching for BMC on their channel.
I had the Nitto TerraGrapplers on my 94 Ford F-250 and got over 75000 miles on them. We're still on the truck after my wife wrecked my truck and crunched the bumper into the tire... but never went flat.
I run 35/12.5/R17 (17" wheels). I have a suspension lift (not level or bracket, but a pure suspension lift) of 3 inches front and 1 inch rear. There was some trimming and a body mount chop. I still have my front fender molding.
I've got a 2019 Tundra with no lift/leveling kit and am considering the KO2's in a 275 65R 20 these are 34" tires. Am I safe in assuming they would not rub since your 35's don't? Thanks.
You will find that the large tires do impact your speedometer reading. But . . . it will show you that your mileage is actually better than you think it is. The large tires go maybe 3% farther than the stock tires do per revolution. So your mpg is likely .5 mpg better than you think.
If I worked for Toyota. I would revolutionize the truck industry. It's my firm belief that ALL pickups should be able to fit 35×12.5 tires from the factory and have robust suspension and steering components to handle them if the truck is 4x4. Also I would make sure the frame and wheel well accommodate 35's without rubbing or needing to be trimmed. I would also develope a factory lift kit and fender flare kit for any one that wants a clean install as well as a great fit with everything installed. I believe life is about customization. It's too short to stay stock. 😉 One thing to note. Large tires do affect your speedometer. If you put on small tires. You will be traveling up to ten miles an hour slower than other traffic with the difference increasing as you go faster. The small tires run up your odometer like crazy which will devalue your truck. With larger tires you will be covering more ground with fewer rotations. So to get real MPG you need to adjust or swap out the sensor for your speedometer to match the new tire size. Changing your gearing will help recover the acceleration lost as well as help you get closer to your original MPG. I ran 35's on my K2500. It has 4:10 semi floating rear as well as the plow package so the front A arms are cast instead of stamped. I averaged 15-18 mpg depending on conditions or towing even with 35's. My truck has the 5.7 vortec so power was never an issue either. But 35's taught me to stay on top of alignments, beef up all end links and tie rods, upgrade or install a steering stabilizer. Make sure you keep an eye on tire pressure. If you run BF Goodrich rotate, balance, and get alignments more often. Nittos and Toyos are more forgiving and in my experience need less TLC to get the same mileage. Toyota Tundra rear ends have issues so changing the rear differential fluid more often. (Something many people never change), might help you get a lot more miles trouble free out of your Tundra.
@@floridalife7564 You can but depending on Gear ratio and the vehicle. Your acceleration will take a bit of a hit. The speedometer might be off too and may need you to make adjustments. You will be traveling faster than what you see on the dash.
Look up front bumper shims for the tundra, I still run my inner front bumper covers on 35" 12.5 20 with a 3/2 lift nitto mud terrain just had to trim the inside corner of the bumper and mod the liner fits nice looks factory.
If you take off the upper factory air box, you will see it has a carbon screen filter. Take a soldering iron and melt off the plastic welded rivets. This will give you 1 mpg improvement with a high flow filter (K&N, etc.) The induction sound and throttle response is noticeable.
Just had 5.29 Nitro Gears installed on my 2019 Tundra. It has a 2.5” lift and running 35” tires. Was very tired of feeling like I was constantly hauling around a trailer because of the weight & size of the tires. I almost went back to stock size but ended up having the gears installed and so glad I did. Now it feels like it did the day I bought. Holds 6th gear like it never did before. I can tell by the exhaust note that the engine isn’t struggling like it did before and always changing gears. If you plan on keeping your tundra and you’re running larger tires, do yourself a favor and go for it. Almost like getting a new truck all over again, way more fun to drive.
The biggest tire you can run without a lift and stock wheels is 285/65/18 (stock tire is 275/65/18) and it will still rub at full turn until you put a couple thousand miles on the tires.
You can fit 35 inch tires on a stock tundra with no lift, obviously trimming is required, if you have even just have a 3 inch leveling kit in the front and if you do not move the location of your alignment you’ll have to do the body mount chop, depending on your wheel backspacing and offset, but if you push your alignment forward towards the front bumper you do not have to touch the body mount with 35s but you will have to use a heat gun and push the inner fender in and mold it with more curve. you can even use zip ties to help hold it while it molds, hence why yours is removed. In some cases you’ll even trim the bottom part of the bumper closest to the front of the tire. now if you go 37‘s you’re definitely going to need to do the body mount chop.
60 psi? I run 45 on mine. Anything above that feels to harsh for me. To each to there own. My speedometer doesn’t change when I swap out my stocks for 35’s. Kinda weird because my 2012 was off.
Xavier Mandolorian. No I have not regeared. I did install magnaflow exhaust, coach builder bumper shims and a sprint booster which I think is the best mod so far!
Could be Camber wear or under inflated tires if the inside of the tire worn the same but if it has a suspension lift I'd check manufacturer of the lift kit to get the proper specification for alignment that's why I when for a body lift kit! Tim
Consider next set of tires 11.8 wide rather than 12.5 wide, 34 tall, 295-70-18 They'll wear better and give better traction in mud and or snow Give you little safety clearance too.
This may sound stupid, but that’s because it is, so I say light up the rear for a second to knock the glaze of road grime off, rotate tires, then do the same with the fronts on the rear, should help with the slick feeling, had a set of 10ply on a ranger and noticed the same thing and it worked enough for me
I have 35” trail grapplers on 18” wheels with a zero degree offset. 3.5” rough country lift kit. Had to trim body mount and front fenderwell a good amount. The uneven wear is due to the factory spec on the truck is a positive camber. Even with the upper control Arms replaced factory alignment keeps as close as possible to factory steering. I had to remount my tires to get more even wear out of them. Hope this helps
Would let's say you have mud tires on would you be able to off road without rubbing and what about your gears? How does the truck feel compared to 33s?
I never ran 33’s on this truck. I would def say that with the 35’s and only doing a 3.5” lift that they will def rub while off roading. They sometimes rub if i make a sharp turn. 33’s would prob be better. It also has to do with the offset of the wheel. A negative offset will make the rubbing worse. When I put 1.5” spacers on i had to trim more of the body mounts.
@@erikhoreis9229 I see, so keeping the offset like zero offset is best when going to bigger tires. I run 33s with a negative 18 offset for the stance but I can see why negative offset can increase rubbing makes perfect sense.
@@erikhoreis9229 I have the 3.5 RC bolt on and I love it, I think it's a good balance of clearance and functionality plus its also bolt on/not permanent but the 6inch lift is tempting
Marco- I have the same RC kit. It’s great. My 35’s didn’t really rub until I spaced them out for the look and stance as well. With the 2” fender flares I installed, the tires stick out about 1.5” still. It looks wide and mean. Looks great.
The front tire, driver's side, is very close to one of the supports for the front bumper when the wheel is turned to the right. This is with the suspension in the neutral position. What happens when the suspension is compressed? It would seem that this support would hit the tire.
I got an alignment when I had a new set of tires installed, but they screwed up and chewed through front tires really quick, went to a different shop and it had way too much positive camber. I'm at 200,XXX miles on my 2016 tundra and only on my third set of tires.
@@vanlynchburg7123 had the original Michelin tires on, then some really cheap tires called trail climbers or something like that, and now have Westlake tires on, Wich have been great other than they are load e rated and ride like a log wagon.
I think a 295/70r18 is perfect for that size lift, but will require a body mount chop, depending on the offset of wheel. Also you should install an inline speedo calibrator running 35’s. I ran 295’s for 20k miles and ended up going back to a 33. Drives, brakes, accelerates, wheels (better articulation off-road) better mpg’s. Lots of benefits.
Thanks for the video, so a '3-2' lift means 3 inches front, 2 inches in back? What about height of the truck does it fit in a standard height garage which is about 84"? What about the offset? If you are negative offset, aren't you kicking gravel up against the paint? Your tires have 35 miles, it looks like it might have front rubbed when new with more tread?
Graph Guy My truck is right at 7’ tall. I’ve never noticed any rubbing and I’ve had the truck since about 14k miles. I did throw some gravel which is why I put on the fender flares.
@@gearrunner Thanks for the reply. 7' that means you can't fit it into a 'normal' garage. I think the 35" look best, but I have to park in the garage as it is a HOA requirement - that rules out 35's.
I'm running 33x12 Good Year Wrangler DuraTrac tires on my 2017 Tundra with a 3-1 Ready Lift. No idea of Hwy mpg because I drive 90% in town. City mpg is 13 mpg average. If that helps at all in your next size tire choice.
@@gearrunner I would go 12.5 wide as well. I have the factory flares. Only reason I went with the 12 wide is because I already had the tires from a previous truck and love the Duratracs. I hated the KO2s that were on my Tundra but didn't want to spend another $1200+ when the Duratracs still have a good 20k miles left in tread.
Rat gas Garage , that’s the thing. It has to be 0. I had a -18 with 13.5 and it rubbed only in reverse after trimming and Mount chop done. I just switched then for XD Misfit wheels 18’ with 35X12.5 Nitto 0 off set and it runs so much better!. No rub whatsoever.
I know this is an old video but had to put this out there. If they got you back to factory specs IMO that’s not good. Once you change the off, you change the geometry this changing the correct specs to be in. Any alignment Gurus out there to comment on that?
@@gearrunner I know. I was happy when they told me cause my set of KOs on my Taco got 80k before I got the KO2s. But then treaded it in for the Tundra. So I put KO2s on it.
In my experience I had before put some 35’s on other rigs . . . And believe me it became a headache with the differentials ratio back one and front one . . . That’s why I believe if anyone is about to set any tire bigger than factory specs be ready to change the differentials ratio before even the transmission pay the consequences. . .
You can change the tire size in the computers .. it affects the transmission shift point .. the low gearing in the tundras is not affected by 35s it’s already a 4.30. Transmission shift points is the issue but that reprogramming takes care of that
Nitto tires are heavy tires, I've had Trail Grapplers and Ridge Grapplers. I have a TRD Pro currently that has new BF Goodrich T/A stock size P275s Frankly they look like house shoes but I get 17 mpg, I just look bad doing it. I found a fix for this problem, I tented the front windows and the windshield. Now I don't look as bad. lol
Damn it, its a damn TRUCK. To get a good truck, you have to give some where and it is mpg. After all, Tundra is the most reliable truck going and that has been proven. My first good truck was a 84 Ford 3/4 truck and it got 14 mpg and I was very happy wiith that.
You can get some, if not all, of your MPGs back by regearing the axles. That will also get your power back and reduce the stress on your engine and tranny.
60 psi !!! That is a lot Gear. Most over sized tires typically run 35-42psi. Is that the recommended pressure from the tire manufacturer? I called Nitto when I had my Ridge Grapplers mounted and they recommend 38 in the front and 40 in the back.
Gear Runner I see, but that is very interesting. Mine are “F” rated, which for Nitto is a 12 ply tire. So I called Nitto back to double check where I should have my tire pressure at and based on their conversion chart from the OEM tires, I should be running my 35x12.50x20 Ridge Grapplers at 30-35psi.
Tundra Whisperer They told me that as well but I was seeing significant tire wear running that psi. I called the guy at the dealership that owned the truck before me and he laughed and said he did too. He said he ran 58-62 psi all the time. So I tried it. My tire wear almost went away except for the outside edge a little. Max psi is 66.
I know this is a year old. Do you remember what the camber was set at. Toyota sets the tundra up with way to much positive camber. I set mine to 0 maybe even -0
If your speedometer hasn't been re-calibrated for the larger tires, you're likely getting better MPG than you think you are. The odometer is also going to be off as bigger tires will have less revolutions per mile. If the stock tire was a 32" and your current tire is a 35, that's a difference of almost 10%. So when you check your mileage at the pump, you would need to multiply that number up by the percentage difference between the stock tire and your current larger tire, meaning you actually traveled more miles than your odometer says you did. Ex. Odometer reads 500 miles at the pump and you put in 25 gallons 500/25= 20mpg (500(35/32))/25= 21.875 mpg This is obviously just an example and there are other factors to consider here as well.
It depends on what you use your truck for, i use it my trd pro tundra for towing i do overlanding, but most of the time i tow and haul stuff alot of yard work, and im also a short dude so i mean does a lift and bigger tires look cool. Fuck yeah it does but from a practical standpoint for me its not worth it. I need to be able to get in and out of the truck bed and cab safely and quickly.
Gear Runner Cool, I can’t find a crewmax with a front bench. I need 6 seats for my wife and 4 kids. Oddly enough, they make a double cab with 6 but not the crewmax. Lost in translation I guess.
@@firstlast7099 bro I have 6 kids and special ordered a 2019 Crewmax with front bench. It’s TRD Off Road minus that $2500 upgrade that included the shifter on the floor.
You have to rotate your tires every 3,000-5,000 miles front to back and across and your tires will last for a long time as well as having less problems with vibration on steering wheel
The reason your tires will wear uneven is because you had a so many miles on them prior to addressing the issue, put new rubbers on and align it again.. youll notice better wear patterns. once a tire wears a certain way itll keep wearing that way your friendly tire wholesale salesman
Ya I mean once it starts it'll keep going unfortunately, because the pressure across the tire will still be even so technically they're wearing "straight"
Gear Runner 100% correct. If the tire starts a wear pattern then it’s impossible to stop it. I also sell tires for a living and many people have the same problem on lofted trucks because they wait so long to align them. I’d recommend an alignment once a year and every time you replace tires 👍🏼 I just bought my 2018 tundra this past week and was debating on 33s and 35s so your videos have been a huge help.
George Porreca I had mine aligned as soon as I got new tires. Still wears on the outer edge. If you get an alignment to “spec” should it be to “spec” after you’ve lifted and put after market rims and tires? Does “spec” mean factory conditions? shouldn’t The alignment change if you lift, rims, tires etc?
