This video is a good companion video to the Maker's Muse one because Angus just talks about hinges, he doesn't actually show you how to design one in the software. I'm trying to do this in Autodesk Inventor, so I hope the commands are similar. :) But watching this gave me a general idea of how to do it.
For a non-native english speaker the audio is sometimes pretty difficult to follow. I wonder how that kind of audio can be done in the first place (without using phones, skype or other very tight codecs with a poor line)
I am new using Fusion 360 and you explained how to make this hinge very well and I printed it later and it was perfect thanks for sharing your knowledge
Thank you so much for creating this video. i was wanting to make a custom hinge for my 3d printer enclosure because didn't like shop brought and couldn't find any that i like on thingiverse so ive used this guide to create my own custom one. once again thank you for share this. helped me out a lot
hi is there any other way to create allowance for the hinge to move at 10:22 ? i think its because new version of fusion hence i do not have the feature of going back to the first part
How can you learn when he's literally talking into a potato? I've been playing this video over and over for the past hour just trying to understand what he's saying because news alert not everyone can speak fucking potato like you can.
Would this actually print in place and work? I’m not sure it would... which orientation would you print it? It has overhangs greater than 45 degrees in all orientations from what I can see...
Hey Neddy, yes, this will print in place on most modern printers. Make sure to print without supports. You'd be surprised how well 3D printer can print in air without any supports.
@@devstefancho it is specific to your printer - how accurately it can print. The easiest way to find out is to print an accuracy gauge like the one from Makers Muse. Or just print and keep changing the tolerance until you get a a good print. You can expect it to be 0.2~0.5 depending on how good your printer is :)
Hello Kevin, I've to say i learned a lot from your Fusion360 tutorials, now i was wondering if you could do a tutorial with a stylish pillar. Will be highly appreciated
Nice tutorial. I'd like to show this to my high school students but there's an f-bomb in the first seconds. Ha ha. It's ok I love my coffee too. Cheers ps I might still show it
Good video Sir! Can you please also demonstrate how to 3D print all the components. If we 3D print them as it is, then we can't get to snap the two parts. How do you separate the shaft of the joint?
Hey Harsha, this is actually meant to be printed as a single piece. You have to figure out the tolerance of your 3D printer. Angus at Makers muse made a great tester, if you Google 3d printer tolerance gauge. Then you need to set the tolerance between the hinge and the body to the value you find. E.g. for my cetus printer it's 0.2mm, so if the hinge rod diameter is 5mm, then I'll make the rod holder diameter 5.2mm. You need to try a few prints and see what works best for you :)
Thanks for the excellent tutorial! I have to mention so many others have already complained. This nice tutorial is totally spoiled by the horrible audio! What a pity!
Most 3d printers can bridge short distances ( if tuned properly) without the plastic running down onto what below it. Remember this is layers, so after the last layer of the INSIDE of the bottom of the hole, after a few layers it will start to print the bar that goes through the hole. it will bridge the plastic from the two sides and start to build the middle piece. After teh middle piece is done, it will start to front the top on the hole and continue to the top to the model.
Very good question! And thanks for the replies! I still don't get it, however. Is the hinge supposed to be printed laying down, with the pin horizontal? In that case, wouldn't the pin fuse with the inside of the hole?
print laying down, and not it will not fuse, as long as you know what's the tolerance of your FDM printer. You can try this and see that when it starts to print the pin, the first layer of it is only a line or two, technically there's contact and fuse but due to the contact area is so small and thus weak, after printing you apply force to turn the hinge, the contact point breaks and you have a free moving 2 parts. My FDM printer's tolerance is 0.1-0.15 mm at this 5mm thick design.