This is amazing! I’ve been wanting a CSM for a long time, but the price of a metal one is a bit steep for my budget. My daughter’s family is getting a 3D printer soon so hopefully I can talk them into printing this for me.
Thank you for making this. I've printed the other one on thingiverse and don't like it at all. I am excited to try this one. Just need to get more filament first.
Thank you sooooo much! I will download this and forward this to my 14yr old to make me for Christmas! He might just be my favorite this year. (Just kidding)
Hi, thanks for the video and the files on thingiverse!!! I've looked at different Models, and this seems to be the most promising. I also appreciate a lot, that you've uploaded the Fusion 360 files! I may need to change minor things for metric bolts. I knit a lot by Hand. Lastly i researched about different knitting machines. I first tent to buy a used doublebed machine because of versatility(especially for ribbing). The price for ribbing-capable CSM is way to much for my linking. And i can't find any used machines. I think i'll start soon with printing this machine and see how it goes. I somehow didn't notice that you've also designed a ribber. That's amazing!!!
Awesome design! I have printed out all the parts but can't get the upthrow cams to work with the springs. I saw a video where the original auto knitter does not use springs. Did you find you still needed springs when you switched to metal upthrow cams.. and would you mind sharing where you bought your metal upthrow cams? Thank you!
Thanks Sheldon. Sorry you can't get the springs working. My only suggestion is to watch the assembly video over and over. I have not tried using the metal upthrow cams without the springs. May work, not sure. I made the metal cams by hand. Get some 5/32" x 1/4" unhardened steel. The trick is to bend it by hand first to get the exact curve you need (so it fits between cylinder and cam shell). Then use the printed plastic piece to mark out the shape. Cut and grind as needed. The other tricky part is to drill the hole perpendicular to the curve. Good luck! Steve
@@steveturner1447 Thanks for your reply! Clearly you are a talented engineer... I actually got the springs working with the plastic flippers for now, but you've inspired me to try my hand at making my own metal cams as well. Thank you for all your videos and designs - we are loving our new CSM!
I am printing the machine now. The design looks great and the parts are coming out dead on size. Do you print the cylinders without support? Top or bottom of the cylinder on the bed?
Watch the assembly videos. They show how to orient, etc. The cylinder is printed upside down. You can get away without supports, but may have to clean up the slots for the nuts. Good luck! Steve
Charlotte, I am using a home built 3D printer that is similar in size to a Prusa MK3. It can do about 8" x 8". The Prusa Mini+ can do 7" x 7", so it should be able to do everything except the main frame (which I made from wood). Good luck. Steve
@@steveturner1447 thanks for replying! I hope you post more CSM videos. Especially if you decide to do any modifications or additions like a ribber or heel spring.
I'm thinking about designing a ribber. It's definitely possible. There are at least two commercial 3D printed CSM available, which can be equipped with a ribber. After some research i've got a good understanding of how they work. I also know the basics of designing parts for 3D Printing. If my skills are good enough, i have to see... I will try printing this CSM soon. But when i have the time to try to design a ribber, i can't say...
What's the best way to keep up with the updates on your design? I am mid printing the v1 and then had a friend mentioned that v2 was already out. Do you have a facebook page or something? Also, are you considering parts for a ribber? Keep up the work and I appreciate the sharing of info. I'm new to knitting but not mechanical design.
Kevin, sorry I caught you in mid build. Keep in mind everything in v2 is optional. I think the best way to keep track is to select "watch" on the Thingiverse page. This should notify you whenever there is a change / addition. You will probably have to create an account. I am going to wait on a ribber for now (no promises). The PETG fumes from my printer have been affecting me lately, so I am going to stop printing for a while. At least until I can make an enclosure to vent outdoors. KEEP SAFE! Just because you can't smell it doesn't mean it's not there. Steve
@@steveturner1447 Also, there's a facebook group "circular sock machine 3d printed" that people have shown lots of interest on. I don't know if you are on facebook or not, but if you wanted to interact with folks, that would be another good way too and I'm sure the group would love to have you.
@@formula400me Thanks Kevin. Unfortunately, I don't have a Facebook account. The best way to contact me is with a Thingiverse comment. I get emails for each new comment. Would appreciate it if you posted this on your group. Steve
@@steveturner1447 so sorry to hear about the fumes affecting you! Any type of chemical smell or VOC gives me horrible headaches, so I feel for ya! My son is going to print your design for me, once he has an enclosed, vented workspace. I plan to “tip” you once I get a chance to try out the machine. I’m guessing Thingiverse is the best place to do that. Unless you have a PayPal account or something.
@@char2556 Thanks Charlotte. Make sure to double check if there are any updates on Thingiverse before you start. No need to tip me. I won't accept it. I did this as a Christmas present for my wife, not to make money. I enjoy working on the design. Steve
The bed probably needs to be at least 220mm x 220mm. If you don't have a 3D printer, you can find a service that will print them for you. There is a bit of a learning curve to get started with printing. Steve
Sylvia, you need a FDM style 3D printer. The bed size needs to be at least 220 x 220mm. If you don't have one, there are plenty of services available that will print the parts for you. There can be a learning curve with 3D printers. Steve