Thanks for pointing out the issue with the Sharge sponsor read, we're removing that short portion from this video and we'll reshoot it for future integrations.
remember kids, the difference between doing something stupid and doing something for science is that for science you take notes of your results (and shout "FOR SCIENCE!!" )
Empirical testing and knowledge is the backbone of the scientific method, afterall. There is no science behind the scientific method; it is just a structured/formalized format for messing about.
Honestly one of the coolest videos LTT has posted in a while. Please go down this rabbit hole. Im sure more will be uncovered of how viable this might actually be
There was a recent post in the r/SFFPC subreddit where a user 3D printed molds instead. Then used regular hardline tubing and used heat to fit them to the mold. Was able to achieve something super complex but without having to go resin and print the full tubes. It would work great for an SI when they have fixed configurations, they could just premake all the tube runs with ease.
Custom Scientific Glass Blowing has a similar process where they use regular tubing and stock glass to form custom pieces for laboratory and manufacturing use which has to be of a high standard for professional use to withstand heat and pressure tolerances fit for purpose. Or if you think of it as a prototyping route, make a model test fit... and then go completely over the top and follow an artistic route glass blower/sculpter to make the final product. The looks you could pull off like go full glass crazy straw, mad-scientist labratory glass kit, abstract art like a glass knot or klein bottle, or waterflow sculptures.
If you don't want to resin print you can fdm print casings to hold softline tubing, you just thread the tubing through the printed casing and you have your shaped tubing
Open loop splashing water on a tower heatsink would be hilarious. You'll probably have to top it off every week due to evaporation, but it'll double as a humidifier.
Every week? Eh, if the capacity is like common loops, several times a day to once every hour or so running an i9 with load on it. You'd have to demineralize the loop once or twice a day or your pump won't make a full day without seizing. Realistically you'd have to automate refill based on some level point or you'll cook stuff or have auto shutdown due to thermal alarm constantly. Think of it this way, would you want a 100w+ air humidifier?
I didn't realize there was a scanning spray that cleaned up with sublimation. I was only aware of ones that required manual cleaning. Going to have to give it a try.
I use it all the time in my job. It can take quite a while to fully sublimate, but even if you end up having to clean some of it off manually, it's still a lot less messy than dealing with the non-sublimating stuff.
I am kind of glad that they brought the intro back. Honestly I feel like linus should do more off script stuff. Makes the video more genuine and spontaneous
You absolutely can use FDM printing to produce watertight objects, I have done it myself using PETG and even in vase mode (where the wall is just a single continuous extrusion). You just need to have well tuned settings. PLA isn't good for watertight objects but most other materials are absolutely fine. Yes prints have layers but if your settings are right then the layers should be fused enough that there isn't any gap.
Man I have been 3d printing for nearly 6 years now and this is very cool tbh I’m very surprised no one thought of this before but man you guys did a great job keep up the brilliant work guys your all the best.
About time you guys tried this, I did this years back with my Anycubic Photon, only did a few difficult bends, but 4 yrs later they are still in daily use.
This is cool. If you have a small resin printer, you could conceivably print separate tube sections with each end having a male/female end that fit together and glued with resin. Each section can be oriented for best quality.
Resin toxicity varies dramatically depending on the formulation - and there are low toxicity formulations that are dramatically safer to use, but be aware that to achieve low toxicity tradeoffs in cost, mechanical (ex, tensile strength, glass transition temp), printable (viscosity, curing wavelengths, curing time, etc), optical (coloration, UV stabilization, opacity), or chemical (water sensitivity, ozone sensitivity, etc) must be made, so do your research on what you need to make the print actually function in its intended role and its compatibility with printers/curing lights/etc. I personally work with a very low toxicity PMMA/acrylic formulation for most of what I do personally, but while its got pretty decent mechanical and cost properties, it does make notable tradeoffs in chemical (high water sensitivity causing hydrolysis of the plastic before being fully cured), optical (low clarity on "transparent"/translucent prints), and printable (high viscosity) properties
Linus took off his metal challenge gauntlet, slapped Charles Harwood across the face, took his puppy, and stomped over his flower garden and said this isn’t a challenge. 😂😂😂
This is the kind of shit that I love ltt for. It’s crazy enough that I’d never try it first, but now that they’ve done it I’m kind of intrigued to try. Great video 👍
I'm not prone to seizures myself but I really appreciate the approach taken to the warning here because they give ample time in the warning and indicate when its okay to look again. No one ever indicated when its okay to look again which just makes no sense.
It did say it will be okay to resume watching when you hear a ding, and there was a ding. Though I would prefer a noise similar to the warring one but a different tone.
You can add a bit of adjustability into the tube as well by adding extra bends that allow some 'squishiness' in certain directions, depending on the rigidity of the plastic used.
The resin is usually very rigid. And putting more bends in it than necessary could lower your efficient fluid movement. You can't just heat bend it like the plastic or the glass.
You could also 3D print the reservoir, distribution block, and fittings with O-ring grooves. Plus you could vary the width of tubes, adapt between sizes without fittings, and make structural or decorative components that are part of the loop. Even FDM prints can be water tight, though it depends on material and print settings.
10:55 Actually, you could 3D print straight connectors to CA glue sections of pipes together into longer bits, and if you have a nice bezel on them and relatively thin wall thickness it would be barely visible.
quick tip for ppl, since im working with resin a lot and had the vid on in the back and didnt hear them saying that: resin takes in water. you can see how much over how long on the manufacturers sites. most that i use take in something like 5% water in 1-3 days. so they are not recommended to use in a loop or something that should hold water in general. they will deteriorate fast, and the loop will lose water fast from evaporation. some resins will lose their structural integrity after a hwile in water, and might be prone to warp or break under stress. resin also gets a bit pliable or atleast bendable after it gets soaked in hot water. so having it in a loop might cause the whole thing to distort after a while due to temps and exposure to water.
12:36 - 12:39 "100,000mAh battery capacity" Hey Alex, you've got some info the printer doesn't have? Cause it printed 10,000mAh on the powerbank (as shown at 12:44)...
This opens a lot of opportunities! Why even have tubes, when you can have any shape? Why not build in additional little coolers at places where you have additional space? Why not build in LED and go crazy on the material, to create something really funky? You could really build individual custom PC and you could try out cooling solutions that have not been done before.
This is one of the only times I was ahead of the game with one of your sponsors. We use Acronis for a number of our IT needs and it has definitely made my job a crap ton easier. It's also super affordable compared to anything close to a competitor.
Oh it will. I thought about doing this almost 6 years ago. Turns out that resin prints dissolve in water. Hope that the resin they used resolves this issue.
@@hed420 There are plenty of resins that aren't water soluble. In fact, can you guess what kind of technique dentists use nowadays? Surprise! Resin 3D printing.
Well resin has been known to be water tight for years. Most of the resins for hobby use don't stand up well in water. That said there are plenty of ones that are water safe. Some of the new ones that you can thermal cure on top of the UV cure so you don't end up with the uncured internal resin issues although it is absurdly expensive and I don't think I have seen clear.
Scanning the case is certainly an option, but bending a wire to the run you want and then measuring that wire would be a heck of a lot easier. And cheaper. Still a cool project though
if you clearcoat the resin print you can achieve translucency. I have lightly wetsanded some resin prints, clearcoated them and ended up with parts clear enough to easily read text through. Resin prints can continue to cure in sunlight and end up cracking so a UV clearcoat is a nice way to mitigate that
You know who is also as mad? Our sponsor, Acronis! Okay jokes aside this is really cool. It’s even done in a SSUPD case with the Barrow combined pump/reservoir/block
If the tubing does not fail within six months I would recommend leaving it in direct sunlight or under UV lights to see how long it survives thereafter. I would also love to see a comparison with parts printed by xometry or someone with a traditional industrial 355nm wavelength printer using ceramic resin or something of the like. The desktop models or DLP models use 405nm wavelength to cure the resin.
I have 3d printed some mold for a custom loop I did for a friend it required a tube with 4 precise bends and to make it square I created a series of dies to properly bend the PMMA pipes.
4:04 means your settings are not correct, although it's less relevant because you can coat the stuff in epoxy. I printed a part in petg for a hydrolic tank and it is indeed water tight. There is a alternative where you fill the part with sand and put it in a box of packed sand then heat it enough to somewhat melt which will also seal the print.
Maybe on a high-end printer I would agree with you, but on a lot of the extremely low quality low-cost consumer models, I would not expect those prints to be water tight. And yes, there are solutions for that problem but coding an entire tube in epoxy at that point, why don't you just use traditional hardline methods because it's impressive enough for way less manual labor
@@xXlURMOMlXx but can you reliably do that with relatively thin tubes? And also can you do that from printer to printer because something that you need to understand Is these cheap consumer models? Do not have high tolerances so you could get one that's capable of amazing precision and you can get another one that couldn't print watertight tubes to save its life, especially because a lot of these companies do not care about the tolerances they're they are just trying to sell you really cheap garbage
@@the_undead that's a skill issue. The printers are cheap because you have to build them and calibrate it yourself. It's a pita but you get what you pay for. Spend a little more for a bambu and it's a non issue
Okay I will admit that is pretty awesome...been watching a ton of custom loop videos since my next build I want to finally do my first hard line...and this is just cool!
5:51 if you guys didn’t know why he suggested using uv paint it’s because if you watch one of his older videos he shows off his old pcs and one of those pcs had custom water cooling and uv reactive paint and a crap ton of I’ve lights. I just wanted to point this out because that is really cool that he still to this day loved uv pcs
Guys, you need to improve the thumbnail on this one. This was such an interesting video which I almost never clicked on because the thumbnail would only interest people who are already into liquid cooling.
@@VitalVampyr but not a fully 3d printed one idk maybe add 3d printed screws, GPU riser water-cooling blocks (and using the stuff in this video) + 3d printed monitor stand mouse and keyboard
Hey LInus, you absolutely can print watertight tubing in PETG on a regular 3D printer. I've done a bunch of experiments on this because I can't use resin printers in our apartment. Over extruding the flow rate along with reducing cooling of PETG can give the right amount of 'squish' and stickyness between the layers. Yes, there's a bit of experimentation to get the profile right but on my Artillery Sidewinder X2 bed slinger I can regularly print watertight pipes and other designs. Another technique is to print in PLA and flood fill the interior in slow set low viscosity epoxy but it's a bit finnicky and messy. I've had a lot of fun doing 3D printing for PC interiors. In fact, I've currently got an air cooled modded Y40 on the Hyte subreddit. Marrying 3D printing with PC design could really be a game changer in the modded PC community.
One interesting benefit to the spiral tubing is you've inadvertently created a secondary radiator in your PC. There's a heckin lot of extra surface area to radiate heat through.
This is exactly what a Stratasys polyjet excels at. A J 750 or J 850 can print out some absolutely massive tube runs. All you have to do to prep the prints is remove the water-soluble support material.
You can seal SLA prints pretty decently by spraying the inside with an appropriate material. I wanted a watering can and I waterproofed it with shellac, which is pretty harmless and really easy to work with.
my Father added a pump and sandfilter to a wooden tub (used as a big bathtub complete with heating), connections to pump the water in and out of the tub were printed in petg. Outside of getting broken by their dog and my 3 year old once each, those connections / passthroughs have been leakfree for about 5 years now without sealing it with epoxy or the like. only some teflon on the threads connecting the individual parts was used
If you make the "tubes" square or rectangular instead, you can create some cool designs that don't even need supports for the 3D printer, making it easier to print with higher quality.
Print using a metal like copper and print/design the tubing with more surface are outside, with fins, bumps or extrusions for it itself to become a part of the cooling. So tubing becomes part radiator. With enough additional surface area from/with the special modified extruded tubing you might even getaway not having to use a radiator. All the tubing is the radiator.
one thing i would love to see now, is a small reservoir built into the tube(so for instance the spiral could be filled out, and used as a reservoir) and it could make water cooling a tiny form factor pc better, since you can fit the tubes in where there is space, and make a small reservoir where there is space for it, and even a fill cap located in a convenient spot, and a drain port as well.
if you do have trouble making PLA water tight, you can also change the settings to completely infill the model, and also make the extruder hotter to meld the layers together far better, ive made a water fountain with PLA and was able to keep it water tight just with this trick
applying a coat or two of resin to the outside of the piping before installing would likely make the part significantly stronger and more water tight. it might even come out looking smoother :)
Just FYI while I am blanking on which filament it is, but it is a common one, you can use IPA in a spray bottle and just spray the tubes, this causes the outer layer to momentarily become quite Viscus and it will then bond together completely and have the outer layer of the pipe print be one solid and sealed shell, the IPA will then in minutes sublimate and all you had to do was either use a thin line such as leader line from a fishing rod, which you can get at The Dollar Store, and either just make a simple plug that goes into one end of the tube so it can hang free for the few minutes it needs to do this process or you can feed it through the pipe and have a loop in the end and put a bar through a loop in the end of the fishing line to prevent it from slipping back through the pipe, but make it so simple to remove when finished. This can also be achieved by UV reactive Filament as the process is just about the same but then you just use UV to harden the outer layer and its completely sealed and water tight.
