3D Printer Bed Leveling - You Are Doing It All WRONG! Try This Instead!

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A Tutorial on How to Level Your 3D Printer Bed with Paper so you will achieve a PERFECT 1st Layer and get AMAZING Bed Adhesion!
✅ Digital Calipers/ Micrometer [AMAZON]: geni.us/UTWTvtO
This tutorial by a 3D Printer Professional goes thru EVERYTHING you need to know so you will achieve amazing First Layer Adhesion and A Strong Base for your 3D Prints. This method will work well with any 3D PRINTER INCLUDING: CR-10, CR-10s, CR-10s Pro or Ender 3 Pro / V2
Includes:
The Best Paper to Use (and its not regular printer paper)
Prep and Set Up of your 3D Printer
The Bed Leveling Technique with Close Up Views
How to Examine your First Layers
*** Ender 3 Pro Printer used in this video is fully stock except for glass bed. Stock Firmware and Stock Cura Profile for PLA. I deliberately keep this printer stock, so you will be able to achieve similar results with your equipment.
⭐ 1st Layer Test Print: www.thingiverse.com/thing:
Filament used in Video:
✅ Sunlu PLA+ (red) [AMAZON]: geni.us/wOAD
✅ eSun PLA Pro (yellow) [AMAZON]: geni.us/wVp28s
** RECOMMENDED 3D PRINTERS AND ACCESSORIES **
Here are a few 3D Printers I own and/or highly recommend...
✅ Ender 3 Pro [AMAZON]: geni.us/g6fQkH6
✅ Ender 3 V2 [AMAZON]: geni.us/QnUA
✅ CR-10s PRO v2 [AMAZON]: geni.us/EUIlCCk
✅ CR-10 S5 (for experienced users) [AMAZON]: geni.us/Fyn3
✅ Artillery Sidewinder X1 [AMAZON]: geni.us/0wID0V
✅ Artillery Sidewinder X2 [AMAZON]: geni.us/0JmB1
3D Printer Gear and Equipment:
✅ Creality Tool Kit and Box [AMAZON]: geni.us/0OCiRwQ
✅ Glass Bed - Ender 3 [AMAZON]: geni.us/BPtHKu
✅ Digital Micrometer [AMAZON]: geni.us/UTWTvtO
✅ Stainless Steel Rulers Set [AMAZON]: geni.us/PAOT
✅ LED Light Set [AMAZON]: geni.us/ArHtaPB
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Studio Equipment:
✅ Sony 4K Camera [AMAZON]: geni.us/DgE6so
✅ Panasonic 4K Camera [AMAZON]: geni.us/BlefYL
✅ Neewer Studio Lighting [AMAZON]: geni.us/07iZ
✅ GVM RGB Studio Lighting [AMAZON]: geni.us/yBbcf
✅ Vanguard Alta Pro Tripod [AMAZON]: geni.us/TR63Nt9
✅ Govee RGB Lighting [AMAZON]: geni.us/ocK2aS
➡️Try Amazon Prime 30-Day Free Trial: amzn.to/3abBpnl
Help Support the Channel:
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Be sure to LIKE and SUBSCRIBE!
Thank you,
tr3nD maker
#3dprinter #level3dprinterbed #ender3pro
tr3nD maker is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com.

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Опубликовано:

10 июл 2021

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Комментарии : 257

@slelley Год назад

This was THE most sound advice I’ve seen. I spent over an hour trying to level my bed today. After watching this video, I got it done in minutes. THANK YOU!

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Glad it helped!

@philipvandal3981 10 месяцев назад

Honestly me too man I was pulling my hair out for 3 days trying to figure this problem out and how to level it best. This helped me get it done in 5 minutes and now back to printing! I was honestly ready to sell this model and buy a expensive printer.

@bruinsmash8836 Год назад

This was by far - THE BEST - explanation/guide on manual bed leveling. THANK YOU.

@coolhannah1376 День назад

Thank you so much most people who explain what to do don’t give clear and thorough instructions thank you for your dedication and effort. I want you to know you are amazing and keep up the good work you are making a good difference in the world/3d printing community.

@morgaj21 Год назад

Not only was this a really clear explanation, it was superbly demonstrated as well. Good job.

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Glad it was helpful!

@angsts1 Месяц назад

Out of all the videos, this is the only one that actually helped me. Thank you

@ravenwolfpriestess Год назад

ok, i am new to 3d printing and your video was the first one that actually helped me get my bed level! when removing the giant flat square i printed to test if I did it right it was like paper! thank you soooooooo much for doing this in a way that someone who isnt overly tech savvy could figure out.

@BWtalks Месяц назад

This fixed every issue I had been having with my 3d printer! You got my like, subscription, and comment as well! Thank you! ❤

@danelledehne4405 Год назад

This was super helpful!! Especially the last part where you were showing what too close to too far looks like. Thank you!!!

@jacobkidd237 2 года назад

This is super material! One thing to note is that the difference between a nozzle that is too close and one that is too far from the bed is insanely small! Your gradient example is fantastic, but lots of beginners dont understand the difference is insanely MINUTE. Keep it up!

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Thanks for the encouragement!

@Symbios767 Год назад

I'm still very new to the hobby and this helped me out a ton! Thanks for giving such a good description of the exact "feel" to look for.

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Very welcome!

@KinksRule Год назад

Great great suggestion about using thermal receipt. That did the trick for me on my first ever 3D printer. One suggestion that made this all work is that I pulled the thermal paper tight as I ran it under the nozzle. As I was trying this initially I was just sliding the paper under the nozzle and the tension seemed OK. Then something made me realize that I should pull the paper taught. When I did this it showed me that there was still too much gap between the bed and the nozzle. I adjusted the bed closer at that point, went around all four corners of the bed twice making sure to keep the tension on the paper. I'm now printing my first successful object! 😀

@yungkaneki7334 6 месяцев назад

Thank you so much I’ve spent days trying to get this thing to work after I got it and this was the FINAL step I was missing bless you

@ahmadmohseni-meybodi7760 Год назад

Best explanation of leveling bed, thank you

@wolfgang6028 Год назад

You explained it very good with the test print. I ended on the thermo paper also, mainly because it makes you better feel about the actual distance to the nozzle, but the lower thickness is also positive in my case

@LittleMrsNobody 3 месяца назад

i have been struggling with getting bed adhesion for a solid month now, brand new to 3d printing. i have an ender 3 s1 and THIS video has saved my sanity!! i am reposting this video in the facebook newbie groups i am in, as it has been invaluable!!!!! thank you so much. you have a def sub from me!!!!

@tr3nDmaker Месяц назад

Thank you for watching and for re-posting.

@shennalim111 8 месяцев назад

Fantastic content. I'll be doing this in future.....and watching more of your videos. Thank you.

@meistergaetan 4 месяца назад

You are a life saver. You saved me hours of frustration with your technique and I now use 3Dlac for adhesion on the glass bed and this is just pure pleasure now. thank you so much !!!!!!

@tr3nDmaker 4 месяца назад

Glad I could help!

@davmcraig 2 года назад

This was extremely useful to me and I appreciate you posting this. I am rather new to this and hit a rough patch after we had a cold spell. Basement temp dropped to under 59 and nothing adhered. I bought a space heater and invested in some glue stick but still ran into a lot of problems. This really made a difference. Only thing I would add, though, for cold climates is to warm the bed up first. I discovered some pretty substantial differences if I performed these steps on a cold bed.

@tr3nDmaker 2 года назад

Yes. After I posted video, I realized I edited that section out. Unfortunately, I can not add it back.

@aaronkeysorvoiceactor Год назад

Thank you ! This was beyond helpful ! Youre the man

@CrownOfThornss 18 дней назад

Thanks! That was super helpful!

@larrypoulton6401 Месяц назад

Thank you. I was having problems like you demonstrated but think more accurate levelling with the thermal receipt will probably resolve them :)

@majorredbeard 4 месяца назад

Excellent, and thank you for creating the skewed bed at the end to show what's too much and too little, that's quite helpful visually!

@tr3nDmaker 4 месяца назад

Glad I could help.

@richardrussell1025 10 месяцев назад

Nice tip I never seen before, I just used a thermal receipt and it come out perfect when I printed out a 3x3 square. Never had that happen before. Thats going to save some time getting that first layer set up.

@gaveintothedarkness Год назад

amazing demonstration thank you!

@DevinDefault 7 месяцев назад

Dude i thank you so much might be a 2yr old video but you saved help me out so much! instantly subscribed

@chesterpertchik5539 6 месяцев назад

This video is outstanding and I'm switched to thermal receipts from now on. THANKS!

@tr3nDmaker 5 месяцев назад

Glad it helped!

@TheFallenN00b 6 месяцев назад

This tutorial had me up and running in around 20 minutes. Finally getting my skirts to come out perfect! Thank you so much!!

@tr3nDmaker 5 месяцев назад

Wonderful! Very happy to help!

@jakubkemr3711 Год назад

Thank you very much. this is incredible change.

@rafaelr5837 Год назад

Made sense from the beginning. Thank you for making it simple.

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Glad to help!

@NinjaHempKnight Год назад

This is a nice video and very informative. This helped me take care of my issue and I greatly appreciate it.

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Glad it helped

@matthewframe1435 Год назад

Most informative video I have seen so far, Thank you :)

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Thanks for great comment.

@kurti4432 2 года назад

This is Gold! Been printing for a while but never thought about using receipt paper for PLA! I'm assuming you can double it up for PETG or use printer paper for that perfect flow. Much appreciated for this well put together tutorial!

@tr3nDmaker 2 года назад

Thanks for the nice words... For PETG, regular printer paper should be ok... just try to find something on thinner side. Of course, try the receipt first and see how it looks. It should work fine with a bit more bite to bed.

@Greggflynn 2 года назад

I’ve been using the backing from my shipping labels, just measured and I get 0.07 to 0.08, apparently I’ve been using the perfect medium because it’s slick too. I also use CHEP’s M0 and M25 gcode files and I have to say I’ve been getting great results. You’ve done a great video, thanks!

@tr3nDmaker 2 года назад

That sounds like a winner! Thanks for letting us know!

@mattmattic929 Год назад

Thank you soo much!! you explained it so well and now i can finally get my prints to adhere correctly, thank bud!

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

You are very welcome.

@seekertosecrets Год назад

I would never have thought of using thermal paper for bed leveling! Good information!

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

My frustration in my first few months had me experimenting to find a solutions. Thanks for watching!

@jman5822 Год назад

Thank you for the video and detailed explanation 🙏 new to 3D printing, had some nice, clean prints initially and then things started getting wonky. Thought I had leveled it correctly, but the margin for error is so much smaller than I imagined. Particularly helpful, to me, was the test print where you showed the gradient from too close to the plate to too far away from it. Thanks again!!

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Glad it helped!

@thecubra1 Год назад

Absolutely awesome thank u so much my bed is now the best its ever been just got your self a new subscriber !!!

@jeanscott940 Год назад

AMAZING video... I've been struggling with leveling my Ender 3 S1. This was very helpful especially the visual representation of too close and too far at the end!! Confirms I have been too far away from print bed. I seem to have gotten my bed adhesion fixed and print quality improved.

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

I am very happy I was able to help… stay tuned for more vids coming soon. Just started back after long break. Mid-editing on 2 new vids now!

@original1films 10 месяцев назад

Amazing!!!!!!!My first layer test print came out absolutely perfect after doing this with my Lowes receipt! Thank You so much. Ive been going crazy, Got my sub and like!

@tr3nDmaker 10 месяцев назад

I am happy to help… planning 5 new videos now… including review of new Ender 3 v3 SE

@dilyo1 6 месяцев назад

Great video. This helped me so much. I love how you did the example. Thank you

@tr3nDmaker 5 месяцев назад

Glad it was helpful!

@rogerchapa6461 Год назад

Best leveling vid on RU-vid!

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Thanks, I appreciate your feedback!

@gadgetgurl7 2 месяца назад

Thank you. This really help me understand the bed level test on my Neptune 3 Pro

@tr3nDmaker 2 месяца назад

Very happy to help.

@brianh.000 Месяц назад

Great explanation. I haven't used my printer in a few years, and have forgotten everything! It's coming back to me....

@flux.3dworks376 2 года назад

this so much easier to understand... Thanks anyway bro :D

@kopinmuli 2 месяца назад

thank you, nice informative video.

@tr3nDmaker 2 месяца назад

Glad it was helpful!

@martinmauras6794 8 месяцев назад

Thank you my dude! Very clear!

@tr3nDmaker 8 месяцев назад

You are very welcome!

@AK.Navy.Veteran 9 месяцев назад

On my bed slinger I’ve been using a Filament Friday E-Leveler 2 works great.

@JohnSmith-dh3kx Год назад

I have a different perspective that I'd like to share: At the beginning of each job, the machine checks to see where the Z home is. Z home is where the nozzle touches the build plate (Z = 0.00). Since you don't want the nozzle to actually touch the build plate, the limit switch triggers a bit before the nozzle gets there. The machine needs to know what that distance (known as the Z-offset) is exactly so it can do it's calculations during the job. We need to measure that distance and enter it. Once entered, that number doesn't need to be changed unless you change the nozzle or switch. You can measure the distance to the shim of your choice then include the shim thickness. Paper is a common choice. For example, if Z is -2.00mm when touching the paper, and the paper is 0.10mm thick, then the Z-offset is -2.10mm. Any adjustment to the first layer can be made in Cura. I'm guessing it can be done with other slicers too.

@kajpaget3180 Год назад

So awesome! Thank u

@eTriumph0719 Год назад

Thank you. Great for beginner.

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Glad I could help.

@josephpk4878 Год назад

This is the video that I'm going to use to level my Ender 5 S1 for the first time. Very informative.

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Awesome!

@ozlemtezel6313 2 года назад

this video is heaven to me thank u so much

@tr3nDmaker 2 года назад

you are welcome.... stay tuned for more videos.

@logowatchman 6 месяцев назад

Great video. Well explained.

@tr3nDmaker 5 месяцев назад

Glad it was helpful!

@kouvang3340 6 месяцев назад

This was the best leveling I have ever done before! After printing paper, feeler gauge, leveling machine that lights up, none of them had work! Wow this made it work!

@tr3nDmaker 5 месяцев назад

Thanks for your feedback. Glad to help.

@palmcrazysg 2 года назад

THANK YOU SO MUCH! It works!

@tr3nDmaker 2 года назад

You are welcome.

@phreshxmetal Год назад

this helped alot, thank you!

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Glad to help!

@karinawork2285 Год назад

thank you

@hobbyrob313 Год назад

Look this is a good explanation perfect!

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Thank you.

@raventhelabrador2665 7 месяцев назад

Thank you very much for going into lots of detail on how to do this with paper because I've found lots of tutorials but no one explains how much friction is needed or ifbits even needed at all so every time id be left with the same question and had to look for another tutorial. Anyways i finally found this amazing tutorial and you have answered my question and now I can finally get to printing. Anyways on a different topic do you have any knowledge on the sonic pad and any tutorials on how best to use this? Thank you very much.🙂👍✌️

@tr3nDmaker 7 месяцев назад

Thank you for watching and encouraging words. New vids coming soon.

@mat.delpapa 2 месяца назад

I`ve been trying to tram my bed for several hours. This video gave me the best results (with the receipt), however my bed is warped. Right at the 4 knobs, I feel just a little friction, however, in the center and between the knobs (center left, right back and front) it slightly dips down. I also still see noticeable lines, but I'm not sure if they're over extrusion lines or if the knobs are too loose (as you show/say in your example). I also have blobs/bits of filament where the nozzle lifts. You mention a video about leveling with feeler gauges, but I couldn't find the link anywhere. I hope you notice this comment soon but I understand you may be flooded with notifications. Thanks for the video!

@tr3nDmaker 2 месяца назад

A small warp in bed is ok. Just level again and try and level in the middle also. As long as print is sticking to bed… just go with it. A very worthwhile upgrade is a glass bed. This will create a flat layer. Personally, I exclusively use glass on all my printers. Also, buy Elmers Jumbo Purple Glue stick. Wipe glass with glue stick and prints will stick amazingly.

@scott4868 Месяц назад

Feel like a fucking genius loading up this video whilst using a piece of a receipt because I couldn’t find any printer paper

@BertGoSkrrt 23 дня назад

😂😂

@nrich5127 24 дня назад

I have used both types of paper but what is the game changer for me is printing a CHEP Bed Leveling Test Print afterwards and fine adjusting according to the thickness of this first layer print. Knowing what a first layer should look like is standard to be reached and I fine tune the knobs according to the outside lines thickness until it looks perfect. If the thickness is equal at each corner then you are good to go. Before I start a large print I always print a CHEP Bed Test Print to ensure I'm just perfect to proceed. Another item that I would like to mention is I highly recommend buying or building a filament dehumidifier and enjoy problem free prints - the difference is night and day.

@KYMarty 6 месяцев назад

Wish I could click Like more than once. I've been so frustrated but I'm looking forward to trying the printer again. Every one of my prints were clearly flawed due to the gap being too large. The first layer looked like a harp with individual strings and it finally quit adhering. Exactly my problem. Thanks!!

@charlesmckinley29 6 месяцев назад

Thank you

@tr3nDmaker 5 месяцев назад

You're welcome

@realsharpninja 2 месяца назад

Thanks!

@tr3nDmaker 2 месяца назад

Thank you so much for watching!

@danieljamesbinderystu2968 Год назад

I cant tell you how HELPFUL this was to me, a person that only has 2 days of experience with my very 1st printer!!! I never watched or researched anything on 3d printers until I purchased my very 1st printer a week ago!!! Most videos you find on RU-vid that are "3d print for BRAND NEW beginners" all talk you already know ALL THE BASICS, all the language, all the definitions, all the terms, parts, slang, definitions, settings, etc etc etc!! they also speak like you SHOULD alreadu have all this packed down SOLID as a 2 day old BEGINNER!! i just recieved my Qidi x-plus II printer 2 days ago... and i cant even get my "test print" that came pre'loaded into the printer... finished. Ive been failing NON-STOP FOR 2 DAYS NOW... ALL WEEKEND, nothing but frustration. Iam a ery MECHANICALLY INCLINED person... but i have zero experience with anything 3d printing at all! So thank you so much, this was beyond its worth in gold, and extremely informative. Thank you again!

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

So happy I could help!

@MrJuuddss 10 месяцев назад

dude thankyou for the tip, i was using regular paper but for the life of me i could not get that first layer to stick, the minute i used a receipt bam 100% success on every print ty tyt y this was such a great tutorial

@tr3nDmaker 10 месяцев назад

You are very welcome.

@theluckyreviewerchannel9546 6 месяцев назад

Man!! Thank you!! If you have an Ender-3 V2, use that little triangular card that comes with it. Its a thick piece of paper. Worked perfectly.

@tr3nDmaker 5 месяцев назад

Glad I could help.

@jest3r5 Год назад

Awesome info.

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Glad it was helpful!

@anassenpai5809 Год назад

that was helpful thank you

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

You are welcome.

@mrrcomp 3 месяца назад

Thanks for the great trick of using the receipt. Just one issue the link you have to the first layer print test isn't working can you please resend the link

@casualpencil65 11 месяцев назад

This is great. Ty.

@tr3nDmaker 10 месяцев назад

Thanks for watching.

@raymondnist8770 Год назад

towards the end of the video you said if we were interested in using the feeler gauge method there would be a link in the upper right hand corner. I didn't see a link there or in the description. I also didn't see a video on your channel, Do you have the link? Thanks!!

@WPM8116 Месяц назад

I switched from an 0.4 mm nozzle on my ender 3 v3 se, to a 0.2 mm nozzle. at first I got no bed adhesion at all, now thanks to this, I'm dialing it in one pass at a time.

@protofreak9518 Год назад

Did this after installing slice engineering heat break but used .07 feeler gauge instead of paper did it with the bed at 60 and nozzle at 150 to keep from oozing then did the chep bed level squares and they were perfect

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

I have a video that I never finished editing that I shot along with this one… using a feeler gauge. Feeler gauge is great… but wait till you start leveling the bed by eye... super fast!

@kcthompson445 4 месяца назад

Thank you so much I thought my printer was done for.

@tr3nDmaker 4 месяца назад

Glad I could help!

@sirrodneyffing1 5 месяцев назад

Best tips ever. Saved me endless grief. Thank you.

@tr3nDmaker 3 месяца назад

Glad I could help.

@AmericanBoy88 Год назад

Right now I'm trying out a different slicer I was using ultimaker cura slicer high right now I am trying out prusaslicer and seeing if that was my problem will not be around for at least another five hours the slicer program already loaded onto a SD card but the printer is currently busy with a print with the new slicer but it's not the one which is the most difficult

@austinspurlock7591 2 месяца назад

i have finaly got the thing to print after a WEEK OF FAILS THANK YOU

@tr3nDmaker 2 месяца назад

You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!

@ashokmoghe8035 Год назад

Great video. New to 3D printing and learning. Subscribed to your channel too. For some reason I couldn't see any links you talked about in the video. Can't see those links in your description either. Do you mind sharing them, please. Thanks in advance.

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Thanks for the sub!

@DiamondShines4U Год назад

Hello and thanks so much for posting this video. The link you have listed for the 1st Layer Test Print is no longer valid. Do you an updated link or a new test print that you think will work well with the Ender 3 Max? Thanks again for your time.

@Plumpkatt1 2 года назад

I fully agree and discovered this on my own. Wish I had saw this before. Anyhow, I love that you are using painters tape to hold your glass instead of clips. Genius...... I also find I try to feel for the vibration of the steppers. They will sort of buzz when you slide the paper. How perfect sould it be. Im now using a bed probe so I level using that. I try to have everything at .00 but it drives my ocd nuts. Is one corner being at .000 and 1 corner at .010 terribly bad? Because using just paper you wouldnt really know easily if 1 corner is slightly less?

@tr3nDmaker 2 года назад

Try giving a bit of a lift to bed before you level with paper(use hands and just lightly pull it up). This will relieve tension on springs and release any binding. Get it even across all 4 corner... then use bed probe. You should be GOLDEN!

@Plumpkatt1 2 года назад

@@tr3nDmaker Yea, Ive got it. Here is a benchy. Sorry for the crappy quality. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aqvJ7H6JL5U.html

@David-hm9ic Год назад

The thermal printer paper is a great idea. When I level, I try to get the nozzle directly over the adjusting screws so there is no pitching or "see-saw' effect upsetting the balance. If that doesn't make sense, think of a board going over a pivot point. As the end of the board is raised or lowered so is the rest of the board. The closer to the pivot, the smaller the difference becomes. It will never be zero but if the measurement (nozzle and paper/feeler gauge) is taken 25mm from the screw the difference will be much greater than if taken directly over the screw. It saves you from "chasing the numbers" and gets a great "level" quicker. I like the term tramming better because it better describes the process. As with a milling machine, the idea is to keep the bed the same distance from the nozzle at any position regardless of whether it's level to the Earth.

@ozlemtezel6313 2 года назад

what you think about silicone mounts ? i have ender 3 v2 and and I lost my level so quick even after one print do you prefer silicone or yellow springs and why , thank u

@tr3nDmaker 2 года назад

I like the Yellow springs on ender 3... I have not tried the silicone yet... But, maybe, I ll buy a set to compare.

@Explore531 Год назад

I got great tip once you gotten best leveled bed I would of using hot glue on under those 4 knobs so it wont move while daring printing

@AK.Navy.Veteran 9 месяцев назад

How about using on a Qidi X Max 3, I hate using there special sheet, it gets expensive having to replace the sheet at 30 for 3 sheets.

@Wraith1979 Год назад

I'm looking for the video on how you do the bed leveling with the feeler gauge

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

I have one all videoed... just haven't gotten around to editing it yet. I see if I can get it up early next week.

@robina.jensen6114 6 месяцев назад

Could there be a difference between 3D Printers? To my Snapmaker 2.0 there where measure paper for leveling provided by the manufactor and that paper is thicker than a termo paper.

@tr3nDmaker 5 месяцев назад

This method works on all 8 of my printers. That said, I pretty much only tram/level by eye now.

@verdant2215 21 день назад

This fixed the extruder click issue. I was using printer paper and for whatever reason the printer kept trying to level it which caused the extruder to begin clicking

@darpajian 8 месяцев назад

Thanks, the info in this video really helped with my bed adhesion. Just one thing... Calipers and micrometers are not the same. What you are showing and provide links to, are digital calipers, NOT micrometers. While both can give you a thickness measurement (assuming you are using outside micrometers), calipers use your thumb to set the distance & pressure on the measured piece, a micrometer uses a torque limited thimble system and can provide a level of accuracy typically 10-100x that of calipers.

@tr3nDmaker 8 месяцев назад

I understand, I work on car a lot and sometimes talk too fast and mix up technical names. On a more humble note… they are actually called Digital Caliper Verniers. Thanks you for your post. I will be sure to name it properly in the future.

@chilloutsweet2601 6 месяцев назад

Wow!! I almost threw my printer out the window. Great video

@tr3nDmaker 5 месяцев назад

Glad it helped

@bigpaul009 2 месяца назад

A bit off track but can you use disable steppers to get the bed leveled and save the settings, tia

@tr3nDmaker 2 месяца назад

Yes, you can disable steppers. But, that is not why bed needs leveling after prints. Main reason leveling is needed is spring tension and positions get disturbed when removing prints. Even slightest movement of bed seems to knock position off.

@garthbrennan3739 Год назад

Thanks for this! I had been using printer paper and probably too much tension on the paper. I was getting uneven first layers and I had to re-level the bed after each print! Changed to receipt paper and less tension on it and it has given me a 100% improvement in my prints and I have now printed 10 models without having to re-level the bed! Thanks again

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

You are so welcome!

@AmericanBoy88 Год назад

Basically you have to use blue tape if you want the best of both worlds using hairspray to make the first layer to flat and it can mix together especially if you have two parts put together next week other with needs to separate after the print

@clawsmedia8752 9 месяцев назад

how about moving the z axis to zero and setting up the offset?

@DennisWarner Год назад

I didn’t see the link for the feeler gauge method

@danelledehne4405 Год назад

I have a question. Is it normal for my edges (1-1.5” in) to be lower than my middle? If I get my edges set my middle is too tight/low. I have a Creality ender v2 neo.

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Unfortunately, aluminum warps easy… especially with high heat. Buy a glass bed and use Elmers Purple Glue Stick and you will have a super flat bed. You will love the very smooth bottom surface as well.

@muskkidm7764 Год назад

Thank you for this video. I’ve been trying the thermal paper approach for over an hour. Just when I think I have it …. I check the center of the bed. The gap is WAY to narrow. Any suggestions ?

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Don’t worry about the middle… stick to 4 corners. The heat cycling of bed often causes a slight dip in the center. If 4 corners are sticking and middle you are fine. If having issues in middle that you can’t resolve. In setting… set first layer to .28 or .32. All other layers can be whatever. This throws down a bit more plastic to get good bed adhesion. If cant fix it… buy or make glass bed. Very flat. I have a vid on how to make your own if your good with tools. Link in description if you want to buy one. Good luck. Let me know if this helped.

@muskkidm7764 Год назад

@@tr3nDmaker thank you !! I will let you know how I make out

@AmericanBoy88 Год назад

I realized my posted I was using hairspray not lose tape would cause the first layer of my print to stick together charge your technique with blue tape originally it worked perfectly fine and yes I even tried the paper everyone else uses even looser tolerances and it still did not work so basically I'm sorry I said what I said I only say this because I don't put all stuff which is bad

@gladiatormechs5574 Год назад

what about layer shifting ?... this is my machines problem.. is this caused by the pcb control board ?

@tr3nDmaker Год назад

Probably not, but possible. Do these first. Check belts are tightened just enough to get a slight strum out of them… like a guitar string. Axis should move nice and smooth though. 2nd… be sure the little screw on extruder gear is tight and tightened on the flat spot on extruder shaft. 3rd. Get a name brand SD card… the factory sd a horrible and fail often.