Staight to the point, NO BS / crappy background music, GREAT delivery, and lots of good info. Tightening my Y axis wheels solved the issue I had. Thank you, sir!
I had literally given up 3d printing for a bit due to the pain of 'leveling' getting one good test print, then the next one ruined. I would spend hours on it! Then get mad and rage quit. Now, thanks to your video, I've done 6 prints and only needed to tram my bed once! You're a lifesaver, thank you!
Oh wow, that is a great message to read. My whole channel exists to help someone just like you. I'm really glad something I put out helped you get printing again👍
A 3D printing channel that actually applies basic engineering principles to getting the best from your printer. If I had watched this video rather than the 'lets just throw your printer together and get printing in 10 minutes' videos it would have saved me a lot of grief! Some lessons in here I have already learned the hard way, but some new stuff to check out too. This should be required viewing for all new Creality printer users.
@akashic seer if your CR Touch is getting weird measurements sometimes, check floating voltage on Aluminium gantry you have; mine was ungrounded and that's problem minor for your tech (bricking electric things and bed) but serious hazard for your health
@akashic seer they, imho, are very wise. They sell what they think is achievable and easy to replace/redo and would not be (because they sell on the price nobody would like to beat, within same quality). I think they have better quality design but in-house, for them. See space programme. Also some CNC measurement machines. They have great quality and accuracy, and as I know, we don't know how they achieved that. Kudos for doing chess moves with other world parts. Personally, I started learning Mandarin Chinese.
@akashic seer last thing, you could pretty easily fix this; prepare one small plastic tie and 30cm long 1mm^2 isolated copper wire. End it with spades or plate connector like in car connectors. Disconnect powersuppy, cut tie on power supply holding the cables to motors. demount power supply only with 4 biggest screws holding it to aluminium (you may need to watch Z steps cable as it is sometimes taped to top of the powersupply cover). Only need to scratch some emulsion from the aluminium gantry where the top right screw is (assuming your Ender is lying on the right side and you see the bottom on the front). Place spades connector under the one of the remaining silver screws on the shorter wall of the there. Check connectivity between the wire another end and pin in power supply socket with the measurement device. Place the power supply back to this and put spades connector under the screw and supply body where you have scratched aluminium. Now check if any other place (near the black screws in aluminium) are 0 resistance to PE cable in the connector. And for sanity check if any other pin in power supply socket is not connected to PE, so to aluminium cage too. Best regards
My ender 3 s1 is now printing a 90 plus hour print of a full zise helmet. Just downloaded the file. Sliced it wit the basic support settings. Its now at 65% done and its looking amzing
I agree. When tutorials are too full of unnecessary chatter, and unfunny jokes. I tend to fast forward and then miss vital info. I don't click on a tutorial, to hear about a youtubers day, or meet their dog, or their girlfriend. This guy knows his niche, and is very concise.
I'm gonna check for this tips, I can't get my printer to print a successful first layer, I'm new to 3d printers and I'm starting to get sick of it because of this problem 😢
You couldn’t have had better timing with this video! I just got my ender 3 v2 and I’ve been having trouble getting a good print! Got a perfect calibration cube and benchy but now my first layers are coming out 💩. Your videos are single handedly fixing my printer and I am grateful for you! Keep up the great content!
Same here ... I'm still pretty surprised that user guide is not mentionning those critical points. My hot bed was indeed absolutely not tight, as well as the horitontal guide. Thank you Ricky !
This dude is epic, you are epic dude. Seriously i wish more people spoke about these issues and brought as much attention to them as you do. I also enjoyed your makeshift filament dryer using a box and heat bed. So simple, yet so effective.
Really good explanation! Thank you! I got rid of all my Ender 3 problems (with glassbed and BLtouch and hours of "bed leveling", taking thinks apart, ....) easily quite different: by replacing it by an Prusa i3 MK3s ;-)
HA! Yip....#3...... I have dual lead screws (CR10 V3) and was told by everyone I encountered that dual leads screws *Can't go out of alignment...* As the old saying goes...... The proof is in the pudding... I had to retram every print because of this, until I finally got fed up and stopped listening to everyone else and went to investigate, the play in the Z axis side to side and also height difference between sides after power off.... And guess what I found..... Z axis creep on one side constantly..... So, as I was not able to order a Z axis kit without it costing me an arm and a leg, I made my own..... 3D printed of course. video on my channel...... Since then I've only had to retram once and that was because I swapped out my hotend, which also needs to be said.... Any work done on the hotend may need re tramming........ Thanks for the video.
Thank you, finally got my bed entirely level! Now i just found out the nozzle is clogged lol, but after that ill be printing things like my life depends on it!
Thanks dude. Got the issue where i couldn't level my printer. Too tight Z rollers were the problem.
2 года назад
Another great video from Ricky packed full with useful information, I should have watched this before my last “bed levelling” which literally took 1 and a half hours, I can’t state how much I hate BLTouch, my previous setup with Z-Switch was simple and easy to level.
I got a Ender 3 V2 just before Xmas. Have one issue with it. For some reason the right side of the bed when printing does not put a layer down for some reason. Going to try these suggestions.
I have to admit this video is really helpful even for advanced users at it contains knowledge and tips someone might not even have thought of. I especially loved the trick with the tape on the leveling wheels
I'm going to add dual linear rails so it also adds more weight. There is something to be said for machinists' lathes and mills weighing around 1000#s. And glass bed has fixed 90% of my issues.
I think I’ve had issues with gantry moving myself… suspect this might have been the cause of nozzle crashing into the bed at one point too, right after running through a bed level & starting a print.
I've been having a lot of issues with my printer here lately and of all the videos, this one has been the most helpful. You covered an area that I've yet to hear about (tightening up the bed). I'm new with all this so it's nice to finally get an answer to my problem. Thank you very much.
@@RickyImpey I agree with @d1299gator your video helped me to get the bed levelled and printed the test cat. There are some flaws but overall looks good. Now on to watching your video for installing CR touch. Thank you for your time on these videos.
No BS, no music, no cartoons, no outlandish claims ,,, awesome ! This video really covers some essential checks we will all need to make periodically in our 3D careers. I'm 2 1/2 years in and stopped by to comment and encourage new owners to pay special attention to the points made. You WILL need this info at some point in time, I urge you to get comfortable with measuring and adjusting. It's where a lot of owners falter and fail. Great prints come from well maintained printers. Great video.
I have an ender 3 s1 pro. And have the same problem every time. Front to Back. The Springs in the front are almost fully compressed and the springs in the back are so loose, the knobs are almost falling off. Most of the adjustment instructions I see only address side to side problems in the gantry uprights, and Z-Axis issues. What about the Y-Axis. There isn't really any adjustment that I can find that affect the Y-Axis. Should I try Shimming? Any Ideas?
If you look from the side of your printer, is the gantry completely perpendicular to the base? It sounds like the top could be leaning forward to get those kind of issues. If everything is square, I would reset the EEPROM to clear any bed mesh fully and then run through this video following all the steps carefully: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GmhBYOEb-ro.html Be aware that resetting the EEPROM will clear any PID and e-steps settings you may have changed so note these down first so that you can input them again afterwards.
Hey when i adjust all four corners of my printer all 4 seem to be okay offering a little friction to the paper but at the middle of the print the nozzle seems to be too close to the bed what to do?
Hey I'm new to 3d printing and I got a Creality Ender 3 V2 and it works well with Printing the problem is when I try to Print something I created or something off of thingverse or Tinkercad the only thing I can print is the rabbit or the boat but for anything else It doesn't Print Even Though it Shows on the printer Screen It doesn't print but the printing time Moves but no movement from the printer i tried countless times and I was wondering if anyone knows the problem here if so please explain to me have a great day god bless
Try this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-e-lQPGJ3Psc.html It shows the whole process you need to go through with files that have not yet been sliced.
Ricky, I love your series. Full of userful information, straight to the point, no unnecessary talk. I finished setting up my S1 Pro based on your instructions and got a perfect first print. Great channel!
Thanks for a bullocks free and quick to the point video assisting with constant bed tramming. I've had loads of trouble with the enders l own due to the every other print needing to level business. Cheers!
On the cr10s pro v2 with bl touch, I’d loosen the couplers and let it ”settle” on its position then retighten it before I start adjusting the eccentric nut. That would relieve any unbalanced tension on the z motors. Didn’t need to add z sync belts.
This video is spottt on, i watched this video and made the changes, havent leveled my bed in a week or longer and i print almost constantly, before i watched i ordered a cr touch not realizing i needed a mainboard upgrade with it, but now im contemplating wheather i need it or not? This trick keeps evergthing close enough in line you can live tune your bed while the outline of your print is printing makong small 1/4 turn adjustments, simply put, do this before you order that extra bs this is the ticket.
I spend about 10 minutes levelling my bed every day but my wife is 15 stone+ and I think the frame is sagging. The duvet is in a right state when I get in too she has it all on her side
Very good concise info! Over the years I've seen many talk about each of the issues, but not always at once or as clear. It's not new information, but so often still overlooked. And often misunderstood!!
After doing my first few prints and noticing the gantry sagging a little bit on the right side, I immediately bought the dual-z-axis kit with 2nd lead screw. It was the very first upgrade I did on my printer, and 30 bucks well spent. I almost never have to level my bed.
My old TAZ 5 has 2 z-axis motors, at first I thought it was a little goofy given that is the axis that moves the least but quickly came to appreciate it when actually cranking out prints. I've only adjusted the bed once and it's been running flawlessly (with occasional non-bed related hiccups) ever since
Hi Ricky, thank you for these fixes, thanks to you I have been able to print for 3-4 weeks without re-leveling the bed! But then eventually I had to re-level it and since then I have never been able to solve this issue again. Everything you mention in the video seems fine, and I have also checked if the extruder was wobbling, but nothing! Do you have any other suggestion on what may be causing this? Thank you in advance!
@@RickyImpey Thank you for your time. I have an ender 3 v2, sorry if I didn't specify it before. I got it to work once I fixed the x-axis like you show in the video, then I didn't touch anything else until the bed needed to be trammed again after a big print
As an aerospace and medical engineer... i approve of this message. The ONLY stock springs that are terrible are on the anet a8. They are sooooo flimsy. I had to hire 3 priest's, a cleric and a witch to gwt it to print correctly. I finally ordered some actual 3d printing springs for it, the same ones my tevo tornado uses. The twvo can go 9 months with no leveling. Maybe some baby stepping every so often but thats it. That anet a8 though..... i could smile at it and it would unlevel itself As for the silicone spacers, im mixed on that. Tramming a mil is noce because the mil surface is mounted solidly and im used to that. So with spacers, i just lower nozzle until its flush with the bed, and then just offset by 0.1mm. On a mil, there is not heat for expansion so that could be an issue at higher temps. I strictly print pla and pla+
Best instruction I've seem so far. On My ender 3 v2 every time a print starts i hear a hard knock on the Z drive, the bracket above the stepper was loose, tightened it up and still does it. I will try the whole Z and X alignment you mention to see if it works. I'm utterly frustrated on how random this stuff is. THANKS
Recently got my 3d printer, and I would go 1 maybe 2 or if I'm really lucky 3 prints with the Ender 3 V2 before I needed to spend at least 5min to "tram" the bed again in order to get a good starting print, and I think once my current print is done I'm definitely going to be spending some time to check the rollers of the X axis. Thank you for a very good video. No time wasted and very to the point.
Hello Ricky, thank you so much for this video, I'm just starting into 3D printing (Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro). I'm a big fan of your lessons, I'm a Scuba Diving Instructor and use same skills for teaching, talking in a calm way, making sure I don't teach something that I don't fully know and always show practical and visual examples, just like you do. Sending you a Big Hug from Portugal!
Great instructional video ! I bought an Amazon liquidation "Anycubic Kobra" and had issues with the extruder feed and bed not leveling. Your leveling video shacked it for me. Moving on to the bed extruder feed now and if you could create a video for this I believe it would very useful. The Anycubic Kobra feed drive is a plastic joke, whoever had this machine rammed the extruder nozzle into the bed and the plastic gears moved in every direction. I fixed it and it took over 2 hours since I fabricated the parts that were causing the problem. I'm a talker so I'll move on, and Thank you for this highly educational video.
It's called bed levelling because you're making the bed level with the gantry. Leveling itself just means that you're making something parallel with something else. Without context it means you're making something level to the ground/Earth. In this context you're making bed level with the X and Y of the printer. Similar to how in a different usage, leveling land can mean either making it flat or measuring the height or when you level the playing field, you're making your score equal to someone else's. Not that tramming is necessarily wrong, levelling is just a more complete description.
great video, i just bought my first 3d printer and i'm going insane with the leveling, sometimes a print comes out perfectly, other times it fails inmediatly and others (the most frustrating times) it fails halfway, also the clips of the bed flew out twice mid printing and started dancing above the bed i have no idea why, i'm going to try adjusting this
Very good video my friend. I'm a newby and you are my go to guy. I now have a much better understanding of how this all works and where the problems may lie. Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Not sure if you are going to get this but I was in the same boat as a lot of these folks. Hour+ of leveling getting a good test print than the actual print failing. 3 different beds, paper trick for 3 times each level, tape to level the bed (wtf this was dumb lol). It was my X axis after moving the unit a few times. Bless you sir and I thank your parents for bringing you into the world. 🎉
I've found that having a removable build plate helps to maintain the 'level' on my Ender 3. I use a 3mm thin piece of glass and hairspray (I know, 'old school') as my print layer and when a print is finished I don't try to pull on the print while it's still attached to the printer. Rather I release the glass and either let it cool naturally or stick the whole thing in the freezer. Either way my E3 doesn't go out of alignment while using a removable print bed. Just an FYI the glass in question is picture framing glass. Yes, it's delicate but it transfers heat very quickly and weighs less than half of the old traditional mirror. Highly recommended. My bit came out of a thrift store picture and I cut it to size. It cost me about $3 I seem to remember. Of course, Aqua-Net is becoming scarcer as old ladies and hair spray seems to be less of a thing.
For bended metal hot bed carborundum glass is the better way. But if you want to use steel sheet with PEI or build tak, you can correct imperfections with adhesive aluminium tape. I've found 0f 0.06mm thickness and can be stacked to have 0.12 and 0.18mm correction. Now my bed is perfect and I can say autoleveling is useless.
Eh, I tram it every time anyway. It's a habit I've picked up from manufacturing. This does make it easier though. It takes a minute or two. more than five minutes, or three tries, and I get out my tools and squares. I live in a travel trailer and temperature fluctuations can effect the adjustment springs and even put the frame out of square by a few thou. Not much, but it adds up.
Your video helped me notice that the tightener on one of my axes (the one that's positioned from left to right but rises and falls up and down) was too tight, and the little holder clip was refusing to hold onto the right-hand side because of this. Thank you for the video.
Great tips and suggestions. Precisely aligning a large structure/gantry is not intuitively obvious. Your steps will prevent hours of frustration. Blessings.
I HATE bed leveling & don't use my printer as often as I could because that leveling part is such a pain in the a$$. Our printer is the Ender 3 pro & I just figured out how to print via USB cord but that leveling, still the worst part.
@RickyImpey or anyone: I have Creality ender 3v2 with added dual motor Z-axis upgrade. Should I add pulleys to top and belt or is it useless? Also is there advice how to exactly do this? just add pulleys top of screws and belt and thats it? I do have extra belt and pulleys, so I was thinking maybe adding this would make printer stay even more stable and not change settings? Alltho so far without belt+pulleys, I have not really seen the X-gantry to get out of level.
I have an ender 3pro that failed after 5 months and an ender 3s1 that died in days. Both have massive fluctuations in the distance from the bed to the nozzle. Not even creality can figure out the issue. I've tried everything in this video. I even purchased new parts for almost every component. I've come to the conclusion ender Makes good printers, and sometimes they make defective printers. If you get a good one, then that's great. I spent almost a year trying to fix my original ender 3 pro. Adjust the gantry, wheels, bed, offset was easy until the day it stopped working.
Wow great tips! Just put Ender S1 together and did some of these tips but not all of them. Definitely going to tinker before my next use as it prints fine but first layer has been iffy
i bought my printer used and in pieces. I ASSUMED everything like that was fine but turns out everything in this vid was wrong with mine. I was so close from tossing my ender 3
I only level my bed manually with a dial indicator and check it about every 3-4 months. Just needs tweaking if that. Never let the printer do any leveling.
Thank you for a great video. I was gifted an Ender 3 Neo a few months ago and have been fighting with leveling the bed since I got it. Thanks to your video I found out the gantry was loose on the drive side. I had almost 3/8" play on the opposing side. Just finished putting everything back together, and for the first time the level test print was almost perfect. Thanks again.
Your video is enlightening however, I found that after a failed print it's often necessary to tram the bed again. When the head knocks down a print it may get misaligned. Switching off/on and running the auto-bed leveling and the Z-axis adjustment is sufficient. Ender 3 s1 pro here.
As I have finally discovered after years of hit and miss, the final part of this process is usually left out. You can use any kind of shim to level the bed but this must be included in the Z offset in one way or another. You can set the Z offset in the slicer or in the printer it self, it's always a negative value. So Z offset is negative the shim thickness of the shim used to level the bed corners. Bed leveling sensors don't care about this unless the sensor or the build area a consistent. This is why 3D printing with expensive printers is a novice business. All that novices need is an allen-key when using these $$$ gizmos.
7:20 Alex Kenis has drilled a couple inconspicuous holes into the vertical frame to be able to get to X axis adjustment any time, without having to take the top off.
I’ve got my bed levelled 100’s time, then levelled with cr touch, set z offset and have success print. Go to print again and it’s miles out …. Spent 2 hrs this morning trying to get it set again and still a pain
Your videos have been solid and helped me alot. I have a strange issue now that I am facing. I added x-axis linear rail to my Ender 3 S1 Pro. Now the print head is sitting to high to be able to get a good z axis offset. The brackets on the back side of the gantry are as far down as they can go. The bed is trammed and perfectly square with the axis, but my print nozzle is about 1-2 mm above the print bed and it can not physically be lowered. If you are looking at it from the front, it is the bracket on the right on the backside of gantry, it is hitting the plastic piece that the rotary gears are in. Any idea?
I have an issue hope you can help my creality 3 v2 i cant lvl it as the knobs get loose all 4 of them budt the gab is too far can you help me i cant find eny soloution
Hi, it sounds like you need to move the z axis limit switch on the left hand side down. If it's at the lowest, there is a raised area on the back that can be filed off to allow it to go lower still.
@@RickyImpey thank you i figure it out my sprngs under where really bad damaged budt now only one knob is loose is it possible to fix that ? i moved the z axis and that helped
I have a Ender 3 s1 pro, first i do the auto leveling after that i check manualy, the 5 positions, allá check, but when i try to print the rabit example, the nozzle start way to : from the bed, anyone knows why
I am having issues where my nozzle changes its clearance and get too close to bed when moving +y and too far when -y. My bed is not wiggling and checked every bolt or loose nut. I got Ender 3 v2 neo with cr touch by factory.
