That was an excellent video on calibrating an extruder. The lighting, audio, and camera locations were just right. Thank you for not playing any of that annoying background music that many of the content providers tend to insert into their videos. I look forward to your next video.
👍 I have 5 cr10’s and calibration is always been a pet peeve of mine and having 100mm test prints have been proven to me to be the best way to calibrate. those 20mm cubes are illogical to me Great video. Very informative.
Title should be "esteps for professionals", at I first I thought this guy is doing it wrong too many extra steps, but this method is for when you want extra precision. Great video, keep em coming 👍
This guy is so true and honest. I have an ender 3 max and i figuered that the settings wil store on the eeprom data that is on the sd card so i have to boot/start the printer with the sd card inserted
Great tutorial for setting the E-steps, but a bit of misinformation on the other three axes. Do not use a print to test the XYZ-steps, because prints will always shrink and expand during cooling. Instead use a ruler or calipers to check the distance from a known stable point both before she after the move on each axis. If you use a print to set the XYZ-steps, you'll have to reset them every time your print environment or your other print settings change. As an alternative to rulers and calipers, if you have either an optical sensor or else a camera and a laser pointer, you can use your document printer to print out a sensor strip and count how many intervals it crosses from position to position. For the camera method, I would recommend 1mm per interval (white/black) if your strip is at a distance from the camera and no less than 0.1mm if the camera is close, since you'll be counting these by eye. With the optical sensor you can be as precise as your document printer allows but you might need more complicated patterns to maintain that precision.
This method I use I print the same product with the same profile across 17 different printers. All have been outputting perfectly to my dimensions and within tolerance. Teaching tech did a great video on what you are explaining.
Cooling and expansion rates change with temperature differentials and humidity levels. That's fine if you have a controlled shop and none of your vents blow on or near your printers, or a fully enclosed printer, because you can make sure those variances are minor. For the rest of us if we calibrate by a cooled print from the start, it sets us up for failures and headaches later when we have to recalibrate the entire printer repeatedly instead of just a few flow settings. You want to calibrate your axes to make sure they're moving the nozzle and the filament to exactly where they're supposed to be and THEN account for the material effects of the filament in question, otherwise you're just hiding problems instead of resolving them. As an analogy, kicking your laundry under your bed before company comes over might make your room look nice but it still stinks and you might have nothing to wear tomorrow.
@@claws61821 I don't doubt you know what you're talking about and have first hand experience but in my experience I have not had issues you describe even with extreme variations in temperature. My 3D printers are right under my airconditioner. I turn it on/off frequently and my parts come out good enough on tolerance and they all function. I know that there are filaments out there that suffer from what you've described but for me personally PLA has never had any issues. I can appreciate if you need extreme tolerances but at that point is FDM 3D printing the right option?
Thank you for this video! I watched this and your other one that explains why the 20mm cube is not the best for calibration. These have helped me get my printer way more accurate than it was before. Also congrats on hitting 1K subscribers!
I followed your instructions and the results are amazing. However, the code for adjusting the esteps didn't work on my V2. It's a brand new printer. I just adjusted them manually which is close enough for now. You've another subscriber and thank you again. l
I believe that the firmware that comes with the printer doesn't allow M500, which is to save to EEPROM, the built in memory. Instead it saves the config to the SD card for some reason. That was one of the main reasons why I switched to a custom Marlin build. As a sidenote, please consider that while calibrating your extruder is important, reducing the value by about 5% will produce better looking prints. Keep up the great videos!
Nice instructions, instead of measuring the e step with a scale I printed out a rectangular block 90 mm long with a 2 mm hole through it. then slide the 100 mm length of filament through the hole and measure with calipers, it keeps the filament as straight as possible.
12:22... how come you dont just change it on the ender? Jw.. am trying to tune my apparatus! You seem like a cool kind helpful dude! Thank you for making this! I like the part where you extrude 100mm.... then instead of restarting and doing it again.. just extrude another 100.....! GENIUS..!
Your a life saver...i got 2 ender 3 and a V2.....i tried to calibrate one of my ender 3 pro,s a while back and later realised i messed it up as it was over extruding.....Wasnt game to fiddle after that.... just followed your extruder cal section and its no longer over extruding....Could you please do a video on your bltouch install and also the backlash bearing install....thankyou
I have to ask you, why is it YOU know how to calibrate e-steps properly, IE not pushing it through the nozzle, and pretty much every other person in the 3d printing community insist that it should be done through the hotend.. It makes complete and absolute sense to me, and it makes absolutely no sense to feed it through the hotend when the feed speed is not being taken into consideration, mostly because if you feed it even faster it will not only end up short but the extruder will start skipping steps as well, but when I try to explain this to anyone they talk to me like I dont have a clue!!!! Errrr ys I do, through the hotend is flow you calibrate in the slicer derrrrr
Nice video! I've done the e-steps calibration in a similar way. Though, if you still get behind in extruding 100mm into the hotend after calibrating, how do you compensate for step loss? I usually lose 6 - 10mm in extrusion with my Ender 5 Plus so I'm curious on what everyone else gets.
I have an E5+ and want to calibrate my Esteps, BUT, the E5+ doesn’t have all of the control the E3 screen has to do the set the software…:( Also, I can’t seem to get the Ender to talk to my MacBook Pro. Any help would be appreciated.
either this isn't enough and it also needs the save command in the file, or my printer is deaf and doesn't listen to the command because nothing changes. i have a 3 to 1 ratio extruder on mine and e steps have gone from 95 to 4k and it still only extrudes about 20mm instead of 100
E steps should be calculated not "calibrated". 1) Measure the extruder gear diameter On my ender3v2 the diameter was exactly 11mm 2) Calculate the perimeter of your extruder gear: Perimeter = Diameter of extruder gear * PI so 11*3.14... = 34.56 mm 3) Calculate the number of micro-steps per full rotation of the extruder motor: Typical nema 17 motor are 1.8°/step, so 360/1.8 = 200 steps per 360° of rotation. With the extruder driver microstepping set to 16, you get 200*16 = 3200 micro-steps / 360° 3) Finally get your correct e steps/mm: 3200/34.56 = 92.6 micro-steps/mm Once the correct steps/mm is set in firmware, if your printer doesn't extrude the correct amount of filament, check that your extruder gear is correctly centered on the motor shaft, and also check the extruder arm tension to make sure there's no slipping of the filament.
You don’t need to use code to change the e steps. They can be changed from the screen. On the screen that shows the e steps for the extruder press the know & change the e steps. Exit out & save the new settings
Mmm not really, you can't see the second decimal because it's either dismissed or rounded up... The stepper motors on the creality printers an also many others aren't that extremely precise
Nice video, but I tried the SD card method, and it would never register on the printer. The gcode would run, confirm ended, and no value change. I was able to manually do it on the screen following the rest of your method, though. Also, I got my printer back in December of 2021 and the stock transmission ratio E was set to 93.
You’re a workhorse dude, great videos. Question for you. What extruder amount would you call acceptable? I measured 99.65mm of filament extruded. Close enough or worth getting closer?
hey thanks very much. Im actually going to make a video on how i have started calibrating using a miligram scale. But to answer your question I would for sure try to get closer!
@@collect3d Ah yes that makes sense. Weight rather than length I assume. Would that be weight of the hot extrusion that comes out of the actual nozzle? I wonder if you could print a series of single lines, take them off the bed and weigh those? Like, print 100mm of filament but see the actual weight of what’s printed compared to the weight of a perfect 100mm length of fresh filament. Not sure that would work, just a thought. And yes, I did get closer, I made another comment on a different video of yours that I’m now like dead nuts 100 mm.
Why not change the e-steps direct with the screen. You show the e-steps 95. You can change the value there direct as far as i know. With my Ender 3 i can change it there. But keep up the tutorials, great to watch and learn.
At the end of the video I explain that you can change the value on the screen and skip the step of making the gcode file, but you can only change .1 at a time. With gcode you can change .01
Simple: not every printer ships with those options enabled in the menu. Loading a file with the gcode commands lets you configure the steps even when you can't use the menu or access the printer over USB or a network interface. Although in that particular extreme example, you might want to set them to a known value before you first test, since you won't be able to retrieve the set value.
I put in the new esteps but it won't stick. My board just shows me the existing esteps. My printer board seems to be locked. Does that make any sense? Thank you for any help.
@@collect3d Yes. I followed your step-by-step method. I inserted the chip, printed it, confirmed, went to save-config, saw the words 'Saved Settings' and got a beep. Yet the LCD still shows my esteps as unchanged. And doing a test extrude confirms that nothing happened. I have two V2s and they both do the same thing. There must be something in my firmware. I'll check with TH3D.com. I'm using their firmware.
I got it worked out. I can make the adjustments through my LCD. Just can't do them with M92 on the SDcard or through Pronterface . I can live with that.
Can I still apply this to my ender 3 pro? and can you make a guide in the same format for flow thanks man i subbed because your style is way more interesting than some other youtubers like chep which is all unnecessary shit
Hey my friend it should work exactly the same. But the menu items might be different since the screen is different. But the process should all be the same.
@@collect3d thank you, this helped alot. But one more question, how much of a tolerance do you allow ? My prints are roughly 99.05 or close enough to 100mm but how much of a tolerance is ok.
