This channel is all about running and managing an Ender 3 v2 Print Farm. I will share my experiences with the daily workflows of running the farm, the type of products you can sell, where to sell them, and just my overall opinion on the 3D Printing hobby and how it can make you extra income doing what you love!
@@collect3d I like your content and it is very useful and informative. So you have doubled the speed for your E3s and bumped up the acceleration. Guess, you found that these speeds for you have kept the quality that you desired and higher settings fail short. Do you have you auto eject system out there? Maybe you should post it for a fee ?
@@collect3d Could I ask at what percent do you run the rear fans (during and after print) to avoid pulling all the heated chamber air out and over taking the heater? When I use during/after print settings in Orca - the fans starts for like.. 3secs and then stops... only happens on ASA (I don't print on ABS). Thanks in advance.
Hello, I need some help. I am new to 3d printing and i printed this 100mm calibration print, and it in fact showed that I had some issues (i get 99.5, 99.6 ...) but i don't what to adjust, what settings should i change in my printer or in the slicer ? Thanks
Pardon my ignorance, but would auto belt tension arm work. A toothed belt does not need to be that tight it just need to mesh correctly at the idles end and drive end.
Can you provide feedback on your auto eject system? Converting my empty 3000 sq ft warehouse to 3d print farm and looking for something that will auto eject. Appreciate all your content.
this doesnt make sense as gravity and weight of gantry keeps screwteeth engaded. Only posible case when this is true would be when you lay gantry weight on the printbed , and that should NOT happed at all. (but propably that happened when you had put your measuring tool against the printbed)
Thanks for the knowledge sharing. Just getting started with CR-10 SE Could you please share some of your mods on your setup; How did you mod/setup the Spool holder? Did you modded the cooling fan?
should be a much easier way, i have an ender v1 and after an auto zero if you move z plus 0.02 you should hear the limit switch close and then move it back to zero and you hear it open
I feel obliged to point out that if you encounter binding on any axis, check the eccentric nuts. I underestimated their influence once, and after a minor adjustment, my X-gantry rolls a LOT smoother, with all six wheels making contact. Sometimes, taking it all apart and properly and carefully reassembling it does help!
I just updated the slicer to Creality Print 5.1 after replacing the hot end on my K1 (the old one failed because one of the ceramic heater wires detached from the contact pad of the heater element that's fused to the ceramic cylinder of the hot end. I think the wires must be welded on to cope with the 320+ degrees C temperature rating). My first print was more than 1% undersize on the X & Y axis. Then I did another print (sliced with a slightly different profile) that was almost spot-on dimensionally. Is there no way to calibrate the X & Y e-steps?
Theoretically, you could test this by z hopping mid print and if you get bad prints then you can assume it is this, correct? This is the first time I'm hearing of this after trying to get rid of elephant foot after not printing for a while, this would be more prevalent and known about I would think if it's a common issue?
If you take the back cover off the q1 pro - you will find that the fumes are not really sent out the exhaust vent. The fumes are just dumped into the back space of the machine and end up coming out the power supply vent as well. So you need to add an internal duct to channel the chamber exhaust out the right vent. This will also keep your main board and power supply cooler.
Thank you for pointing this out, I removed the back panel and definitely need that duct you mentioned. I can also see a lot of gaps that could be sealed better.
It itself is made of ABS although there is a sturdy steel frame. ABS has a glass transition temperature of 105 °C. maybe 75- 80 chamber temp would be achievable without replacing the ABS panelling and other plastic components with higher temp alternatives but i think water-cooled motors and hot end might be required. I don't see much reason to extend the thermal head room 20 °C. Maybe QIDI will make a higher temp machine in the future for higher temp plastics.
Good info. I’m curious if the X1E can exhaust the fumes while keeping up the temp. But of course it’s so much more expensive. And do you need to run the fan at 100% speed? All you need to do is run it enough to create a negative pressure. I think it would be interesting to do some smoke tests with an automotive smoke machine and see how much it leaks at different fan percentages. Also if PETG is too shiny I wonder what the finish is with PCTG. I hear you can control the finish with temperature. Similar properties to PETG and ease of printing with low VOCs and no requirement for a heated chamber. I do love ABS though. Especially Bambu’s ABSGF. And ABS can be cheap so I think you’re going with the right method.
I have a 10" 1200cfm exhaust fan that also creates some negative pressure in my workshop, so I just run the printer exhaust at 100% just to be sure its getting good suction. I dont mind running it at 100%, may even get a more powerful fan just to make sure Im really getting all those fumes out.
It is for most things, but I personally don't like the shiny finish, and it can be brittle, I've tested with PETG before and it just didn't work out for me. Small features broke off easier than with pla or abs.
I do not, I've come to realize it's not necessary. A slow first layer increases your changes of having a successful first layer more than a flat plate.
It's been a very busy time for me I haven't focused on making any videos, been pretty busy running the print farm and spending time with family. Not sure when I'll make another video, but I'm aiming for towards the end of the year
Temperature issues across multiple printers, buy a lot of thermistors from farnell (and heatsink). Solder yourself and rebuild all heatbreak and heater units with thermal paste
Great video. Like the calibration print and how it avoids the over extrusion corners. Which 3d printer do you consider more repeatable than the Ender 3 and that we can afford? A thought for you. Why not have your calibration print in some smaller sizes like 20mm, 40mm so we can get the calib close then use your 100mm. Your print shows 3hrs in my Cura setup. Thanks
Thanks for the idea and the video. But it still lacks precision. I bought 3 dial gauges and printed the mount/cases of them and applied the same process as yours. There are a few problems you do: 1-) Putting the X-axis gauge onto the hotend cover is not constant because it is not tightly mounted, and this causes changes from corner to corner. 2-) Putting the X-axis gauge on and in front of the hotend lowers the precision at the back of the bed, because it cannot access to the very end of it. This causes a different between the front and the rear end prints. A bed-wide print becomes not consistent between front and rear edges. So you should not use on-hotend cover model. You should use on X-axis-bar model for X-axis calibration. There are such models.
@collect3d Hi, I have the same problem too. Did you find a way to resolve the problem ? Skew correction is helping a bit to get the measurements closer to each other, but they are still off by 0.4-0.5mm from the requested dimension.
Hello, why is this video not more listed on your channel? I can only open it up because I bookmarked it in my browser. Would be nice to hear from you :)
In my case, what I am doing is buying a few POM nuts and using the worn out Lead-screw upside down to use the Never-Used part of the Lead Screw because 99.99% of my prints concentrate on the lower part of the Z-Axis
