I'm very surprised that 3D printers don't have an electronic DRO system, so they can always know their position and wouldn't able to fail in many of the ways that 3d printers fail and/or at-least would know when they fail and pause the print instead of destroying it. For example, I had two very big problems with my Ender 3 and a couple smaller problems that caused out of spec prints. The first was that my lead screw bushing was out of spec, so no matter how much I tightened it, it would not stop the lead screw from spinning over time, so my parts would print slightly too small, but at varying levels (sometimes even as bad as 10%)... so I had to replace it after a lot of frustration... and then, at the very same time I had my gantry getting crooked and stuck. For the most part the parts would just come out short, because I would level the bed to match the slightly crooked gantry that I didn't notice was crooked... but it eventually got so bad I could see the parts were very crooked. In both of these cases I think a simple DRO would have warned me of the problems and saved a lot of time and frustration. It kind of sucks that once the hotend leaves home, there is no way for the printer to have any idea if it's off track unless it's so far off track it hits one of the limit switches. If the z=axis gets stuck for example, it will just keep reprinting the same layer over and over again, which will most likely destroy the filament at the extruder motor and clog the hotend from being too hot with no flow for so long.
My cr-10 v2 with a H2V2S running Klipper is everything I want as an amateur/hobby printer enthusiast. Resonance compensation is a night and day difference and the DD extruder is so much easier to tune than the stock bowden setup
I have 2 small creality printers, and none of these issues are present. All of these issues can be solved just by finetuning everything and placing the printer on a shock absorbing suface (my printers are placed on a large tiles with 3cm soft PU foam). A bit modded marlin and a stock firmware. Most of the finetuning is done from the slicer
Thanks. From my understanding and when inspecting a few prints under a microscope the VFA is caused by the X or Y-axis motor having inconsistent movement. So those vertical lines are when the motor moves slower causing more bulging in one segments and moving faster in the other causing thinner extrusion. That depends on the print speed as at different ones that inconsistent motion is lower and at others higher. Plus running motor current can be a factor. So to eliminate them we need higher quality stepper motors with lower rotation vibrations and find at what speeds they print the best. This is my understanding from other videos and limited testing of mine. :)
Maybe: A higher extrusion Resolution up to a certain degree (i'm currently moving to an orbiter 2 since it has more steps per mm 😊) Filament dryer ... Anyway i would be happy to see the effects of it 😊
Good to know that the best upgrade is relatively cheap :) One day I'll pull that Orange pi out of its box (bought explicitly to try Klipper) and actually try it. I did get rid of bowden on my printer some time ago and the biggest noticeable difference is the ease of swapping filaments, and the teeny tiny waste at the end of the roll or a sample, like 12x less than on Bowden.
Yaa, Klipper's pressure advance with the direct drive extruder is insane. My only suggestion for trying Klipper is to have a spare printer to learn. Because most likely it will take a while and the printer will be inoperable for that time.
@@PrintingPerspective Having only one printer has stopped most upgrades I might want, that's true. Namely fully belted Z :) I have a Linux admin at home so we probably could defeat Klipper sooner than later, and I think you can dual boot it with regular Marlin based firmware too? It's just it prints _fine_ ;)
Love this, the Y-axis upgrade solved the issue with flat spots on the wheels (albeit a bit closed off and expensive). My only real issues with this are the fan comments and hotend and board choices. The Spider V1 is around $50 due to, well, Creality licensing and whatnot, and at that point I'd use a CHC, maybe even the pro version, or a dragonfly from Phaetus. Most fans only draw up to 0.1 amps, so 1 amp for the fan ports is plenty. Also, 5020 fans are hard to find, and usually they can't reach the airflow of 5015s (no idea what brand of 5015 you were using for your tests). There is absolutely no reason to use a $50 Manta E3EZ except for the additional $30 CB1 module that BTT forces you to use (thankfully this is the only board where a CB1 is mandatory). An SKRat would do all of this for $40 cheaper. Don't get me wrong, you said that this was a bad idea in financial terms, but I think it might be a good idea to look around a BIT more for video like this. Not hating either, this is a genuinely good video besides what I just mentioned. Will still be subbing.
the absolute best upgrades for the Longer LK5 PRO on youtube really awesome video! (love the linear rails and extruder head design). I need to fix my extruder filament switch near the feed mechanism because the plastic wore down after 500hrs of printing(). I replaced part of it with all aluminum parts, but need to figure something out with mounting either the old filament (auto shut-off/pause for the filament sensor(switch)) or potentially designing a new housing. I also moved the original filament role holder and touchscreen to the very top of the unit instead of on the left side (makes for a smaller footprint on a table.) getting an lk5 pro for >$200 is totally worth it but the two weakest parts are these from what I've experienced was the filament switch and heatsink fan
I like the idea of replacing the stock hot end on the LK5 pro to an all metal hot end. I just cant find one anywhere that says it's compatible with the LK5 pro unless the one he has in the description is it. And how difficult is it to replace?
The bigtreetech skrat, a derivative of the skr3 for ratrig, has 3 amp fan ports with additional pwm control line and tachometer line. Ratrig sells their vcore printer now with a 4028 axial fan that draw up to nearly two amps. And if you have one fat chonky fan that needs more than one amp use a spare heater port. Basically all 5 driver boards have connections for 2 hotends like the manta e3 ez.
If you want speed but a VZBot kit. Core XYZ Voron like machine on steroids Completely open source, all linear rails, water cooled motor and top of the hotend. Saw one on here so 2000mm/a at 75mm/s volumetric flow rate. Also did 200000mm/a travel from corner to corner If you print at its top speeds. The stepper motors get to above 80V. It's the only printer on hear were the camera really can't catch how fast it's moving. Tay and the Goliath hot end is Same insane. Same price as an X1 minus the 40 hour plus assembly and parts you have to print yourself.
thanks, but you seems to miss part of the point, the price point especially. You solely focus on the technical improvement, unrelated to the cost of each individual upgrade. Which ones gets the best improvement/cost ratio ? how much for the whole upgrade ? It seems pretty expensive, i would say at least 2 to 3 times the price point of the printer ... shouldn't then we just switch to an other printer from scratch ?
I didn't miss that because neither the thumbnail neither the title mentioned the cost aspect. Instead because you didn't watch the whole video you missed that I said that all these upgrades doesn't make any sense cost wise and you should just get properly designed 3d printer in the first place. Manufacturers can source parts in bulk so much cheaper, but the problem that the most of them don't know anything about designing 3d printers or are driven only by the profit aspect. :)
Hey thanks for the Project and the files! I purchased everything and im currently mounting everything together. Please can you tell me how to mount / connect the Hotend to something stable? How is it connected to the "frame"? i really dont see anything in the video and in the Assembly pictures. I would love it so much if you or someone else reply. Its really frustrating, because i have every parts and cant assemble it :(
bit.ly/CustomLK5HE It is designed to be used with a custom metal plate part, but I also added a printable version of the plate. Just know that I don't recommend using the printed version as I am not sure how it will perform longevity-wise.
This is awesome! I went for it and built it. However, I'm having a problems with finding the firmware for the new offset for the BLtouch. Do you happen to have the firmware for the original motherboard(LGT_KIT_V1.0)?
Can this hotplate design for the rails be used with the stock dual blower setup? (I just purchased your hotbed design from PCBway) Thank you for your contribution! I'm planning to also do a dual z mod along with the x rails if possible.
Yes. It doesn't change anything apart the Y endstop (also the z endstop height). But you can adjust the Y endstop as it will be placed along the right side of the middle 2040 extrusion.
great upgrades you have done. i did the dual z belt single motor from kevinakasam for my ender 3 neo and a few other upgrades, also i intalled klipper on my printer and all is working fine just for the bed mesh seems acting weird, i do the screw tilt calculate and z offset before my bed mesh, when i start a print the profile is loaded but it's more smooth without any bed mesh, also my printer is matching 0.0 position bl touch offset is donne i don't know if you had problems with that or if you can help?
Can you share your printer.cfg file for klipper by any chance? I'm getting ready to install the manta M5P and I have a .cfg file but I would like to check my pin assignments and make sure that I have the directions correct.
Glad you liked it. Here you go, my current setup with E3EZ, nothing special - drive.google.com/drive/folders/1eGZ5DiIAf61gc2YBqbsCzCuTlkeJu1zS?usp=share_link
thanks for such an amazing video with print samples! will be considering some of the upgrades for my ender 3 v2. i have a few quick question - does linear rails need to be lubricated?
@@PrintingPerspective Not EP2 grease basically. I will be covering all types of linear motion components used in 3D printing(I kinda went down a rabbit hole on this one). For the long answer I will post my video as a response. If that is alright with you? Also I have a question. Do the POM nuts allow you to move the Z axis faster than a normal brass nut?
Sure, just know that youtube blocks links but I check those blocked comments once in a while. EP2 is just rating of pressure that lubricant can withstand as far as I know. On 3d printers loads are so low that it is not needed. But higher viscosity is nice on z axis rails. Less friction with pom nut, in theory should provide faster speeds, but it's still plain friction setup. Meaning higher impact on longevity with higher speeds.
Great video. I also have a lk5 pro. It's all stock minus the raspberry pi4 running klipper. I'm wanting to do a direct drive extruder setup but one thing I'm unsure of is when looking at nema motors I see voltage of 4 , 12 ect. What voltage stepper would be correct or does it matter ?
you basically contructed another printer, why then spend the money on this printer. i bought this printer for 350, and it have many issues, i definitely will go with Ender for my next one
The intro music? Are you listening to the video through headphones? Because that depends a lot. Please be more specific so I can better understand the problem you are having.
