it seems like maybe on a bed slinger you would be better off with feet that only move in the same dimension as the bed.

Any recent updates for any of these printers that have altered your opinions in any way? I know that QIDI fixed the build plate issue and some other issues like a better filament spool mount. Is the A5M still closed source? Any firmware updates from them that fix the issues you mentioned? Thanks

So I am really looking forward testing these settings. Im a little confused about one thing. Maybe someone can tell me. In order to profit from the inner/outer/inner setting you will need at least 3 wall loops right? Because the Bambu Profiles have a default of 2.

bro i cant understand you XD

Verry nice work! good and simple explanation and perfect that you can visualize the test results. It would be very interesting to see a comparison with the new Panda Revo hotend for P1. It is made in collaboration between E3D and BIQU. the build up of the nozzle seems identical as E3D you just tested. So is there a difference? I love the detail and effort you have put in to thies tests and the detailed graphic so we really can see the difference between the different hotends. A lot of people only test the flow rate but not the adhesion wich I find much more interesting. Good work!

What about 75mm fans?

(IMPORTANT UPDATE in VIDEO DESCRIPTION)? No, there is no Update in the description... LmAA

The always-on fan on my Ender 3 was noisy and driving me crazy, so I had to get a buck converter to lower the voltage going to that fan.

I'm surprised this isn't just the standard way to print. I'm new to 3D printing but just in my tinkering I discovered it. I was pleasantly surprised how much nicer Prince turned out.

We could fix all the problems with the AD5M Pro if they'd just let us.

Why dont do like intel pc standard in 25kHz ? That is not too difficult to build it with arduino Nano. See arduino forum "Arduino Uno 25kHz pwm" "johnwasser"

Молодцом!

Outer wallnis the best for precission

I think these feet are better at isolating the printer and table movement from each other - so the effect on print quality is, for the most part, going to be negligible. The advantages would be in noise isolation (for example, if your table rattles when the 3D printer is running), and also less likelihood of causing layer shifts and other artefacts if you for some reason bump the table. To actually be useful for reducing ringing, they would need to be movement dampers and not isolators; straight rubber or foam probably does a better job at this due to hysteresis. More hysteresis = more damping. I wonder how well memory foam would work for that?

I became an instant devotee of Outer Wall First a few months ago when I saw an article that discusses this. Then your video surfaced a while later. The results of OW First are amazing, delivering much cleaner print surfaces, but also with improved dimensional accuracy, which is important for so many practical prints.

I suppose it's completely subjective, but measuring noise level alone doesn't reflect the TONE of the noise. I am much more comfortable with the tone of a 4020 or 5015 fan than the screech of a 4010 fan.

I will try this.

This video is excellent and very thoughtfully produced. It delves into an important distinction that is often overlooked: the difference between the maximum flow a printer can output, the expected flow rate, and the flow rate at which the part will be dimensionally accurate and mechanically sound. The explanations are clear and detailed, making it easy to understand the complexities involved. The visual aids and examples provided effectively illustrate the points being made, helping viewers grasp the nuances of printer performance. One important recommendation for future videos: please slow down when you speak. You clearly have an in-depth understanding of the subject, but for the audience, it can be challenging to keep up with your rapid pace. SLOW DOWN, SLOW DOWN, SLOW DOWN, PLEASE. Overall, this video is a valuable resource for anyone interested in understanding printer flow rates and their impact on 3D printing performance. The Stefan’s Blobs test, for instance, demonstrates the maximum amount of plastic extruded for a requested flow but does not indicate the part's mechanical performance. Just because a printer can extrude a maximum amount of plastic does not mean the resulting part will be high-performing. Additionally, this test is static with limited pull on the material exiting the nozzle, which does not mimic real printing conditions. On the other hand, the material deposition test offers a more realistic representation of the actual material flow rate. The graph presented in the video clearly illustrates this point. Mechanical performance, as the video rightly points out, depends on numerous factors related to the material and its properties when melted, deposited, cooled, and various printing settings like retraction and temperature. These factors are too complex to be linked solely to the flow rate. The main goal in high-velocity printing is to support short processing times. Evaluating the flow rate as the ultimate indicator is a mistake because this is a multi-dimensional issue. To address this, I suggest using a process called "Design for Experiment" to identify key factors that ensure parts are produced quickly, efficiently, and retain their mechanical properties and appearance.

I don't know how people don't understand what it does. It just transfers vibrations to the "next" place. So if you have input shaper, now it needs to cancel vibrations that come from two different sources. One is the printer itself and the other is "backwave" vibrations that come as "echo" from feet back into printer. Those feet are just solving the problem of "oh no, my table is shaking". Best way to solve ringing is putting printer on sturdy surface and use input shaper. Point in vibration dampers in buildings isn't to completely stop building from moving, it is to "delay" waves so that the whole building is moving as one body, without having differential movement between floors themselves. And you can't use the same logic in printers. In 3d printers you have printer itself, moving head and table/floor under it. If you have sturdy surface under your printer, input shaper is just solving for differential movement between printer and printing head. It's like learning to juggle two balls by having someone constantly throwing you the third ball...

What if you do this to the Kobra 3

Surely the real test would to see print quality during an earth quake. Put your 3d printers on a washing machine during a spin cycle with and without the feet. That is where you would see the most difference 😂 Also they would reduce vibration to the surface they sit on so another test would be to try and hand write something on the same table during a speed benchy with and out feet 😂

I just recently built a homebrew cantilever for fun using ender 3 parts and a Bambu a1 mini bed. Fully tuned it with klipper. I get the waves like you showed but I plan on using it for quick prototypes of small parts so it’s fine for me. I like the small size of it and it was fun to make

So next question to test. If you go ow first can you then increase layer width without losing quality. Cuz if so you could do less walls at larger width and decrease print times too

Would you be able to test out both cnc aluminum vzhextrudort versions out?. There are also slanted and non slanted teeth versions. Comparing the VZHexturdort and VZHexturdort Plus and effects of the slanted and non slanted gears interrests me, could also try bearing as idler gear but that is alot of variables. The Plus version should have lower pushing force but if this is still enough for high flow hotends (enough meaning if you push more you get bad layer adhesion anyway) i can see the advantage of the bigger gear with your earlier video about big filament gears. Love the videos btw. Keep it up!.

Try aiming some airflow at the stepper, and adding a good (small) heatsink, it helped me with my quick prototype prints. With that change alone, I went from being limited to 120mm/s speed (760mm/s² accel, 0.35mm layers, 1.3mm wide lines) to being able to max out at 220mm/s speed (775mm/s² accel, 0.45mm layers, 1.5mm wide lines). As you might have guessed, I don't have a premium printer, just a lightly modified ender 3 I got for 120USD, and for those prototypes, I don't really need too much accuracy.

Thank you for doing this test!

I tried this a few times, but I just keep getting totally stringy prints. It's there stove other setting I might be overlooking that I need to mess with?

You sir are a true scientist, allowing the results to speak for themselves. However, I left the video confused about what I should buy for the best results. Can you just tell us what machine, what nozzle, and what flow rates get the best results? The video leaves it all up to me, but then again, I am not an expert, so might not make the best choices. I am considering buying a Bambu printer.

If you look at cnc mills and lathes none of them use anti vibration feet. They use mass as a damper as they weigh a ton.

I know it’s definitely been a while, but is it possible to do a more in depth video on the print head?

Hey could i create a dub of your channel in spanish???

*GREAT* test! Completely changed my thinking about the E3D HF hotend, thanks for sharing!

For relubrication avoid motor oil or any mineral oil in general. Use ATF hydraulic oil or silicone based oils instead. WD40 will ruin a bearing too.

Have you tested this hot end with a 60watt heater upgrade?

Great video

thank you for your scientific approach to it all

Honestly, i would be curious to see just how abrasive wood filament actually is. I was using it through cheap brass for a long time and didn't even know I wasn't supposed to. I have just never been convinced that a little dust of some cheap wood and cork is somehow worse than the PLA anyways. I'm sure they're not using Ash or African Blackwood in filament. Unfortunately I don't know that there's really a reference for something like that. Even the hardness scales are not exactly comparable between wood and metal or plastic. I mean what even is extra wear? Are we talking about changing a nozzle a roll early? A week? From my perspective it just kind of came out of nowhere and the community started telling everyone that wood will kill your nozzles.

So i watched and still dont know.... Whicvh nozzle is best then? Obsidian?

For cantilever printers it's better to leave square corner velocity and just pump up the acceleration as well. For my voron 0, 5 square corner velocity with 40k acceleration runs smoother than 20 square corner velocity with 25k acceleration

You are doing the community a great service. Thank you for making these types of videos :)

This reaffirms my suspicions, decoupling your printer from a reference plane (solid ground) to sink it's vibrations into, usually tends to push those vibrations to other axis arbitrarily. And that's even harder to cancel out. Tuned dampeners is really the only true answer, and they would be unique per mass, likely need to be integral to the frame and/or motor mount systems. The easiest solution by far is input shaping, then slowing things down more when you really don't want resonance artifacts.

The hulas seem to just be a misunderstanding. In an earthquake,the ground shakes and the rapid movements break the building. But on a printer, the printer itself shakes. If anything, the hula protects you printer from an earthquake, and it prevents shaking of your table. What you really need is effective damping and a way to dispose the energy from rapid motor acceleration.

usar los hula hula y esperar lo mejor jajajajajajaja igual intente hacer una base para mi ender s1, mejore un diseño que estaba gratis pero realmente parecían amortiguadores. jaja cuando iniciaba una impresión todo se movía como tus impresoras en tu video... haciendo peor la calidad! Al final la ingeniería para reducir las vibraciones es colocar una goma similar como la que viene por stock en los pies de la impresora para que pueda absorber completamente cualquier movimiento, como majin boo puede absorber cualquier golpe con su densidad del cuerpo gomoso. ahora imagínate un resorte o que aporte mas movimiento como los hula hula. empeorara!! termine colocando una esponja densa como la que viene de stock y funciono de maravilla, ya no vibra, al contrario absorbió aun mas movimiento

My understanding is that the point of vibration suppression is absorbing the vibration in a way so that the printer remains still. If the printer is moving, there is no point. Concrete slabs still the king imo.

I wonder how squash balls compare to hula feet

Has there been an opposite test done somewhere? like where people bolt down the crap of a 3d printer to concrete or something?

Been saying this for years, but this stupid designs like the brissfang exist and solve no problems. Stacking fans doesn’t do anything in this application…..

Would also like to see a comparison against cnc kitchens setup with the foam and tile.

I put my printer on squash balls. They come in different hardness/dampening values. It really helped to quiet down my printer because the wood shelf it's standing on acted like a subwoofer with the fans.