WATCH THE REVISED EDITION! I created a new version with no audio issues an updated tips at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LvGKfevdf_Q.html
This one ranks higher in search and recommendations, and who reads the comments before watching the video? Can't you add an overlay at the beginning of the video or something? This has been a frustrating experience overall.
I wish I could. RU-vid has removed the option to create overlays and it can be frustrating. I added a card (the little notification in the top right) immediate when the video starts but most people don't notice that either. I don't know a better way to get people over to the new video and most people are able to get through this video despite the painful audio. Sorry for any frustration!
1# Leveling the printing bed 2:40 2# Print on Glass 5:23 3# Make it Stick 8:00 4# Rafts brims and skirts 9:46 5# Understanding support 12:25 6# Octopi 15:18 7# Keeping an eye on things 16:38 8# Materials Matter 18:45 9# Have a little help from your friends 23:44 10# Ironing 25:18 11# Print profiles 26:50 12# Slicing matters 28:00 13# This is a hobby. Have fun with it 30:02
Hello Nils, excellent summary. Thank you! Allow me a hint for all PLA users: I do not use any glue or hairspray to improve attachment but I just clean the glass EVERY TIME before printing with pure alcohol out of a mini spray bottle and drying the surface with a paper towel. My settings: 210 degrees Celsius for the nozzle- and 70 C for the bed temperature. During cooling down after printing you will hear lots of click noise, indicating that the part is separating from the glass surface. The bottom of the finished print will be shiny like a glass surface!
Thanks, Roger. I'm about to buy my first 3D printer and PLA is most likely to be the first material I use to print with. I'm leaning towards a Tevo Tornado, or a Creality CR10s. Do you have any advice?
this is probably the best video for someone who just got a 3D printer and isn't used to having to figure out problems for themselves. I almost sent my first printer back and gave up but finally got the print to stick. of course i would've saved a lot of money. :).
Very helpful video man! Thanks! As for you microphone, you could try taping the mic to the inside of your shirt so it faces you mouth/chin. To skip the wireless issues, you could also wire the mic directly to you camera. Won’t be wireless anymore but you won’t have any signal issues. Also works fine for fixed shots like this video.
Hey Caleb, great input. I actually shoot with a wired mic 90% of the time but I completely lost it for a while and had to get this video out under the gun. I'm considering recording to a pocket recorder and syncing in post but I don't love the idea of the extra step. We'll see. I'm a big fan of your work and have been a subscriber for a while. Thanks for watching!
This video is probably the best beginner videos and most helpful I have seen. I've very little experience using 3d printers at school, and I have a friend who has taught me a lot about 3d printing. I plan to buy one in the next month or two and I've been doing a lot of preliminary reading, researching, data gathering but this video was by far what I needed to help me. thanks!
Just in case you are curious, the little Buddha is actually Hotei the Japanese avatar of the Buddha. Most people don't know that Buddha starved himself for a while and was never fat. It seems the fat avatar of Buddha is the most popular form of the avatar, at least in American culture.
Friendly tip: when using glue sticks, I use it on top of blue painters tape. And for clean-up, remember the glue is water soluble which means a few wet paper towels will be enough to nicely clean-up your bed.
Seriously.... I mean it's 2018, you can buy a wearable microphone, or bluetooth headset for like $20. I really hate RU-vidrs who want to be popular, but won't put in the few bucks it takes to have good audio.
It looks like he IS wearing a clip-on mic on his shirt collar. Even with the intermittent hum, the audio is SO much better than many YT channels where they pay no attention to audio. It is weird that the hum seems to increase when he brings his hands/arms up toward the microphone. Almost like a broken shield connection somewhere.
I don't even own a 3D printer (yet) but this video is a keeper! Clear, concise, informative, and delivered by someone who clearly knows what he's talking about - no reading of cue cards, auto-cue etc. *****
One big tip for people who are willing to pay buy a spring steel bed with sticker pei been replaceable every 4 or 5 months that only required you to get some ISP in between every few prints and removing prints requires no tools and magnetically sticks to the base easily, for levels just get a bl or cr touch makes life 10 times easier and you need no skirt or base for any prints very reliable with pei sticker
Wow! Niels (spelling), very in depth sharing on your experience. I really appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge with us. Just started my research on 3D printers and printing in general, so this video will definitely come in handy. Cheers and thanks!
thank you for the vid i started this hobbey only a month ago. i been having fun and recived alot of help not just from youtube vids but from a 3d print discord comunity.
I am just in the process of starting out with 3D printing - this is the second video I watch regarding 3D printing, and its much appreciated. A lot of really important information and facts in a short video! Many thanks!
Massive thanks for putting me on to OctoPi !!! Got it working today. Combined with the Octoprint Anywhere plugin not only can I watch and stop a print from anywhere easily but the control panel for Octoprint itself is great. It's easier to manually heat up the print head and to run G-code if I need to.
Aside from the obvious frustration caused by the audio (and subsequently finding out that you had fixed it) this is an excellent video. Thanks for sharing. (edit).... Who else stopped when they read tip #13 ;-) ... but seriously... well done mate, keep 'em coming.
On one of my 3d printer with glass I use the glue sticks and when it cools down I use a spray bottle with a little dish soap and water mix, spray on the glass the water softens the glue and it will wipe right up then after i wipe the soapy water I have a spray bottle of just water that I spray on to clean up any left over film, I like the elmers glue stick is because it lays down purple when the bed heats up it turns clean but when you spray soap water on it it turns purple again and you can see it all and makes it easy to clean
Never needed a raft but good to know. Brims on the other hand is a life saver. I like to make them about 2 to 3 mm wide on objects that have limited contact with the bed like a cylinders for and example. Skirt...? It only appears to clear out the nozzle. I have acupuncture needles to help with that. Aqua Net..... I use no scent. Those smells can get pretty potent! Use 97% isoprophyl alcohol to clean it off. Good video! thumbs up.
Don't know why people are getting steamed up about sound. It's easily understood and the odd buzz or two don't make it difficult to understand. It's not like it is a hi fi music video. However, good information and well narrated without a lot of pauses while the person making the video has to wait while he or she believes we need to catch up or their brain needs to catch up with their mouth. I'm not there yet as I am in the process of building my own machine as part of the whole hobby process but nice to know where I'm probably going to screw up.
But if the princesses out there can't complain about the sound, when the video content is good, and the information is helpful, what else will they be able to complain about? ;) Agreed, it was excellent content. Since getting my CR-10 2 months ago, I'd fudged my way through most of these points, but would have been so much easier if I'd known about many before I started. Regardless of the audio, it was easy to view and understand. Keep them coming. But for all the apparent audiophiles out there, I guess some folk need to take a teaspoon of concrete and harden the hell up. Great video. Thanks. :)
@@rockowallaby9841 Look I dont want to have a headache when I am watching something, Plus it shows how he didn't really watch his own video to know what to fix, before publishing.
@@drwhite7285 If you got a headache from this, you will really hate doing most DIY projects. Besides, our world is really loud with 60hz hum already. Just go out and listen sometime when the power fails.
There is a difference between supports and infill which can have different effects on cooling and warping. Supports are removable and are only to support angles and overhang. Infill is an internal structure used to provide strength and support while allowing the object to remain relatively hollow, it is not removable.
‘t was a great vid. Condensed info and pretty much vital. I’ve an i3 clone for a few months now. First machine. Been through all except the ironing :-) Never seen that. Still many parameters to test if expecting reliable results. Like you, my interests but tending to outdoors, ropes... , metals, welding, machining, fixing - everything that goes wrong, wood, from forest to anything, food... The i3 doesn’t get much time and I’m no for only learning printing but for practical functioning gear - Take the hobby approach - Another, possibly the best of your tips - your friend senses the potential recycling frustrations and walks the path of calm and enjoyment in gentle continuous engagement. A lovely video - no ‘settings’ but well understood considering the validity of many sensors readings. I do print PLA from aprinta at 200 and start the bed at70 reducing to 50 later. I’ve had few duds from the beginning though there have been failures and some more prints cancelled within the first layers, and good ones by the careful use of finger, spatula and whatever to fix an otherwise restart. Ended well. Not needed anymore - big grin cause I know to watch out now and when. How about fire hasard. You leave yours unattended. How safe do you feel this is in case of a print misfunction etc... I’ll get that octopr whatever, Ikll check what you called it on the r pie. Neat. Nice sharing with you. Carry the ‘hobby’ attributes with you in other aspects of life.....
Best to print phone cases with back on the bed, no support required and back will be as smooth as the bed. Do not waste filament on unnecessary support. Use glue stick(PVA glue) with TPU to prevent print sticking too well on a PEI surface.
Typically I would, but this one had an 8-bit Mario design on the back that was pretty thin and embossed, so it was suggested that this one be printed upside down so that the supports didn't ruin the back of the design on the case.
Yeah, I would totally recommend auto bed leveling to anyone with a 3D printer, either get a printer which already has it, or install an inductive/capacitive sensor (depending on the material your print bed is made of). Not only do you not have to level the bed manually, you also don't have to worry to much about slightly uneven surfaces, since it'll just follow the curvature of the surface (of course you still need a flat build plate if you want your prints to be flat on the bottom). I personally an aluminum build plate with blue tape on it and if you have your first layer hight set right, PLA and ABS stick without a problem every time without damaging the tape during removal. You can also set your slicer to retract a couple of mm at the end of each print and extrude a couple of mm at the beginning of each print, this prevents oozing before prints, which can screw up your first layer a little. I would also definitely use a skirt to insure the the nozzle is primed before printing the actual first layer, you can also use a brim which also helps prevent warping when printing with ABS. With all that set up correctly, my 200 dollar printer is reliable enough, for me to leave while it's still heating up for a print and come back when it's done and it'll print flawlessly without any intervention whatsoever. Of course I would still recommend to check on the printer every now and then if you can, especially during the first layer(s), just to be sure. But you normally don't have to if have your printer is set up just right.
Hey Nils! Love the video. 3D printing is definitely something that is super cool. Just as a heads up...your audio starts off great and then just slowly gets worse. Especially around 23:30 all the way until the end. Just as an FYI while view count is low if you want to redo or edit.
Thanks for the heads up. Yeah, I made the mistake of using my wireless mic which, while it costs about $130, is still junk. I had to get this video out on a deadline and don't I'm not going to be home for several days so hopefully it's intelligible at least.
Audacity has a pretty effective noise removal tool. You would probably still have high frequency harmonics, but it'd be less distracting than the FM radio hiss.
As a sound person I can say that it's would be a bear to "clean up" this audio. It's not hiss, he is picking up AC buzz and it has something to do with proximity so it comes and goes. That and a vacuum cleaner? at one point?? Good content but D- on sound. BTW $130 for wireless is extremely low cost. Lowest price "good" quality will run you around $600. For this kind of shoot wireless is really not a great Idea. Your not moving around so just go wired and avoid issues. Also it's not "intelligibility" that will be the issue. This kind of noise is really irritating to many people and they just won't stick it out.
14# Heated chamber - i.e. built a clear box with heated element with thermostatic controls covering the whole machine. Consistent air temperature = consistent print, higher speed and better quality. 15# enclosed spool chamber - moisture affects filament during print especially when using ABS
Tevo Tornados has a single phase solid state relay that sends mains voltage to heatbed, uses single layer insulated wires and is not grounded. So yeah... that may have something to do with this.
God damn it this is a great video. So much good information, not just about 3d printers but lots of adjacent things. Thank you for taking the time to make this video 😎
1. When buying a cheap 3D Printer expect to do some upgrades. 2. Expect to learn about Bed Leveling or Tramming. 3. Autoleveling can help but it can't fix a badly setup printer. 4. Don't use rafts. They waste plastic. That means you didn't put effort into learning about using supports. Use skirts for priming the hot end before printing. 5. You can use hairspray instead of glue sticks and have a less mess experience. 6. Use PEI for a bed surface. 7. Hatchbox sucks. Quality can vary by color just like with other filaments. 8. Don't switch filaments without cleaning out your hot end. 9. Read the Manual for your Slicer. Cura and Slic3r are free. 10 Watch all the videos for the printer you are buying. 11. Watch videos from Thomas Sanladerer and people that have been printing for more than a couple of years. 12. Join the Facebook Group for the Printer you choose to purchase for support. 13. All 3D Printer manufacturers do not have the same support. Expect less support when buying overseas. 14. Buy spare parts. Stuff breaks. 15. Do not leave your 3D printer unattended. You can burn your house down. 16. Don't buy a 3D printer if you don't like learning or putting hands on hardware or if you do not like reading. They aren't automatic and the results will vary depending on the user and how much effort they put into actually learning 3D printing. It's not just a Hobby.
Masha Allah, thank you very much for this video, fantastic timing buddy, I’ve planning to get a printer for some time, very helpful for me and those who just got a printer and having problems doing that first print. Masha Allah Octopi is cool. Thank you ... subbed 😊
Great video. I recently bought a Monoprice Maker Select 3d printer V2 but I'm so intimidated I haven't even taken it out of the box (and my 1 month window for return has closed). This video helped explain a lot.
Overall a nice Video, but two NoGos: - Don't use spray on a fixed bed, it will will go on your rails, belts, bearings, etc... Gluestick can be spread with alcohol/water evenly on the bed btw - Don't let your printer run when you're not at home A tip: Play with the extrusion width setting. Most people think that the extrusion width is determined by the nozzle size, but that is not true. You can have extrusion width set twice or three times as wide as the nozzle diameter and speed up printing this way. It also affects the look of the surfaces.
@Isaac Schmitz Because these machines have really really bad / no safety precautions but carry moving high temperature / high current parts. E.g. if the strain relief on the heatbed is not done properly, the solder joint that is permanently under stress may come lose and short out, resulting in plenty of heatbed cable starting to burn in worst case. Also, check your insurance policy. Most insurance won't pay in case of fire if it was caused by running machines with more than one moving actuator unattended.
Can you explain what you mean by extrusion width? I couldn't find that setting in Cura but I'm guessing I'm looking in the wrong place. I'm confused at how a 0.4mm opening could produce anything wider than 0.4mm. Thanks!
Why would you be confused? It is very challenging for a 0.4mm nozzle to create an extrusion that is actually only 0.4mm wide. Because the filament gets squished down on the previous layer, it also expands in all directions. If you increase the filament flow, then the track gets wider. I don't use cura, but Slic3r has extrusion width setting in the advanced options ( manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/extrusion-width ) ... I have a 0.25mm nozzle. I usually print with 0.4 or 0.5mm extrusion with. Sometimes I use up to 1mm. Especially if you print vases with only one perimeter, it is handy if you know how to change the extrusion with.
Ok. Don't let the printer run when you're not at home. So, for a print that would normally take 3 days you have to stay at home and awake? Or can you stop the print and restart it the next day?
Just want to share my recent discovery: using plexiglass as a printing bed (cold) works great with PLA. The material sticks really well, is reasonably easy to remove and leaves a nice glossy finish. Does not require any additional substance such as glue of hairspray. I’ve done more than a dozen prints now on this piece of 3mm plexiglass and the adhesion does not seem to reduce. I have not tried any other types of filament yet.
I forgot about the audio quick….but the information and everything was spot on. I just purchased a printer(Ulitmaker 3) and was getting frustrated with the learning curve…but after listening to you I feel more focused and not as intimated by the printer(hate that). You showed me the learning curve is there and no big deal…I dealt with the same using Blender for the first time …thanks.
1. Print bed levelling 2. Print on glass 3. Make the bed sticky (using Aqua net hair spray/glue sticks, also masking tape will allow better adhesion) 4. Rafts brims and skirts, skirts used for clearing out end, brims used for more surface area for adhesion (recommended for most prints, used for less than half of bed), rafts used for a solid surface (buffer between bed and print used for when print covers more than half of bed) 5. Understanding support (use when there are over hangs on a piece so the print doesnt fail) 6. Octopi (using raspberry pi for wireless 3d prints, remote access and study the progess of the print ) 7. Keeping an eye on things (use a Web cam or the raspberry pi camera bought online ) 8. Materials matter (depending on what materials you can choose it matters, PlA works extremely well, go with known brands) 9. 10.
I used to print directly on glass but I do a lot of ABS printing and found that ABS would eventually take large chunks out of my Robo 3D R1+ glass because it adhered to my bed too well using ABS slurry. A few years ago (3 glass beds later) I switched to PEI and I have never went back to bare glass. I no longer need ABS slurry, glue sticks, hairspray, tape, or anything. I threw it all away. PLA, ABS or any other plastic adheres to the PEI perfectly and it sometimes even pops parts off on their own when the bed cools when using a heated bed. Since then I have made a bunch of RepRap printers and the first thing I do to the sheet of glass is add a layer of PEI. I just ordered a FlashForge Guider II. I don't know what type of bed it comes with. It will be here on Monday. I also ordered a sheet of PEI just in case I don't like the printing surface of the Guider II. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XLD5QH/
I'm going to give the PEI a go and see what I think. Since making this video I have ditched the hairspray. As long as you keep the mirror clean, it doesn't need anything else for prints to stick to it and it's a lot easier to do that way - less mess. That said, I'm always game for something more capable.
One more tip. After installing the PEI with the included adhesive sheet, take some fine sandpaper and sand down the exposed side of PEI. This allows the molten filament to bond better with the scratched up surface. Keep the PEI clean by wiping it with alcohol.
Hi there, I bought my Creality CR-10S almost a year ago and also struggled with ABS in the beginning. Recently I gave it another try (with ABS being a lot cheaper than PLA here in South Africa) and this time around I had great success printing with it. Here are a few important things I've dealt with: 1. Cura uses a default hotend setting of 230 degrees, I chased it up to 240 degrees C and that was probably the single most important change I made. 2. Bed temperature of 90 degrees C. 3. For a strong bed adhesion on glass I use a clear lacquer spray (that kind with the little metal ball inside the can). It makes the ABS stick really well but will not damage the glass if you allow your print to cool down slowly at normal room temperature. Initially I used to put the hot glass plate straight into the fridge and the thermal shock took out small pieces of glass. It looks like you might have to experiment with a lower print temperature of, say, 230 degrees C on your first layer to make prints come off easier later on. 4. Print with a brim. 5. I reduced my line width to 0.35 mm from the default setting of 0.4 mm (the width of my nozzle). This very likely results in the plastic being squished together better. 6. I also reduced my printing speed from 60 to 50 mm/s. 7. The CR-10 (and similar models) is an open-frame machine but I've found that throwing a bed sheet over it also works very fine to maintain a steady heat environment for the printing bed. 8. I've printed with a smaller layer height so far (around 0.08 to 0.16 mm) and have not had any layer separation yet, though I still have to experiment with larger layer heights. :)
I wish I had scrolled down before watching the poor audio version but as I'm considering buying my first 3d printer I found the video very useful and it answered some of the questions I had after watching other videos. Thanks.
lol, had to rewind. I thought he said "... Just takes a couple minutes. And you don't have to do it every time, just when things start to get out of whack which happens all the time."
Automatic bed levelers do not level the bed. They simply insert position compensation for the Z-axis. While they compensate for an unlevel bed in a way that allows a good first layer, it doesn’t tilt the whole part to compensate - it makes up for it little by little in layer thickness adjustment. Which ultimately, if your bed has a significant error, all your parts will now mirror this error on their bottom surface. That may be fine for artistic pieces, but for anything requiring any precision, level your machine itself, then level your gantry, then level your bed, then fine-tune your bed to the actual nozzle.
Purchase paralyzed. Continuing to search for the printer that creates things when I need them. Want the use to match any other tools I purchase for whatever purpose they serve. The headache of constanting adjusting or fixing the printer is a show stopper. There must be a company selling a printer matching up with these requirements. After all, I don't buy a tool to be fixing, tweaking or adjusting taking more time then it takes to use the tools for its intended purpose. Your helpful tips and experiecne was apprciated thank you.
I agree, why isnt there something that does 3d drawing, slicing, tells you where you need support, then prints the object, all in one...? Seems like the reason everyone has so much trouble is there are too many things to adjust. Remember when people realized Mac computers worked better because the user couldn’t “tweak” it into conflict with itself...
For your height calibration I'd advice getting a feeler gage. This allows you to know pretty precisely HOW high you have set your nozzle, and not just that it is uniform. Paper can have many different thicknesses, different enough that your settings may fail the second time when you level with a different paper. As for the glass: Glass is actually not good at getting an even temperature. Glass have very low heat conductivity. Aluminum is a near ideal bed material, just make sure it is milled flat and thick enough to avoid warping (4-6mm should be enough). Get aluminum tooling plate or MIC6 if you are in the US. Aluminum also work with inductive bed probes. The only negative with aluminum is that printing directly on it is not advisable. However that segways nicely into my third suggestion: Use a PEI sheet. With PEI you can print PLA, ABS, PETG and lots of other materials with no need to use hairspray, glue or dissolved ABS. B.t.w.: Buyer beware, unscrupulous aliexpress/ebay sellers are selling phony PEI (I.e. not actually PEI), get yours from a reputable seller.
Just starting out with 3D printing and found this video really informative and also mentally supportive - “remember its a hobby” is a useful mindset to have. Thank you.
I find that the optimal printing temperature for PLA varies quite a bit by brand and even by colour in the same brand I have had white PLA still jam at 215c and I have had black PLA that was still a bit too hot at 195c. I find getting the filament to extrude at the lowest temperature that you can (that doesn't jam the extruder at all) is best for me. The layers still bond nicely but you can bridge bigger gaps and have more exteem overhangs without supports. It also warps less while printing and there is less shrinkage in the final part.
Its is a special plastic sheet that is used as a build surface. I used this one and cut it down to size, but they have other size options www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XF3NGP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hello, First of all, I would like to express my compliments for how well you explain things, and this video is just FANTASTIC. KUDOS. 1.I am looking to buy a 3d printer- cnc machine, 2- in one. If you have any suggestions on which one I SHOULD BUY? 2.are you familiar with polyjet 3d printers? I watched several videos and looked up a company that makes these types of printers. The printing quality is FARRR superior than any other printers, but they are so expensive. 3.Do you have any experience with polyjet printers? 4. Can pla, abs printers make embossing plates? you know like metal embossing plates, but made in plastic. Thank you.
I'm a bit confused about your advice on using rafts. If the print is that large and has a large flat area on the bottom, like the example you showed, it should have sufficient surface area to stay secure. My understanding is rafts are generally used when your build surface is not level or you are printing an uneven form, not because your print is large. If you have a large print that doesn't have a large surface area, but is still flat, for the first layer, you could use a generous brim instead, giving you a smooth surface and wasting less material. Am I missing something in my analysis?
Your logic makes sense to me. In reading up on rafts, I found the general advice given in the video but I feel like I still have more to learn about when to use and not use a raft. It's something I'm going to have to continue learning about. For the most part, I use a brim for just about everything and it's been working well for me.
Fern, most of his advice is not good.. he seems to have very limited experience and knowledge about the subject.. If your a beginner, i would find a better source to learn from cause this is like watching a bad video from 2013
invest in a isolation transformer for xlr mic cables. Works as long as you DONT have to pass phantom power along that cable, will eliminate any hum in audio lines.
I'd like to see people come up with useful "things" suggestions Videos, not so much re-invention of existing wheels, and not so much things I can buy at dollar tree. I get fabricating parts, that you can use to fix something else, like the guy who printed a gear for his "salad chopper" rather than waiting to get one in the mail and then paying $15.00 for the part when the chopper costs $25... I recently converted my GreenStalk Soil based Tower over to a Hydro unit. I found only one source for the 3/8" round by 1/2" tubes needed for each of the drain openings..and they wanted .80 cents each + 10 shipping..I needed 30. I was able to fabricate exactly what I needed in less than hour using Tinkercad..rofl..and printed them out in 2 hours.. It would have cost me $30 + and 3 to 5 days shipping. Because I teach hydroponics and other related topics.. I'm able to provide other GreenStalk Owners with those parts for way less than the one source, still make a little money, and they get the parts to them that day. I'd love to hear what others are doing !
I'm about to buy a Creality Ender 3 too. How are you getting on on with it? Seem worth the money? Level of difficulty starting off? Settings to attend to?
Looks like you need to tune acceleration or slow down your prints. There was a lot of ringing on that ukulele. Got a peek at your 3DR solo backpack down there :-)
Yeah, I'll have to look into that. I actually have my settings slowed down and messed with the jerk as well but I may need to take it a step further. I actually printed a full sized functional ukulele since doing this video and it came out really nice. Amazing what you can do with these things!
I recently purchased a 3D printer from Aldi stores ( $199 Creates mini) very basic small print bed with no heated bed single extrude. I have found printing at home with the ceiling fans on in the house (temp 31C) this was causing problems with the adhesion of the first layer on the build plate. Over a few trials I realized that the air temp and humidity can play havoc with adhesion. The filament (PLA) was cooling before it could stick to the build plate. I made up a small laminate and timber cabinet with a perspex door, I can now place a lamp in the cabinet with the 3D printer to help maintain the temp and humidity this should assist with the adhesion issues. If you can reduce these external factors then you should have more success with your 3D prints.
FEW TIPS FOR YOU AND ANY VIEWERS (i use default settings so this might be helpful for beginners) -i use the "flashforge finder" and over the glass surface is a thin sheet which im assuming acts like painters tape/masking tape. it helps keep the model to the surface however it does need to be replaced one in a while. you'll know when it needs replacing when even small models begin to warp constantly -to help stick the model to the surface, i use glue sticks, ive NEVER had to scratch it off, it can be washed off HOWEVER i dont like prints going longer that 9 or so hours, so if you did a 24+ hours i dont know if you can still wash the glue off or not -keep prints short if possible. this is more a personal preference but if the prints are short and a problem happens, its less time and materials wasted -to get the prints off the surface, i use a cheap dull stanley blade (the long ones). not sharp enough to cut the thin sheet i mentioned earlier and its thin enough to slide under the model with ease -for prints bigger than 10cms, i noticed they are more likely to warp however putting glue on the surface, wait 5 mins, then put another layer on help it stick (havent had a problem yet). it is harder to get the model off but not impossible with patience -assuming you put enough supports on your model before printing but this is more like a back up plan. if you are keeping an eye on the print and you notice the supports are starting to wobble, there is a good change that the supports could break. if this happens what i do is pause the print, get a 3d pen and reinforce the supports. -most important of all, if a print is finished and there are a few problems with it, warping etc, before throwing it away ask yourself can you salvage it. ive made a few models that didnt print how i wanted them to but no one can tell in the final build
*Pro Tip:* Glue sticks can be easily cleaned off glass build surface with Windex and a paper towel while the heat bed is warm. *Process:* *Step 1.* While the heat bed is warming for a print, spray 3 - 5 squirts of Windex into a soft paper towel (Automotive shop towels work great!) and wipe up the used glue stick residue from the previous print. *Step 2.* Reapply glue stick on the area where the print will land. _It is only necessary to provide glue in the area where the print will actually come into contact with the build surface._ This method works *EVERY* time for all materials I've used and provides an very consistent printing surface with little to no mess and gives you something to do while waiting for the heat bed to heat. This also prevents buildup of adhesive which cans distort prints.
In ref to #3 make it stick, I would really recommend the water based tack spray made for screen printing. gives decent hold, easy to work with, but it isnt over the top as far as adhesion goes. Also called Pallet adhesive/spray or MIST. usually very large can for under $10
LRN2DIY I wish they could print anything, too. Maybe one day? Thanks for the tips and effort to make a video to help us. I'm a newbie. Getting my first printer on Monday.
The Tevo is basically the exact same thing as the Creality CR-10 and the Hictop version of the CR-10 (3DP-20). Even the software on the machines is the exact same. They just put their logo on it. But it's an AWESOME printer!
Now I have the money but have no time to pursue hobbies. Life was more interesting as a struggling young person. Watching others videos has now become my hobby! Sad. Great demonstration! Thanks.
Oh man, that hum and buzzing is killing me... how about a low-cut filter on your sound file?? But ultimately, get rid of that ground loop you probably have somewhere.
Leveling the print bed... Reading on forums and everywhere, most of the people does not realise that at Z=0 the nozzle should touch the bed! It does not matter that your paper or feeler gauge is 0.05 or 0.2mm thick, but you should know that measurement exactly. The proper way for adjusting Z offset is to move Z to the thickness of the paper, then adjust the bed screws to touch the paper. Interesting, but many people does not know that moving Z should have to be done IN THE MENU. Not turning the leadscrew by hand!!! The indicated Z position on the screen should be the paper thickness! Obviously raise Z when moving between corners, and ensure that the nozzle will not hit the bed when you lower to Z=clearance position. (lower gradually and turn the screws as needed)
14. The importance of keeping your filament dry - can make a dramatic difference to print quality and even part strength if your filament is dry. If the filament pops and hisses as it goes through the hot end, it means it is damp. This is especially important for TPU, PETG and Nylon.
Glass is good but should use heat treated glass or it will crack all the time due to thermal shock. Also best adhesive for glass is circuit board laquer you don't need much. it Works better then hairspray tape or glue.
This video has some good content and information, however I find the video to be edited very poorly. the background music became very distracting after i noticed the random buzzing throughout the video. The random sound effects (for example the subscribe popup during mid speech) also did not help.
Hello, I know this is a fairly older video so I was hoping that you have had even more experience since filming this video! I have watched this a few times now! I was all in ready to spend money on a glowforge and finance that thing but told myself hold up! Lol! I am trying to really understand differences between 3d printers and the glowforge! Let me start by giving you a bit of background of things I would like to accomplish. Currently I own a silhouette 4, a Cricut Maker and a small Circut Joy. These do allow me to do some limited cutting of many materials and each machine has its own differences and thicknesses as well. BUT! I need to take my art to the next level and be able to cut and laser engrave acrylic to make molds for resin casting, I need to cut wood shapes in fine details like mandalas for ornamental decor, amongst 3D printing so create molds for resin castings! I did see this snap maker however the printing volume is literally so small I would lose my small amount of customers It’s a 4.9x4.9x4.9 I need every bit of help from someone with knowledge because honestly I have spent so much time researching and I am disabled and have seizures so for me sitting in front of a computer trying to figure this out isn’t doing me any bit of help and I keep coming back to your video and I thought to myself maybe you would be kind enough to help me find something that is reasonably priced and I would be able to get fairly quickly! Best Christine
Hi there, I suppose this all depends on if you need a 3D Printer or not. If yes, you can go with the Snapmaker 2, which can go up to about 12x12”. It’s pricey though. If you’re more about just cutting, hop on eBay and look at laser cutters that are between 30 and 100 watts and are in the $500 - $1000 price range. Printers by themselves start at around $150 or so and get into the thousands. So really you’ll want to cater to where you really want to focus.
This was a great video. I purchased a 3D printer - and I'm still waiting for it to come in the mail so this was a great intro video to watch. Thanks for putting this together!
I’ve been into 3D printing for a bit over a month now, since I started printing on glass I will never do any other method again. What I don’t understand are the glue stick and hairspray recommendations when the only thing you need to do is to wash the glass with some “washing up liquid” the type you use to do your dishes, so mix that with some water in a spray bottle, spray the glass surface properly (use a brush if you want to, I did not), rinse under some hot running water, dry it off. Whatever you do, do not touch the glass with your greasy fingers or you have to repeat the process. Your prints will stick perfectly while being easily removable, no more hairspray, glue or other sticky and messy stuff. :-)
If you are buying a 3D printer kit, take your time assembling everything, make sure everything is square and in line, and make sure all the screws are sufficiently tight. If you have a pre assembled one, go over it and make sure everything is actually ready to go, and that there are no loose bolts or anything.
I have a $200 Monoprint..it's my first 3D printer..I've had awesome success right out of the box with no issues, but one complaint. You absolutely have to use blue tape or replace with glass surface. Tape is only a partial/temp solution, however. I wish Monoprint would offer this or a glass like surface on the bed from the factory. The surface it comes with is incredibly difficult to get parts off of. One tip.. do remove the filament line immediately when your print job is finished..DONT LEAVE IT IN THE FEED TUBE! You will find you'll have far less nozzel clog issues. .. I'm very new at this, and certainly far from expert, but I'm already making a few dollars with a starter printer.
