Hi Thomas, ive just bought a mini im very excited about it arriving. Youve enabled normal people to gain access to a professional level of quality with/in this fantastic technology. you deserve much success and i hope you get it. ps I was going to ask what the aerosol spray was, but of course the answer is in the comments lol
@@openscan_eu Do you happen to remember “kinnikuman” or M.U.S.C.L.E. figures? They’re small pink figures from the 1980s. Or maybe a Kenner Star Wars Jawa figure. Or a He-Man head. 😂 I’m actually interested in copying old plastic model kits by photogrammetry, but not sure it would work. 😅
Honestly, its pretty sad to say but it seems to produce a better result than the mini 2 too. I got a mini 2 for mini scanning and..well...this open source option is SO much better than revopoint's toy.
Why not make it out of green screen background colour pla, record it with a green screen behind the machine and use software to take out the background. Very impressive kit.
The software kinda ignores the background as the depth of field is very shallow and thus the background becomes blurry. I have done a lot of testing with different backgrounds and as long as the object is feature-rich and the background is blurry, this works totally fine
Would be really cool for scanning traditional sculpts and digitizing them for 3d printing thou I think they would need to be of a bigger size to provide a sufficient detail once scaled down to 28mm.
Thanks! The OpenScan Classic is basically a scaled up version, which also allows the usage of DSLR cameras (for improved quality). But it should also be possible to scale this scanner up (and modify only the mounting holes for the motors, camera and control unit). Note, that you are probably looking at a 50cm+ ring which would either require a huge printer or a redesign to use a multi-part ring.
I'm very interested in this, but have some questions. Would this be suitable for scanning 28mm size or smaller fine detailed miniatures, will it pick up the fine details? Also can separate parts like arms and weaponry be scanned separately and then added to the final 3d model and finally does the miniature substrate matter? Can they be in metal?
Hi, 28 mm is not a big deal, see these two raw scan results: skfb.ly/ovZDJ and skfb.ly/ospBH (note, that the second model is the same as in the video, but printed at a smaller size). It is also possible to scan individual parts and combine those in post-production (which needs some practice and skill, but it is relatively simple and can be done in a freeware like MeshMixer). Material can be almost anything, but note, that you most likely will have to add some tiny features as shown in the video. When scanning metal, it is also adviceable to use the Polarizing filter (cross polarisation) to eliminate reflections. See this raw scan of a metal mini: en.openscan.eu/scan-gallery?lightbox=dataItem-kd1kmc5c__item-kd1yp91h
Hey Thomas! Been playing around with my Mini the past few days and I'm pretty impressed with how consumer friendly it's been. One thing I'm really struggling with now is getting a super fine surface of dots. I'm scanning very small objects, and while I use Aesub White spray, the dots appear much larger than what you've shown here. I think this is the main barrier I'm having to improving the output quality. Do you know if the Aesub Orange you've used here produces smaller dots than White? Could you recommend a spray that will give the best possible surface for my small objects?
Hi Tanner, I just did a quick comparison of white, blue and orange: twitter.com/openscan_eu/status/1531201095896383489 I think, white and orange can be applied similarly fine. If you have some issues with a particular image set, please share some (or all) photos on reddit.com/r/OpenScan for further discussion. Ah and one more thing, what object size are we talking about? Best regards, Thomas
I had been using the openscan mini some time ago and updated it recently with the latest image from the google drive . Now it is super unreliable and the camera keeps getting disconnected. Any clues where to fix it. Also where can I change the tt_stepsperrotation ? the settings cant be changed by ssh so what is the other way? thanks again for a great product
i'd highly suggest using the latest official version from github, see openscan-org.github.io/OpenScan-Doc/firmware/setup/ (latest version on google drive from there should be fine). you can ssh into the rpi and go to ../OpenScan/settings/ and change the settings files there.
Hi Thomas! Would the openscan benefit from using the new Arducam 64MP autofocus camera? I'm planning ordering a kit and wonder whether the higher resolution would make a difference on scanning quality. Thanks!
Hi and sorry for the late reply. I have tested the 64MP and did not see any benefit. I spoke to some people and they said that the 64mp is beyond the reasonable limits of such a small sensor and that there would be a lot of noise..
Hello! Do you recommend buying the whole equipment set (with all the options)? Is there anything that is not needed, at least at first? Thank you for your time.
The whole kit includes all necessary parts, the choices/customization is only for people who already have some parts laying around. But if you don’t, you should go with the full kit
Hey, würdest du sagen sass der mini bessere Resultate liefert als der classic mit einer Wechselobjektivkamera? Ich bin mir nicht ganz sicher welches dee beiden produkte für mich das richtige ist, aber weil ich eine Kamera bereits habe und diese auch sicherlich besser als die kleine pi Kamera ist wollte ich mal nachfragen. Der mini kann natürlich viel, und ich weis nicht wie viel Software/wissen dwr exaktem positionen ausmacht. Desweiteten wollte ich fragen ob es sich lohnt langere sessions aufzunehmen? Mehr als 6 Minuten, z.B. 1 h. Bekommt man dann mehr detail, oder nähert sich das asymptotisch einer maximalen Auflösung? Wovon hangt die auflösung ab? PS: ich habe eine Sony a7R II mit diversen objektiven.
Hey, der Klassik liefert definitiv bessere bis deutlich bessere Ergebnisse, wenn man weiß, was man tut. Jedoch ist da die Einarbeitung und das Lernen schon anspruchsvoller, da man ja die Kamera und das Objektiv richtig wählen und einstellen muss. Außerdem ist zu beachten, dass Photogrammetrie aufgrund der hohen Bildanzahlen mechanische Teile sehr schnell verschleißen kann. Am Ende kommt es halt immer auf die genaue Anwendung an, wieviel Auflösung man wirklich braucht. Ach und die genauen Positionen sind definitiv nicht relevant, da diese von der Software errechnet werden. So kann man auch komplett per Hand ein Objekt fotografieren und entsprechend rekonstruieren. Und noch ein Punkt zur Wahl Klassic/Mini: Die beiden Kits unterscheiden sich ausschließlich in den Druckteilen, sodass man getrost später immer noch von dem einen auf den anderen umsteigen kann. Soweit erstmal von mir, beste Grüße
@@openscan_eu sehr cool. Worauf ist denn bei der Auswahl des Objektives zu achten? Welche Brennweite? Ist Distortion problematisch? Könnte ich meine Fotoreihe in z.B. Lightroom importieren und Distortion entfernen? Welche software wird von euch genutzt? Es gibt ja einige open source photogrammetrie projekte. So wie ich mir das jetzt vorstelle mache ich alle x Sekunden ein Bild mit der Kamera und die den shutter habe ich synchronisert mit der Bewegung des rigs. Eigentlich ist dann doch garkeine Kommunikation zwischen den Geräten notwendig. Oder würde es da bessere methoden geben?
@@AetohatirZu Objektiven kann ich wenig sagen. An sich will man möglichst viel vom Objekt mit möglichst hoher Tiefenschärfe --> Blende ~F11. Das Rig stimmt halt die Bewegung mit der Kamera ab. Darüber hinaus können viele Kameras direkt per USB getriggert werden und dann kann auch direkt über die Firmware die Bilder zur Cloud hochgeladen oder auf dem Rechner weiterbearbeitet werden. Bei den freien Programmen kann ich Meshroom sehr empfehlen oder VisualSFM, beides bedarf ggfs Parameteranpassung je nach Objekt/Kamera. Ich hab die Erfahrung gemacht das zusätzliche Bildbearbeitung (v.a. Distortion veränderung) eher negativ auf die Ergebnisse wirkt, da die kameradistortion eben seitens der Photogrammetriesoftware genutzt wird. Von daher lasse ich die Bilder idr. unbearbeitet.
@@openscan_eu with results like that, I'll need to get one of these for sure! What's the smallest object you think you could reliably scan with the 16mp?
I tried some H0 scale figurines (15-20mm) and these are no problem (when using the right surface preparation). I have some sculpted figurine parts waiting to be scanned, which I will do tomorrow. I think, the smallest on is around 3mm. i will post the results on reddit.com/r/openscan and on my insta :)
if done right, the scan quality is higher then the quality of almost all 3d printers ;) See some examples here: sketchfab.com/openscan/models The scanning spray used in the video will completely vanish after 6-12h, so you can scan painted miniatures as well
Yes, this is totally possible. Note, that it could still be useful to use some self-vanishing scanning spray like Aesub orange (which will evaporate after 24h) in order to create sufficient surface prep. But depending on the painting style, this might not even be needed..
Sure, every feature that is visible in two camera angles will be visible in the model. See this much more intricate example: en.openscan.eu/post/openscan-arducam-testing-the-new-16-megapixel-camera-1
actually, there is a cross-polarizer module in front of the camera and light, where the light gets polarised in one direction and the second polarizer filters all direct reflections as it is oriented perpendicularly. see openscan-org.github.io/OpenScan-Doc/hardware/OpenScanMini/#mounting-the-diffuserpolarizer
This is great @OpenScan I've been enjoying my OpenScan Classic. Is there an auto scaling function for the classic or does it still need to be done via markers?
Hey and thanks :) Unfortunately, there is no autoscaling available and it will probably take quite some more time to do so (as this is currently not in the top half of the endless to-do list ;)
Hey can I use 12mp high quality camera which is come from raspberry Pi because this camera having a lens mountable feature. . . Pls give me suggestions because only plan to buy it
I have tested 21mp and 64mp arducam cameras and did not see any noticeable improvement of the scan results, though i will experiment with newer cameras as they are released. Currently i am testing some daheng industrial cameras with quite promising results…
True! And thanks a lot for the patience! Yes, there are some major improvements on the software side and I am currently FINALLY working on the documentation... :)
Hi, I know you didn't ask me, but I found chalk spray to be a pain in the backside. Real AESUB scanning spray works sooooooo much better (personally I like the long-lasting type with the orange cap). Yes, it's expensive, but considering the amount of mess, wastage and blocked nozzles I experienced with chalk spray, its better value. 3DJake sells it if you are in the EU or UK, not sure about beyond that.
Even better, the stuff vanishes after a couple of hours without any residue. The scanning spray is not super cheap, but this bottle lasts for 100-200 miniatures
Is the raspberry pi 5 compatible for this? Also how about an arducam 64mb? I want to use those to hopefully improve quality but idk if they would be compatible
Cooling might become a problem, as the new ones produce quite a bit of heat. Note, that there won’t be any gains in speed/quality compared to pi 4, as the data acquisition is not very demanding. Processing will be either done on the pc or in the OpenScanCloud..
hello, could you please get someone PLEASE to scan a 1980's he man two piece armor as individual scans and or other 80's-90's action figure armor as i need a scanner that can do small BUT thin they have very thin walls and have small details like pins/clips looking for a scanner that can do it
Will plastic models with a glossy surface need to be primed a neutral color before applying aesub spray? If so is there a recommendation on the color. Or will the aesub spray matte the surface on its own?
Hello there! Amazing work! Whats the config that I have to select to use the scan whith Green stuff models,I have to buy the camera or I can use my android device???,thank u!
Hi and thanks :) There are currently two models available: OpenScan Classic and Mini, where the Mini is an easy to use all-in-one solution whereas the Classic allows the use of external cameras (phone/DSLR...), but you will need to do a bit more tinkering to use the smartphone, see openscan-org.github.io/OpenScan-Doc/hardware/OpenScanClassic/#bluetooth-trigger-iosandroid
The results are mind blowing! I really want to get this, but you don't sell it with the RaspberryPi and I cant find the required model in stock anywhere. When do you think it will be back in stock?
Unfortunately, this has been a huge problem for quite some time.. At the moment I do not have an answer on when there will be some in stock. But i will send a newsletter as soon as the situation improves
absolutely. The classic can give you even better results as you could use a better camera (though it comes at a cost of convenience, as the whole procedure gets a bit more involved but still manageable)
@@iancuadrosdiezbarroso7979 Absolutely, you can start with any camera and don't even need automation like OpenScan devices. Just take 100-200 photos of an object and start processing those with one of the many photogrammetry programs
Feel free to check www.openscan.eu/shop and let me know if you encounter any issues. Note that currently the raspberry pi can not be ordered theough the shop and needs to be obtained locally.
The spray is absolutely crucial in order to create a feature rich surface (millions of tiny dots, which are needed by the photogrammetry software). Without those dots, unicolor surfaces like the miniature can not be scanned (with that method)