For the best results, prime the model in a flat black paint, let it dry and then use a scanning spray. I would also make the scanner parts black. The spotcheck skd-s2 developer spray has worked best from my testing. You can use the vanishing spray as well, I recommend the orange version. The blue disappears too quickly.
@@tabletopscanman I would strip them if the paint is too thick. It is also best to scan minis in parts. I would have glued the tyranid wing seperate onto a small base to get better details. Use the bases as a reference for scale. The scanner is not accurate when It comes to scale.
@ilyabelomy8090 I did think it would have got better results in bits. I thought scanning it as one item would give more features for tracking though but I'm still finding my feet jumping from structured light scanning to photogrammetry, thanks for your help! Any reccomendations on what to try scanning next?
@@tabletopscanman I would prime a few models black and practice using the scanning spray. Do not apply too thick, keep your hand in motion as you spray in short bursts. Crop the camera image for smaller minis for faster processing. I have good results with the open scan classic. The classic gives you more options for larger models and terrain.
Wow, the technology is improving so much every year. Those results look like enough for and amature like me to remesh it. Sharp , clean shapes and add lost details :)
This is EXACTLY the review I have been looking for. I've been on the fence about buying this scanner as I was concerened about the DIY aspect. I really wanted something more commerical and out-of-the-box. I even bought a CL Lizard only to find that it isn't really good for what I want. I am definatly going to buy this now. As I have 3d printers and can print parts and already own a Raspberry PI that I can use the cost goes down quite a bit.
Glad it helped out buddy, I would say this and the cr lizard are different beasts though so make sure you are picking it up for the right reasons. What sort of things do you scan?
Theres a whole community doing this. Pretty much perfected it too. For doing plastic minis use dry shampoo. On top of grey plastic you get an almost perfect result. I generally use 200 photos though
@Mozzytm in the process of setting up another tg at the minute I'm offline for the next couple of weeks due to holidays but will see if I can track you down after 🤟
It's a great way to get into 3d scanning. The assembly isn't as complicated as it may look in the manuals but it does take some thinking for sure! Glad you enjoyed the video.
I've been concentrating on getting the best scans I can at the minute but a workflow video should be easy enough to do. I will add it to the list!! Thank you.
I've been using this hardware for scanning painted miniatures for use in Tabletop Simulator. I don't want to repaint the figures, so I'm not doing any powder or spray. Using Kiri Engine for the photogrammetry. Really great results. If you want the 3d model for printing or modding purposes you are better off with powder or spray, but for use online painted figures w/o spray look great.
Nice video, I havent really thought about it before, I am doing some videos and work aroundminis and was looking for a nice simple way to do scanning, this is now my preferred option, but I have other things I need to buy for other projects first, but this is definitely on my list to look at when i have the available funds
I now own the OpenScan Mini and the Classic. On the mini I always use 52ms shutter speed and use only 40 foto's when scanning Wargame figures. That seems to be enough. And saves a lot of time... I do not like the setup of the Classic. I'm in the process of mounting the camera on the scan arm and the turntable on the floor. So in that way the (heavy) modell doesn't come off. So, I really like the OpenScan stuff, and also use them at school, teaching the staff and teachers how to use it.
Awesome thanks for sharing your settings, what do you do for prep? I think I will do a video dialling settings in at some point, acceleration being one of them as I'm finding that larger models are a bit wobbly similar to you.
I've been looking for more info/videos about this recently, glad it popped up! It's a steep price point for me, but might be worth it for my "tiny hammer" dreams.
this looks GREAT, any chance you could 3d scan action figure acessories? and do a video espically if you have any vintage he man body armor parts :) this is great
Thank you I don't own much vintage he man stuff. I have an action figure sized model I will give a it a go with though no problem. Might be a couple of weeks as I'm off on holiday but I'll get it done.
No problem, thanks for sending it over to test it's a great bit of kit! Would be interested to get your "best" scan settings if you have any? what shutter speeds, number of photos, etc do you find gives the best results?
@@tabletopscanman This really depends on the model and preparation. The most important thing is the object preparation and you will get better results, when applying the spray more lightly creating those favorable tiny dots. This really needs some practice though. Alternatively, you could use an airbrush on lowest pressure to uniformly sprinkle the surface with random dots
Hello Openscan_eu . If you need additional reviewers on youtube, let me know ;-) i am always interrested in cool product reviews to show my community. greetings, Alexandra
I've been thinking of building one of these, please post a video once you've scanned some with scanning spray and many photos, i would love to know if quality is worth my effort of building one.
Can you please scan unpainted plastic? Some of the missing detail might be due to the layers of paint on the mini. It would be great to see those then 3D printed and compared to the original.
O ordered my own kit for an open scan mini, just gotta print the parts , get a raspberry pi, and get a camera, and I can put it all together when I have it. I'm going to do some scans testing out with a matte primer and sprinkling white and gray primer on top for the spotted surface that I see in the pictures from the documentation, for me personally its easier than getting the scan spray, plus it wouldn't evaporate so I can come back and scan again and again, do more testing, add more light dustings of spray, etc.
Nice!! From what I've been experimenting with I think a dark primer with developer spray is the best way to go. You get various shades of white from it and it can be cleaned off when you want. The vanishing stuff is mostly for painted bits and things you can't clean after. Let me know how you get on, what sort of bits do you plan on scanning?
@@tabletopscanman I've got plans to create some "tiny hammer " armies, around 15-20mm, and i was planning on scanning miniatures from the 90s because i just am more familiar with and enjoy the older 40k minis compared to the ones today.
You need to try the Revopoint Mini again. They have new scanning software that works a lot better with the scanner. Try it with the updated software and compare it to the Open Scan.
Also found that the merging of scans has become near impossible in revoscan, whats your experience with it? It continually gets alignments messed up. Might be a noise issue thinking about it 🤔.
I was having that problem as well, although it seems to of lost the merging feature its tracking has improved. Before I was finding it difficult to stop and start during a scan, now if I pause it I can check for defects adjust and resume without much issue
Absolutely awesome video and content as always. Is there something that delivers results as good as this that can be used for larger models, like Bloodthirsters, Keepers of Secrets etc? Looking for the best way of trying to print those.
Thanks a lot! The fundamental practice behind this equipment is photogrammetry. You can achieve some pretty great results with your phone or a dslr that aren't limited to the size of the object and only limited to the amount of time you're willing to put into it. If you're looking for an off the shelf scanner for those items, though, I don't think you will find something at the minute that will give you the scale you need and still grab those details you're after. You can do it with the revopint mini but it does require some cleanup modelling after you scan. Hope that helps. 🙏
I think they both have their use cases. Anything below around 60mm is better on the openscan mini but larger may be better with the revopoint because its not limited to turntable. The openscan also appears to have much higher quality scan output from a significantly less dense mesh and costs A LOT less.
loved the review. do you know anyone who commission scans? - have a cast resin piece i'd like to duplicate and much as i'd love another hobby, not sure my other half feels the same way.
@@chris_the_glove Thank you buddy. Im not aware of commission scanning places myself but the guys over at Openscan will know some people im sure. Drop Thomas over there an email and I'm sure they will help out
I'd rather just spend more and get something like the mini 2. It has a software suite to make getting a solid starting point super fast and easy, and its not so limited in the size of object you can scan and you dont need to rely on any cloud servers/internet.
I own a revopoint mini (boasts the same specs as the mini 2) I think the output scan quality from the openscan is better. Not being a 3d sculpter this matters to me most but your skills may differ from mine. The openscan doesn't need an Internet connection it just speeds things up if it does, ive found most people tend to use metashape as an alternative. I'll do a comparison video for you 😉.
Not really, I enjoyed the video the 3 examples/tests were great, and the video didn't drone on for to long. It was nice, relatively quick and informative. thumbs up （＾∇＾） @@tabletopscanman
If your back from your holidays great and please make a video with this openscan scanning action figure armor and or acessories 80's-90's please as i might get the this photogrammetry scanner :) if your still on holidays ENJOY bud eh :)
@@tabletopscanman action figure armor PLEASE ( he man two peaice armor or mummies alive clip on armror , or something with a 2MM thickness armor sorta thing ) PLEASEEEEEEEEEEEE i looked at 6 scanners claiming they can do it no no they cannont atm a scanner that could do it starts at $5000...to $40,000 here in australia
@@tabletopscanman now that can work too as the overall wall thickness is the same or thinner even modern action figure body armor accessories will work too ultimately my armor is just 1.x-2x thicker than a blade of a kn!fe but have details such as pin/clip holes etc (2mmx2mm)
I am deciding between this scanner and the Revopoint mini. For miniatures, which of the two would you choose? I'm concerned that openscan takes so long to scan each part, revopoint seems a bit faster, doesn't it?
Hard one really buddy. The openscan picks up more detail than the revopoint, they both take the same amount of time to prepare your models and the actual scanning is probably quicker and easier with the openscan. The revopoint is better at 70mm and above because the openscan only has a limited scanning area. I plan to do a comparison video when I'm back home. Hopefully it will help your decision a bit, keep an eye out for it!!! Probably about 3 weeks from now.
You can basically use any photogrammetry software to process the images. Though I am not sure about the quality of the output of Kiri Engine and if they offer highest reconstruction quality as this is quite compute intense. It is definitely worth trying.
I'd say a lot of it has to do with me not knowing the hardware and best process for it just yet, I think in about 3 or 4 months I should be producing good quality items.
Fair comment. Things that will improve the results: number of photos taken ( I used 100), preparation technique (I used baby powder over an unprepared model, ideal is black primed with white speccled detail) and absolutely nailing image focus (mines a bit blurry in places I'm going to print a black back shield and work with manual focus and focus stacking in the next couple of months)
The firmware for it is loaded on the pi I'm not sure if the software has been compiled on different OS's. Might be worth pinging Thomas at openscan a message
You can use any photogrammetry software to process the images. Controlling the motors and camera through the PC is only indirectly possible through the webinterface (from nthe Raspberry Pi).
@@RedMinotaur808 hey buddy nah not at the minute I just don't have the time. Sounds like an awesome project though those old models getting a size up and a bit of glow up would suit them very nicely!! 😀
Glad you asked was planning to make that my next video. I think it covers the smaller parts that the mini can't quite get too. I've done some great scans with it but it's aimed at 50-70mm miniatures and above. This covers that lower point down to 28mm much better. Both have a learning curve and are both different technologies though so bare that in mind.
@@tabletopscanman That was my take. I really wanted to just buy something off the shelf so I bought the Liard and then I got on the Revopoint mini kickstarter. Then I found out that neither is designed to do what I want. I re-sold my revopoint as soon as it arrived, but I still have the lizard for some slightly larger stuff I still want to scan. I've been saving up for the Openscan, but my 3d printer screen just went out, so back to saveing. Hope to have it in a month or two and get some scans done.
Grteat video. I've had a pretty disappointing experience with mine so far. Unanswered emails and lack of any kind of support. For some reason the software won't recognise the arducam so I haven't been able to do anything with it,.
Thank you. Seems like an odd one as they've been very helpful with me. Weirdly I had a similar thing I fixed it by changing firmware version and changing the orientation of the camera ribbon cable at the camera end ( I was sure I followed the instructions perfectly so maybe the orientation in them was incorrect) have you tried the same?
@@tabletopscanman yeah, it’s really frustrating lol. I’ve tried many times even swapping out the cable. Can I ask how you were communicating with Thomas?
Yeh I can understand that. You can see the firmware version I'm using near the start of my video if you wanted to get the same one going on yours, I've personally had no issues contacting via email.
Tempting as it is to make your own minis for nearly free, I can't get past the piracy aspect of this. I'm sure I'll catch all manner of crap for saying it, but there it is.
I see your point I think piracy would be selling these or distributing what you scan on. I think the ability this gives you to create your own unique versions of models by adding further details and reposing what otherwise would be static models is it's real draw for most people (or least for me). I can 100% see where this could be used to make recasts but recasts are already out there and done a lot cheaper.
Why is every YT video like "the sponsor didnt pay me, they just gave me thousands of dollars of free toys, so I have no conflict of interest." That's some Clarence Thomas level mental gymnastics. Obviously if you don't praise a sponsor's product, other sponsors won't give you expensive gifts in the future. Its totally fine to do this but stop talking about it like you're not a paid endorsement. You are.
It's just a statement buddy. IMO if that means it's a paid endorsement to you then that's fine by me. If you think the review was unfair in anyway by all means let me know, I'm always looking to improve.
