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Currently rebuilding my '08 4.7 so this series of videos is a real God send!! Thank you Brian!! Excellent build/video quality, and Many Blessings brother!!
I’ve been patiently awaiting this video since I just finished rebuilding my 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7l v8. I wished I had fully rebuilt mine, but when a buddy of mine said if I change my pistons I’d most likely need the crank rebalanced if there was any deviation in weight from the stock pistons. So basically I just completely tore everything down, cleaned everything up, and reinstalled it all. Only new parts I put in was the heads since my original issue was a blown head gasket, or they had warped or cracked. Great videos man.
Thanks, Jason noting wrong with reusing the same piston if there in good shape! If you reuse the same connecting rods and just replace the piston with a high quilty aftermarket piston, I seriously doubt there would be that serious of a weight change to cause poor engine operation!
I finished the everything about a week ago and so far so good. Engine runs smoothly, no codes, no misfires, nada. Keeping my fingers crossed that I’ll get another 5 to 10 years out of it.
I'm in the process of uploading a short collage of pictures and video of my rebuild that I'll be sure to tag you in so that people will come check out your channel. If you get a chance to watch please do. There's something that might come in handy that I had to do in regards to the motor mounts.
Thanks Bryan for the excellent video resource, attempting one rebuild like this myself... 2002 dodge ram, using 32 teeth crank tune wheel to fit my 2003 dodge ram 4.7L
Been patiently waiting for these videos. I've used STP oil treatment and Lucas for assembly lube many times. My dad showed me that one. Hearing his stories of rebuilding Chebby 283's for his '57 Bel Air. But a total fresh rebuild like this one I use the assembly lube, especially if it may not go in right away. I was watching you put the lube on, I'm thinking "the machine shop musta plasti-gauged it already" lol That Strap-On torque wrench is pretty sweet. I should take out a second mortgage on the house and get one lol. I do my rings the same way, never cared for the ring pliers. I try and stagger the ring gaps equally around the piston. Makes me feel better doing it. I know they move around, but I saw a guy once who didn't, and it smoked and had blow-by pretty bad. Great job as usual Bryan, keep em coming!!!
Yeah, I've been using the same Machinist for over 10years. He gives me a little spec sheet showing Ring gap, Piston ring side clearance, Rod and main bearing clearance, Crank end play, the whole 9yards, and orders the rebuilt kit to get it back together. A few years back I used one of my connections to get his daughter a 2009 VW convertible beetle super cheap with a blown motor. So he always makes it a point to hook me up, on the price too!
It's nice when you can have that kind of business relationship. Machinist of that caliber is becoming rare. We had a guy like that around here at one time, when he retired it left a pretty big void for a quality engine builder, especially one that puts that much detail in to his work. Most guys now send their engines to a place in Buffalo NY
Your Video series are great. I have been watching them over and over again. I did the top end of my engine, now I am doing the bottom end. I know you said some things you did not show on the video because it would make it too long. But if you have the clips of you installing the piston on the rod, you could post that as a different video. As well as how you gapped the rings. Nice work all in all. I have enjoyed and learned a lot from your videos. Very Humble sir.
I believe Dodge uses pressed in wrist pins, so the piston-rod installation would have been done at the machine shop. Check ring clearance by inserting bare rings into cylinder and check gap with a feeler gauge. A Haynes manual for your particular engine will have all the recommended clearances. I'm not Brian, but I've done a few rebuilds. I'm sure I'm not telling you stuff you don't already know. Good luck with it.
Look at that bottom end. Wow. That's strong. One peace. 30000 bolts holding that crank to the block. Nice. Why didn't dodge do more with this engine? Should of made the same engine a 5.7
Had a head gasket blow on my 2002 Durango (4.7). Too "new" for me to fix; esp. w/my now being a disabled senior, Got a grant through my electric company's "roundup" program to get the head gasket done at a local shop, (Which took time; &, it sat at a friend's house for about 10 weeks - including during a polar vortex.) They got into it & found that the timing chain tensioners & guides were crumbling. I maxed out my credit card getting parts & paying for labor on that. Got a call that the jobs were finished; but, I needed to come listen to it. I did that about 4 days ago. DEFINITE lower end knocking. The assumption is that water in the crankcase had rusted (or otherwise damaged) the lower end bearings. (I'd checked the dip stick while awaiting the tow truck; &, the oil looked good; but, when they did the oil change, they said there was @ a gallon of water/antifreeze that had come out with the old oil. I NEED THIS TRUCK - DESPERATELY!!! I'm also trying to pull my life back together from a fire just 10 days shy of 1 year ago, leaving me pretty much destitute. I need it to be able to "curb shop" for what I need, to be able to drag trees & debris away from the area my propane supplier would have to get into in order to move my propane tank down to where the (old, uninsulated, & without real doors) camper trailer I'm staying in is located. Also, in the meantime, I'm getting very basic errands done thanks to a friend who's loaning me his spare car - which he's needing to put up for sale. At just about a month shy of 69, I'm not able to drag stuff by hand; &, fall (A LOT) even just walking around with my hands free!!! It could take several months before I'll even be able to order the parts from RockAuto; &, even then, I'll pretty well have to tackle the job pretty much on my own. A fellow I know is in the process of buying a shop; &, he's said I'd be able to do it there & that he'd help a bit on the physical stuff; but, I've learned over the years to not count on any help until after it's happened. Hopefully, that will come through & I'll at least have access to a lift. Questions: 1) I remember from back in the early '80's that unscrupulous used car lots would "temporarily fix" lower end damage with an oil additive - I'm thinking it was Marvel Mystery Oil; but, my memory isn't what it used to be. Anyone out there remember for sure what it was and/or how long it worked for? 2) When I can get the parts, is there a way to do the lower end stuff from underneath, without having to redo what's already been done? 3) If so, what steps do I need to take to make CERTAIN that I get the crank back in without messing up the timing? 3) If so, what steps do I need to take to make CERTAIN that I get the crank back in without messing up the timing? Side notes: I was the 2nd female motorcycle mechanic in the state of Oklahoma; &, built my own 45 flat head Harley from "a basket;" but, that was in the mid-70's. In the early '80's, I drifted off into doing a wide variety of other stuff. Until this happened in Oct., no vehicle of mine had ever been sent to a shop. In @1991, I did a head gasket job on the '73 F-150 I had (back when you could still climb in & stand on the front axle!) I've never had a vehicle that was this "new," though... When all this computerized crap came along, I got pretty well "lost." My solution was to stay with the oldest vehicles I could get, mainly ones that look like crap but ran decently. The tags were cheaper & I could typically fix things that went wrong. Those are getting REALLY hard to find these days, though. Anyway... I definitely "know the difference between an open end & a box end;" &, I'm not "afraid of getting grease under my fingernails." Unfortunately, my body's "pretty well shot;" &, my brain isn't lagging too far behind. (Too many years of telling my body "When I want your opinion, I'LL GIVE YOU ONE!...")
This has been a very good series on the 4.7 but you may have made a mistake with the torque specs on the mains. The FSM lists bolts 1-10 as 25 inch/lbs + 90°, not 25 ft/lbs + 90° as you indicated. I couldn't clearly read the writing on the list, so it just might have been an oversight since 25 in/lbs is so light. I know this a 4 yr old video but thought I should still bring it up since it's one of the best on 4.7's! Great work, thanks for creating it.
correct if I am wrong but the spec sheet you showed us said it was a single overhead cam with 16 valves. The 4.7 is a D.O.H.C with 2 valves per cylinder with only 1 spark plug per cylinder. I only mention that because the later 5.7 went 2 plugs per cylinder.
@@Bryan916 why no love for the dual plug later model heads? That was what I have been trying to find for an engine swap on my restomod? thanks. I have enjoyed your series on this build keep em coming if you can.
@@jimbetts5164 Most customers have no clue they need 16 spark plugs and can't understand why it's so expensive. Also, you can't really charge too much more for labor even though it's differently more work. That's my only issue other than that it's a good motor!
What is the normal price difference between a complete rebuild and just buying a short block? By the way enjoying videos and hope to rebuild my 2006 Dodge Ram with 4.7. Have 231000 miles on it right now.
Great video series Bryan...it helped me immensely as I am old school Mopar. Question: The freeze plug kit came with 10 ea. 1-3/8 plugs and 1ea. 11/16 plug .Where does the small plug go...did I miss it somewhere?
Brian, great video. I have watched the whole series. I am doing this job on my wife's '-06 Commander now. It had 245k miles on it and decided to drop a valve seat. I sent the heads out to a local guy that is highly recommended and another shop to do the lower end. Got the heads back and waiting on the block. Stupid question here. What bolts, length and size, did you use to mount to the engine stand? Thanks for the videos. They are the only reason I decided to tackle this job. David
I can't remember 🤔 but I recall going to the hardware store with a bell housing Bolt to match it up. The trick I use is to find a nut that will twist on the bolt to find the right thread pitch.
Bryan916 Yeah, that’s kind of the plan. I was trying to figure out which ones. There are three across the top that are a little smaller/shorter, then about 10 that go around that are the same size, then 2 larger bolts on the sides. I assume the 10 that are alike would be a safe bet.
Bryan this is an excellent series! I'm getting a re-manufactured 4.7 ready to go into a 2002 Grand Cherokee and I see the bottom plate where the oil pan seals to has some pretty good gouges in it - someone obviously without your expertise, got way to rough getting one off prior to the rebuild. Do you think some thin RTV is warranted or should the Mopar OEM gasket handle it? Thank you for all your fantastic vids. Sure miss you posting from the shop. Too bad over-regulation and other nonsense got in the way of good honest mechanic skills!
I have a question on the main bearing cap bolts, your list say 25 in. lba not ft, lbs. My repair book says 25 in, lbs but that seems to light a setting. Called the dealer and was not much better, he said 20 but not in inches, so 25 ft. Lbs sounds good after all. Hope that helps someone.
Do they sell the galley plugs and the freeze plugs as a kit? I'm doing a 5.7 v8 and I'm trying to gather all the small parts before the block and Eads get out of the shop
Great video I noticed that you did not explain about ring placement position? you know like one being at 10 o'clock the other at 4 and the other and 8 then 2? Also, what was the final torq of the rods after the 90final degrees? Thanks
Of course you don't want the ring end gaps to align right so what I like to do is draw a imaginary X on the piston top then place each ring opening at each x point furthest away from each other if that make sense. The connecting rod cap bolts Step one: 20 Ft-lbs. Step two: Turn an additional 90 degrees and your done!
Great video brian , Its OK to use the original lifters or did you replace them? Mine has over 208,000 miles on it . I'm replacing my water pump and timing chain cover gasket. Ran good when I bought it. Should I leave the timing chain guides and tensioners alone?
I would definitely recommend replacing all the timing components. I ended up changing the lifters on this engine about 1500 miles latter, the customer called me and said the left side had a ticking sound so I replaced all 8 lifters the ticking sound went away and the customer was happy. So if possible I would say yes replacing the lifters could save you from having to do it later.
Im rebuilding my 4.7, are bolts 1-10 for the bedplate supposed to be 25 Ft lbs or 25 in lbs? Everything online is saying inch pounds and I noticed you used foot pounds.
My dad is rebuilding this exact engine and is using your videos to guide him - so a BIG thank you for this series. For the bedplate bolt torque specs: bolts 1-10 read 25 in. lbs... but in the video you said ft lbs and set your torque wrench to 25 ft lbs. Can you clarify this? Thank you in advance!!
those are most likely ft/lbs considering if the bolts back out the bed plate would be a bad place for that to happen. Here is the thing my torque wrench feels like it is falling apart at that small of reading and most in/lbs torque wrenches are maxed out in in/lbs between 240 - 300 inch pounds. I trust the maxed out T.W. reading more than one that is falling to pieces. 25 ft/lbs. = 300 in/lbs. You torque bolts from center moving outwards in 3 even increments increases, meaning first pass is 100 in/lbs. next re-torque in same order and pattern at 200 in./lbs. Last pass repeating step 2 but at 300 in/ lbs. if your wrench can torque accurately at less than 25ft/lbs you would do 8 ft/lbs. 8 ft/lbs. and a final pass of 9 ft/lbs. make sure the holes are clean the bolts threads are not stripped or damaged. Head bolts should be replaced. I tap holes to make sure threads are good to go and use the die on bolts to clean the threads if I plan on reusing them
@@Bryan916 awesome thank you man I'm pulling the motor out of my truck at this very moment and I was worried I was going to have to run and buy some new ones
@@Bryan916 thanks for responding appreciate it...do u think the loctite 518(already bought it) will work? cause there a big hype out there about bed plate to block sealant even dodge calls for their Mopar anaerobic sealer but can't find it
@R2row diaz I haven't done any rebuilds using the Loctite stuff, but I've done six Dodges, 4.7 and two 3.7 rebuilds using the Permatex Ultra black and never had a problem. The trick is not globbing too much on but using the right amount so you don't block the oil holes. If you're not sure how to lay the right size bead down, then yes, find an anaerobic sealer.
@@Bryan916 i have my engine upside down and fillet the pickup tube with some oil and it leaks by the pump a decent amount. All torqued to spec. Im hoping its alright
Btw love your video's on the 4.7. I'm currently working on my fiance 2005 dodge ram. Lost all oil pressure due to sludge main bearing were good. Sent it to the machine shop and now putting it back together. One of the bed plate bolts popped torqued it down. Looking for new bolts now.
@@a.brucechauncey9650 Technically the bed plate bolts and head bolts are not TTY bolts and can be reused. Hopefully it wasn't one of the special bolt that snapped, if so only the Dealer or junkyard but if its a regular style bolt finding a hardware store replacement will work just fine as long as it very close in length! I reused the bed plate bolts, and purchase new head bolts from Rockauto.com
@@Bryan916 unfortunately mine are tty bolts. And one snapped. I was able to get it out. So thank you for your input. It was the 15mm bolt number 2 that broke. Going to the dealership tomorrow to order them. Thanks again. Love your video's. Great information you put out. Keep up with the good work you do.
End gaps where in spec, I didn't show everything thing I did on video it would be way too long. I've rebuilt lots of engines James. Check the whole series out before you make a judgment on my work. Thanks for watching!
@@Bryan916 I wasn't trying to come off that way, I've been watching the whole build. It was just a question because you have been showing so much that i just noticed it wasn't shown or spoken about at that point of the rebuild. I'm actually really happy with the time and effort you put into making this series, most people do a time lapse and don't give enough information. I personally own a 2006 Ram 1500 with a 4.7 and its has about 140k on it so i'm watching the series to build some knowledge on what it takes to rebuild these motors. You're the 3rd person i've watched so far rebuild one and by far the most in depth and i really appreciate it! Keep up the good work, no disrespect was meant.
@@Lastnamebundy O okay thanks for the positive feedback James I could have been a little defensive I get so many comments from people saying ridiculous and negative stuff! Thanks for watching Brother its much appreciated.
Hey, I need your assistance on my truck situation here bc I believe that it may have for me to rebuild the 4.7 engine of mines. If you would give me your email or # do that we can elaborate or communicate