Can I ask what brand wheels you have on the corvette? I just bought a e350 from a guy that curbed both passenger side wheels and I’m 99% they are the same wheels I saw when you showed us your back tire/wheel. Thank you I assume it’s not easy trying to respond to all the followers
I haven't done anything major to my car but its a 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera with a 3.3 V6. I just mainly done a change to the air filter because the stock one had never been changed. I had to change the ignition coils but plan on doing the spark plugs and the plug wires. Edit: changed the battery today and got a easier starting engine thanks to a 920 crank amperage and 720 cold crank amperage.
Suspension should come before engine modifications as not only is upgraded suspension faster around the track faster than a turbo your car also looks better and the suspension is more stronger,looks better and is probably lighter and faster.
When I bought my 500 Abarth with some previous mods I have now, about 200ish hp maybe to the wheels, I went from worn summer tires to fresh, stiff side wall, excellent in the wet, all seasons and it was a horrible decision. They were a steal and they drive great under normal conditions like on the highway, and they even do ok on gently winding canyons or foothills, but driving hard is hysterical. I can light them up 1st through the end of 3rd from a stop, vs before only maybe half way through 2nd. Also on very, very sharp corners you really have to roll into it gently or risk the car yanking itself onto the sidewalk or into a ditch vs before it was pretty manageable to just stomp on it once you apex. The two tires have the same traction rating, but I guess that varies on all seasons vs summer tires. The difference seems much more obvious for FWD cars. This is the first time I have had a light, decently powerful FWD car, usually I have FR cars only, so I wasn't quite aware. Next set will be something a bit stickier for sure.
I just have a feeling on anything that's not muscle or sports, it'll look stupid. Like I have a 20 sonic rs, if I lower it, it'll look like I'm a noob smh
My car’s black, so PPF + ceramic is critical to keep it from being a swirly mess. I love being able to do a foam bath + pressure washer to clean, rather than having to (normally) hand wash. Love my Adam’s dryer, too. Of course, I am one of those people who want my car to be immaculate 100% of the time. 😂
When I told my friends that I increase tire wall to fill the wheel gaps on my WRX they think that I'm dumb. Little that they know that my car isn't like the mainstream, it's lifted.
Hey bladed quick talk, these videos have been what's keeping me going. See the new video is what has brought a smile to my face so thank you. I'm not old enough where I have a lot of experience with cars or even own one but I still love them and I have a little knowledge about them. So every video I learn at least one thing, keep up the good work and once again thank you.
Blade: You should lower your car. Me: Raised my car as soon as I bought it (lowered by previous owner) because of our shit roads here in Brisbane, Australia. Totally glad I did that too after the recent flooding as every road is full of potholes atm.
exhaust is a must do mod in imo, it make the car/bike more enjoyable and fun to drive/ride giving you motivation to have fun with it and modify it more
Man, living in the US must be nice. I could easily lower my car, but cops don't really like that, even if it's done with all the paperwork needed. Plus our roads are terrible, but bigger wheels can fix that
That's why you lower the car and buy wheels and tires that make it look like it is still stock. You can get great summer tires in 16 and 17 inch tires with big sidewalls. These tires protect the fancy wheels and make people not even realize the car is lower.
That's what I actually did for my winter driver! I got 55 tires for my prelude and the wheel gap is about two fingers and the ground clearance for Canadian winter is decent!
I would argue the very first thing you do is FIX the damn car before you start adding more stuff that'll break anyway if you leave it as is. For me, new Brembos and coilovers were a fix for warped rotors and dead struts so it was a win-win, but just fixing what's absolutely necessary will make modding whatever else so much easier. Great vid, Callie looks great :)
heres one to go along with fitment and wheels, adding Horsepower before upgrading the stock brake discs/callipers... especially on "grocery getters" theres no point adding more go before you are confident you can stop
Suspension is the first thing I'd change in a car, even before brake upgrade. Good set of coilovers will not only make your car look a lot better, but also perform much better and even ride nicer if you get good progressive springs. My 9-3 Aero looks ok bc it's 30mm lower from factory and I put larger wheels on it, so the fitment isn't horrendous. I'll be replacing front control arms soon so since I'm already doing that I'll get a set of nice coilovers and lower it a bit further. After that Imma get better brakes. Was thinking 6 piston front and 4 piston back with larger rotors all around before I do any performance mods- they'll be useful bc I'm aiming for 500bhp.
One lesson I learned from my first G37 was to focus on handling before cosmetics and power. I waited too long to replace the sway bars and control arms and its shocking how the car dynamics changed. Oh and you can ceramic coat your exhaust tips, but check with the manufacturer first.
You videos are amazing! I love them! I appreciate the videos and the knowledge for cars. I thought I knew a lot before but wow there is so much more and I’m glad to learn this! Keep up the great work!
I’ve found that a lot of dealerships around me run deals with private detail places that will discount the ppf and ceramic coating if you buy from them
My biggest is being in a country where you can't drive at 16 and where you still have to wait until 19 to actually drive a car more powerful than 95hp/1000kg and, even another two years to avoid paying triple for insurance because "I'm young and dangerous". But hey, I can appreciate more little changes in horsepower! I sure will be happy changing from 95hp to 120! I love your content, thanks dude.
My plan with my mx-5 NC1 is: 1. Catback (car is waaay to quiet) 2. Coilovers ( I need them so i can fit the wheels i want) 3. Wheels (I really like the look of the OEM Evo 8 wheels)
GTI came with tired, dry PS4S’s, and they ate up nails and such. Had to eek it by with some used tires before getting new wheels and tires. I went from 18x7.5” 29lb wheels + 22lb tires, down to 17x8” 18.7lb wheels + 23lb tires. Saved at minimum 9lbs each corner. Switched over to ExtremeContact DWS06+, which made this car entirely viable in ANY weather; amazing tires.
Overbuilt cooling isn't good for wear either though(if you can't get the oil up to temperature, the oil will add resistance to the motor, which can increase stress and rob power). Install a thermostatic bypass(something like a Mishimoto thermostatic oil sandwich plate) so that it cuts off flow to the oil cooler under its operating temperature. Once temps are where it needs to be, it'll flow again and you can avoid having the engine run cold for too long.
Suspension and tires depend on the car (I wouldn't lower a GT350R or S207). Also, if you're changing your tire diameter, make sure your speedometer is still accurate.
@David Silva you can fix this with a tune on modern cars. With sct you can go into the device and change the gear ratio and tire diameter so it corrects your speedo if you change one or both.
I'm gonna buy wheels, tires and suspension for my NB Miata this year if I can afford it, I should be able to with the summer jobs I have lined up (still a student rip). Hoping to seriously improve the look and driving experience!
@@Xander1Sheridan I've spoken to many Miata owners and they said they couldn't tell the difference between heavy and light wheels, I'm still getting lightweight wheels because even if it's a small improvement it's still an improvement and it's a sign that the wheel is well made. Currently looking at the Konig Countergram
If you are upgrading your daily, I HIGHLY recommend some form of noise reduction. Youll still hear your exhaust trust me, but now you get it without the roadnoise interrupting : )
I totally agree that suspension, wheels and tires should be the first mods (quality ones not cheap ones). A good suspension will do wonders for car handling and good tires will do the same. For people going the DIY way I suggest lowering springs over coilovers because it's easy to set coilovers wrong without noticing, car may handle worse and not better or the car may act unpredictable under certain conditions (it was expensive for me to learn that). For people doing coilovers get them set up with someone that knows what they're doing. One thing I disagree with this video is upsizing or downsizing the overall diameter of the tire (not talking about tire wheel size or sidewall size), a bigger diameter tire will throw off the speedometer reading and show a lower speed than the car is actually doing and a smaller diameter tire will show a higher speed than your actual speed (and will also affect the mileage numbers).
my dad has a old vw beetle he build himself by stripping 3 junk beetles down and using the best parts, then he made it sporty with an bigger engine, Empi wheels and lowered it to the point that it nearly can't drive up or down our driveway
One piece driveshaft is a mod I regret doing it later (on S197 Mustang GT). The one piece driveshaft fixed the issue from the factory 2 piece driveshaft: - no more low frequency rumbling/vibration that can wear out the transmission/differential (especially the seals) - Minor torque/fuel economy improvement due to lighter driveshaft - No more clunking/rough rolling/noises at low speed (especially common when you drive a manual in a traffic jam). It is shitty of Ford to engineer the 2-piece driveshaft in the first place. They tried to spend more money since 2-piece are more expensive in order for Ford to fix the vibration issues. But instead they made it worse.
I haven’t mod my truck but these are my first mods I recommend: *stiffer anti roll bar *cold stops street performance brake pads *radiator (I live in Texas) *coilovers *sports tires *oil cooler Research. Research. Research.
I will absolutely agree with the lowering thing, except for when you have a 4X4, in which case, its kinda useless lowered, and no i don’t mean an AWD (Subaru, Evo, etc) i mean a proper 4X4 that is designed to go and explore trails etc.
downpipe before catback on boosted cars. I decided I wanted more noise before power and when I finally got that downpipe (with a tune) it was an entirely different car in terms of responsiveness and power, I'm sure the tune did a lot but that downpipe really helped everything breath a lot better while adding way more exhaust noise.
i need to get some coilovers for sure. stock ground clearance is about 4.8 inches right now and im on stock audi 19's. never bothered to change them just powder coated and ceramiced them. theyre only 21-22 lbs each and couldn't justify spending thousands on lighter wheels when these are already so light. few power gaining mods done but cooling is a must for this car. with a downpipe and tune and few other power mods i get heatsoak like crazy in the summer.
I regret buying a non running car as my first project, it's taken 5 years for me to actually be even a little close to actually driving my car. I should've just bought that dodge colt that ran and drove.
Aw man that cooling advice hit home for me. I have a boosted (ka24de-t) 240sx and I kept losing power over a couple pulls and I decided to upgrade the radiator and thermostat instead of others telling me I need a boost controller for more boost blah blah, and it solved everything. One thing I'd like to add (in my experience) would be brakes. I mean if your car came with the power they have the brakes to deal with it but mine didn't haha. You can make all the power but without having a way to stop it is a problem (goes hand in hand with suspension/wheels/tires for road contact). Glad I stumbled onto your channel. Also was hoping for a "diesel guy" as I have a v10 tdi and wondered what your interpretation would be in your "Types of car guys" videos. Great videos regardless!
I agree, I recently fitted coilovers on my modified Audi A4 1.8t (front wheel drive) and by having the front a bit lower it really reduced the wheel spin I had significantly, I just need some sticker tyres now
On the topic about making power for a few passes, stop building engines that make absolute peak power and don’t have power under the curve. A buddy had a poorly tuned WRX with a 19STI engine that made 450 wheel, and I totally believed it when it hit boost. The issue is that it took 3 seconds to build boost and my stock Veloster N was already a bus ahead. He couldn’t even close the gap because his powerband was so narrow.
You can do paint correction yourself if you're comfortable with power tools. I just fully detailed my 2001 f150 ( it had tons of industrial fallout on it to clay bar off) and it makes you feel so much better if you do the work yourself. Plus I ceramic coated it too after compound and polishing it.
Yeah, wheels & tyre mods done right can be a godsend. I remember changing the wheels on my golf from a 18x7.5 to 17x8.5, after that my car could handle bends and potholes with ease.
I’m a off-road guy but still into street cars biggest thing for off-road is gearing and locking diffs went from struggling up slick Rick slabs to walking up them from just higher gearing and lockers which then supports larger tires
Wheels. And wishing I would have been more knowledgeable about cars and parts before I started burning money. Getting some Konig Lace wheels and seeing how fast my car goes with Steelies on (Wish I would have swapped first) I am excited to see how acceleration will be drastically improved as well as braking with them as opposed to the heavy steelies.
Sorta unrelated but found out the junk yards around me don't even have 90s model vehicles which sucks so that makes getting my car running a lil more expensive
First thing I did after buying my Z was order some Tein coilovers for her. Had them on before she was even licensed so idk how stock feels. What I can tell you, she feels like hot glue on asphalt. Everything is tight and feels precise AF
After that phase with all the itasha and irl vidoes finished of and the channel just went back to list videos I was a bit disappointed but I say all the character and personality that's put into the videos still makes them heaps of fun to watch. Keep up the great content hope for more irl / car meet vids.
I think in terms of lowering cars though, classic muscle cars look more aggressive as stock height. Lowered classic muscle cars just dont look right with their boxier dimensions and it makes the car look slower to me.
and even that is too low. Many people have put cheap coils on 86's because they are cheap cars and ruined the way they drive. Making sure you get a good product by people that actually know what they are doing is important.
Omg I don't agree with everything you've said mostly because of goal differences, but I love your channel so far. And this sponsor is something i would actually reasonablely buy and use I'm lazy constantly working on my car and the last thing I think of is detailing it gets done once in a blue moon and this is the exact product I'm looking for thank you.
I guess lowered height can look good ( and is much better for the track) but tbh I prefer the stock height of the 2005-2014 mustangs. I also live in a state that has 4 seasons and it causes potholes and since we’re also a desert we have to have lots of additional road irrigation to prevent roads from flooding during the spring and early summer from snow melt. So everyone I know with a lowered car is constantly fixing their bumper…
I regret not changing to new expensive tires, brakes and getting it rustproof undercoated the moment I bought it, it cost more in the long run to not do that
Sounds like a fitment industries video. But the first 3 are pretty much the first real mods I'll be doing. Air ride, hypergrams, and ceramic coat. I'll get a paint job down the line but for now I'll do some polish and compound till I get a new bumper.
I finally bought coil overs, sways bars and strut braces for my 5.7 Charger and of course this is after Exhaust, Supercharger and Brake mods over the past 7 years. My goal was to build it up over time. Next year or two I'm going to either stroke and cam it or just forge the internals with a cam and up the boost to 10 lbs and see what she puts out!
3:40 Dude I have a few friends in Gwinnett County lol, I was there a few months ago, very nice place. I went camping with them in Helen in October, not that i travel much but some of the roads around there are the most beautiful and fun roads ive ever driven! But for future reference, i'd recommend blurring your license plate unless you dont mind people knowing it, ive heard its possible to get someones personal information from just their plates
Lowered suspension has been nothing but a pain for me. Previous owner put lowered suspension in the front to simulate the Shelby drop or whatever. Everyone ven after I reduced the wheel size and width to more of a stock size, they still rub when I turn, and speed bumps, railroad tracks, shitty pavement spots, driveways, etc, I always tag my clutch housing. It took me years to figure out why my clutch kept squeaking unless I depressed it, even after I had totally replaced it (over 2 grand, BTW). And it was because I was hitting things thanks to the lowered suspension.
