Another great instructional video. Thank you very much for posting. This helped greatly attain confidence and success with changing my daughter’s 97 Mazda 323 timing belt. Bought a seal kit as you’ve demonstrated and replaced crankshaft and camshaft seals without issue. Used dielectric grease as you recommended. Even though it took me hours, feels good to achieve something that was once beyond my comfort zone! Thanks again HMP! Really enjoy and appreciate your videos.
An easier way is to use TWO paint can openers. Put one in each side of the seal at 180 degrees apart. Then put a six inch 3/8 extension or a ratchet handle, or a large screwdriver, anything really, through both loops to make a single handle. Then use a pry bar to pry the extension/ratchet/screwdriver against the block or head. The bigger the pry bar the easier they come out.
You could ... if you have the room and want to spend the time doing it. Can't do it on a transversely mounted V6 Toyota engine. You can't even get a right angle drill in there on the bank 1 side closest to the firewall. I use the cheap Leslie seal removal tool all the time.
@@hardlymovingpro I got a $20 right-angle drill adapter from the hardware store and it worked great, 1"-2" to spare by the firewall, plenty of space (Highlander, Toyota V6 3.3). Thanks for video, btw!
hI, YOU are my guru when it comes to tricky questions. i always watch for something when i am not clear about. I have to do rack and pinion change for my honda pilot. Manual requires me to remove / bring the subframe down to the point where i can slide the rack and pinion out. I dont have lift in my garage, i dont have engine hoist, can u recommend a way of how i can do this at home, if not safe i will find someone. Just to let you know i am guy who did timing belt replacement, so you know my skills. thanks and looking for your response.
You'll need a engine support bar that'll hold both the engine and transmission up while you detach the subframe from the chassis and the engine/transmission mounts. Here's what is looks like: amzn.to/2VjxMXo
How does the kit (or any of the other options) do this without scratching the cam surface? I don't have a lot of experience doing this and have seen damage done to a surface after the extraction of a main bearing. The cam shaft bearing I'm working actually spins but has hardened and is chipping out which in turn started to expose an inner metal ring. The loss of flexibility makes it hard to slip anything in and behind it. The 2.2 engine is still in the 98 Camry so clearance is somewhat limited too.
It may scratch a portion of the shaft leading to where the seal rides on the shaft. Or in other words, the puller tool's "hook" is pulling on the outside of the seal ... not the inside portion of the seal that prevents oil seepage. If you don't want to use the puller tool, you can take off the valve cover to expose the camshaft bearing cap closest to the cam sprocket, remove the cap to expose the top portion of the cam seal and then remove it. A lot of extra work IMHO. The procedures and methods outline in this video is what repair shops commonly do.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you for responding quickly. It's nice to know all options and I'll get more confident with the puller tools. I plan to to have the Lisle Shaft Type Seal Puller or the kit on hand before I do this again. I got the seal out with no damage using something from my nik nak bag.
In preparing for doing my timing belt and water pump in 9k miles, I've definitely done a lot of reading about seal removal and installation. I've wondered if any of those seal kits were worthy buying or if heeding the warnings on people saying they broke quickly, etc. cheap Chinese craftsmanship, etc. Which kit did you buy and what do you think about it? Do you prefer the kit to the other methods? I have the Lisle seal removal tool. I do not however, have a seal installation tool yet. I was thinking of crafting my own with PVC + washers, or just buying a japanese car seal installer cup tool such as ( KTC-U1290 ) or ( JTC 4774 )
The kit I bought is a OEM brand that was on sale. I had been using the Leslie tool in conjunction with the paint can lid remover. The leslie tool failed me once where I had to resort to a screw driver. For seal installation, you can create your own tool with PVC, washers and a cap.
Hi Hardly, there is a tool that you have used for Toyota/Lexus Cam Seals Installation in Timing Belt Videos. There are possibly two threaded bolts in that tool... one is 10mm and 2nd is 12mm thickness, and both with the same pitch of 1.25mm. Can you please confirm which one fits the V6 models. I was thinking to build my own as a DIYer as the use is very less, and I guess it can be made with simple bolt design and a PVC type material with a little modification. Appreciate your kind reply as always!
Yes .. A PVC pipe of equal diameter with a cap can work. Bring the cam bolt to a hardware store to match against a in store stud and nut and you've got yourself a seal installation tool.
Hey man I got a question, I knicked the hell out of the suface around my cam seal, removing the old seal on my 1MZ engine. Of course it's the rear seal. Anyway, would RTV around the outside be a viable idea? The only other thing I can do is remove the cam and repair it all that way. Any advice?
Oil leakage occurs between the cam and inner lip of the seal; not the outer portion of the seal that mounts inside the cylinder head seal hole. If the seal hole is damaged and allows a gap between the new seal and the hole, perhaps a light coat of RTV inside the hole would be in order.
That is a bummer in that removing the valve cover on the firewall side can be real hassle. You'll need to remove everything that holds the electrical harness on top of the valve cover; otherwise, you'll never be able to lift the harness high enough to remove the cover above the spark plug tubes.
@@hardlymovingpro yeah, I have actually replaced the valve cover gaskets and valley pan seal. Before. It's more work than I'd like to do to get there. Hopefully the. Cam just comes right out and I'll have to get one from the salvage yard I suppose. Thanks again for the help brother
Yes, i would prefer that way as it prevents any possible scarring or nicking of the shaft, but how do you use that method on the back cam, where there is little room to work.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you. Can you help me find cam seals for a 1999 Jeep grand Cherokee 4.7? Im not sure if I’m finding the right thing on eBay or Amazon. Im not sure what I’m looking at
PVC pipe, 1 1/2" diameter works well on Toyota cam seals. Real short piece, tap it on to get it seated, then use the cam sprocket & bolt to press it on
I will say this just as a warning to myself as well before I start this job be sure you tighten everything exactly how you found it or to spec it's very important if you over tighten something you can very well cause internal bearings to fail or Etc but just make sure everything's to spec and tolerance.
You wouldn’t believe how many times I’ve heard “don’t waste your time with torque specs “. But if there’s a seal or a gasket or a bearing under that fastener then you can bet your ass I’m looking up the spec and breaking out the torque wrench.
Do you have one from start to finish on how to remove in the inner (back) Crankshaft on 2000 Honda Civic or 2005 Honda CR-V without lifting the vehicle up 2 meters in the air?
The crankshaft or crankshaft seal? If the seal, the "back" seal is between the engine and transmission and would require removal of the transmission which I don't cover.
@@hardlymovingpro The Crankshaft's Inner (back) Seal. Haven't seen any on RU-vid from jack stands from start to finish. Many might show with engine out or engine stand, which is useless.
@@angelisone I can understand why since it'll be a lot of work with heavy duty equipment involved to remove both the transmission and engine (for the shade tree mechanic's perspective). You'd have to buy or rent (if possible) an engine hoist that can support the couple of hundred pounds lifting the engine or both engine and transmission out of the car. If you can get an extra pair of hands, you could possibly hoist the engine out with some chain and a long 2x6 with each of you lifting the 2x6 with the engine in the center onto your shoulders. Another option is to use a engine cross brace that sits above the engine compartment and holds the engine up while you detach and slide off the transmission from the bottom of the car.
@@hardlymovingpro well I smoothed the scratch best I could with wet dry sandpaper 600 grit. Oh and it's the 5sfe Camry engine. There is still a light scratch. I think it leaks because I have replaced the valve cover gasket and re sealed those half circle plugs- dabbed permatex where it's needed but oil still puddles on top of the intake manifold runners of the passenger side. Very minor though.
I got one of those seal removal tools.. didn't work.. spent 40 minutes prying/hacking at the seal with various screwdrivers and it finally came out once I used the tiny screwdriver to cut the seal and create relief and then it finally came out... it's almost like this tool was only made to remove brand new seals.. those 20-yr old ones aren't coming out without a fight
All of these methods appear to scratch the surface of the cam. Not good... I use a drill to drill 2 holes into the seal. Then I insert 2 long nails with bent tips into these holes and pull the seal out. I never touch the surface of the cam.
I use to do it that way. The way I did it in the video is the easiest, the most efficient and doesn't scratch the surface. Must have done it over 100 times.
