Ya put your cone washer on backwards. The dip goes towards the clutch. It kind of keeps it centered. If you notice, the clutch has a little play in it.
As I age I am liking directions a lot more, LOL. Anti seize is so important when mixing metals ! These clutches are great. Just have a couple replacement belts on hand.
This is the way to do this... Following the instructions... I especially like his use of anti-seize, especially when the dissimilar metals (steel & aluminum) are known to cause corrosion and eventually, stuck/broken fasteners which often render the machine as being useless, until the stuck fasteners are removed... I wish the companies that make these machines would do this more often...
Trying to accomplish the same set up on my golf cart conversion. Running the driven clutch with the spring outboard like that, did you have any issues? How did this work for you?
Nice looking drive Kevin.....wich I could have had this drive unit this autumn....had to rebuild the drive unit on my Kawasaki 1000 Mule....what a job and everything was real warned and a new one was $800....just to much....CHEERS
I'm gonna make forest trail bikes for family leisure activities I have a bunch of 1 cylinder Yanmar Diesel Engines with a 3,600rpm governor.. I already made a rolling chassis it just needs the drivetrain, electronics and such.. I have a question though.. can these 40 series torque converters handle 18hp's? does it accept GY6 scooter CVT tuning kits or does it have its own CVT tuning kits?
Hey! I have a 420cc predator engine and was trying to purchase a 40 series TC for it but I don’t know which Driven Clutch I need (5/8" or 3/4" or 7/8"), please help!
You can't run a 40 series secondary with the spring outboard. The way you have it, as the primary closes, the belt moves up the pulley and towards the engine. But as the secondary opens, the belt moves down the pulley and away from the engine. You end up with SEVERE belt misalignment this way. China is selling 40 series drivens with the WRONG spring with the movable half wound the WRONG direction. It's not a 30 series TAV2. You can not mount it like one. Use a jackshaft and mount it properly. 20, 88, 40, 44, and 500 series (all symmetrical belts) need the secondary spring mounted inboard.
lazzer408.....yes that is what happened to my cart conversion set up had to reverse the drive clutch to the engine ,see youtube video 40 series torque converter in action for further info.
Okay everyone needs to stop with the misinformation. The driven pulley only needs to be installed inboard if your pulley has a red spring, if your pulley has the yellow spring like the ones from GPS this video is correct. The belt is lined up as soon as the belt engages.
I know its been a while since this was placed on here to view, but anyway you can tell me where I can purchase a cone washer as you called it and the bolt as well?
Torque converter belts will not hold up to high RPM. I build street legal vehicles with predator motors, and the fastest I was able to get up to was 70 miles an hour. With proper gearing and a centrifugal clutch. You will need to bypass the governor to get top RPMs.
Is there a way to move the output gear that is kinda on the inside, to the outside? My go kart needs the gear to be farther out to line up with the axle. Pls help
I know this is a old comment but to answer your question about the tilt of the motor and messing something up because of the tilt, no it wouldn't hurt a thing, my racing kart along with thousands of others run a 15° motor mount which tilts the motor up in the rear so that the carburetor clears the right rear tire and we've been doing it for decades. P.S. that's with the low oil level sensor removed or bypassed.
Im having an issue where my TC is not engaging into high gear (speading out) not sure why itll do maybe 35mph spins in the dirt. But wont open up and keeps tossing the chain and shes pretty tight also have tried lossening it but that made it worse 😂 any ideas would be greatly appreciated
@@Robinson-Homestead I appreciate the reply regardless, I figured the problem out the other night whilst riding the rear axle bearings were giving out and did the rest of the way. Assuming one side gave and the other didn't causing the chain to be tilted slightly knocking it off the teeth. New bearing and she's golden now. Does close to 52mph very happy with it and looking to change springs and weights this coming weekend
@@Robinson-Homestead Nice! I had a feeling because im from the area as well :) I just picked up a murray go kart yesterday and i cant wait to take it out for a rip!
Gopowersports is way over priced. Same clutch kit they get from Japan $100.00 and they price up to $400.00 they are a rip off. But you did a great demo for the beginners. 👍
I'm surprised people are running a 40 series setup like a TAV2. They don't work that way. It'll eat belts due to the mis-alignment at full shift. The belt rides up the primary (towards engine) and down the secondary (away from engine) as it shifts.
I've seen several installation videos now by different builder channels. All of them show install the way this guy did. Also, someone always says it's backwards! Does anybody have any hard data on this?
When the belt moves towards the engine and the other pulley moves the belt away from the engine they're lined up under full load. That's why the belt sits 3/8s of an inch crooked at idle. Works fine for me. No belt wear. Also that pulley being inward is only for red springs, yellow springs like gps aftermarket needs to be outwards.
Wow, Way wrong install of the driver clutch. Needs to turn around the other way for proper belt alignment when it runs through its range. Your way makes the belt flex crooked and robs power and wears belt sooner. Please check out Comet instructions.
if you tell a guy to use anti seize plz plz plz tell him to bring a wrench thos bolts will need resnugging ever 2-3 hr of run time i never use that stuff on aluminum
I was an engine machinist for about a decade and been wrenching my whole life and I've always used anti seize when dealing with mixed metals, especially when combining aluminum and steel. I use it always on sparkplugs for sure!! I've never had to re-tighten anything afterwards!
