I knew that the Hemi engine was different. But I had no idea how different. You really need to build one for the channel. A series of videos on the build.
Not enough of the folks left, that actually lived and drove with these engines. The ones still around, are getting on in our years, and forgetting a lot of the little quirks of specific engines, until we are blessed enough to come across someone with problems like this. Makes the memories come back fast. You will play hell chasing stuff all over the interweb, and never find that one hidden and forgotten quirk that finally fixes it. It takes the grumpy, ornery, old man to educate the interweb experts.
"An engine is an engine" is something I say often. It's true until you get into the details. The average guy can assemble any engine. The truly neurotic, obsessive, unrelenting attention to detail is needed for these "exotic" engines. Luckily, Uncle Tony is that guy. Man, I'd love to see UT build a hemi and beat on it like it ows him money.
It's the specifics that makes a master. I'm still 20 years on with 80s and specifically Mopar EEKs, and I'm still learning quirks. I've also archived about a dozen of pre 95' turbo Dodge specific websites. I don't trust digital. Some shit, the link is so old is was never trawled. AOL95 dial up shit
If you reverse the clevis pin on the brake booster and put a hairpin clip facing the inner fender makes it easy to remove the booster and master cylinder to the side, makes it easy also to change the #7 plug.
Well this is cool. I've heard a lot about the hemi but I've never watched anything about it. Just watched a teardown video on the newer 6.2 ford with the 16 spark plugs and one of the comments mentioned that there was similar architecture to the 426 hemi. Those great big valve covers look similar to me! Another comment mentioned similarities to the Ford 427 cammer. I just bought a 2012 with the 6.2 so it's really cool to learn about the heritage of the engine.
So glad i found this channel. Did my apprenticeship in the 80s and 90s on datsun and nissans in Australia. Rebuilt a lot of engines did all the old school stuff. I have a lot of watching to do seen a few episodes and I know I'll love it great stuff
I’m 68 years old and I knew several friends who are not with us anymore that owned Hemi cars and they very seldom ran right but when they did they would put you in the seat.
I work on a 69 Hemi Roadrunner once that had pertronix ignition, and that was the problem, the distributor was an original dual-point with the conversion kit in it, the problem was is that the pick up would go out of phase with the vacuum Advanced hooked up, the new style pertronix relies upon the points lobe as the reluctor and it just doesn't work properly
folks say "ground with too much advance" but it's really "drilled with too much advance" i.e., it's the rotational position of the cam bolt holes and dowel pin relative to the ground lobes, really, that is influencing that.
I only use sealer or gasket shellac on the side of the gasket that sticks to the removable side, so like the covers will come off with the gasket stuck to it not the head...
Thanks Unk. Very interesting. On the timing of the #6 rockers. It seems to me you could get a ball park idea by setting equal lash amounts at tdc on the valves and comparing their closure with crank rotation
Those engines were originally designed for serious NASCAR racers and need to be set up , adjusted and percicely tuned because they are not forgiving like most passenger car engines. They run great for the people that know them inside out but most back yard guys need some tips to get the most out of them and keep them togeather .
When ever a customer brought their Datsun into my old work with driveability issues due to tune, the first thing checked was cam timing, especially if head had been removed at any time. 7/10 would be wrong.
Put silicone on the gasket surface. Smooth it out and keep it thin and even. Then let it dry. You can then take the valve cover on and off and it won’t leak.
@@Cstoreri sad but true, another sad reality is that this car will probably be driven only 20-30 miles a year with half the miles going on and off a trailer.
No, that motor should come out and not only gone through but also a correct solid lifter cam installed for period correctness. I know I wouldn't have any confidence in the build after seeing what I see there.
Uhh tony.. My amc 360 valve covers were sealed with rtv by someone.. and a simple rubber mallet bang it wouldnt come off.. i had to pry every corner with my screw driver.. bending the cover to get it off.... so this csn happen to normal sized valve covers
that will do it...!....check the mechical advance in the disturbertor ...just incase there frozen ...seen that alought...!..beutiful car,,,wow...wwwway outa my price range...plus like u said...were could u drive a car like that...?
The solid lifter intake pushrods are 0.282" longer than the hydraulic lifter intake pushrods and the solid lifter exhaust pushrods are 0.281" longer than the hydraulic lifter exhaust pushrods. Sometimes they'll work, sometimes they'll throw the geometry off a bit. I wonder which pushrods are installed with these hydraulic lifters.
I'll add to that. They used the solid lifter narrow pad rockers in this engine. Hydraulic lifter engines don't give the tip of the rockers any breathing room to re-center themselves , which is why Chrysler went to the wide pad rockers in 70 along with the shorter pushrods. I looked to see if there were any blue marks on the pushrod cups, which would indicate contact with the bottom of the rockers, and didn't see anything.
@@UncleTonysGarage Yes, but the large pad rockers also became the service replacements for the solid lifter engines, using the solid lifter pushrods. The length of the pushrods goes with the type of lifter, not with the type of rocker arms. The pushrods for the hydraulic lifter 340 T/A are also shorter than the solid lifter 273 pushrods. The 340 T/A pushrods are 0.266" shorter than the 273 pushrods.
There's no detriment to using wide pad rockers on a solid lifter engine, but there is one in using narrow pad on a hydraulic. As for pushrod length, I no longer have any Hemi rockers in my possession to make comparisons with, but I'm pretty sure the reason for length difference has more to do with the rocker than the lifters.
@@UncleTonysGarage The pushrod length is different for the lifter type. Even the B and RB specified pushrod lengths for adjustable rockers are different for hydraulic and solid lifters, with hydraulic lifters always calling for shorter pushrods. With the big blocks, that don't have the offset lifter angle the small blocks have, the length difference is also 0.281".
The well of knowledge about these engines is small, and shrinks daily...these little issues are why I wouldn't spend a dime on old, worn OE hemi stuff. I hope that there is still a old pro around to teach me a few things when I'm screwing my 528 together...this would be a very expensive learning curve.
Sounds like the lifters are shot. Probably the last guy over tightened the adjustments to make up for lifter rattle. What a shame that a car with THAT much effort put into it, didn't get normal engine treatment.
@@mromatic17 nice choice man. For a truck? Mine is 74-76 F-250 4x4 longbed sitting on like 36 inch super swaper tsl’s 🤘oh! And its gotta be a manual. 4speed.
@@New_Jax_City nice i'd love a highboy! my grandpa had a 1976 f-250 4x4 360 4 speed but sold it in like 2005 i think. I should've bought it. I wasn't super into old trucks back then but today I'd kill for it.
