Awesome! Hands down, my favorite homemade DIY sawmill build. If I ever get around to build one, like I said, I’ll be using these videos. Thank you so much. Joe Texas.
Thank you. I poured over many sawmill videos including commercial saws to learn what I was getting into. Other peoples failures and successes allowed me the luxury of first try success. I have also learned that seasoned sawyers experience problems that I an sure I will face at some point. I am so glad you found something useful in my videos. Thank you for watching!
Fun episode Steve! Jake (my dad) built a sawmill back in the 80s. He dropped and milled all of the lumber for several outbuildings and renovations on the old farmhouse that I grew up in. Brings back memories. Maybe I’ll build one one day too?!
Thank you so much. Took the saw apart, painted and trailered out to the Mountain. Set up and cut first log from our land yesterday. fb.watch/v/5vX3b7l3-/
Thanks! Most saws are built with the drive pulling the blade. Pulling keeps the blade under tension and straight when pulled through the cut. Pushing the blade will at least cause a harmonic and worst-case bunch up the blade ahead of the cut. At least that is my take on how things work. Thanks for taking the time to comment and thanks for watching!
Some nice welding on the cant hook. Really like your pulley system to drive the blade. Those drum covers for a guard are a great idea. I would never have thought of it. I want to build my own sawmill as I have easy access to trees and the price of lumber is getting insane. Some great ideas here.
Thank you for the kind comments. The drum covers saved a lot of time and money… idea came from an image of a circle saw blade dust cover. Most of my build was salvage or repurposed materials. Building your own sawmill is fun and lets me use trees I need to clear. Hate wasting things. Good luck on you build and thanks for watching!
I made some initial drawing to determine blade wheel centers and height to clear a 28-30 diameter log (which I will never do). After that what I could find for cheap or existing material and a path of least resistance guided the build. If you watch the series of videos on this build, you will have better plans than I had. Thanks for watching. Here is the playlist for the sawmill videos ru-vid.com/group/PLqbvRJ6oY7GQpE3smgtqQbJG2fqIGTyTz
Reminds me of my ole woodland mills hm 130 except yours is built way way much better. I should call them up and tell them this is the way they should’ve built to start with. FFS
I'm impressed that you didn't have wavey cuts in that knotty log for your first time cutting...saw is very well tuned in...have you considered welding a nut on to the tensioner handle like woodland Mills does for a tourqe wrench to keep tension consistent?
A free log from a tree cutting service. I did spend the time to ensure everything was squared, leveled and blade was running on band wheel crowns without contacting the blade guide roller shoulders. The blade guides were set for down pressure and no shoulder contact. I have found that at the point the tensioner thrust bearing just goes below the surface of the tensioner housing the blade tracks and makes a wave free cut. The Bellville washers in the tensioner appear to indicate a repeatable tension without using a torque wrench which I felt may inject potential error in blade tension. Ultimately using a tension gauge to the specific blade manufacturer tension spec is the only way to take the guess out of a correct setting, then ensure tracking is correct. Thank you for the comment, thank you for the question and Thank You for watching my video.
Think I would move the double idler pulley over and eliminate the idler pulley this way you will get more life out of your belts! Any reason for the idler pulley? If you put your motor on a slide you can eliminate your slip clutch. I own a lumber mate 2000 and this is a upgrade I am making I heard that these clutches go one guy has changed his a couple times.
The idle pulley tensions the belt driving the drive sheave for the blade. As the drive belt serves to drive and provide the “tire” for the band blade, that belt is consumable but is cheap and appears to last quite a while so far. The clutch is heavy duty. It is essential to never let a centrifugal clutch fall below lockup rpm in use as it will slip and wear out. Properly locked at rpm, there is no wear. The clutch was a cheap eBay find for $150 for a $600 clutch and made a cheap and easy transmission.
You, Sir, are a genius. I salute your creativity, your grasp of engineering, and your fabrication skill. I am curious as to why you felt a need to include stupid music in this video. I mean no insult to your musical tastes. I am a musician and a fan of several styles of music. ANY music forced over an instructional video is horribly distracting. I would have much preferred to listen to the saw run, but maybe I’m weird. The music comment is in no way a criticism of your video. You are a craftsman. I have subscribed. That’s something I rarely do.
Sorry the music was distracting for you. I am not a video editor and attempting to be like so many other RU-vid creators somewhat floundering in a difficult process. Copyright limits me to using RU-vid certified music. I understand how my choice may alienate some of my audience or cause a distraction as you have experienced. I imagine I will use much less music in my videos. I am not really trying to create instruction and more trying to document my projects as pay-forward for the many videos I have watched to collect ideas. I value your feedback. Your subscription is a reward I greatly appreciate and will always try to improve my video quality to earn that reward.
really nice job on mill and cant hook it's better than most of them. is it based on woodland mills if it is you have made a better one. take care, be safe and well.
Thank you for the kind comment. The is indeed similar appearance to the Woodland Mills machines. However, there are many similar shaped machines that share a number of similar features. A welded side frame ensures bolts do not loosen up over time and create accuracy problems. Otherwise, my mill was an exercise in using parts on hand and buying as little as possible. Thank you for watching!
Well done! Congrats on your very successful first run! I have followed your build closely, as I am prepping to build my own. You have very cleverly solved a lot of common issues, your machining is meticulous, and the end result speaks for itself. I loved the ingenuity put into the blade guides adjustments, the pulley system, everything is excellent.I noticed something I was wondering if you have/had contemplated- your cam arms on your dogs stick out, and if/when you mill a larger log, it pushes your dogs closer to the side rails- won't your cam arms block the trolley movement? Do you think that will be a problem, or do you have a solution? And secondly, I have a question regarding your pulley crank set up (and maybe I missed your explanation) each hole on the disk the set screw can slot into, does that represent a measurement of blade height? As in- one "click" up results in 1/4" blade raised? Did you make a system to know how many clicks equals how many inches? Thanks!- Jon
Thank for watching and thanks for the comment. The handles on the log clamps never touch the frame or come close to the saw carriage in use. I did build the cams with too much travel. I just close the handle half way before pushing the dog tooth over to the log and that has been working great. The tooth often has to be pried with a stick to pull it out of the log. On the lift system, the lead screw I used is four threads per inch. The cable system doubles the screws movement (1 inch of screw movement lifts the saw head 2 inches.) I have 16 holes in the hand crank plate. You can use the holes to make measurement. I so far have just measured the blade to wood edge for my cuts. The height adjustment never moves after set I don't think the lock is really necessary. I have an 8 inch digital linear scale I could add to the machine, but will probably just attach a 3 foot ruler to the saw with a movable indicator.
It does weigh a lot. But as a machinist I have noted that heavier machines have less flex and smoother cut. Thank you for the comment and thanks for watching.
I am sorry, there is no plan for the sawmill. I just worked things out as I went along using materials laying around. Other materials were scrounged from pallet rack salvage. The channel for the backbone of the saw was a want to buy ad on social media. I am happy to answer questions if that will help.Thanks for watching.
@@braziltop10 there are s lot of RU-vid videos suggesting many alternate ways to build a sawmill. Let friends know you intentions an needs materials and help could appear. Be willing to change plans as parts become available. Lots of good parts in wrecking and salvage yards and sometimes neighbors have junk laying around that could be you treasure...even traded for things you need. Always think outside the box.
Well...my cost was under $1000 and includes some material that did not get used when plans changed. I already had a 17HP engine which saved considerable cost...then there is time and labor. You stick your own price on that. I have learned a lot building my own saw and do not have to rely on manufacturer for parts or support. As to building for sale...no, there is a lot of competition out there and maybe patent concerns when building for sale. When you build for yourself, things like that are no concern.
@@SpencersMountain I love your attention to details, your design and build is absolutely the finest sawmill on utube. I am a machinist and an accomplished fabricator myself and I can appreciate all of the little things that make yours the best. I especially liked how you ground the ways. Thank you for sharing your work. e best ever. I especially liked how you ground your tracks. Yo
@@billosthoff6044 Bill, that is high praise coming from a machinist and accomplished fabricator! I took a bit of flak for grinding the bed rails. To me, it was more an exercise in "how can I do this on my own (and cheap)". The whole build was mostly an exercise of "I have parts, what can I make with them"? But, I wanted the machine to be grounded enough that others could see themselves building one of their own...maybe not like this one, but their own vision. Thank You so much for watching and taking the time to comment!
