Hi Charlie. Yet another wonderful video - it's amazing how much difference the black wash makes, really bringing everything together. I can't wait to see the viaduct when it all comes together!
I watched this when I was 5 and just started my first OO professional railway know im coming back to actually make the models and look at my one and make it.the series not the episode
Another very helpful video. In the next few months I will have an abandoned stone bridge to make, and I have been pondering how to paint it for ages. I have an idea now thanks to you. Barry.Devon.
Another good video .I found this viaduct a nightmare to build. A tip that a good modeller gave me was to use charcoal pencils to bring out the stone work it worked a treat and looks very effective rubbed over the plastic brickwork and rubbed in with a finger. I also found the finished product was uneven. look forward to the next video.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Hi Charlie .My viaduct was five arches .I found the finished model was curved and rebuilt the outside piers with some plasticard to level the model then I laid 2mm cork sheet across the whole viaduct before placing the track .I also added more brick sheets to give the effect of a king pier in the middle which is prototypical of the viaducts on the settle and carlisle which my layout is based. Look forward to your next video
Charlie, If the viaduct model was intended for use as a vehicle roadway, I believe there should be a slight curvature to the roadway for drainage. Looking at any vehicle bridge, you'll see it. Railroad bridges with no floors can be flat since the water can go right thru it and drainage is not required. I believe there is always a slight curvature to compensate for stresses under load. Approaches to the bridge could have been sloped to meet the curvature of the bridge eliminating the need to modify the model itself. Another example of this are flatbed semi trailers. The frames are pre stressed in an upward arch, in the unloaded condition. When loaded they "flatten out" and the frame stresses are now in a neutral stress condition which extends the life of the trailer. The amount of curvature may be argued but I believe there should be some there. I could be wrong though, I'm no structural engineer.
A fair point and very true of steel bridges. On stone structures I’m no so sure. It doesn’t change my mind on the worn/poor quality mold of this product.
I'm not sure either when it comes to stone structures, especially when it comes to railroad bridges. But I have seen similar stone bridges that are arched. It was just a thought I had. As far as the quality of some kits go, I agree, some aren't that great. I got a water tower kit that was warped such the halves would not meet. They can have misleading labeling too. I got an oil platform kit that had a warped platform not to mention other parts that were also warped. What really upset me on this kit was the fact that the labeling actually showed 2 kits put together but it did not indicate this on the box. It stated that you could put multiple kits together but not that what was pictured was actually 2 kits put together. I thought I was getting what was pictured on the box and I wasn't. In both cases, I complained and received replacement kits. That was nice but I shouldn't need to complain in the first place. @@ChadwickModelRailway
Hi there. Really love your videos & your work, it's quite inspirationnal. Though, if I may give a bit of advice, I would rather paint the stonework with five different but close stone colors using the range from Vallejo's Model Color & Panzer aces. The basic 'stone' colors I like to use are the Model Color's "London Grey", "Basalt Grey" and "German Grey", mixed with Panzer Aces colors in shades of brown, sometimes adding a bit of blue or sandy yellow depending of the type of stone. Once the stones painted, I then apply a wash using either Model Air Concrete (ref. 71.131), Panzer Aces Splinter camouflage base (ref. 70.345) or Model Color's Off white (ref. 70.820). This wash will also smoothen the transition between the different tones of stone by leaving a thin mist of paint on top of the stones acting like a "filter". Once dry, you can highlight the stone texture by drybrushing some off white before weathering the stonewalls using Vallejo's model washes and weathering powders. This is a technique I used many times when painting buildings for my belgian model railway club (www.alaf.be) and also shown both at open door days & in Ally Pally at the stand of the Model Railway Club London of which I'm aso a member. For more info on those colours check their website at acrylicosvallejo.com/en/categoria/hobby/ Hope those informations will prove helpfull, and thanks for sharing your expériences with us, as they're really usefull to many of us, myself included. All the best, Eric Sainte, Liège, Belgium.
Wow Eric, what a great response. I’ll be at the Warley show this month and will certain look into Vallejo’s various paint options which you have mentioned. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, great video you must lots of patience to paint those bricks but I really like the effect lose the brown it pops out to much use a darker brown, but the overall effect looks good. I look forward to seeing what else you are going to do to wall and viaduct. Regards George...
Good heads up on that viaduct, something i am getting in the future. Amazing what some simple weathering does. I should have a new video out in a few weeks time weathering brick slaters plasticard for my platform edging. Got some good ideas in my head, may have ago using some you've done here also. Tim
Just wondering if the brickwork has a repeating pattern that you can use to paint specific bricks within that pattern with a specific colour? And would that even make any difference to the appearance. Nice work.
Hi Charlie great video. I'm just painting a couple of tunnel entrances at the moment and I'm now at a stage where I'm ready for a wash to make it looked weathered. But before I make a mess of what I've done so far I just wondered what colour wash you would recommend. The colour of my bridge is limestone so quite a pastie yellow. So is it still a grey wash to give it a weathered effect or would you recommend something different? Cheers Gary.
Great video. The stonework looks great. with regards to the curve in your bridge, if that is plastic, could you heat it and try to set it straight? If you did a video on how you made that bridge, I would love it if you could send me a link. Thank you
Very informative as usual Charlie, thank you. I'm glad to see I am not the only one who has had probs. with Peco products, kinda feel they need to up their game a tad.
Did you find that the Humbrol Black Wash dried out a bit glossy, I’ve experimented with using various shades of grey and picking out various blocks but was a bit disappointed with the finish after the black wash. Roy W
Charlie were did you get your cutting mat from as I've got one but it is small about a 4 would like one that you have as I could do more bigger things with it when I start building my model railway I will use craft paints and art brushes from the orange ie the Range as well as other brushes what you would use for house decoration look forward to your next project very interesting at coming across yours Darren
If you ever run into this problem being flat again just warm the bridge in an oven not too hot but very warm take it out and put something flat and heavy maybe a board and a couple bricks and let cool.
I'm scratch building a viaduct out of cardboard but I think I'll just print out brick to stick onto it. I'm modelling a blue brick viaduct from the GCR.
Hi Charlie, excellent techniques and valuable information as always. Around 11:59 you mention Engineers Blue for brickwork. I’ve been trying to simulate that but can’t get a good colour match. Can you recommend a source?
Well done Charlie ,I did think at first you had blown it ,but it came good at the end, I did like the humbrol black wash ,never seen that before,only the powders,so gonna look out for that,would it need to be sealed with acrylic varnish when finished? Thanks for another great vid,hope to see you at warley Regards john@lincoln
Looked at all of you’re video updates and been following for a while now. Top modelling and very informative. Walls are something I was afraid to tackle but watching many many videos on the tube gave me the courage to tackle it. Not sure about the darkness of that brown or indeed the black but when the wash goes on, it transforms everything into context. Great tutorial and the way you explain and show the various stages are great. I am doing some kits now and have lots of walling to do so thanks again for this one....I have seen the missing pieces. Mine is N gauge by the way so good eyesight is crucial. Thanks again and enjoy your break...cheers
@@ChadwickModelRailway I agree with this one. I don't see what the problem is with the curved bridge unless you're afraid of uncoupling, which happens on my RR because I haven't maintained my couplers for a while. But I think the slight curve looks kind of good. I don't think it's a flaw with the kit, I could be wrong. Awesome video. Thank you
Hi Charlie enjoyed this as I do all of your videos. Hope it’s ok I gave you a thank you on my latest update efforts on No Name Junction . Best wishes Paul
Many thanks for the shoutout Paul. I’m pleased that you’ve chosen to show your face. I found it a little difficult at first. Try to keep your eyes on the lens and not on the monitor. I’d drop your F-stop down to around 5.6. The depth of field really doesn’t have to be that great. That should allow you to use a lower ISO producing less noise. Good luck with your videos. Regards Charlie
Hey Charlie! Great video again. Loving the change from out of the box to good start. That wash made a great difference. How will the wash be for painting on top of do you think? I did start watching marklinofsweden recently too. You might like a few of his techniques :) Have a good week
Hi Simon, I’m sorry but I’m not going to cover block detection until my new circuits are complete. Maybe Rudys Model Railway channel can help. Regards Charlie.
As usual a great video Charlie. Very informative. Loved the drone shots. Be interesting to see how the finished product works out when you’ve adjusted it for the bow. Thanks for posting.
I’m sorry Phil but I just can’t find the receipt. They are made of thin flexible plastic and are 4 or 5 arches long. I bought them at a model railway show around 5 years ago.
Why send it back as a distorted item and ask for the part you ordered which was flat, why should we, railway modellers just accept what ever the business send out. You wouldn't buy a new car if they only came with 2 wheels.
