#470 

I don't know where Mr. Zero Labs gets his parts, but I get a lot of parts from aliexpress and banggood for pretty good prices. If you "will be doing the same thing soon.", you might want to start out with a complete ZVS induction heater. 1800 watt units start out as low as about $60.00.

@@frenchcreekvalley Thank you for letting me know Sir. I will take your advice on sourcing items needed for the project.

Yes well I don't quite yet have the knowledge to make a full bridge inverter as of yet so for now I'm having a great time with my "shitty" zvs induction heater

I'd call your reply very disrespectful. If you can't say something nice, don't say anything.

Just to be clear, I was commenting about "Durchgebaut"'s post. about that "ZVS is s**t ---".

Sometimes it is easy to forget that we all had to start somewhere :)

good for you! don't be disheartened. ZVS is also good. no switching losses.

+rwg42985 I shaved for my audience too!!! :P

what are u talking about. he made a design for an induction heater.

I realize this. Working on it. Thanks for following.

Ordered Monday. Should be here today!

That's great. Looking forward. :)

twitter.com/0_Labs/status/915742236108869632

:D ... Is it even more beautiful in person? You behold a piece of functional electronic/physics art! ... Yes, I am jealous, looking forward to your implementation and observations. B

Hello Rick, I have been experimenting with using a ZVS device to make steam, for home heating and to run a small steam engine. See my RU-vid channel here: ru-vid.com My testing indicates that there is a lot more BTUs being admitted to the testing room, than is represented in the input energy: Input voltage- 120V AC at 60 Hz at 4 amps (E field) = 480 watts/hr. The secondary output: 40V AC at 50Khz at 500 amps = 20 Kw/hr. of Electro-Magnetic Oscillations (waves) (EMO) (B field). The B field, acts at 90 degrees to the E field. Apparent COP = 41.6. When the B field comes into the vicinity of Ferrite materials, the iron atoms start to vibrate violently, causing BTUs to be thrown out of the “Sea of Energy” enveloping all matter. I am having severe overheating problems on the secondary. The #10 stranded electric wire, supplying the coil is melting the plastic coating. Your suggestion of submersing the equipment in mineral oil seems like a worthwhile consideration. Thank you for the idea. Chuck Bagwell, Erie, MI.

Yeah dude, I see that he didn't see your response but those are awesome points there. In addition to that, the input capacitors are also worsening the power factor, which we get penalized for. I'd like to see your view. Since it's not right to send RF in the power lines, would it be ok to put some tiny value cap after removing the rectifier and the 3500uF? I'm in a similar project, but I'm constructing an induction cooktop. So what's your view on that? And any suggestions for my project?

well, you still need the rectifier without the 2 big caps. dont worry about PF. if they do penalize you for that it is almost insignificant. all the appliances in ur house with motors have low PF. so dont worry about that. and yes you can make a simple L/C EMI filter at the input before the rectifiers.

Clamps transient over voltage from destroying the MOSFET.

Hello Tim. I am not the original poster of this video. But I did try turning my 2500 watt Chinese ZVS induction heater on with metal in the work coil and it worked okay. Here's what I did: I first apply power mains power to my DC supply and wait for it to be ready for full power (about 4 1/2 seconds) Then I placed a 2 1/2 inch diameter thick wall aluminum tube fully into the 10 turn work coil which has a 2 5/8" inner diameter. I then switched on the DC power to the circuit. In this case, the total DC amperage went to 17 amps. I didn't see any "spiking" of the current as I did this, so I think it will work just fine. When I removed the aluminum tube from the work coil, the current dropped to about 6 amperes, which is normal "idling" current for that setup. My other experiments with Chinese ZVS induction heaters can be seen here: spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000WattZVSInductionHeaterNotes.htm Pete Stanaitis ----------------------

I apologize if it seems that I am hijacking this post. But I have answers to some of these questions here: spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000WattZVSInductionHeaterNotes.htm

Not my video, but I did work in the high Vacuum heat treating industry years ago. Answer: No. We didn't melt steel there, but we did melt copper and heat things up to about 2300F on regular basis. We used the melting point of silver to check instrument calibration, by the way. Nobody ever told us to adjust for the vacuum (which usually was in the 1/10 of a micron range.)

My glovebox could never hold that vacuum. Nor could anyone work with gloves inside a vacuum.

12" long x 1" bar stock requires 2 KW. 1" x 1". 36.37 seconds/inch; 436.46 secs/foot

John Conrad Many thanks. This helps me a lot.

By definition, this *IS* an oscillator based circuit.

None. The whole point is to size the caps to not exceed the max voltage rating at resonance. This is calculated from the tank circuit impedance at resonance.

54KHz. Insulators are aluminum oxide. I do plan to make some of my own ceramic forms.

Ceramic forms... u said it. use pieces of ceramic tiles or get some 4"x4" small tiles for

I have seen it. With all due respect, that is not the direction I am going. I need to remain focused here.

+Kyle Micallef My tank resonates at 54KHz give or take a couple depending on the load material placed inside and temperature. When I say "locked" that means the PLL oscillator found the peak resonance and locked onto that frequency. It then stays locked even as conditions inside the work coil change. For instance, as steel heats, when it reaches the Currie temperature, it becomes non-magnetic. That loss of magnetic permeability changes the inductance of the coil and the resonance of the tank. The PLL circuit follows those changes to stay locked at peak resonance. You're going to hear me talk a lot about Currie temperature as the experiment progresses as it's an important factor in the manufacture of the alloy.

And where might that be?

he doesnt say where... another wild goose chase

lower the frequency larger the object to experience equivalent field. And you need more of those expensive caps.

1) Much more likely to sublimate the metal, 2) More difficult to control the temperature during the cool-down phase, 3) Atmosphere around the molten metal impossible to control using a gas flame with water byproduct.

ok makes sense

What do you need to heat? (I am not Mr. Zero Labs, but I can suggest some contacts). email: spaco@baldwin-telecom.net

I need to heat a human sized gas container. I don't want to build it, I want to buy it.

@@harlolindo7749 I suggest that you gather some more specific information- -Exactly how large is the container? If you are describing a propane cylinder, what size is it? -Verify that the container is made from steel, not brass or copper. -Do you want to heat the whole thing, at one time or just some portion of it? -To what temperature does it need to be heated? How rapidly? -If your application is not a "secret", be prepared to discuss your goals.. Then contact a company such as: www.inc.com/profile/ameritherm-inc or: www.ambrell.com/ or: radyne.com/ There are, of course, Chinese companies that make or resell larger induction heating units, such as: www.alibaba.com/product-detail/25kw-50kw-80kw-100kw-120kw-160kw_60018066977.html? and: spm=a2700.7724857.normalList.1.2ee2e886mvZFl6&s=p I have no connection with any of the above, except that our blacksmith club had a demonstration put on by the Radyne people several years ago, and they seemed like nice people. Many people buy a Chinese Induction heater that can produce about 7.5 KW (even though it is sold as a 15 KW unit). Here is one example of that product offering, but you might need more power that this one can provide: www.amazon.com/Frequency-Induction-Furnace-Silver-Copper/dp/B00WHU96P6

I need to heat a mixture of iron and gallium to form an alloy and cool it gradually starting from one tip of a crucible to the other. See ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2xjhK2aSV1E.html

What's your point?

What I mean, it is with only 1.5 kW can get as much power into heat..

1.5 KW is what u get from the 120VAC mains. so what are u saying? 1.5KW..... and????

There would be NO heating advantage. Nothing "cheap" about it. The electrical energy needed to run the circuit is the source of the heating power. One could just simply buy an electric heater and get the same heating ability. Regarding Tesla, etc.: There is so much knowledge to be transferred these days that it is no surprise to me that Tesla wouldn't be covered. But I think that depends upon which classes were available and which classes you chose to take in school. Do they even have "electric shop" in high school anymore? Pete Stanaitis ---------------------

Once iron and steel reach the curie temperature they too become nonmagnetic. Mine will operate at 3KW from household current when I switch from 120VAC to 240VAC. It would be nice if you open sourced your design.

Boy, was that an educational post or what? I'll bet you don't have many friends. You better hope that you never get "old"!