thanks again im a licensed technician own an automotive shop, do lots of mercedes repairs, i ended up needing to reprogram an esl for a c350 so i went head first into locksmithing, i have complete suite of programmers and scanners, just bought a 2m2 magic tank and now with your help in training im def buying a set of lishi picks/decoders. now im truly unstopable lol
I am freshly cooked too:) from IT , programming , electronics background .. Long story short. I thorough 'mechanical manual' precisions lock picking... Will be easiest part..... Spen whole week with few hu66 gen 1&2 locks, with little luck sometimes turn. Decide to buy hu64 merc lock without key for training. No chance to open this lock for me, when doing bottom or top tension bar moves and I thing is all set, then changing to opposite and feel very hard tension to click anything, when trying loose the half of 'picked' clicks off. I really give up. Anyone help😂. ( on locksmith training I did ford lock whole day, I managed to turn one time with a lot of support.. I don't know, I give up. Is there some people who own stoned hands😂😂
Should I put everything completely down or up to number 1 on lishli? Some wafers click twice. I really struggling with this stuff. I thinking to buy automatic... I can feel when pass the gate but overall I have no luck, no matter how I trying.
this tool is used to mainly make keys to cars when all are lost. not saying they're impossible to get they're only supposed to be available to locksmiths
@@BoredLockpicker I swear you make it look east I have a 1992 only manual keys all keys lost and MB won’t make new ones until I get the car there together with my paperwork, so watched you lishi 39 video and I didn’t make it lmao, still gotta try a second time
@@Koza_Cara it’s definitely easier in the comfort of my house than in the field. Hu64 isn’t as hard as hu39 too. That one can definitely be a challenge.
Awesome!I have two old school blind touch Lishis for HU92 and HU64 locks since 2017, yet have never been able to try them out(As I can’t find any Beemers or Mercedes at my local junkyard).
Greetings from Bulgaria .Hu64 is a hard lock do you oil lock before decoding.Some coleags say no if wafers are moving, but some use wd40 before decoding.
Nice Job!!! I love the dolphin, I only wish you can code cut commercial keys , Schlage Sargent, Kwikset, Yale, etc. by code WITHOUT decoding! IF you can drop the same request to CS maybe they will include that on future firmware updates.
I dont think they'll listen to me either. It seems like if a key doesnt have a silca part number it wont be in the database and sc1 kw1 and y1 dont have silca part numbers. I'm glad I noticed that it doesnt code cut single sided keys before I bought the jaw for them
@@BoredLockpicker I hope they would offer that in future soo easy for them to add thru S&D measurements, I know the system is geared toward auto and that it does very well.
My key cutter app has three different key cutting settings for hu64,s,the 1st cut is measured at three different points on the blade.How do i know which one to chose??There's hu64-P,hu64-2 and hu64-3!Thanks.
@@BoredLockpickerIt does,but it 'still' gives you a couple of options of where the first cut is on the blade??Which is confusing,think it has a blade at first cut 2650,and another at 2520,and another at 2470!!Its a European 2009 c160
Hi, Is it the same for the newer locks with 9 wafers instead of 10, I had a bit of trouble decoding one. Wasted a bunch of blades. Eventually I had to pull the lock, take it apart and read the actual wafers themselves.
The one in this video will work on the ignition. Others are just for doors. If the car doesn’t have an immobilized system then you could drive the car after picking the ignition on. The car this lock came from pre dates immo systems so you could pick it and drive it.
Maybe a dumb question, but I ordered the HU64 and it came with a stack of what look like thin key blanks, which appear about the same width as the key you cut, but have a larger bow. What are those for? I haven't seen them used anywhere. I'm coming up on my retirement window (2024-29) but expect I'll still have to work. I'd like my second career to be locksmithing, so am building out my tool kit and taking classes when I can.
They’re used by locksmiths in third world countries where they don’t have power on jobs. Here’s an an example ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VppdXtXwieg.html
Thank you for the great video. I have 1975 Mercedes with M79S (or MB18) key, and my question is what would be the best lishi pick tool or close to pick this type of locks? Appreciate you
I did a little research. I’ve never touched one of these old Mercedes’s. From the research. You may get lucky and find a code on the driver door lock. If not you would need to take the lock apart to make the key. Or this does use an edge cut key and you could probably impression it but I would be very careful due to the age of it.
On my old dolphin I don’t recall which one I used. On the dolphin 2 I haven’t got one to work but I’ve only tried two of them. I should probably find this lock and figure out which one works
Very nice videos, I am confused, I have lock without key, Mercedes C, W204, 2012 year, I couldn't pick by hu64, but open it with another toll (jiggler) and read with lishi hu66, chosen the car put the numbers in key tool max and get screen with blade hu126T, but according to info lishli tool for decoding is correct. I put new blade hu64 in XP005, machine probes and changes cut for 1.5mm, I decided to cancel the process. I am really confused about this stuff, any suggestions will be very appreciated form You, I am freshly licensed locksmith, and giving up with keys cutting. I am from IT and electronics background and thorough its will be the easiest part😳 thank You
@@BoredLockpicker I mind hu64, by mistake I wrote 66, I spend 2 days with trying.. When pick all top then many times I couldn't press wafers down, slightly release tension and some on the top jumps out and get into loop. I don't forcing the tool😂. When I selected merc C W204 2011-2014 then I getting hu126T blade in key tool max and XP005 connected 😳. Need more experience. Thank You.
Thank you very much for your amazing video like usual. But I have question, how you guarantee you gonna pick the master key bitting not the valet key bitting? I have a 1997 Mercedes W210 and only have the valet key which doesn't lock/unlock the trunk or the glove box, and wondering if I can convert it to be master key or cut new one. Appreciate you in advance Mr. Joe.
@@BoredLockpicker Thank you sir, but I asked my buddy, he is a locksmith, and told me that the valet key is made of special blank HU64, so to make a master out of valet key you need just to copy it on regular HU64 blank blade. I tried it today on my 97 W210 and it worked perfectly.
Will this tool work on the ignition key lock (tumbler) that belongs to a 1979 300sd (w116) Mercedes Benz? A few years back my key failed to turn the ignition switch and so I ended up having to tow my car home in a flat bed. It took me a few days to remove the old locking mechanism (steering lock and ignition). I had to order a new locking mechanism (tumbler and steering lock) and got stuck with a new ignition key that only worked on the new ignition but no longer worked to open up my door locks. Got stuck with two keys. I kept the old ignition with hopes that one day I could figure out how to get the key to turn it. To remove the tumbler, the ignition has to be in the correct position or there is no way that the tumbler can be removed. My hopes were to get the old tumbler out and transplant the wafers on to the new ignition. This would allow me to use one key for both the ignition and the door locks. Most recently, I ordered a new key from the Mercedes Classic Center (using my vin) with hopes that the newly cut key would work and would allow me to turn the ignition to the correct position. Tried the new freshly cut key and the ignition will NOT turn. So now I know for sure that a worn key was not the culprit and it is likely that the issue is within the tumbler (worn or stuck wafers). With your background and experience, what else can I do to get the ignition to turn? To get a better understanding of what I'm talking about please click on this RU-vid link. The video shows how the locking mechanism work in our classics. Any advice is greatly appreciated. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8D_SmpZfDmk.html
If lubricating and trying the key doesn’t work sounds like a broken or bent wafer. Of i we’re replacing the just the plug in the field probably would just force it over with a flathead/channel locks or drill. Both of which not allow any wafers to be reused. If you have it off the car and it’s trash anyway you might be able to cut it open with a dremel to access the wafers.
@@BoredLockpicker Thanks for the reply. The lock assembly is off the car. Going to try to go at it a few more times. Will be using an oscillating tool on a key to see if maybe I can vibrate a wafer that might be stuck. Just seems like a pick tool would work.
@@BoredLockpicker I only lost the key part, not the fob. It got detached somehow and gone. so now I am only on the wireless key. Was wondering if this tool can help decode from picking my door. I will have someone cut it. Any suggestions? 2013 Benz E class
@@kritikusi-666 This tool would work to pick and decode it. Takes a little practice. Authorized sellers are only supposed to sell to locksmith but that doesn’t mean you wouldn’t be able to find one somewhere.
