Welcome! I'm slightly better at picking locks than people that don't pick locks. This channel will have videos of lock picking and also some how to videos or demo's of stuff I've made for lock picking.
Off subject but remember us talking about hu198 lishi. Well, I tried it on about 8 2024 f250 and it does not go all the way in the door. But it does go into the ignition and it is pretty easy to pick. But I'm having trouble decoding. If I were to send you a very clear video of picking and decoding or what this looks look like to decode. Could you give some thoughts? You can use the video I will keep the audio off. Until I get into the decodeing. So I can explain whats going on. Maybe you can make a video out of it.
@@BoredLockpicker So the lishi has 5 as the deepest cut. But I ran the keycode on 3 other 2024 f250 He deepest cut is 4. So I am gonna assume thats the issue. What you think?
Yea I don’t think there is a 5 depth. Could be a mistake from Lishi. I’ve had that Lishi for several years. Didn’t see my first one til like a year and a half ago so maybe they released it prematurely
I was able to do it, but one of the spring heads broke off. It still works, but the cylinder is a bit looser. If you're going to do this, get their stupid tool. Screwdrivers can, and will break the tabs if you're not spot on or use too much force. Kwikset sucks.
Turn the key too far to the left and the plastic studs on the latch will fall off rendering the lock unusable. It will probably spill open in a fire if it gets turned over. Not much protection at all. Also, there is no gasketing to keep paper eating bugs out.
Never thought the day would come when Schlage would copy Defiant. However, considering how their plugs are now made from zinc, Defiants are actually better than today's Schlage locks.
@@BoredLockpicker yeah same kind of ignitio but say if slightly different with electric lead can just that part changed?? also can you build the inside of the lock to fit the key i mean can yu put different sizes i to the lock??
No idea on swapping the parts. I’d ask a mechanic. Far as rekeying it. I’ve never found wafers for motorcycle locks to be able to rekey them and I’ve actually looked.
Why do some fords follow one pattern and others follow a different pattern? Is there a resource I can look at to tell which fords follow which patterns.
I have this same lock and the day I got it and the day after I could pick it 3x in about 2:30, but last night and today it's so much harder for some reason. I've tried top and bottom tension and several sizes hooks. It seems like the pins are getting more easily overset. I've tried adjusting my tension as well and also starting on different pins. I've been trying for about the past 6 hours and have gotten it maybe 4-5 times. I'm sure it's probably something on my end, I just don't know what .. 🙄😅
it has a tiny amount of bounce to it. best way to develop the feel imo is get some locks with keys so you know the bitting and then you can tell what they feel like.
It's not necessary to use a specific sequence on the vw/audi ? Like 1-5-8-4-2-3-7-6 ? I have read this but dont know if it's true. I try to open a lock of vw passat 2010 with hu66 and for now i dont get a lot of success 😂
I wish you had shown the bounce/travel on the ones you didn't need to pick. You knew the depths ahead of time, but that's obviously not the case for a practicing locksmith. Did the 4 depths bounce consistently from the get go or did they slightly bind at first?
I am a locksmith. Use these everyday. What I recommend doing is getting locks that you have a key so you know the bitting and you then can develop a feel for what the 4 depths feel like. I didn’t touch them because I was. Trying to the hammer home the point that they don’t need to be picked.
Having a LOT of trouble decoding these. HU100GM also. I notice that your tool didn't line up with the depths, (in between) on some, so how did you decide which was the correct one? The tip about the 4 depths was golden. I'll have to try to make a note as to which ones never bind.
if doesnt go all the way to the next depth then you go with the lower number. use insta code or lockcodes code fill too. you can enter half cuts and it will tell you if you have valid bitting. also if it decodes real bad and you dont get a code then I will pick it the other direction and take a reading and compare them. extremely rare for me not to be able to get it figured out that way.
@@BoredLockpicker Only problem is that there is no way to run the BMW version in a code fill. No published codes. No way to use half depths. There is no MACS to help cut down the possibilities. I have tried to use the GM HU-100 series, but no go. Lots of BMW codes not shown in GM and vice versa. "if doesnt go all the way to the next depth then you go with the lower number" So your experience is that the tool reads HIGH? On odds and evens both? I have had some luck using "scissoring" but it's hard with only two hands. LOL
I missed your question referring to hu100R I was referring code fill on hu100. I’ve only made a few hu100R keys. I don’t do much bmw all though am getting more and more of them. So far I have only ever had a problem with one hu100R and I cut the lower number if I wasn’t sure. Believe it or not. Even in high security you put a little pressure on the key with pliers and you can get marks. Then you know what to cut deeper. The one I had trouble with I still only used one test key and had it figured out and cut the customers insert that some shitty lazy locksmith didn’t bother cutting.
@@BoredLockpicker Let me give you a tip that you'll thank me for! I had a BMW at the auction last year. 2016 5 series. Picked and read it. I was off (shallow) on one cut. The lock started to turn. I figured no problem, I'll impression it. Been there done that with HS locks for years. Nope. I turned it a tad too far and it locked up. Now the inner plug was stuck in the clutch plug. There was simply no way to remove the key. It could turn freely 180 degrees in either direction. Fortunately, they let it slide with a blade broken off. The only other option was to pull the panel, and remove the entire handle assembly. This was the type where the handle has a hole that passes over the top of the lock body. TIP: Be VERY careful when turning a BMW 100R. Theoretically, the same could happen if the key was cut too deep, although in that case it should clutch over and not break the shear line. If that had been a customer's car... Ugh!!!!
Would the steering lock being engaged on the lock make picking more difficult? Only asking as the likelihood of keys being lost and steering being lock is quite high.
I'm getting good with my auto lishi's (at least more confident and successful) but I still struggle with the Schlage and Kwikset lishi's. Very impressive how quickly you picked that lock, which saves the day with those levers and lost keys.
@@BoredLockpicker Yeah that's what everybody keeps telling me but for some reason I am just the opposite. For some reason they just feel strange to me on the picking. I always get a hard false set, but everything seems stuck after that.
It seems like you have to choose the correct Card number and ISN number on Instacode in order to get a valid key code. Can you please explain how to know which ISN and Card number to choose? Where can I get that information?
@@BoredLockpicker Yeah is that why they did it? I was thinking it was to get a better grab on the tool or something. One of my sellers showed a lineup of multiple lishis with that design. I thought it was a quality change didn't know it was for certain door handles
