Looks like you’re having “the resting of Job”. Know how you feel, endured plenty of it myself, they say if you have machinery you have problems. Only wish I lived a little closer and could give you a helping hand through this rough patch, maybe a few prayers wouldn’t go astray, I’ll give it a try. Regards from Down Under.
For manuals check farm manuals fast. Case IH still carries parts, also bates corporation is a good source. Depending on what you need lights/switches filters, local parts stores should be able to help.
@@rivervalleyfarm482 no the 240 has 4 speed transmission just like a Super C. Basically it's just newer version of a Super C or 200. I would like to get a 340 they are just enough bigger you can do alot more with them
@@rivervalleyfarm482 that would be nice to have mine is pretty much bare bones no power steering and only has fast hitch no hydraulic remotes but it was one of those cheap deals lol the more I work it the more I find out why it was cheap
I am thinking either of those C's you have might make for some interesting hay videos. Moving the rear wheels in some so they are more useful would allow you to try them on the haybine as well as the baler. Many a good C or Super C have embarrassed many a Farmall h. I have cut with a 9' haybine and baled with my h and it is far from anything special. I think those C's you have might surprise.
Hydraulics not actually needed. I have run my Hesston 9' haybine for the last 13 years with a simple manual ratchet mechanical cylinder whether I used the john Deere A, the Farmall M, or the Farmall h to run it. My guess is your C's will be more capable than my ole h after the videos I watched of them plowing so easily. Lower the haybine once when I enter the field and raise it once when I exit the field. Mowing pattern is roundy round just like outlined in any old sickle mower manual. The trike front end actually helps make the corners as sharp as you desire although I rarely strive for the true 90 degree turns that the old timers did with sickles when making turns. No hydraulics needed on my baler anyway. The "key important trick" is actually in the raking. An idiot on the rake will make for a long day baling. The key is do not make monster windrows bigger than your baler can handle in first gear with the hp you have at hand. Pushing the clutch in is not an option with no live PTO so all you can do is zig out of the windrow and zag back in after it catches up or kick the tranny into neutral with your foot if the windrows are too big. That said if you sized your windrows properly when raking it will be smooth sailing.
Hey mate, what’s happening? Have you managed to get that tractor back together yet? Hope things have smoothed out a bit for you and the disasters are being kept to a minimum.
