4L30E PWM Lock Up Rebuild 

Glad to help. Thanks for watching.

Glad I could help, thanks for watching.

Thanks for the tip, thats also why I take them apart and clean them.

Much appreciated!

Just pull the pump. Doubt it is the bushing. Are both dowel pins in there? If so you probably have a crank shaft problem.

Any time!

Thanks. Yes they are. The only difference between them is the thickness of the third clutches, so check those first. Also in this video I am putting the dished plate in upside down in the third drum, so when you get to it flip it over. If the band is burned , which is usually what happens. You need to put the Transgo bushing in the center support. You will need a press to do it, so if you don't have one you will need access to one. Put in the Superior K4L30E kit, at least both shift solenoids and the band solenoid. Use quality solenoids on this unit, don't let them sell you the cheap ones you will regret it. One of my subscribers, Polat Turk, suggested taking the metal strip out of a windshield wiper and cutting into strips, bending 90* to use as a tool to take apart the third drum. I never thought of that. You really need the line up tool for the pump, I prefer the one that goes around the stator shaft. I think I mention it in the video, if not just ask and I will give the part number for it. I think it is still readable on it. On the Superior kit, I don't put the springs on the valves, you can if you want to but do not put that black spring in under any circumstances. I only use it to seal the servo. I do the drilling mods to the separator plate also as these help with the burning of the band. On the Transgo kit I only use the bushing and line it up the way it says. Thanks for watching.

Hola

🤔🤔🚗⚙️🛠((?)) $$

🇺🇸 TUCSON A.Z👍🏻🙋🏻‍♂️🦻🏻

They are listed on Ebay, here is the first one I came across. Also can try WIT or Transtar. Links are in the description. www.ebay.com/itm/251717601990?hash=item3a9b89cac6:g:lSYAAOSw6lRaYQBe&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4KVnJVXDCUDNdxpqGCnfbsUwlQ7ut2LiQAoUUgZEABzZkX2yFMODb2STLwISCqJ%2BmAtjCMR075%2FIqUMqN5XiVkE9bN39eeny%2FJhvtU4sxsWE%2F%2BDFDuA3f5uLnOp5mYvAH%2FpiD6fpDzg0H0SFZ%2FTmSjIMHLj0Wxoe1JmHoqfREU6S2NHLFmAFMStq%2FaoKyxPmur8NzOaCgqfbJGQ5hC7dk4aArh2dKkLuSols7u4d9c6LNzfkoTYekR907sdEJ6lkwPmYcVH%2BJdVqpToFIoavsUmTpkDBABebIhRrzRsFwGKE%7Ctkp%3ABFBMnNip55xg

Yes. The only thing I don't put in from the Superior kit is the springs. If you are putting in the bushing from the Transgo kit don't drill any of the holes he suggests, just use the bushing.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks for the info, your videos have helped me several times .. have a great day

Glad I could help, thanks for watching.

Band may be too loose. I set mine at about 4 and 1/2 turns. Book calls for 5. If you have not done it, put in the Superior K4L30-E kit. You can get it from Transtar or WIT. Links is in the description.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Will do and Yes, I did install the superior kit like in the video. Thanks for your Help.

Gracias

Got one made already. Should be all you need, if not let me know. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-96YZGeqX7Qs.html

I do not have a tear down video of one yet. I do mention it in the rebuild video but it needs mentioning again as it is that important. DO NOT under any circumstances use a pry bar to remove your pump, you will break the case and not know it till you are unable to keep the transmission from burning the clutches. Either use a slide hammer on the 2 threaded holes, or I use the input shaft and walk the pump out. If you want to see that watch the 5R100W disassembly video and I do it there, works the same.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Good Morning Tom Thank you so much, this helps me a lot, keep up the good work. Greetings from Vancouver BC

@@machupicchu9395 glad I could help.

I always put back what it came with. It is not unusual for them to send the kit with the wrong clutches. I have nothing that states what the clearance should be. I always look at it through the little slots in the drum and it usually seems a little much. Just guessing but I would say it looks close to .090-.100 to me. Usually the rule is .008-.012 per friction. I guess they assume if you use the right clutches your clearance should be right, not the only transmission that they do that with. So if it had the thin ones put back thin ones. The thick clutches also take a different thickness steel. I would have to look it up, don't remember the thickness.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission In that case I need to order the thin ones... Have a good one Thanks a lot

Not sure what you are talking about. It has a vent tube ,yes. But replacing that tube is not going to make it stop coming out of there. You have other problems that are making the fluid come out of there.

GM does not have tolerances published for this unit, pretty common for GM. They are a bit on what you could call the sloppy side. As a general rule you can plan on .008-.010 per clutch disk. The 4L30 runs looser than that. They use it as a cushion for the apply. You would think with 2 cushion plates it would be enough. .250 I would say is too loose. I bet it is more like .080-.100. I will look tomorrow in all my material and see if I have it listed, but I bet not.

Also, my memory just got jogged. There should be 7 steels and 6 clutches. I believe every model had that. I will look at that also.

Was wrong. 6 Steels and 5 clutches. Steels .084, clutches .098. You can use 200, 2004R forward clutches as they are thinner and add a steel and clutch to get 6 frictions if you want. No info on clearances.

No I don't. Never seen a difference doing it and not.

This transmission is really bad about burning the band. One area is the case where the pin for the servo goes through the case, it gets worn out and leaks pressure there. The Superior kit addresses that. The holes drilled in the valve body area are too help with that also. That or you need to bore and sleeve the case. The other area is the bushing in the center support. Since the drum does not use sealing rings but the bushing to seal wear in the bushing is sensitive, Transgo makes a bushing for it. Just don't do the drilling they ask for if you are going to do the Superior kit.

Thank you ! Tom for helping with your knowledge! Have A Good Night!

Dished plate in the 3rd drum is upside down. Did it myself in this video. In the description you will see that I made a note of it. Did not catch it before I posted this video. If you turn on captions in the video it should also show up in there also.

A few things cause fluid to come out the vent. Overfull of fluid, restriction in the radiator, overheating or pump problem.

Bare minimum of what I put in. L/S kit (Transtec w/Raybestos Clutches), filter (Filtran), pump bushing, thrust washers for the pump and support, band, Superior K4L30-E kit, Transgo kit (Use the bushing only, NO drilling that he recommends), both shift solenoids, band solenoid (factory solenoids), then whatever extra it needs.

Thanks a bunch. Now I'll look around for those parts first. Not sure if a trans rebuild is above my pay grade or not, only did a few old manual 4 speeds. Does Hastings make a book for this model? Thanks again.

@@andrewhering9417 Not sure. ATSG and ATRA do.

No sir, sorry. If you are needing a local shop go here and you have a better shot at finding a decent place. www.atra.com/ShopFinder

If you are talking about the ones for doing the 3rd drum, you can make your own out of a winshield wiper. If you are talking about for the valve body, make your own by cutting the heads off of some bolts.

I would look at the shift solenoids. Either a bad/restricted 2-3 shift solenoid. Orthe wrong solenoid in that location. Or the reverse clutch clearance is too tight. The pump whine could be from misalignment. What did you use to line up your pump?

@@CurmudgeonTransmission hello sir I used the torque converter and the Transgo alignment tool. I will look at the solenoids before I pull the whole transmission. Thank you so much. I did pinch a wire while tightening the small valve body in the front that controls the overdrive. Could that be why the overdrive doesn’t work? Thank you again.

I would use the tool before the T/C, it does not work very well. Possible.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you for your suggestions. I put new shift solenoids in and now it will not shift out of first unless the winter button is pressed.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I left the speed sensor unplugged. Dumb dumb moment. Thank you again

Open Omega A 1992. 2i(.c20ne )transmission (4l30e)

Opel

Your welcome.

sorry i was wrong

Check line pressure. There is a port just above the front pan, drivers side. If the line pressure is correct I would look at the manual valve and make sure you have the link indexed properly. If no pressure I would look at the filter,TC or pump.

ok I will do that sir and I appreciate you answering me back and I appreciate you're videos!

I don't know for a fact it will. Having said that as long as the worm tracks on the back match exactly you should be ok but you will not have a way to use your dipstick tube. There are 2 different plates on the back where the support goes and 2 different ones for the valve body in that case.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission it’s tough to make judgment because I’m comparing pictures only. The dipstick I’m not concerned to much because the later model check and fill from bottom of the pan.

@@funkyoldmedina4232 I have never paid attention but I think the passages are the same. I have not had to replace that case section before. Wish I could be more help. Don't even have any laying around I could check.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I appreciate all your input. Would you by chance know if there are places or companies I can check with for this type of hard part ?

@@funkyoldmedina4232 What part of the country you in, if even in the USA?

Putting in the Superior kit to fix 2nd, 3rd and band burn up problems.

Sounds like the clearance for the reverse clutches is too tight.

Took spacer completely out still tight

Have no end play in output shaft, and I'm using thinnest spacer, how do you create space

Thanks

Band adjustment could be your slip in 1st. Not going to be your reverse problem. You might want to check line pressure and see it it is correct. Port is above the front pan drivers side. 45-52 in everything except reverse is 57-65. Only thing they both have in common is the Overrun Clutch.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I have 100 psi in park steady needle , 125 in reverse (bouncy) 140 in drive ( bouncy )

Pressure is high. Try clearing codes even if it says no codes and see if the pressure drops.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I cleared the codes and pressure in park is now 65 but still high in other gears. I adjusted the band its shifting great what are the dangers of driving it with high pressures

How high are we talking?

Did you put the Transgo bushing in the support? May be upside down or not lined up. Missing check ball under the valve body in the overdrive housing, if it takes it. Only takes it if there are 2 holes in the separator plate. But it is usually accompanied by no reverse also.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I put in the one that came with the kit. I'm pretty sure it's in right. I was very careful with all the checkball. and the bathtub cutout gaset

Who's kit did you buy? They do not normally come in the kit.

I put my busing in according to this. www.omegamachine.com/pdf/4L30%20Center%20Support%20new.pdf

Since you did change the bushing I would double check it. Easy to put it upside down and that is the exact symptoms. First one I did I put it upside down myself. Could have sworn I had put it in there correctly.

Won't let me respond to your first post. You're not being an ass, good catch. Either I had a brain fart or something. All data does say the bevel goes down, but every other publication says it goes up. I also put it up on the On/Off rebuild video. Went and checked the only drum I have here and it is up on it also. So I guess I will be deleting this video as I do not know how to change it. Sorry about the mix up, no telling how many people I have screwed up.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hello, Don't delete it! Just try to add subtitles if you can, to correct it! Thanks for getting back on this Have a great one

@@machupicchu9395 Am trying. Got it fixed in closed caption but it is not showing up in the video. Will work on it later and hopefully I can get it straightened out. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.

Well it shows up IF you have subtitles turned on, doesn't if you don't. Guess I will just mention it in the description.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hello, Shows! when subtitles turned on.... Great Thanks

You will have about twice the resistance the opposite direction as it turns the whole gear train when turning that direction. What does the clearance measure in the main housing?

@@CurmudgeonTransmission no clearance, took spacer out still doesn't rotate like it should.

I am talking about the clearance for the gear train. It is set by the plastic washer between the 2nd drum and the support.

Had the black washer, I tried with no washer, once center support goes on tight rotation, that's were I'm confused, how do I not have space with no plastic washer in place.

H- gauge hasn't arrived yet for true measurement

Check the line pressure. If it has no line pressure, probably a broken pump.

If you are putting in the Superior kit there is an orifice cup plug that needs to be installed there.

Extra cooling is always a good thing.

If you are going to pull it out and put a converter in it you might as well open the unit up and make sure everything is good inside the unit while you have it out.

"More Power, ugh, ugh, ".....

They are not a very good transmission.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission But better than a CVT... It is remarkable, how expensive they are 'Stock'.... As many that were Sold, one would expect that there would have been, extensive Upgrades.. 'Stainless Hardened Drums, Gears, etc... ' I do not like so much being dependant on just a few seals, inside the Unit.... But still, better than Ford, which uses Plastic checkballs, which are 100% Guaranteed to Fail.. I do not like Newer Vehicles, everything is Plastic... Plastic and Heat, do not go together. I have an Older Vehicle which was in an Accident, I think I had rather Repair it, than Replace it, Newer Vehicles just are not Reliable, too many sensors, Computers, etc.. that Fail after 100k... Mine is an Isuzu. Just so much to Service on the Newer ones, the bearings are all so small on everything, etc... Which I saw those little bearings in that 4L30E, did not Like that.. If I had to Rebuilt mine, think I would go with a Shift Kit and High Quality Seals...? Besides before Long, Cars will not Run, if there is no WIFI or Cellular Service....?

It won't let me look at the video. Which spring are we talking about?

@@CurmudgeonTransmission 2001 4 valve TCC enable valve sping

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I made the video public see if that works

Still will not let me look at it.