4L60E Power Flow (1st, 2nd, 3rd, & 4th Gear) (Automatic transmission power flow) 

Doing my best. Thanks for dropping me a line! Much appreciated.

Right on! Welcome aboard! I'm currently working on a video that shows how the operation the 1-2 shift valve + solenoid. It shows oil flow throughout the applicable parts of the trans, valve movement, etc. Hoping to have it done today... Here's a 60-second preview of my latest project. 4L60E AFL Valve: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yfXdx6AkqjU.html Thanks for dropping me a line! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y3Vixa_Ec1E.html

Still seems complex but what a great breakdown

Basically ditto. He said what I wanted to say…I’m gonna stick with this so the ‘automatic transmission’ is no longer a mystery or some voodoo magic between the engine and the transfer case(in my situation) or drive shaft for many. Many thanks for this and I wish your channel well. 👏👏 👍👍

I've got plans to simplify these topics even more. Bite-sized... Thanks for your comment, Justin.

Appreciate you taking the time to drop me a line, Four Seasons.

Right on! It's a fun transmission to build. Thanks for dropping me a line! PS If you're interested in spreading the word about this channel...here's an easy way to share with friends, family, FB groups, automotive forums, etc. (Roughly 60-second video) 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Mvv5Cd2cVW4.html

Right on. Glad you enjoyed it. If you're interested in learning about the hydraulics, or the electrical... 1-2 Shift Valve: 4L60E: 1-2 Shift Valve + 1-2 Shift Solenoid (Part 1) Basic Operation ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jPhm76RDz6Y.html Shift Solenoid: 4L60E Shift Solenoid - Part 1 (Basic Operation) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FaChWmcsAgI.html 4L60E: PR Valve (Part 3) Torque Signal Oil Pressure (4L60E Line Pressure) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PY1trZeLqTM.html Thanks for dropping me a line.

Thank you for the feedback. That's great news. You're very welcome. Thanks for dropping me a line!

@@SouthpawAutoworks 1 year later - put 15K on the Reman Trans 4L60e. I'm planning to install a magnefine external filter soon. I did a fill tube "flush" 1 quart out/1 quart in after some gear shifting engine running - so mathematically I think that is 75% new fluid now. The engine seems to run smoother now and the 15K ATF had a slight burnt smell to it! I didn't see any metal though but since a TSB was sent out to add a 2nd magnet - I figure an actually Inline filter-magnet would be better. Any comments - planning on just removing the front cooler return line section and then using brass quick connectors with the e-clips for a flexible transmission hose connecting to and from the filter - resting on that splash guard.

Thanks for dropping me a line!

Hahaha that's too funny. Thanks for watching, James!

Thanks for dropping me a line.

Glad it was helpful!

Right on! If you're interested in learning more about how the 4L60E works, check out these videos. I'm still working on finishing this series...and I'd like to go back and re-do the earlier videos. Hydraulics: How it Works (4L60E) ru-vid.com/group/PLMK9OC5NGhbhvj11GajN0Mcg0k3YgsRK- The positive feedback is appreciated. Thanks for dropping me a line. Happy building.

No doubt! You bet.

Awesome. Thanks for dropping me a line.

Right on! Thank you for dropping me a line! Much appreciated. PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. Here's some easy ways to share... 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y3Vixa_Ec1E.html How the 4L60E valve-body works: (60-Second Preview) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fWPSaLeaOXI.html

You're very welcome. I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thank you for being here. Thanks for dropping me a line! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. Here's some easy ways to share... 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y3Vixa_Ec1E.html How the 4L60E valve-body works: (60-Second Preview) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fWPSaLeaOXI.html

Right on. When time permits, there will be more content like this. Appreciate you dropping me a line (and subscribing).

I feel the same way! Truly amazing... If you haven't watched em already, you'll probably enjoy the videos about hydraulics, too. Here's the latest... 4L60E Shift Solenoid - Part 1 (Basic Operation) Preview ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JXFjMlsqirs.html

Right on! Glad you enjoyed the presentation. Thank you or dropping me a line.

Glad you got some value out of the video. Thanks for dropping me a line.

Wow! Thank you for that.

I'm in awe of the engineering, too. The mechanical, the hydraulics... All of it is wild. Appreciate the feedback. Thanks for dropping me a line.

Right on! I'm excited for you. Thanks for dropping me a line! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. Here's some easy ways to share... 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y3Vixa_Ec1E.html How the 4L60E valve-body works: (60-Second Preview) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fWPSaLeaOXI.html

Positive feedback is always appreciated. Thanks for dropping me a line!

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for dropping me a line, 1320pass.

Both wrists and an elbow!? That must've been a difficult recovery...from two hands, to no hands. Glad you're back to wrenching. Complicated....I totally feel you. Thanks for dropping me a line.

That's exciting! Thanks for dropping me a line! Here's another one that you might like. Here’s a 60-second preview of the AFL Valve: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yfXdx6AkqjU.html

Appreciate the positive feedback.

Thanks!

Thanks for dropping me a line! PS If you're interested in spreading the word about this channel... 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder (60 sec): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Mvv5Cd2cVW4.html

Right on! Glad it was helpful.

I'm blown away that people were able to create the planetary gear set. Pretty amazing... Thanks for dropping me a line!

Right on! That's awesome!

Thanks for dropping me a line!

Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for dropping me a line.

@@SouthpawAutoworks hey bro, I got a question, seems like you have a lot of experience with transmission, I have a 94 trans am 5.7, when I push the gas to the floor taking off ot sounds like its grinding on something and dosen't wants to go then a big clunk then finally goes, I changed fluid , filter, torque converter and this is the fourth time that I dropped the transmission; I opened up and didn't find nothing wrong with it , the only thing that I found is that it didn't have a piston in the accumulator in the case but that's about it, also last time that I changed the filter I found some chunks of metal on top of the filter, but I didn't see anything missing or broken; any idea what I should be looking for? I don't know anything about transmission and any help would be appreciated , thanks in advance

*was missing the pistons that controls fourth gear

Glad you enjoyed it.

That's awesome about your dad. I really appreciate you taking the time to share your thoughts. Thank you for dropping me a line.

Glad it was helpful! Appreciate you taking the time to drop me a line.

Right on! Thanks for dropping me a line.

Glad you enjoyed it.

Thanks for the sub! It really is crazy how much is going on in there. You and me both. Thanks for dropping me a line.

Glad you found the channel! Welcome aboard. The positive feedback is appreciated. Thanks for dropping me a line. PS If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Builder: (60-Sec Preview) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y3Vixa_Ec1E.html

You're like me... I, too, watch/read stuff over and over. The repetition helps the info sink in. When time permits, I'd like to update these videos (animate them). Might make for a better viewing/learning experience. Thanks for dropping me a line!

Appreciate the feedback.

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for dropping me a line!

Right on! Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for dropping me a line!

Glad you enjoyed it.

Thanks for dropping me a line.

Right on! Glad you got something of value out of the video. I saw your other comment (2017 silverado 4.3L). Just haven't had a chance to respond. I will say that the 4L60E was phased out of the GM lineup in 2013/2014...depending on model of vehicle.

Awesome!

Glad you got something out of it. Thanks for dropping me a line.

Appreciate you helping the channel grow. 1 Handed Automatic Transmission Builder: (60-Seconds) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y3Vixa_Ec1E.html

Obrigado.

Glad you like it

Right!

Glad you liked it. The positive feedback is appreciated.

Thanks for checking it out!

Currently we do not have any videos covering 4L60E upgrades. However, that's definitely on the to-do list! We're gonna be putting together a T-case video, before too long. Unfortunately, it's not one that's compatible with the 4L60E. But, we will get to doing other T-cases, in good time. Thanks for dropping me a line!

You're welcome.

We've got a number of other videos in the works. Stay tuned! PS - If it feels right to you, please help us spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y3Vixa_Ec1E.html 4L60E AFL Valve - Part 1: (60-Sec Preview) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yfXdx6AkqjU.html

@@SouthpawAutoworks thanks. I'll help all I can

Great question, Mike! When time permits, I'll make a video about this specific issue. For the time-being, I've expressed some thoughts below. If you want to help this RU-vid channel grow, check out this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-giV8ySI1Cz8.html (Thanks for your support!) A few thoughts come to mind... 1). A seized Input Sprag. 2). A broken Forward Clutch piston (Cross-leak). 3). Cross-leak somewhere in the trans (Overrun clutch circuit being fed oil, when it's not supposed to be). Seized Sprag: The sprag must rotate one direction, and hold (or not rotate) in the other direction. It must also be installed, into the 4L60E, in the correct orientation. It's very easy to install it backwards (rebuilding mistake)....which is not the issue at hand. I'm leaning towards a sprag failure, as opposed to a rebuilding mistake. A sprag can fail in one of two (2) ways: 1). Rotate both directions. [Results in no forward gears] 2). Hold (prevent rotation) in both directions (referred to as a siezed sprag). [Results in binding (feels like the brakes are being applied) in the 4th gear] A broken Forward Clutch Piston: It's possible for the Forward clutch piston to crack, and leak apply pressure (oil) into the overrun clutch piston. When the Overrun Clutch is activated (turned on) the Input Sprag is no longer able to freewheel. In other words, it holds in both directions. Under certain driving conditions, this is desirable. However, the overrun clutch should never be on in 4th gear. When the overrun clutch is applied in 4th gear, it prevents the sprag from rotating (just like a siezed sprag). [Results in binding (feels like the brakes are being applied) in the 4th gear] If in doubt, you could replace it. 4L60E Molded Piston Kit: amzn.to/3CRVECB (Paid Link) Cross-Leak: I'd start with the sprag and the piston. If you can't find anything there, then it would be time to look for cross-leaks elsewhere. If it were me, I'd be looking at the Input Sprag. I'd also be looking closely at the Forward Clutch Piston (crack). ****Parts**** (Paid links) 2-4 Band: amzn.to/3CUSspR Input Reverse Drum: amzn.to/3g8v9PI (Caution: Some have a built-in check ball, some don't. Inspect your drum. Make sure you order the correct one.) Input Sprag: amzn.to/3CRXEL7 (Best to spring for a good one. When these fail, you can lose all forward gears.) If you want to gain a better understanding of what's going on, here's some more info...... A good place to start is with the 4L60E Clutch and Band application chart (Video time-stamp: 18:35). Clutch components that are used to create 4th gear are: 1). Forward clutch*. [I'll get to the star (*) in a minute.] 2). 3-4 Clutch. 3). 2-4 band. I'm not sure if you previously watched the video about 4L60E planetary gear sets (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QjT0CUG73YM.html). Per the video, there are three (3) members of each planetary gear set; sun gear, planet carrier, and the ring gear. In order to achieve a forward/reverse gear, one member must be rotated by the engine and one member must be held (or prevented from rotating). Direct drive is an exception to this rule (two members are simultaneously rotated by the engine). If this short explanation is not making sense, please check out the video about the gear sets (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QjT0CUG73YM.html). In 4th gear, for the 4L60E, the 3-4 clutch transfers engine rotation to the planetary gear set (it makes the rear planet carrier rotate). The 2-4 band prevents the reaction sun gear (the rear sun gear) from rotating. This creates a gear ratio of roughly 0.75:1 (Common gear ratio for overdrive, in any transmission). These are the only two (2) clutches that are needed to create 4th gear. So, why in the world are the Forward clutches still on??? Wouldn't this extra clutch cause the gear set to bind up? Absolutely!....but.... Even though the Forward clutches are technically on, they are not doing anything. In 4th gear, the input sprag freewheels, disconnecting the forward clutch from the planetary gear set. GM did this on purpose, for upshifting/down-shifting strategy. More on that, another time. DISCLOSURE: 🕵 As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Some, if not all, of the links contained in this video description/comment are affiliate links. This means that, at no additional cost to you, I will receive a small commission on any purchases you make through the website links provided above.

When the problem occurs, can you watch the tachometer? How much is the RPM change/drop, as the trans cycles back and forth between gears?

@@SouthpawAutoworks that's for the replay. 50mph it happens I say 300rpm different. Also I disconnected the tcc lock up and it still does it.

It sounds like you're on the right track. Based off of what you described, it does sound like the Forward clutch is stuck on (due to damage). Under that condition (brake torquing) the line pressure must be elevated high enough in order to prevent the Forward Clutch from slipping (and burning up). If you haven't done so already, you might want to attach an automatic transmission oil pressure gauge (must read higher than 300 psi), to your currently installed unit. You'll want to verify that the line pressure is rising high enough when the trans is under full load. You mentioned a "1990 4L60." This trans is controlled by a governor and a TV cable (Throttle Valve). The TV cable is used to influence line pressure. Line pressure is used to apply the clutches. Low line pressure can be caused by a number of things. What method did you use to adjust the TV cable?

​@@SouthpawAutoworksTV cable at full extension at WOT but I also have the spring loaded sonnax kit that increases TV at lower throttle angles.

I remember reading your comment, and not having time to respond....but, I really wanted to. That's so cool that you're building a 4L60E with your son! Building memories... Were you able to get to the bottom of the problem? Was the 1-2 accumulator missing an o-ring?

We found that the transmission was a B&M build and then we added a shift kit. There is no information on B&M and when adding the shift kit there were values and spring combinations that the transmission didn't like. We pulled all the B&M parts out and used the shift kit and she started working again.@@SouthpawAutoworks

It def gets complicated. ha. Especially as a whole. Fortunately, it gets a lot easier to digest when things are broken down into bite-sized chunks. Check out these videos to learn more about 4L60E hydraulics: Pump: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gJ5CdPJoJyg.html PR Valve (Line pressure): part 1: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ELhJlZridIY.html ...part 2: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dJlUec91kgY.html ...Part 3: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PY1trZeLqTM.html AFL Valve: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LqBkdegPjNk.html Shift Valve: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jPhm76RDz6Y.html Shift Solenoid: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FaChWmcsAgI.html That's interesting... What do you mean by you "don't really have third..."?

It isn't fully like neutral, it shifts in to third and the rpms shoot up, but if I get there throttle and keep them high enough it will slowly build speed until it shifts into 4th. I have better luck driving in manual second and then kicking to OD when the speed will be high enough to engage 4th It is almost like a hydraulic circuit is bleeding off pressure when in third but when it commands 4th the clutches have enough pressure to engage.

Thank you for the clarification. I'm gonna have to take a look at the circuitry, and fire back later. This one definitely has my interest.

What's the history on the trans? Lot of mileage? Recently rebuilt? If recently rebuilt, what was the original failure?

@@SouthpawAutoworks Thanks for looking into it, and keep up the good work, some of the best transmission content I've seen!

When it lunges forward, do the engine RPMs drop, momentarily? Does the engine stall? Or act like it might stall?

I am not familiar with the Suzuki A174. I am looking at some reference material on that trans, right now. However, there's not a lot to go off of, other than a layout of the internal guts. They're referring to their clutches as C1,C2, and BOB2. It's not uncommon for different manufacturers to use different names for the "Forward" Clutch. How many speeds is this transmission? When you say, "auto tranny would hold down on it break on itself while am accelerating and immediately start running smoothly." Does it feel like the brakes are being put on, while you are driving?

We plan on covering one-way clutches in a future video. Stay tuned! Thank you for your interest.

There are indeed ways to test the health of a torque converter. When time permits, I'd love to make a video on that. When there's a transmission failure (both soft parts [clutches, etc] and hard parts [gears, bearings, etc]), contaminants will be circulated throughout the transmission. Those contaminants will make their way into the torque converter, the trans cooler, the valve-body, etc. The trans can be cleaned (during rebuild) and the cooler system can be flushed. However, the torque converter can not be easily cleaned...as it's a sealed unit. For the most part, torque converters are welded shut. They require a specialty shop, with specialty tools, to cut them open, clean them, and reassemble. If you rebuild a trans, and then reuse the torque converter, you'll likely contaminate your new trans, and cooler, with debris from the converter...which could result in a repeat transmission failure. Sorry to hear that about your 4L60E. A leak that could not be seen from the outside. That really sucks... Thanks for dropping me a line! PS - If it feels right to you, please help me spread the word about this channel. 1 Handed Transmission Rebuilder: (60-Sec Preview) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y3Vixa_Ec1E.html 4L60E AFL Valve - Part 1: (60-Sec Preview) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yfXdx6AkqjU.html

Thanks!!!! Yes, not a drip on my driveway. I had just checked all the fluid levels a month earlier. Again, great video & I will share it.

It's hard for me to give a short explanation...but, I'll do my best. The Input Sprag enables engine power to enter the planetary gear set...but, as soon as we let off of the gas, and the vehicle starts to coast, and the Input Sprag "disconnects" from the planetary gear set (rotates freely, in the other direction) (known as free-wheeling). The Input Sprag acts just like a Craftsman 3/8 Ratchet...or any other brand. It locks when driven one direction, and unlocks/ratchets/free-wheels in the other direction. The Overrun Clutch prevents the Input Sprag from free-wheeling...which gives the vehicle engine-braking. I have not watched any of these videos, in a long time. Thinking I covered the Overrun Clutches in the video below. Note: I sometimes call the Overrun Clutches "Coast" Clutches. Not technically correct...but, hey. 4L60E Power Flow - Manual 1st, Manual 2nd, & Manual 3rd ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6kfAuXJFYFE.html

It could be a number of things. Hard to say without having more info. Check engine light on? Codes? Trans recently rebuilt? Vehicle mileage?

Great question. 93-94 4L60E uses an ON/OFF style TCC (Torque Converter Clutch). The TCC is turned ON, and OFF, quickly...just like the other clutches in the transmission. When the TCC is applied, it almost feels like another transmission up-shift (slight bump). 95-up 4L60E utilize a PWM style TCC. PWM: Pulse-Width Modulated. PWM TCC are applied incrementally. With the PWM, you don't feel the TCC being applied. ON/OFF Torque converters use a clutch with a paper lining friction material.....just like the clutches inside of the 4L60E. However, PWM torque converters use a carbon lining. You asked about the electrical... It is also different. The solenoids, and the valve-body itself. The problem: The PCM (4L60E computer) thinks it's working with a paper-lined TCC. However, it's now working with a carbon-lined TCC. The carbon-lined TCC is designed to be gradually pulsed on. But, it's now being turned on instantly.

@@SouthpawAutoworks , Robert, thank you for replying back so quickly. You hit on one of my questions. Assuming I have a PWM containing 4L60E transmission in the car now, what, if anything, does the PCM do? I would assume nothing. Do the wire connections that come from the PWM solenoid go to ‘nothing’ in the harness? By the way, I’m not sure what kind of torque converter is in the car. I don’t think it is factory (different color paint). Assuming the PWM circuit is inactive, is there anything else that could be causing the sensation of slight bucking after the converter locks up? Could this be the TCC solenoid going bad? I’m not sure if it can intermittently switch on/off/on very quickly after lock up. I wonder about the wiring harness too (if that could be bad; intermittent grounding). If the harness is bad, can you buy a harness for a 93-94 without the PWM connector? Thanks again for helping me think about this before going further.

The PCM controls when the trans shifts, and it controls the "feel" of the shift...how soft or firm the shift is. 1st to 2nd gear...2nd to 3rd...3rd to 4th...4th to 3rd...etc. And of course, the PCM controls the TCC operation. Early 4L60E's applied the TCC quickly. Later 4L60E's applied the clutch slowly. Because of this, there are different clutch materials used for the TCC. I would imagine that the bucking is because of the TCC friction lining. That lining is designed for gradual application...and it's now is getting applied rapidly. PWM style vs On/Off style.

@@SouthpawAutoworks , my thanks again for replying and engaging. Even though I'm not sure of the torque converter that is with this transmission, I would guess that it is the correct type for use with PWM (friction lining). This may not be correct. Do you have any comments on whether the harness or TCC solenoid itself could be part of the problem, or do you think that's the wrong direction to investigate?

Reverse will be covered in a separate video, in the future. Appreciate you dropping me a line.

What line pressures are you seeing with the trans in Park, and the engine idling? What's the pressure when the engine/trans are cold? What's the pressure when the engine/trans are warmed up? Whining is likely coming from the pump. Low fluid level will cause a whining noise. Same goes for a bad filter seal. Among other things... I have questions about the slipping, but I'mm out of time today.

It sounds like the 3-4 Clutch has failed. Super common point of failure on the 4L60E. Cooler line blew off while driving the vehicle? That's a bummer. What a mess... Thank you for that helpful info. If the line blows off while the vehicle is cruising down the road, this causes a sudden drop in oil level, to the point where the pump is no longer able to receive oil from the pan. As the pump starves for oil, it's no longer able to supply enough pressure to the clutch. The clutch slips, which creates heat, and burns the clutch pack. The clutch is metal that has a paper friction lining bonded to the metal. These lines like to blow off when the vehicle is cruising down the HWY...in 3rd/4th gear. So, that's the clutch that get's affected. The trans will need to be taken apart, in order to replace the 3-4 Clutch pack. The piston, that applies the clutch, should also get replaced....among other things. The positive feedback is appreciated.

3-4 clutch failure is a common issue for the 4L60E. I'm gonna have to dedicate a video to that topic... Do you know what all was done to the trans during the rebuild?

@@SouthpawAutoworks The issue I’m not familiar with 3-4 clutch failure or neutral on hwy yet clutches appear to still be new my guess would be limp mode or Valve body issues and EPC solenoids are bad/ leaking

I have an idea...but, I better make sure we're on the same page, first. Based off of the road test, you suspected a 3-4 clutch failure? However, after getting the trans apart, you found the 3-4 clutches to be in great shape? Am I understanding this correctly? Questions: 1). With the trans shifter placed in OD Mode (D), 1st and second gear worked correctly? 2). What happens when trans shifted to 3rd gear? 3). What happens when trans shifted to 4th gear?

@@SouthpawAutoworks Pretty close but when shifting. the fourth gear and lockup went neutral. I was not there when they tested it. It was a new install of a remanufactured transmission. I was also told when you Manual shifted only had two and three no first no fourth

Also I haven’t confirmed but I have a suspicion. they did not properly flush and they may have used an existing torque converter from the previous transmission. failure re-introducing clutch and metal shaving material into the remanufactured transmission

I've got some ideas, however, I'm pressed for time right now. I'll fire back ASAP.

Who's your buddy? Who's your pal?

@SouthpawAutoworks i cant fathom the time aggravation into editing videos. Suppose its more than a tranny drop n rebuild. I have 545rfe. So same principle for 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 tcc solenoid isnt it. Same goes for line pressure? 25psi at 65 cruise with MDS solenoid unplugged. I cant stand MDS. Going to flash/delete someday. Been losing 4 and OD sometimes. Use to have a little shiver when it would go OD but now seldom.

So when i lose high gears i found i have to disconnect battery or sit overnight and woolah.

Yes, both are holding mechanisms (brakes). The band anchors the Reverse-Input Drum to the transmission case. That drum controls the Reaction Sun Gear. The Low-Reverse Clutches anchor the Rear Planet Carrier to the transmission case. This prevents the carrier from rotating...but still allows the little gears (pinions) to spin. This is used to help create Reverse. Still need to create a video on Reverse... The Rear Planet Carrier is also splined to the Ring Gear of the front planetary gear set. By holding the Rear Planet Carrier to the transmission case, we're also (simultaneously) holding the Ring Gear of the front planetary gear set. This is used to help create 1st gear.

@@SouthpawAutoworks so the pinions are the minions of the transmission in essence?

@@SouthpawAutoworks sir, what EXACTLY makes 95 4L60E A stand alone transmission,., I have 3 4l60e im learning on,, a 94,95,96.. so far all 3 cases look to be exactly the same...I cannot see any differerences in the case valve bodies.. the 94, 95, and 96 all have slightly different seperator plates.. the 94 pump is different than the 95 and 96 pump. there is an extra channel in the 95 and 96 pwm stamped pumps. the valve bodies look exactly the same, except the 95 and 96 have a tcc solenoid on them and the 94 doesnt. are there any other differences.. it looks like if I wanted to make the 95 or 96 work in a 93 or 94, all that would be needed was to change the pump, seperator plate, and trans wiring harness.. and possibly the tcc regulator valves in the valve body? any clarification of this would be greatly appreciated.. one of the trans I bought is a 95, that came out of a 94 truck.. dont know if it ever worked right and its the one with the smoked low reverse clutches.. it still had the pwm pump on it, and tcc solenoid attached to the valve body.,, likely not used because the 94 doesnt have the plug connector for it in the wiring harness.

I'm gonna have to dedicate a video to this topic.

There are a number of reasons that they can fail. A common wear item is the Boost Valve. It's used to elevate line pressure (oil pressure used to apply the clutch packs). When the Boost Valve wears out, it can wipe out the Low-Reverse Clutches.

when line pressure is insufficent , that affects AFL pressure I think, (the activation pressure.. ), is the low reverse clutch pack the first to starve for fluid being its the furthest away from the pump? thanks

Low Line Pressure affects everything, including AFL pressure. There are several different oil pressures, all with their own jobs. But, Line Pressure is king of the mountain. If there's a problem there, it affects everything down-hill/down-stream. Don't know if you've already watched this video... 4L60E: AFL Valve (Part 1) How it Works: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LqBkdegPjNk.html Clutches can fail for a number of reasons. However, the most common is a loss of (or inadequate) oil pressure. With the trans shifted into Reverse, Line Pressure jumps up a bunch....or at least it should. Even if the pump is capable of building enough pressure, the independent oil circuits that feed the clutches (clutch pistons) must not have any oil leaks.

@@SouthpawAutoworks I see,, thanks !! so now I can look for a reason that the low/reverse pressure circuit likely lost its pressure. I will look at some hydraulic circuits and see if I can find some clues.. transmissions are fascinating for sure.. if the information thats out there today, would have been available 25 years ago, I likely would have went into the transmission repair and rebuilding field.

When time permits, I plan on dedicating videos to each of the oil circuits for each gear. Gonna cover basic operation of a healthy system. Then cover all common problem areas, too...with solutions, of course.

When time permits, I'd love to put together a video on Reverse circuits. Not sure how long it takes for assembly gel to melt. In Reverse, the oil pressure can exceed 300 psi. Thinking the gel will get pushed out of the way. If the fluid level is too low, it should affect all gears...but, it's always good to start with the basics, and check the fluid level...and of course set it correctly.

@@SouthpawAutoworks thank Robert.. what tests can I do before pulling the trans back out, to zero in on the problem. ? me and my son rebuilt it and thought we did everything right, but evidently not , ha we air checked the circuits at the stator and reverse drum, the low reverse clutches in the bottom of the case . BRAND NEW HEAVY DUTY sunshell,.. im hoping its just something in the valve body not right.

Reverse is achieved by two clutch packs; 1). Reverse-Input Clutch. 2). Low-Reverse Clutch. It sounds like, for whatever reason, one of those clutch oil circuits is leaking oil pressure. There's a way to identify which clutch/circuit is the problem, during a road test...through process of elimination. By shifting the trans to Manual Low (Might show "L" or "1" on dash, or near floor mounted shifter), we can test the Low-Reverse Clutch. 1st gear is achieved by two clutches; 1). Forward Clutch. 2). Low-Roller Clutch. Manual Low is the same as 1st gear, but it adds another clutch pack to the equation; Low-Reverse. This extra clutch pack is used to create engine-braking. If the trans is shifted from Park into Manual Low, and the vehicle is accelerated to a speed that makes sense to up-shift....but, instead of manually up-shifting, simply let off of the gas...the vehicle should decelerate (engine-braking). If it decelerates, we can assume the Low-Reverse Clutch is working. If Reverse is achieved by the Reverse-Input Clutch & the Low-Reverse Clutch...and through road testing it has been identified that the Low-Reverse Clutch does work, then one can assume (through process of elimination) that the Reverse-Input Clutch (or it’s associated hydraulic circuit) is the culprit. Always a good idea to verify fluid level before doing anything other testing. Having the vehicle on a level surface, and the fluid up to operating temp, is important when checking fluid level. If you don't already know, when the engine is at normal operating temp, the transmission is, too. The engine and the trans share the same cooling system (radiator).

@@SouthpawAutoworks wow, great info. this gives me direction to follow. whatever I did wrong, will never happen again, so thats the cost of knowledge. my low reverse piston has the removable seal. instead of the molded piston, which I kind of didnt like, as I figure they went to molded for a good reason.. but the molded seal piston is different than the replaceable seal piston. so if I go back into the low reverse clutch and piston, I want to upgrade to the molded low reverse piston.. I think I recall that the spring cage is different. or the piston is different , . thats why I didnt get one, and it didnt come in the kit I bought. so what do I have to change to be able to use the molded piston... I actually tore the first low reverse piston seal. and had to get another one. after tearing the first,. I bought the little lip seal tool and used trans fluid, instead of assy lube because the assy lube was kind of sticky and thick...the seal went in much easier with just the trans fluid, and lips seal tool I specifically recall air testing it and it didnt leak and the clutches engaged. by process of elimination, I have the beast sunshell. so that isnt the issue. Im pretty confident the low reverse clutch pack is good. the rebuild video did not tell how to test the low reverse clutch drum, so that was not tested.

robert you should do a complete comprehensive series on history, rebuilding, troubleshooting, upgrades, tips and tricks of the 700r4, 4l60. 4l60e and offer it for sale. I would definitely be a buyer. theres alot of scattered info on the internet, but no place that covers everything. you are an excellent instructor.

I responded to your duplicate comment, on the other video.

It sounds like the 2-4 band is in trouble. As the name implies, the 2-4 band is partially responsible for creating 2nd gear and 4th gear. The band is activated (or applied) by the 2-4 Servo. The band lives inside of the transmission case. It's wrapped around a drum. When the band is applied, it squeezes the drum, and prevents it from rotating. This has positive effects on the planetary gear set.

Does the vehicle not move forward (when the shifter is placed into Drive)?

@@SouthpawAutoworks no it doesn't, but can go in reverse with no problem

If there's a problem with a shift solenoid, you'll still be able to get forward movement...there's more to this, but I'll keep it short. This has me thinking Forward Clutch and Input Sprag, as the possible problems. With the engine idling in Park, if you shift into Manual 1 (D1), will it move forward?

I read every RU-vid comment. I respond to as many comments as I can...time permitting.

No 3rd & no 4th. This is a very common symptom for the 4L60E. It's typically because the 3-4 Clutch has failed. As the name implies, the 3-4 Clutch is partially responsible for 3rd and 4th gear. However, when this clutch fails, it typically results in dirty (and smelly) transmission fluid. As the clutch fails, it starts shedding the paper friction material, which ultimately makes a mess in the transmission pan. How long have you owned this vehicle? Buy it brand new? Recently bought it used?

@@SouthpawAutoworks it's a friend's truck she bought it new it shifts fine manually all gears but if you put it in drive or 3rd gear nothing 1st and 2nd work when you drive just have to shift 1234 works great but there is a loud sound inside transmission area not sure didn't see a lot of debris inside the transmission fluid was red sounds like transmission needs to come out for repair she don't have a lot of money I've worked on transmission before but many years ago there very complex today you make it look so easy wish I was that smart with transmission you know it very well

It's a 2007 Chevy Silverado 8100 miles

81000

Also I think it's the 4l80 transmission 4.8 motor ??