4R75W Rebuild 

You are correct. It should be by the drain hole and toward the pump gears. I have seen them pointing other directions however with no issues. And since it spun the rear stator bushing also, I would check a couple of other things as well. Make sure both dowel pins are in the engine block. Make sure the battery is good, and the grounds are good and clean. Make sure the flywheel is not warped. The rear bushing spinning out makes me lean more towards bad battery or grounds. I have never had to finish that bushing in place. Now Toyota's, especially the older ones you can run into that issue, but I have never heard of it on a Ford.

Well something is definitely wrong!!!! I got it back together today with a reman pump from TransStar (I looked it over, new gears, new bushings, seal) new seals on the stator, fresh forward drum I cleaned it up, replaced frictions/steels, pressure tested with the drum in the pump, and replaced both bushings in the reverse drum. End play felt nice, input shaft turned smooth. The dowel inserts are both there. Took it on maybe a 1 mile road test. Nothing stupid just checking for shift feel, it drove well. Went and got my things to go home and looked under the truck to find a puddle of fluid right under the converter. I’m at a bad place with it right now. We just put a motor in too and we need it gone.

So I measured the converter hub on the reman converter and it was right at 2.000. I had another converter here out of a good working unit (I checked to make sure it was in excellent condition and it was) and it measured 1.995/1.996. My thinking says 0.004/0.005 is just enough for fluid to get between the converter hub and the pump bushing. I put another bushing in the pump (it didn’t spin but did walk forward a little over a 1/4 inch in less than a mile) and I then staked it in several places. The staking required me to clean up the bushing slightly but I kept checking the fit on the converter until it went on/off smoothly and spun easily. Put a new seal (from Ford) and used my slightly used converter. It’s finally gone and almost a week later is reported to be working fine. What a pain that ended up being but I did learn some new things about the 4R75W.

Glad it helped. Yeah, those servo bores are almost always worn out.

Glad to hear it. You don't have to have the hole exactly at the 12 O'clock position. Just as long as it is somewhere towards the top. Anywhere from 11 to 1.

Thanks. I've never seen one come all the way out, bet it did do some damage. The flat one is suppossed to be the upgrade. They both suck. You might try using the Teckpak Fitzall one since the case is so worn. 76813.

Yeah the gal at the trans parts house sold me the Fitzal spring. I got a new center support and I’m changing the case too. I just feel like it had too much wear on the case lugs when it was built last and thats the reason it spit the “spring” out in the first place. I had to order a snap ring for the forward and one for the direct drum. Even with the Borg Warner frictions the clutch pack clearance is too much, makes me nervous. The last builder just put an extra steel in the direct clutch but that makes it pretty tight, like 0.015/0.018. Don’t really like that either.

I’m considering the J-mod on this one too. It’s a young driver n he’s got it all jacked up (2 wheel drive wanna be 4wd) with big wheels and crap. I think it will be a good one for it.

Did you happen to change and get the drum from WIT?I have been getting alot from there that have that problem. They are coming with thinner steels. Have a hell of a time getting the clearance right with them.

So I didn’t change the drum. I have seen them strip out, know they can be an issue, but I looked at this one closely and didn’t see any problems. I suspect it was replaced during the last rebuild. I managed to finally get the bushing changed out (almost gave up and replaced it during that ordeal) and reused it. The steel’s were the same thickness as the replacements.

I agree, it should work. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching.

Thanks. I know I go a little fast but I am on a schedule and have production to worry about. That's what the pause button is for, right? Lol. Those rings can be a pain. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching.

If you put that upside down it will keep 2nd on all the time. So that is probably where the problem is.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Is no reverse now that is because I drove it Like that? I have to redo all of it to make sure it didn't burn any clutches right. Thank you.

I would double check everything while it is out.

Could be TCC or engine misfire. If you have a scanner that shows data you can watch it on there. Sometimes Ford does not have a PID for misfire. In that case you need to go to functional tests and look for cylinder contribution test and watch it there.

Thanks for watching.

Thanks for the visit

I use a Snap On drawer slide tool, but they domake lip seal protectors. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=aod+lip+seal+protectors&_sacat=0&_odkw=aodlip+seal+protectors&_osacat=0

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you so very much for the response and the info. I truly appreciate it!

Your end play will come out correctly. Usually between .005-.025. The clicking of the diode sprag is normal, as well as the squeaking.It is the low sprag turning without oil.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Man I'm sorry for asking so many questions! Thank you and your help is super appreciated! I've never attempted something so technical with a vehicle before and just wanted to not overlook something and then go through all the work to reinstall the trans on the vehicle and then it doesn't work cause I missed something crucial and have to take it back out again if I can help it! Have a great day and thanks again!!!!

Yes, unless you do not mind a firm low speed 1-2 shift.

The top sealing rings on the stator. If it has the late plastic rings it will not air check solidly, it will leak air. They require fluid pressure to seal properly.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Ahhhhhhh ok thanks a million it makes sense now. I changed the seals on the input shaft twice and was still getting the same issue. So glad I asked an expert or I'd be worried and lost!! I really, really, really appreciate your help!!

No, they will be fine.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission This is good news! Thanks so much for your expert input!!

Thanks for watching

I have not seen an AODE in forever. Been hoping one would come in so I can finish the different variations on the transmission. The only thing turning in the unit is the bearing on the back of the overdrive direct drum. But usually it gets louder and also does it in park.

Now that you mention it, sounds more like bearing noise. Don’t hear it any other time other than when it’s shifted in N and hasn’t been driven, as the sound goes away after the truck has been driven some. I appreciate the quick response. I’ll keep an ear out it if gets worse or shifting becomes a problem. Thank you!

Could be you are just not getting it down far enough. Other 2 options are the pin length is too short or the band has moved out of position. Pull the servo back out and look down the hole and see if it is lined up. If not you can usually move it back into place and not have to take it back apart.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok thanks again as usual! I was actually testing it when I was putting in all the internal parts in the case and since I was having reverse issues and the previous band had been destroyed because I installed the pin too far in the bore also causing the planetary to be scratched due to the belt digging into it constantly as it was too tight. So I had A machine shop smooth out the outside face of the planetary and they said they took off a millimetre. So I was worried that the change in size of the planetary was causing the belt not to contact properly but the belt was working when I used the small tool that compresses the accumulator by turning a bolt. However I was saying to myself that was a lot of pressure from the tool to make contact and may not be designed to need so much force. And having never seen a good working reverse band and planetary in the transmission to compare I was not sure which scenario is most likely!! I thank you again for your help with that response as it at least allows me to know I may simply have not been able to put enough force on it with the back of the hammer to make good contact around the planetary. Well I did a MacGyver and pushed the pin a bit farther up the bore so it's closer to the planetary so hopefully I have reverse if not I'll reorder a new planetary which I had originally did but it never came and I didn't want to be stuck on this project any longer. So thanks again! I'll update when transmission is in and if it works or not. But either way this would not have been even possible to attempt without your help!!

Don't know if you fixed it or not, but there are reports that there are some aftermarket covers that are too shallow and allowing the servo to block the feed hole.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you for this info! The reverse is currently working... although sometimes it goes into reverse with a thud. So I'm not sure if there is a problem with it being shallow or anything of the sort but I'll monitor it and if anything goes wrong I'll post an update! I think I just didn't have enough knowledge on how exactly the reverse band in association with the piston pin works when it's in the truck and operating with oil pressure. I was thinking that during assembly I should have been able to push on the pin, engage the reverse band so that if I tried to turn the planetary by hand with the reverse band engaged that it shouldn't turn but be locked by the band. But I have proven that this is not the case that the oil pressure works with it to create the bond so that the reverse can work. So fingers crossed, hoping it works for a long time!

I should also mention the reverse band is brand new

It could be the pin is too short. Sometimes the band will move out of position. Pull the servo back out and look in the apply hole and see if the band is centered or if it has moved. Sometimes you can move it back into position.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I pulled the servo back out and it appears the band did move out of alignment because I could not see the lug where the servo seats into. Going to try and get the band back into position but getting it on the case lugs properly will be difficult so fingers crossed

Muscle memory. He knows how tight things should be and he knows the power of his tools. After building thousands of these things he won't have any issues.

@@randomgooglename Muscle memory with an impact driver?

@@Jim-Wade yes. You can impact things enough times to know what kind of power your gun puts out on different settings and you can also figure out how tight things need to be if you are tightening into steel or aluminum.

@@Jim-Wade and that's not an impact driver. He's using an impact tool or impact wrench. An impact driver removes fasteners not tightens them.

You can use them. White ones are better. They are easy to resize. Don't need a special tool. Just do it the way I show in the video.

The bearing that goes on the case behind the output shaft and the one on the reverse drum are almost identical. The one for the case has scalloped edges. The one on the reverse drum has flat edges. If those are correct your problem is probably with the intermediate clutches being too thick. Have seen problems with only being .002 thicker per disc than normal.

I rechecked and installed the pump. The input shaft is now turning. Dumb question, does the input shaft rotates only clockwise?. I can also hear the diode clicking when i rotate the input shaft. Is this ok?.

@@chuygarza1505 Should turn both directions. Harder one direction than the other. Yes, you will hear the diode.

Look at the splines on the overdrive direct drum where the stub shaft goes into it. If that looks ok you might have a cracked drum. Assemble the drum back together and air check it on the output shaft. If that all looks ok we will look at other things.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission it was indeed stripped splines on the overdrive direct drum. Thanks for your help.

No problem, glad you figured it out.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission can you recommend a trusted online source for replacement parts ?

WIT and Transtar links are in the description. Some others for hard parts are Slauson's, think they are in Chicago. Bishop's in Dallas. I need to add those to the description. That drum that is stripped out you need to replace with a new one. So, WIT, Transtar or the dealer. Make sure WIT or Transtar are not selling you a Chinese one, it will not last. I do not buy any of my soft parts online, for the most part. Too much of it is the cheap stuff passed off as the good stuff. Sometimes it is hard to tell, other times it is easy to spot. There are a few other places I will use to get soft parts, but I try to get it locally. Jaggi's, he is somewhere in Texas, can't remember where at the moment, really good source for European imports. Really knowledgeable also. Fatsco in New Jersey. There might be a few others, just can't think right now. I need to sit down and think of them all and get the links and update them in the description.

Shift solenoid 1 is on all the time except 2nd, 3rd and Man 2. 2 is off except 3rd and 4th.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission yesterday I tested stationary, I will drive it today to if it dose what you say It feels like start taking off on second on D, but it shifts thru all gears. I really appreciate your help.

I think I know what I did wrong. The Sprag I'm sure I put it correct I watch the video again. On you video on the 54.38 min you show the return spring 2 piece ring, the new version I think I installed the bottom one backwards with the inward leap on top and then the waive on top, that will push the clutches more or not? Thank you.

First slot. There is no way to say how much fluid you lost. Just have to fill it till the dipstick show full. Dry they will hold close to 14qts.

It took 11.75 qts for the “rebuild” without draining the converter. Thank you for your video saved my kid a ton of money!! Was only my second dive into a transmission. Went well! Thanks again!!

@@keithstroud2908 Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

I assume you mean Mercury Grand Marquis. What year?

@@CurmudgeonTransmission correct , 2005

Yes, it is the same.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission lost OD will not shift out of second gear multiple codes for solenoids just about every one fired off on the scan tool car sounds good in P but once it’s in D she barely has any power at all I have to play with the peddle so it can actually roll forward cars sat for a little while now

I would check the wiring harness. You will need to disconnect everything down by the transmission and pull the harness up into the engine bay where you can work on it. Usually the problem is right where the harness comes up over the transmission and engine. Once you fix that make sure there are no blown fuses and clear the codes.

Did your kit come with both the early and late lower valve body gaskets? If so are you sure you used the late one? The upper one works on both so it can not be mixed up.

It came with one only the same as the original. The only thing that I think, and I'm not sure is the the part that has bullet bearing and turns only counterclockwise I don't remember testing it after cleaning and putting back together. I can't thing of the name or the part sorry.

The Sprague but it went in easy.

@@hyper-amps1684 It's a sprag.. T hat would be what I would look at since the gasket is correct. The one on the drum, hold the drum and the hub locks counterclockwise. The one in the planet, hold the support and the planet locks counterclockwise also.

I forgot to mention when driving it the O/D Ligth blinks and the transmission at fault warning message shows.

If you are talking about the one in the Intermediate clutches under the pump, it can be left out.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission GRACIAS

There could be. I need both years of the units and which vehicle it is going in. You had to change wires so I already know we're working with 2 different versions. Just need all the particulars so I can tell you what will and will not work. Also does the vehicle you are putting this in use the speed sensor on the tail housing?

@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok yes the van is a 2007 e250 the tranny swap is from a 2009 crown victoria pI ......they both 4r75e or at least they look like it.

And yes i forgot they both 2 sensors (on tail)

The valve body is the same. Difference is the solenoids and wiring. There also may be a difference on the length of the splines on the output shaft. Vans tended to have longer splines, you might want to double check them. Driveshaft may bottom out and beat the gear train to death. So, when you say not engaging. Not engaging in the o/d position. Neutralizing on the 3-4 shift or just no shift into 4th? Any codes?

@@CurmudgeonTransmission yea i switched all the sensors and soft wiring to hard wiring connector.... also yes the splines are longer on vans on what i just install a spacer on driveshaft.... and Yes it doesnt engage on 4th gear .. I mean when * i put it on D(3rd) it changes 1 time normally and then as it revs up and goes up to like 40mph it just slips or like it goes into neutral .....

Thanks for watching. There will be a little play. probably .008-.020. You might want to closely inspect all the bearings from the center support back, as those are the ones that were taking the force of the blows. The ones on the front and back of the overdrive direct drum are horrible about coming apart anyways. Would be wise to replace those no matter.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks so much for replying. Love your channel, I’ve been watching almost all your videos hope you have more coming. Awesome content

Thank you. I try and have at least 1 a week.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Sorry to Drive you crazy one last question, would a faulty torque converter or front pump cause any grinding feeling when in first gear just starting to drive, it occasionally happens. rest of gears shift nicely, when i removed the pan i found a lot of metallic sludge throughout, but no metal shavings. i really wish i could consult with a pro like you id pay $$ lol

@@ebloulou4203 If you have it apart and did not find where the metal came from, it is probably from the converter. These units are horrible about the bearings coming apart like I said and ruining the planet and drum. A lot of the time it will ruin it from the output shaft all the way to the forward drum.

Of the parts I put in this one, probably somewhere around 500. Not sure anymore. Things have gotten so crazy. Not unusual on this transmission for the gear train to be damaged also. So that will significantly increase the price.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Awesome, thanks for the reply! Not to familiar with ford transmissions.

The last one I rebuilt was a total loss. Center support was good, fwd drum was good, everything else a total loss, including the case. I got a core. The guy at the junk yard let me pull the speed sensors to see if metal build up. He said it was a stick in, the only thing wrong with it was the case connector was smashed. Rebuildable core=$250 Paper/rubber kit=$90 Direct Drum (bad in both units)=$55 Torque Converter=$88 Rev Band=$33 OD band=$17 Filter=$8.50 Update OD piston=$27 Update OD piston snap ring=$7.89 Update output shaft snap ring=$4 So I spent Rev piston, 3 grooves=$19 The 1-2 accum and 2-3 accum seals were soft as butter so I used them over. Output shaft was bad in original unit and not compatable. I happened to have one, otherwise it was $33 used w $16?shipping Total Cost=$648

There are three different versions of this transmission. 93-94 is AOD-E. In 95 they came out with a different ratio, and it is the 4R70W. In 2004 they added a speed sensor along with other changes and it became the 4R75W. 98-03 is your year span. 2 or 3 bolt starter. 1 speed sensor on the driver's side main case, by 2003 they were putting a plastic plug in the case preparing for the change in 04 to using 2 speed sensors. Boss dimension for the MLPS sensor. Black connector for the wiring harness. If there is a speed sensor in the tail housing, shouldn't be, I think they had eliminated it by then. But if it does make sure output shaft has the same tooth count and splines are the same. Technically you can use up to a 2004 as long as everything else matches, but sometime in the 03 area they did away with the teeth to drive the speed sensor in the tail housing they did away with. In later years most were built with 4x4 pans and filters. You can swap it out, just make sure you use the right filter with the right pan.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission where are you guys located at and do you have a phone I could each you at

Sorry I don't give that info out. Will talk to you here or on Instagram.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission can I give you my vin if that will help

That is not going to help. There is a tag on it if you just want to look for that specific one. It is on the driver's side. Will have a number and letters after it. That is the code for that specific one. The info I gave you is if you want to look for others that will work in your application.

I don't pre-soak my clutches or bands, never seen a difference, unless you use crappy brands. Gaskets tend to swell when you get them wet. Don't know what short cuts you are talking about or o-rings. I don't have a camera over by the press so I cannot show that. Thanks for watching anyways.

A lot of rebuilders put clutches and bands in dry. There is no advantage to soaking clutches, all it does is make things messier for no benefit.

So you're trying to learn how to build one of these units by telling someone who's probably built them for decades how it's done? 👍

Welcome