Ford 4R70W Rebuild 

Thanks for watching them.

Thanks for watching.

Thanks, thank you for watching.

Glad it helped, thanks for watching.

These usually don't leak out the front, especially if it is a large leak. If it is a large leak and the pump bushing is not spun I would put a torque converter in it. Check your thrust bearing play on the crank and make sure the flywheel is not warped. Both dowel pins are in the block. If the bushing spun check and clean the grounds. Might add an extra one from the bell housing to the battery.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I replaced the flex plate. After removing the torque converter, I filled it with fluid and put a fine layer of baby powder on it with a cheap "sandblasting" gun I modified. It basically sprays like a powder coat gun. Then pressure tested it, nothing. Released the pressure and just let it sit for a couple days while waiting for parts, nothing whatsoever. Ordered a new pump, as stated in original comment. I haven't found any defects in or around the bell housing and the only fluid inside the bell housing was below the torque converter, between the round inspection port and the pump. Originally the leak just came out of nowhere and rather quickly became a serious problem (a couple days). The only leaks this truck had was a small oil leak from the passenger side of the timing chains cover. Which was an error on my part after replacing the chains and tensioners. Which has since been rectified. After replacing the seal and pump gasket. It didn't leak until I did the test drive. Even then it only leaked when in gear. At first only when in gear and under load. I only drove the truck three times to town. After the second drive it began to leak all the time as soon as it was put into any gear. It wasn't gushing out. Something like 12 drops a minute at idle in drive. Probably more when actually driving a moderate speed. I think that's it. I apologize for the length of this. I'm just trying to be as descriptive as possible. Just because I know how difficult it can be to make an educated guess without seeing the what, when, where, and how. I do GREATLY appreciate your responding's!! Thank You Sir for your time and knowledge!!! Oh and yes, Both dowels are, and were, in place. Ground wires? I'm lost there. I don't understand how ground wires would affect a fluid leak? Probably part of the dark art of transmission repair🤯, or above my pay grade😆.

The grounds are only in the case of a bushing problem. I really believe you have a torque converter leaking and not the pump. Even though you have pressure tested it. If the bushing has not moved out of place, I would put a converter in it. Only other thing I can think of. Several years ago they were producing some seals with a brown rubber color. Those seamed to leak constantly. Make sure it is a black material.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I'm sorry, I don't think I ever said what year of the truck. Because it's definitely not a spring chicken. It's a 1997 F150 XLT 4x4 4.6L 2 valve. I've heard about the different color seal thing. I've gone out of my way to make sure it has black color seals. Well, we'll know if it's still leaking later today. I was able to get most of it buttoned up yesterday evening. Just need to put the rear driveshaft in and fluid. Geez, I hope it's not the torque converter. But your the expert. I'll get to tracking one down today. That way, if need be, the leg work will be done at least. Again, Thank You so much for your help and guidance. Even if only through the videos. It's been a tremendous help!!!

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Well, now it's puking fluid out of the breather tube and dipstick tube. Ok so I bought a replacement, remanufactured, pump. I have NOT started it yet. I put 4 quarts of fluid in to begin with. Then pulled the fuel pump relay and hit the starter for maybe 10-ish seconds. No leaks. Put another 2-ish quarts in and it started coming out of the breather and dipstick tubes. I then hit the starter again for another 10-ish seconds. It did not leak fluid while turning it over. The dipstick tube is still full of fluid. Have I made a fatal error if the torque converter is not seated fully? I had definite clunks when I seated it and I did turn it several times before I started reassembly. Or am I just being overly cautious by not letting it fully start? My logic being that just turning it over isn't enough to really get the pump working. Those seem to me to be the only options I have to pick from. As I stated before, I'm definitely not a transmission guy, so I wouldn't doubt it if I'm wrong. I REALLY need some advice on this and would be EXTREMELY GRATEFUL for ANYTHING right about now!!

Thanks for the tip.

Thanks

Either you have the wrong piston length, the cover is bad, valve body problem or case problem.

Thanks for watching.

You are welcome

Thanks for watching them. Never seen a difference between doing it and not. So, I choose not to. If you feel compelled to do it, then by all means do it.

I like Transtec with Raybestos clutches.

I ordered all the parts also the sure cure kit except the accumulator kit, i was wondering if you could recommend a brand for the servos, im looking at ebay i found a NATIONAL brand also Alto for the overdrive servo, what do you think??? Thanks for your help 👍

Thanks. Yes, it does.

The only thing that happens for 4th is shift solenoid 1 turns back on and the OD band comes on. So, if the only problem is no 4th, the problem is in the valve body, servo or it is a command issue. If it is a neutral when it tries to go to 4th, and you did not miss the band and the servo is fine. Look at the OD servo regulator valve in the valve body. With the valve body in front of you, the manual valve on your left. It will be the top valve on the right side. If the clip was broken on the servo when you built it, it will be blocking the valve. Make sure the check balls are right and you have the correct gaskets. Put a scanner on it and see if it is being commanded. Common issues outside the transmission would be a rubbed through harness from the shifter in the steering column. Or the wiring harness where it goes over the engine by the filler tube.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you so much for the advice. Where can I go to become a transmission repair professional. I love doing this work but lack the experience. Thanks again

I don't know of any place that teaches strictly transmissions. You have collages and tech schools, but they do not teach much on the transmission end of it. Try to get in at a shop and hope the builder is willing to teach you. That can be really hard to do though. That is one of the reasons I started this channel. It did not start off as that, I had other plans for it, but that is what it became. I wanted people that were doing this to be able to come find out how something is put together. Sometimes you come across a part that fell out and you are not sure where it went or how it goes in there. Some of that information is next to impossible to come by. I want this to be a place to find that out. I am getting to the end of my career and want to pass something on before I go. When I started there was nothing either and the builders usually would not help you because they did not want you taking their spot. I have been fortunate to know quite a few really good ones that helped me out, especially in the early years.

Yes, it will. There are a few differences. Assembly wise the difference will be when you get to the center support. the snap ring opening goes in a different spot. I have a video on that version of the transmission. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8FmiDaRKtZw.html Thanks for watching.

Thanks

Pull the valve body and you will have a vale stuck. Opposite side of manual valve at the top of valve body. If the E-Clip or snap ring broke on the overdrive servo that is what is stuck in there.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you! Take care and keep up with the videos, you guys will take off!

How long did it take you to rebuild yours?

@@jacobhamilton3463 it really only takes about a full day, and that was me watching the transmission bench series and following along. The car is still going great and found that the od servo had popped off the band somehow. I re set it the same day and no problems since the day of the rebuild!

@@Samwise71999 Is the servo the shift solenoid?

My kit didn’t come with a wavy plate is that why there is an extra steel and two frictions ? I’m utterly confused.

The extra steel and friction is probably for the reverse drum. There are 2 different ones. Most only have 3 frictions. The early ones had 4. You can swap the drums if you desire. If you look closely the reverse steels will fit in the forward drum but are a little loose. The forward steels will not fit in the reverse drum, they are too large. Same with the frictions. No the kits don'tcome with the wavy plate, if it is broken you will have to order it separately. There should be 5 frictions in the forward drum. Start with the wavy plate and then a steel, then a friction and alternate to the top. Then the pressure plate. Reverse drum starts with an apply plate with the flat side up, friction, then steel, alternate steels and frictions to the top. Then the pressure plate. Same with the snap rings. The reverse is slightly smaller than the forward one.

@@CurmudgeonTransmissionMy man thank you so much for the response ! This is why I respect your Channel so much. Thank you man 🙏 I got it all put back together this morning and am going to start on the valve body this afternoon.

On my 1-2 accumulator the top springs there was only one big spring not a smaller one when I popped it out. Should I order the smaller spring or is it fine with the one big spring on top ? Thank you for all your help also,

I also didn’t have the tiny piece for the separator plate plate but it looked good with no cracks in it, I work in a manufacturing plant so I’m thinking maybe some of these small missing things they just didn’t have and they weren’t crucial components, or someone has possibly been in the transmission before ? I need to check the old forward band for any dates on it!

Make sure there are no burrs from driving the old bushing out. Make sure it is a quality manufacturer not Chinese. If you are still having problems, use a piece of All Thread to pull it into the case instead of using a bushing driver.

Well I got the old(new) bushing out and have another one on the way. It seems I have a slight burr, what would you recommend to remove it/level it?

Round file, sand paper.

It is made for GM transmissions but works. www.toolsource.com/holding-fixtures-and-support-c-1321_119_582/gmtransmission-holding-fixture-t0156b-wo-base-p-94383.html

I would look at the wiring harness where it comes up over the block by the filler tube. You will probably have to disconnect all the sensors and pull the harness up far enough to get a good look at it. The most common issue is an EPC code but I have seen other issues in that area. Let me know what you find.

Sounds like lock up is staying applied. Unplug the transmission harness. If it still does it you will know it is in the unit, if not it is outside the unit. Any codes?

No codes

I did fine transmission fluid in the wire connector that comes out of the transmission . The one that plugs in the wiring harness

@@jamesball6847 Let me know what it does when you unplug it.

Sounds like 2 different problems. The no drive problem sounds like a bad sprag. That will be an internal problem. Sounds like it is time for a rebuild.

What makes you think the pump is bad? This is one of the easier transmissions to do. They can vary greatly in cost, depends on what is wrong with it. They are very prone to planetary damage and that can be quite costly.

There are 2 sets of clutches that can be 3 or 4 clutch. The Intermediates and the Reverse. It will say on the pressure plate which one it is. I think you have something mis-assembled. Thanks for watching.

You can use any pump on any year you want you just need to use the correct intermediate return spring set up for it. If you are going to go with the super charger upgrading the drums would be a wise idea. Good luck with your build. Thanks for watching and subscribing.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you very much sir. Yes I’m upgrading the forward and direct clutches with the sonnax drums.

Thank you for making these videos. I’m getting everything ready to rebuild an AOD out of a ‘89 Grand Marquis!

If you are talking about the one under the pump for the Intermediate clutches, no it does not have to have it. They were not in all units. Forget when exactly it was they started putting them in. Want to say around 2004.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok thank you sir

I don't know. No they do not. You can contact Transtar or WIT and they can give you the cost. Links are in the description.

Thanks. That is transgel Gold assembly lube, no longer available. Only ones available now are Dr. Tranny (Lubegard) Blue (thinnest), red and green (thickest).

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you! Which do you recommend?

I use the blue to lube stuff (lip seals) and the green to hold things in place (bearings, washers, etc.). Actually I think I got it wrong. I think the red is thinner than the blue.I quit using it because people were misdiagnosing it as a leak when it would melt. I also think it may be unavailable now also. I will find out later on today. The plant that made Transgel burned down. Was looking on the Lubegard website and they do not list a red, thought they had one, but like I said I don't use the red. So it may not be available anymore either. Will find out later.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I use BG engine assembly lube on the seals to install the pistons on AOD clutches. The stuff is super slick and makes the job much easier since these are some of the most difficult seals to install without damaging/nicking them. (Blending STP with trans fluid also works.) I also use thick cellophane on the outer piston seal to get them to go in more easily. I have a stack of 4R70W cases and valve bodies , (4R70Ws and AODs are $150 at the local U-pull) all have been cannibalized to make wide-ratio AODs, as I do NOT want electronic controls in my projects. The stub (direct drive) shafts in the 4R70 are repurposed as drifts

Too tight is going to cause a bind up. Too loose will slip. Where did you get your parts?

@CurmudgeonTransmission I bought a remco kit off the internet and added a superior shift correction kit and sonnex pressure regulator valve all new electronics and harness the kit seems like it's decent but idk what do you think

Kit I bought had everything clutches steels solenoids and bands and gaskets I'm hoping it fixes my slipping issue all the clutches were in spec except for the intermediate it seemed like it was thinner than what was in it I'm hoping it was a pressure issue that was causing the slip on the old stuff

Don't know anything about Remco, so can't say anything about them. I personally like Transtec kits.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission it seems good the friction plates are reybestos it

Not by much. I knew it was not very much, so I decided to do a test yesterday and see just how much it was. Took a dry clutch and measured it and then soaked it for 3 hours in fluid. Then re-measured it. Started out at .0745 and was fluctuating between that and .0750. So, it was somewhere in between those two numbers. After soaking it was a solid .0750. So, it swelled a whopping .0005. Really probably less since it was fluctuating before. Probably more like .00025-.0003.

No. Nobody can guess all the parts you will need. And you will not need some parts all of the time.

@@CurmudgeonTransmissionAbsolutely agree 100%. I will tear down and see what I need. Should I get a new internal harness just to avoid any unnecessary issues ?

@@tedbear8168 If you desire to. They don't go bad that often. I replace maybe 2 a year. Usually need , depending on the year, kit w/ clutches and piston. Both bands. Most use a 4x4 filter even if it is a 2wd. Sonnax overdrive servo pin. Superior K0192. Shift solenoid assembly. If high enough miles, epc solenoid. Bearing kit. Bushing kit and torque converter. When you get your converter, match the fin angles before you let the core go. They are the dimples on the outside. Get the wrong one and it will throw codes.

@@CurmudgeonTransmissionI have it completely torn down as of this morning the frictions and steels for all the forward gears are burnt completely up, I will take your advice and order the parts you’ve mentioned. Could the torque converter be the reason the transmission suffered the blown out seal on the piston inside the drum ? I found lots of rubber pieces of the seal inside the drum this morning.

@@CurmudgeonTransmissionthe reverse band looked incredible for 216k miles it doesn’t even look worn down but the kit does come with the new bands ! I just get very nervous when working on things I know it can get very pricey ect. But so far the rebuild is way cheaper than a 2,400$ rebuilt trans.

Transgel Gold. No longer available. Dr. Tranny makes red (thinnest), blue, green (thickest).

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you so much, pulling mine this weekend and going to attempt it. If i screw it up, well, it was already screwed up to begin with!

@@donvenedam1552 Wishing you success, thanks for watching.

The way I do it is, push one side in. Then, kind of pull the other side around. It will make the tip pooch out. Keep pulling until it lines up, and then push it in. Little hard to describe. Go to my Instagram and I can shoot you a short video of it.

Thanks, thanks for watching.

Gasket on the tail housing.