Thanks Bud, but I'm an owner of a used '01 Grand 4.0. Doesn't burn a drop of oil, 175,000 miles. I put Freedom 2.5 " lift w/Ruff Country 1" leveling spacer up front. CORE 4×4 adjustable control arms/trac bar. Did the math & measurements. Minus 2 degrees negative caster. New drag links/ tie-rod ends. 1/4 inch play driving. Oh, of course CORE 4×4 spacer block for the rear boomerang. It's loaded. Heated leather, etc. 242 Select Trac. I had a 2000 4.0 QuadraTrac my son wrecked. I'm glad it's gone, the 242 hd is great. Thanks for the video without the electrical gremlin issues But that's only because our WJ's were way ahead of our times. I even have stereo volume/change control on the back of my steering wheel.
Piston skirt issues are probably the most expensive problem these 4.0's. My 99 WJ Limited with only 130k miles had a piston skirt break. Still had full compression but made a loud ticking noise, I was just happy to find it wasn't rod knock or a wiped cam. My 4.7 Dakota has 250k miles on it, original engine and transmission, still runs and shifts like brand new.
Thanks for the video. I just bought a 99 WJ for a grand with 156k miles. My friends shop used it as a shuttle vehicle and they did a bunch of maintenance on it over the years. It's runs and drives great except for some worn trail arm bushings. Thanks for the reminder with the crank sensors. I had a TJ years ago that left me stranded in the mountains because of that sensor
Dude, great video. I'm a very proud only of my used '01 Grand. I'm 68 and replaced /2.5 " lifted W/ Core4×4 adjustable control arms w/"boomerang spacer, extended sway bar links, Cooper AT3 all around. Did the math/measurements. NEVER had to get an alignment after 14,000 miles since I did the lift. Oh, of course adjustable tracbar, drag links & tie-rods. A perfect -2 degrees caster. No over/under steer. 1/4 " play driving. I should've been a factory engineer.
@@dogsarefun2 thank you and the secret is the extensions over top of the trans to get it you get good at it when you done a couple of them but I’ve been mechanic for about 12 years thanks for supporting the channel!
@@dylansgarage3549 I did the conversion on mine about a year ago and didn't get a code (2004 Laredo 4.0). I don't remember doing anything special when I did the conversion (fuses are all the same, didn't modify any OEM wiring, don't remember resetting the computer but could make a difference?, etc.) so not sure what the culprit would be in triggering your CE light. The plug that goes to the relay on mine sits disconnected to this day, with a bit of tape over it of course lol. I have to be honest though, the fan noise is obviously much louder, but overall I haven't had any other issues. The CE light coming on is curious 🤔
@@bitsquirrel140 not to sure honestly I knew it threw a fan code high circuit when I unplugged it so I run both fans now mechanical and electrical makes ac ice cold lol
I bought my beautiful 2004 4x4 Laredo in 2007. Still have it to this day and not looking to give up anytime soon. She only has 129K. But yes I was hoping you'd say the cam-shaft sensor! Happened to me a few months ago. Luckily, I was not on the hwy...which I hate driving on anyway.(Dallas lol). I was ready to trade it in. Luckily a good mechanic fixed it for me. Now I'm trying to find the knocking issue when I go over potholes. I already changed the ball joints, shocks and CV axles. I'll keep hunting. Maybe you've had something similar? BTW I'm about to buy those same headlight fixtures (Akkon). EDIT: I also fixed that bad wiring in the driver side boot myself! I saved hundreds. Only spent $5 on wire nuts. haha. Great video. Thanks!
Thanks for the support man if the clunk is in rear it has to do with rear shocks bushings at frame they sell a kit to fix it aftermarket shocks seem to make noise on these all the time do you have the 4.0?
@@dylansgarage3549 Oh no. The clunk is under the driver side floor board. You can clearly feel metal on metal. Parts to check on next would be: track bar, sway bar, drag link, maybe mounts? I'm not a mech so it's frustrating when my go to my mech who can't figure it out. It's only when I go over potholes or over any moderate rough terrain. I will check those back ones (which haven't give me any trouble) after I solve the front problem....Yes 4.0 I-6.....Thanks in advance if you have any ideas of what it could be! Subbed!
I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 the only issue I'm having is the oil pressure. But I agree that the inline 6 is the best motor I wouldn't trade for anything
@@dylansgarage3549 I've replaced it 2 and the same problem it doesn't start showing low oil pressure until it gets hot I have a video of me going down the road at 50 mi an hour and only showing 5 lb of oil pressure. When I stopped and I'm in park and I give it gas the oil pressure goes up but at cruising speed the oil pressure will slowly go down
Thinkin about pickin one of these up, im going from a 13 veloster turbo and im just concerned about the reliability on these things. Mainly with sensors
4.0 if you want reliable I can guarantee you will not regret it I’ve seen some of them with 500k on original engine sensors arnt to bad of a concern if they go they are cheap and easy to change I’d look more at rust then anything cause they are old now
@@dylansgarage3549 the one im looking at has three rusty spots. The rockers, the gas tank skid plate, and the rear a arm kinda (its not super rusty but its getting there). Its also the 4.0 with selec trac
@@cadencarrithers2339 rockers are normal mine has it also you got two options rock sliders weld in ones or replace rocker panels once you remove the foam Jeep thought was a good idea to put in there it won’t happen again a arm isn’t a big deal you can replace it or if lifting you will probably be replacing it anyways gas tank skid plate also can be replaced for couple hundred bucks I have to do mine also now the good is that’s most reliable engine and the best t case they came with I’d say go for it don’t sound bad at all
Fr my climate control panel went out in mine so the last owner cut up the harness and wired a light switch to the blower motor, which almost caught on fire since I’ve had it so I don’t have any heating/ac. It was 26 degrees this morning on my way to work sucks.😭😭
Did you ever had a leak in the rear cargo compartment when it rains? I have a leak when my sunroof got clogged and i fixed it but now i have a leak on the rear cargo area i cant find where from
I have a 2000 wj it runs fine in the winter but cuts off in the warmer months and won't restart until it cools off. But during that time when you turn the key on the gauges don't move nothing. It'll crank but won't start. Anybody else have this problem and can offer a solution?
