5 construction details that make a boat refit easier

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Our 3 month refit rush to the water begins with the original design details that make a full refit of 1977 Rival 38 Centre Cockpit Ketch much easier.
We throw in our 3 top tips to make a full refit much faster.
Chapters:
0:00 Back at the boat
2:13 GRP Hull, Deck and joint
2:51 Deck without a core
4:44 Keel strength
6:49 No internal GRP mouldings
7:32 A fully separate aft cabin
8:22 Tip 1: Composting toilet
9:29 Tip 2: Remove all headlining
10:45 Tip 3: Replace all the windows
14:17 Bye Jane
Some of the Sailing channels that we have learned from and seen these features work against them are:
Sailing Magic Carpet. / sailingmagiccarpet Their Cape George needing half the deck beams replacing, plus a lot of the plywood deck.
Sail Life: / saillife Mads has replaced the deck core and fixed floor timbers, as well as keel repairs and gutting the interior.
Spoondrifters: / spoondrifters see the issues with their toerail because there wasn't a watertight GRP joint.
Sailing Soulianis: / sailingsoulianis various Deck core issues
Expedition Evans: / expeditionevans full structural rebuild with GRP Linings, Keel joint and iron keel
Beau and Brandy Sailing: / sailingsaoirse they nearly sank because an internal grp moulded water tank cut through the hull and then prevented access. Significant Keel Issues.
Sailing Uma: / sailinguma in the early days they discovered all the internal structure needed to hold their keel on was broken. Huge job to fix it.
Wildlings Sailing. / wildlingssailing Nadiyana did an amazing job restoring their windows. But very, very hard to avoid leaks as nearly every channel with an old boat can't stop the leaks with the original windows.
Look at the refits on "Sailing Uma", "Beau and Brandy Saiiing", "Bums on a Boat", "Sailing the good, bad and ugly", "Free Range Sailing" to see why a separate aft cabin would have helped.
Composting toilet: Look at every boat diong a refit without one, also every boat doing horrible toilet fixes who doesn't have one.
Headlining. An issue for everyone. Even with good headlinings, we suggest taking them down if you have any issues with leaks and not putting them up until the end or you will spend hours taking them down and putting them up multiple times.
Two and a half years ago, when we bought Vida, she was in a very tired and damp condition with all original equipment and fittings (much of it not working). We have removed all the gas, diesel, and paraffin equipment as well as all the plumbing and electrics. We have composting toilets, are installing an electric motor and all electric cooking. We are fitting a huge solar array and probably a wind generator. We have replaced all the windows, removed all the headlining and more. We are replacing all the standing rigging with Dyneema synthetic rigging.
This is the biggest sustainability project of our lives as we prepare for a retirement when we want to cruise the world using zero fossil fuels on a very low budget.
If you would like to support us then please use Ko-Fi to make a donation of any size ko-fi.com/sustainablesailing/
Lots more detail on our blog at sustainablesailing.net/
Visit our shop at sustainablesailing.teemill.com/ for hoodies, t-shirts and bags.
#BoatRefit #sabbatical #launch

Опубликовано:

31 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 14

@Cheers_Warren 2 года назад

I agree 100% with the aft cabin, several more modern wide stern boats have these aft cabins in one form or another and get so much more room for the same length. W

@SustainableSailing 2 года назад

Yes they do but we get the cabin with a hull shape that shouldn't slam :-) Only downside for us is the lack of headroom in the passage to the aft cabin but by removing the narrow doorway and the fuel tank it feels a lot less claustrophobic now :-)

@Cheers_Warren 2 года назад

Great points! Solid fiberglass is much easier to deal with in the long run. I was building fiberglass boat hulls and decks '79 inthe old Tyler boat factory in Kent. We fiberglassed a number of hulls and decks together, ( hustler 35' , deb 33 etc). Not a fun job and has to be done before the interior in put in. Later boat companys I worked for would install as much interior as possible before putting the deck on which improved the production efficiency but did not necessarily help the long term durability.( glassine the hull to deck joint would be impossible of course. In had a small '72 sailboat that I actually fiberglassed the hull to deck joint as it had an open interior and before they started using liners. With modern boats Jeaneau have built up interiors but Beneateau use a lot of internal moldings. Both put deck on later though (they are now under same ownership but building methods are very different ). Cheers Warren

@SustainableSailing 2 года назад

Thanks Warren, good to have your expertise. We hadn't fully connected the dots between the hull/deck joint and the internal mouldings. One of the scare stories that we saw a while ago was when "Beau and Brandy Sailing" nearly sank on passage because their internal moulded water tank under the v-berth wasn't secured to the hull underneath and the corner of the tank had flexed and cracked the hull where it touched. Given the hassle we found getting our new galley bulkhead through the main companionway we certainly see the logic of getting big furniture/bulkheads in before adding the deck.

@Cheers_Warren 2 года назад

B&B was scary! I had a live what's app chat with them on how to fix the crack , they only did the first stage but it worked!

@SustainableSailing 2 года назад

@@Cheers_Warren Glad you were able to help them. Both they and Uma seem to have had significant hull and keel problems 😞

@Cheers_Warren 2 года назад

Re carbon foot print , the fact that you are refurbishing an old boat is saving all the new build 'carbon footprint'. So you don't need to worry. I would try to use modern new components when ever you can ( if budget allows) so you get the longevity and speed up you rebuild.( as you did with the windows). The headliner is a huge issue in so many boats if it's not a fiberglass liner. While removing a liner is a good solution during a rebuild it does help greatly with condensation in cold/wet climates as heat in the tropics so a plan to replace the liner should be part of a rebuild if possible. But they are very hard to do a good job with especially when the deck is in Place! Most liner are installed when the deck is upside down greatly simplifying the process. FYI the adhesive options for a foam backed vinyl , the simplest liner option, are much better that when you boat was built so although I doubt you will do it, it's an easy option. Cheers Warren

@SustainableSailing 2 года назад

Hi Warren, Thanks. Totally agree that we need to fit a headliner. At the same time we want to significantly insulate the boat for more comfort in both hot and cold climates. our plan is to use a 10mm flexible closed cell foam on the deckhead and the sides of the cabin top where there is most curvature and where we need to maintain headroom/space most. That will be covered by thin plywood which will have a painted finish. We are still debating how to secure it so that it can be easily removed to access deck fittings while looking good. For the hull sides and under the side decks we have sheets of 40mm rigid extruded polystyrene which again will be covered by thin painted plywood. One of the challenges is that nothing much sticks to the closed cell foam (we did get a fire resistant foam. We had hoped that at least initially we could simply stick it in place and paint it. But we were unable to get it stick to the deck head reliably and the paint wasn't as flexible as the foam so very quickly cracked.

@Cheers_Warren 2 года назад

If you haven't seen Herbys recent video, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AQv8nYLxrmE.html I think it's an good warning about electric motors and batteries in the bilge. This is not the first time his motors got damaged by bilge water. Since you cannot rely in the motors being properly waterproof they need to be in an above the floor location. Since the old engine was comparatively tall this should be possible even if you have to have a chain/belt drive to the shaft. Something to consider for motor and batteries with easily corroded electronics! Cheers Warren

@SustainableSailing 2 года назад

Yup seen it and starting to lose count of the number of times that they have had their electric motor damaged by water (is it 3 now?). We have built a frame for our motor with a belt drive to the shaft. So it is about 150mm from shaft to bottom of the motor. In addition the shaft is above a 1m deep bilge area at the aft end of the keelp. So we will add a tray below the shaft so that water flowing into that deep bilge goes around the motor. Our batteries are going in the bilge, on top of the encapsulated keel. But we are building a watertight box around them (space for bilge water to run past on either side of the box). I'm going to use watertight glands around the wires coming out of the battery box and all the connections will be higher. Goal is that we would need to have water well above the cabin sole before losing the batteries and motor (plus automatic bilge pump and separate higher bilge alarm to wake the dead).

@CheersWarren 2 года назад

@@SustainableSailing Sounds really good! Clearly you’ve had plenty of time think about it and with the RU-vid examples for us to follow in real time the great resource. Do you have some kind of thrust bearing as your can’t use the bearing in the motor? I was building boats with A builder who did not like to connect all the bilges together his thinking what is that the boat shouldn’t leak and if it does you need to know where it’s leaking from so when you find a compartment with water in it you know approximately where to look for the leak. I don’t agree 100% with his philosophy but as long as one compartment can flow overflow into the next it would work and it also means you don’t drill holes through floor frames that might have wood inside that you will never be able to seal properly as Madds found the wood frames inside is fiberglass floors were totally rotted out. I have to say that any wood that is encapsulated in fiberglass rots sooner or later it’s impossible to seal it perfectly the moisture gets in but does not get out 😄w

@SustainableSailing 2 года назад

We are installing an aqua drive to take the thrust and make alignment easier. Plus we can build a coffer dam around all the seacocks and stern drive using the new bulkhead for the aqua drive as the forward part. So any failure with the only holes in the hull shouldn't cause us to sink.

@SustainableSailing 2 года назад

@@CheersWarren we are cutting the forecabin off from the bilge to create watertight compartments. We will have pump to drain the chain locker (it will use the old shower skin fitting as the shower will go into the grey water tanks). Aft of the forecabin the bilge is the shower drain so that gets it's own pump (and we should fit a diverter valve so that if the shower pump is dealing with a leak it goes overboard and not into the grey water tank. At the forward end of the saloon we have a shallow bilge before it drops onto the encapsulated keel. This has the support for the deck stepped mast which we want to connect through to lightning protection either side of the beginning of the keel (idea is that we should do our best to get lighting to flow down the mast through to the metal mast support and then out through the plates). Currently no such path. With dyneema rigging the mast is the only route for lightning. Aft of this, the first part of deep bilge will be a water tank (using the top of keep and hull as the bottom and sides). There will be a bilge for drainage each side of this which continues past the battery box which will be just aft of the water tank. So no lumber holes (the floor supports will bridge across it), the idea is to make that bilge have a nice smooth curved bottom so that water doesn't get trapped and it is easy to wipe clean. That drains into the deep section of the bilge. There isn't really a bilge in the aft cabin but one day I'd like a false bottom under the bunk as a watertight bulkhead and use the forward end of the bed as a coffer dam so that it comes to above the waterline. Then if we get a leak from the rudder tube again we don't sink.

@CheersWarren 2 года назад

@@SustainableSailing nice, Aqua drive are expensive but Good product . Exactly what I would do👍 I look forward to photos of the Steup