5 Cool 3D Printed Mechanisms 

That's actually pretty brilliant. Hmm!

great, until the robots rise up and axe us!

Umm. They scale to a 1 to 1 ratio. yes the force is higher ifyou drive it starting from the gear meshing from the small end but there isn't any sort of "gearability" (if that makes sense) to increase its lift capacity. Plus it would have to be metal if its going to be a sturdy, long lasting robot.

Yes

Genius

For money!

Same. My lk1 comes next week and my friend keeps asking for apex stuff

same😂

My policy is if you create the model and pay for at least 75% of the filament then go all out, or if you 3D printed ME then everything is free lol

Yep. I remember seeing my first 3D printer commercially available locally. It cost 5500 dollars and was huge.

@@PunakiviAddikti had it a small print bed?

And one piece would take years to make

I would but I wasn't I live then lol

MrRedstone Now they cost $90 and do better jobs then their ancestors.

Jeffrey C thanks

Thanks dude Way too much talking

Thanks so much!

Yes : want the pics, not the words

Thanks!

nice

👌

Spike I

Spike, doesn't Gears fascinate us all. I do think they are part of human nature.

You could very well be right, either that, or it's my inner automaton :-)

congrats i gave you like number 100

You have just reminded me that I need a gear shift for my collection

what did you just say?!

*confused unga bunga*

Jared Kaiser what's WCA?

Michael Bithell World Cube Association. Its a speedcubing community/organization

Michael Bithell yes watz WCA????

Jared Kaiser it’s a mefferts gear shift.

bryan De Zeeuw the gear shift has a slightly different mechanism allowing you to pull two halves apart removing that set from the meshed gears.

Fast printing is the only way to go! That's why I got an SLA printer... wait

I can print the iris box on a JGAurora but speed is everything. I'm trying your gear next!

Gaaa! So much pressure for a newb hillbilly with a cr-10! I was telling Angus I'm going to split the model on thigiverse so parts can be assembled post-print.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DNiuVaoqaE4.html

I was looking for that comment! A man of culture indeed .

Torin very very true

or pi..

Nah. Golden ratio is less rational. Shame about the name but its got the best repeated fraction. Root 2 has the history but its repeated expansion kinda sucks.

Mathematicians: *Upgrades, people, upgrades!*

Definitely love designing my own things!

Polyalchemy elixir , I'll add a link in the description !

Polyalchemy! I think it's nightshade purple

I was going to ask the same question. Wow, that's fantastic filament!!

A very deep and rich color, i will need to get a couple spools myself.

Bruce Jackson pretty sure it’s nightshade elixir

wtf

𝕎𝕋𝔽

I finally have a reason to live. Thank you.

@@tanzkoyolforever7743 *hooray*

A cool person gave it to me :P

Hmm. EVERYTHING IS AWESOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOME

Everything is awesooooooooooommmmmmme

Everything is cool when you’re part of a team

Everything is awesomeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Everything is cool when you need a big poo

Is it done yet

@@mateuszodrzywoek8658 maybe they printed in ABS and didn't have air circulation.

Angus Cos hey I am from Sydney Australia. I was like you and didn’t know what printer to get. I went with the JGaurira A5 from LightInTheBox. Must say it’s such a great printer and LightInTheBox sent it out with in a week and got it within 3 weeks of purchase. Anyway good luck with your decision

I'll definitely look into it, thank you!

I have a Cocoon Create Touch. If you can get your paws on one they are a decent printer for the price and you learn so much about printing with it.

Dont buy the Tevo Tornado. I bought it and its needs to much tuning to suceed a decent print. If you dont mind spending money a Ultimaker would really blow your mind. If thats too expensive you should buy a Prusa i3 mk3 (or another version) If thats too expensive too I would recommend a Chinese printer and buy the Cr-10(s) or JGAurora A5 Prisewise the JGAurora is the best Best results you will get from the Ultimaker(5). Dont buy a SLA printer for the first one

Just to confuse the issue - my Tornado worked out the box and and as my first 3D printer I couldn't be happier. Really decent community of people to help you tinker with it as well (I'm drawing a line between tuning and tinkering) as well. However, I'll agree some people have had a bit less luck. CR10(s) was what I'd settled on - but Tornado is significantly cheaper if you can grab a sale and has better mains-powered bed (so trade those points off against maybe needing to adjust on arrival). Maybe other advantage is new Tornados come with Makerbase Gen-L board - I didn't get one, but bought one for about $15 and then maybe $25 for a set of TMC stepper drivers which I'm going to have a play with over the weekend... ...maybe the problem is defining what's meant by a "starter printer". Do you want to just print something - or have a hankering to learn to compile some Arduino firmware and build your own DuPont connectors? Personally I think the important thing is just to pull the trigger and get yourself a nice cheap Chinese model. You'll learn a lot and whatever you buy you'll: 1) Decide whether or not printing is for you 2) If 1=Love, then decide you need a better printer. Then you can embark upon the eternal question of whether to buy yet more bits to swear at as they initially don't work - or just bite the bullet and get a Prusa (which as far as I can see is universally accepted as the best value printer in existence).

I recommend the tronxy x1 , I discuss it in my budget makerspace project videos

I would recommend the MOD-t, but New Matter went out of business. I picked up how to use it in a day or two and now I'm the most knowledgable 3D printer guy at my school.

Dang, and I just ordered a Creality Ender 3

MOD-t has no weird issues that other printers have. The head is extremely stable and fixed in place, the bed just moves to print. It doesn't have a huge print area but it's reliable.

I printed many of them on the Cetus Mk2, which has a rough print surface and really needs a raft. You don't need it for any of them except maybe the Gear Bearing if you have trouble.

I’ve got an Anet A8 with a glass bed. I guess it’s time for trial and error.

Eric Ka I also have an Anet A8 with a glass bed, and I have spent a good deal of time getting it tuned perfectly. It has a few of the standard mods such as frame stiffeners and belt tensioners. I have successfully printed all of these models without rafts. It took me 4 attempts at the iris to finally get one that worked, probably because I was using a cheap PLA. But hey, it worked! And who says you can't get great prints with an A8? Rubbish!

well there are some pretty good ones for 200 bucks or less

IAmPattycakes ya, when I first saw it, it reminded me of the Gear Shift

Angus' unite!

so does Angus beef

Ikr? Every damn time I hear that damn string of words I die a little inside.

uriel galindo orozco get the monoprice mini printer. Amazing quality and it’s only $200

you're doiing youtube embedded vids right? not downloading and uploading yourself?

@@Andy_ARBS i believe so, and anything i post that was not created by me has proper tagging to the original sourc ect and shoutouts.

I really really need a haircut ;.;

dont worry you are still cute even if it is long :P

Haha, have to use them on the cetus ;) worth it for print quality and ease of use tbh

I don’t understand, why do people think rafts are gross or bad? Do they make the designs at the end look bad?

I'm just kidding you know, they are a great tool. I just like to save on some filament if possible.

Soulsbreaker oh ok, that makes sense. Sorry -it was a legit question, I wasn’t trying to poke fun.

I'd rather spend a little bit extra filament on a successful print than spend a lot on a failed one 😉