Yes - write the name of the area on the block too. If the block is in the middle of the wall (i.e. towel bar or toilet paper holder), I write the dimensions from left edge to wall, right edge to wall, etc. so that I can locate it exactly once sheetrocked. Photos rule the world!
@@crabkilla Agree. When you take the photo, you have the context of what you are looking at. When you look at the photo later, you lose that context, so writing a short note is a great idea.
I label the PHOTO using a code: what/where/dimensions, so, by it's name I can easily locate what I'm looking for years down the road. As well as labeling the photo itself.
@@NunYaaBizz not necessarily, and if you mount bumper type doorstops where the door handle meets the wall, there are no protrusions getting in the way of vacuuming.
TV wall mount blocking and wall mount safe blocking in a closet. Those wall mount key safes are perfect for quick locked items like keys, laptops, cash, etc.
For a media wall to add 55 or + Lcd screen, on what's 2x4, stucco, felt/paper, 1/2" drywall: any leads to links on rules to add the TV blocking ? This will include routing new coax media cable & add a 7' high 110v electrical box.
For a media wall to add 55 or + Lcd screen, on what's 2x4, stucco, felt/paper, 1/2" drywall: any leads to links on rules to add the TV blocking ? This will include routing new coax media cable & add a 7' high 110v electrical box.
Hey Matt, I've watched a ton of your videos and this was the only time I heard you mention preparing your house for the inevitable final years/months. You mentioned blocking for the dreaded bathroom grab rail. In line with the subject, I've been sketching in minimum 44" wide doorways in my "forever house" plans on account of the possibility of having to, or more to the point, wanting to be able to move a hospital bed from one room to another. The reason is to avoid ending up literally trapped in one room in your final months, as my father was. There comes a point where getting into a wheel chair becomes impossible, and if you're stuck in a hospital bed that won't fit through a 38" bedroom doorway, that's where you'll be staying for the duration. The beds that are delivered for home care are usually around 36"-40" wide, +you need room to maneauver. Being trapped in one room puts immense stress on both you and your family and caregivers. And being able to be moved around on at least one floor and see out different windows can become a real quality of life issue for everyone. I could write a book on the subject. I'd love to see you address mobility issues for the wheelchair and bed-bound, and how to prep a house build along these lines: having non-carpeted floor or a removable carpet for rolling wheels, building a bathroom and shower that you can roll a shower wheelchair into, how to prep for mobility issues in a two-story home, etc. Most homes are built in dimensions that are not only antithetical to end of life care, but downright antagonistic. :: Thanks for all the great videos.
Great comment. My mom is in a wheelchair, and she is able to get into most areas of the house, but her guest bathroom door is not wide enough. She has the same problem with bathroom access at my sister’s houses, she can’t get the wheelchair through the door. I hadn’t even considered having to move a bed around the house at some point in the future, something to think about as she is considering moving and possibly building a new home. Thanks for the comment, and if you have any more thought or ideas, please feel free to add them.
Terrific comment. I would add that some historic homes cannot be renovated to widen hallways and doorways. This is the case at my house. I am adding a Stiltz lift so I can access both the first and second floors as long as possible. I will have curbless showers in the bathrooms and other aspects of universal design. And I am adding a rooftop deck on the second floor level to make it possible to get some fresh air, But, when it comes to wheelchair, it will depend on using a transport wheelchair that will fit through doors and hallways that are too narrow for a standard wheelchair.
Because closets have studs going all the way across and TV's can be mounted anywhere. So unless it is a custom build they leave that up to the owners interpretation.
I would also add blocking for coat hooks in the mud room or at front door, if you leave the coats on the hook instead of a foyer closet. Especially up north, snow jackets and heavy winter coats.
The one area that everyone forgets to cross block is where a door handle might puncture the sheetrock. If you have renters, you know what I'm talking about.
I've done tonnes of blocking on many projects in all the areas mentioned, but also shower/tub sides/ends, pedestal sinks and floating vanity locations, chandelier or ceiling fan locations, sides of window headers for valances and curtain rods, in closets for shelving/clothes hanging accessories, garage door header sides/ceilings, exterior/interior walls for hvac mini-split locations and mechanical room walls for hanging equipment.
ADA requires 6" blocking at tubs and toilets. A 2x6 is only 5.5". Other places to add blocking is walls that will have a TV mounted, closet rods and shelf supports, mechanical closets, exterior walls for awnings, or anywhere you plan to hang more than 25 lbs. I also like to do plywood under the sheetrock in garages.
When I took off a bunch of drywall to run new electrical, low voltage, reinsulate, and add blocking, I made sure to take pretty detailed measurements of almost everything and turned it into a sketchup model. It's super handy to remember exactly where a particular cable, pipe, or blocking might be in the wall.
Just don't forget to print out all the important bits in case the computer dies or sketchup stops working. Taping the laminated printout to the inside of a cupboard door will make it much harder to lose that data - so long as no small children have access to the cupboard in question.
I worked in Germany a few years back. People take their entire kitchen and electrical fixtures with them when they move. I wouldn't think OSB would support heavy kitchen cabinets.
@@garryharris3777 no problem with cabinets falling down with osb and drywall. We have been using it for many years as a standard for building houses. And as for taking fixtures in germany that may be True. In sweden all appliances remains(washer,dryer, freezer and so on)in the house or apartment only light fixtures is removed. If its not a spotlight they stay.
For years I designed art galleries, which we would use 1/2” plywood behind the drywall, to be prepared for any size or placement of artwork. And then carried over this practice in the kitchen design especially when we had a kitchen with floor ceiling cabinets and backsplash. We were also hopefully suspended base cabinets.
Since you're going to put blocking anywhere on a wall that a screw might ever go into, you should just cover the whole inside of every room with half-inch plywood the ultimate block - drywall guy will like it - all glue just 4 screws - strong house also - mild insulation value
Back in mid 90s, when I built my home, I installed recessed 2x10 blocking laid flat, in the ceiling for mounting my ceiling fans. A little overkill, but the mount is solid, with never any vibration. I had trusses at 2ft oc .. with 5/8" firecode DW screw attached. Avg ranch home, but better than contractor grade materials, and construction..
@@brianabington2833 Steel anchor box screwed into 2x10. Steel Romex connectors holding wiring. I didn't use anything less than #12 /2 with ground, throughout house. Fans with light kits, received #12/3 with ground. My personal opinion, #14 is a waste of time and effort, with minimal savings. I guess for a subdivision, that savings might be justified.
I work at an insulation company and install garage doors on my own, so I see the bare bones of a house every day. It's amazing to see the care some builders take a the lack of from some. Certain national builders stop at the kitchen, others it feels like every bay. Welbilt of leesport PA goes as far as creating a build book for all vital measurements post drywall like blocking, utilities and stud spacing. Little details matter in choosing a home builder
I am planning my forever home at 42 years old. Everything is being planned on 1 level and 100% handicap accessible. Large oversized walk in shower that will allow a wheelchair or walker, bench, and a 2nd person with plenty of space, all doors wide enough for hospital bed, wheelchair, walker access, entry doors extra wide and minimal step with easy future ramp install. Cannot really plan cabinet height but even if in a wheelchair normal counter height is acceptable. My wife and I agreed, we are dying in this house. Not a nursing home if we can prevent it. So his adding a grab bar blocking for in the future is ingenious. My home will have it already, not later. And at the moment, neither of us have any handicaps.
Added blocking for wall mounted microwave above kitchen stove. Thanks for posting these suggestions, have not found a concise listing of what to block. Articles were very helpful too.
You put it above your stove? I'm planning my next house to have a wall mounted oven and the microwave under it - I don't want a whole lot of steam rising up into the microwave electronics.
@@tealkerberus748 In the US some microwave models are designed with integrated exhaust fans built into them that tie into ductwork to draft air from the stove top specifically to remove steam, smoke, etc.
I have a couple of interior security cameras, so that is a fine place to consider blocking. And anywhere you think you'll put coathooks and key racks. I've had to retro a few older homes, and I love finding plywood behind my sheetrock!
Or you can cover the whole framing with OSB on the interior, (except on the ceiling) then add the drywall. We do that in my country and it makes a Huge difference. With that, the wall becomes a true wall where you can put screws and hang things wherever you like. (Not a boiler of course) Also a vapor barrier would be a nice addition to protect the insulation.
Thanks Matt for this video! And thanks to so many of the commenters who suggested blocking for window treatments. Make sure the blocking extends at least 16" (more if you can) from each vertical side of the window. Even if you're installing shades rather than curtains I recommend blocking because home owners may decide to change their decor after a couple of years. This is such a valuable tip, Matt.
Pantry selves can get heavy, closet rods can get overloaded, anywhere large pictures, mirrors, or artwork might get hung in living, family, or dining rooms. Like Matt says, use up the scraps cause it's better to have them in there before drywall, than to retrofit it afterward. I like to give everyone a chance with a crayon to imagine where they would put those. It's fun, and the kids have come up with some great places, they think outside the box because to them anything is possible..
heavy framed mirrors and art work TV mounts (I put bolts inside the wall. Had a recessed hole in the face of the blocking, then used a nut and lock washer to keep it from ever backing out. Pressed the dry wall against the bolts to mark, drilled the holes, then secured mount with flat washers and locking nuts
I would put in grab bars (toilet and shower) right from the get-go. That's what I did when I remodeled my master bath & I have not regretted it. I learned my lesson years ago when I had an accident and broke my kneecap. Grab bars are not just for the elderly. I strongly believe in universal design (stuff like wide doors for wheelchair / gurney access, grab bars, low or no-curb shower entries, cabinet design in bathrooms especially to allow wheelchair use. The future sneaks up on you fast, and you have no way of knowing when / if someone will have a medical issue. Easy to address those concerns now. As for blocking, definitely need anywhere you're going to hang a big TV--so much easier than trying to hit framing.
@@tealkerberus748 it is not that cold, but it is pretty windy. But i guess it is to strengthen the walls, so the plaster doesnt break just leaning on it.
Closets for wire shelving. Toddler’s rooms for anti-fall furniture straps. I like to band the top of any room getting crown molding. Pocket screws and some 1x stock like you did with the 3/4 ply. Makes hanging crown a lot easier.
In my old house, I put up blocking for all the crown and tall baseboards. Where I live now, I am just finishing up the basement - put up blocking for wainscotting. It was great hanging all that stuff without having to worry about stud placement for even one second. Also, as others have said, blocking for the TV wall mount.
Hinged shower doors usually require a pretty solid blocking, if it is not already taken care off with a double stud. Also, if you plan on installing a solar system, it is a good idea to have some blocking inbetween roof rafters where the mounting rails will go onto. Third I think of some blocking in the garage, where heavy wall mounted shelving can be attached to or a bicycle rack or you name it. And if you plan on installing wall mounted batteries like the TESLA Powerwall - blocking would be helpful as well!
Yes, only to be reminded of the things I didn't do last summer. I knew to block the bathroom sink and where my kitchen 12v stretched cable lighting was going. Didn't bother with the rest of that stuff and it came out fine. I have never blocked a TP or towel bar. Drywall anchors are pretty good these days.
Love your videos, I always learn tons. I’ve been a carpenter for 17 years now. Specialize in trim carpentry. I’ve had blocking for in the shower for grab bars in the showers. Blocking for glass shower door brackets. I like to throw some 2x whatever is left around the tv wall mount areas, I know there’s stubs but for the amount of time it takes to just make live easier down the road. Next depends on the customers and the project but barn door tracks, again studs and sometime headers are there but if not I block it. Keep up the great work. Love geeking out on the building science you show.
Thoughtful video! I would add window treatment. This may be tough to anticipate where your significant other may want heavy drapes/curtains, but certainly needs some blocking.
2x8 blocks between studs on a slope where roof butts into a wall if you are laying brick. Makes it easier to bolt angle irons on wall at the sloped roof. Also be sure walls around shower pans are blocked. If you are hanging mirrors over vanities, block between studs to attach mirrors.
blocking for grab bars and stair rails is just great advice, have seen them get ripped off the walls in multiple houses due to missing structural framing or not enough support. Just wanted to ping on the pocket door piece, you actually made a note with an arrow calling for 5/8 on the pocket door and you undersized with 7/16 plywood - cheaping out :)
Floor blocking was a new one on me. Usually, old school framers double plate the stud wall so the finish framer, and Sheetrock installer can hit something solid every time. When you frame you pretty much layout the entire floor with your bottom plate, then you tilt up, and nail your compete stud wall you assembled on the floor on top of the plate. It's about the same amount of nails, but you save time on cutting or scavenging cut-offs, and then custom fitting them in each void.
Matt didn't mention cabinet in the bathroom blocking. Heavy medicine cabinets need something esp if the house doesn't have typical 16 on center. *Maybe someone mentioned and I didn't see it* :)
Since I plan to live in a small space I would just go ahead and use plywood on all the walls. Run electrical in a metal conduit on top of walls. Run fiber optics to a router and DAC cable to devices in close proximity. Would rather put plumbing in the walls but keep the runs to the minimum, probably, would cut long access panels in plywood.
In kitchens, it's just easier to sheet the entire room in plywood before sheet rock. This gives you the ability to set a screw anywhere and makes remodels and other changes easier later on. It's the same thing I advise for my model railroad clients doing new builds.
Blocking in the middle of the ceiling for a fan or chandelier, above the bathroom mirror for lights, in the study or office for shelving, behind doors for high or low doorstops, by exit doors for key racks and coat hangers, in the kitchen for racks that hang pots and pans, bedrooms where tvs might be desired, foyer for bike hangers, closets for shelves.
Blocking for wall mounted big screen tv's is also a good idea. I also like to keep my wiring a foot from the floor where it goes thru the studs. Most people never put nails there.
In your garage, installing both blocking for your garage door roller guide tracks and your garage door opener support hangers. Another item to install for your garage door opener is an extra electrical junction box for your garage door opener control wiring. How many times have I been in a finished garage and when you look up at the garage door opener you see the electrical outlet with its trim cover plate that power the opener but off to the side is a bare hole in the ceiling with the opener control wiring hanging from the hole.
I may have missed you saying it but tv mounts, tankless water heater’s. In my case I’m blocking for radiant floor manifold and for my water filters. I love your videos I have learned so much from them while trying to build my house
Blocking for crown molding is a plus too if part of the trim package ,did it for 14 years and you never know how much it helps until your on some ladders and find you have to cross nail in the hopes to hold it tight till the painters caulk because there’s no blocking on the walls that run the same direction as the ceiling joist .
Add blocking for your crown mold and fire extinguishers. Even though you'll probably use some sort of a wall bumper or floor stop at the doors it wouldn't hurt to add a piece of plywood behind the sheet rock at the door knobs just in case the door hits the wall. It really does stiffen the drywall. Along with taking pictures of The blocking it wouldn't hurt to note the dimension to the center of the blocking from the floor up and the dimension from the corner to the blocking on the drawings.
If your stove vent hood is against a wall that is a place that bit me in the past. There are a lot of comments on here about things like TVs and Matt points out the heated towel bar. Probably safe to say think what specialty appliances are going to be or could be installed and make sure those are blocked out for.
You missed blocking for door handle stops. Not the baseboard one but the one that goes at the handle level. Also, maybe some blocking for curtain rod holders
@@outlawgentleman8860 I know that good rational people follow your suggestion BUT a good portion of people now have the behavior of Vandals who don't know and don't care so a door knob reinforcement really does stop punch throughs.
Adding blocking around windows for curtain rods is a good idea unless you know you will be using inside framing blinds. Many curtain styles include rods mounted well above or wide of the window framing. Not to mention many framers are switching to using headers up against the top plates and filling the rest with cripples that means you will often only have a single 2x along the top and two studs (one king, one jack) on either side. Once the trim is installed there is little to no framing available for mounting
Blocking at top and bottom of stairs for baby gates, side of king studs at top of window openings for curtain rod brackets, blocks at bottom of door king studs and inside corners for base trim.
TV wall mounts, Shower Glass doors, Work bench areas in the garage or where you want to have wall mounted brackets for countertops or shelves and Fire Place mantels.
I block my closets for wire racking and the fireplace for a Tv/Mirror/Picture. I also block bathrooms above the vanity for mirrors. I block showers/tubs for diverter valves and shower head plumbing.
I use a speedbore bit to drill “pockets” on four corners of the block and then angle screws into the pocket and into the adjoining stud. You can also use a screwed on piece of 1 by 2 /3 to help hold the block flush while you fasten it.
Thank you for making this video. I agree that blocking is SOOOO important and really makes a difference when you have to install your finishes on a house. Do you install your most of your blocking before or after your trades? When I started out as an electrician 25 years ago, I didn't see too much blocking being installed. I can see where some of the blocking could make it harder to install the mechanicals and drilling holes.
Shower door blocking for frameless shower doors. Bought a house flip with 3 fully renovated bathrooms. None of them have extra studs for hardware mounting. I’ll be ripping out sheet rock surrounding the master shower to add 2-2x4s on both sides but you could also block with 2x6. Wish the contractor had thought about it before hand though :(
Door knob pop hole, bathroom lightbar, wall sconces, porch lights, tub and shower grab bars, doorbell, doorbell transformer, garage tool rack, curtain rods or valances,
