Learn about Blocking in Wall Framing - TEACH Construction Wall Framing Lesson Video Series 

Our pleasure!

Glad you like them!

Certainly - blocking is added for all sorts of reasons. We hope it is installed sparingly to allow for as much insulation as possible

Welcome aboard!

Can’t say I heard that adjective before, I will try to work it into my next conversation. B

Thanks for the kind words. We plan our videos for school aged youth with little to no experience. That way they work for everyone.

Glad it was helpful! - Fire blocking is not always required - it is based on the height of the walls.

Thanks for the complement and visiting our channel

Thanks for the comment - we may have a couple of week break in new content release as we focus on helping out our teacher community with the new school year.

Glad you enjoyed it!

sure thing

Thanks, we appreciate it

Thank you.

Thanks for the nice comment about our video. The sheathing is only "required" for shear strength on certain walls - not all walls. Often, modern homes are sheathed all over for a variety of reasons other than strength. It could be as a backing for a bulk water control layer like Tyvek or part of a required air barrier system. Thus why you could see 1/2 drywall in some places. If you are insulating and then adding drywall to your attached garage wall please make sure that you spend time on air sealing any cracks first, that is the best conditioning that you can do, then add the insulation and drywall on the garage side. I don't know what part of the country you live in, but you should consider the location of any vapor barrier also.

thanks

The bottom of the studs is not the problem - that is held in place with nails. Studs can twist and bow - then you can use blocking as a preventative measure and put them somewhere in the middle

@@ConstructionEd Thank you for the prompt response.

Not sure what you mean about elevations and specifically the math for civil work. It is not likely that we will add civil construction to our plan reading series.

It can be at 6ft - but check your local code before you call for an inspection.

If the blocks themselves every two feet are inadequate for your code/standards, you can use a 2x6 stud as a drywall nailer, centered at the end of the perpendicular wall, then add blocking behind the 2x6 to support, plumb up, and straighten your perpendicular wall.

Sorry, we don't have any on that, as that is a little more involved than a basic framing series. If you do it be careful and make sure you have the bearing points supported when you are replacing the wall. If you are actually thinking about permanently removing a load-bearing wall - just don't.

Blocking can be installed in any area that is 100% needed. I say 100% because in some climate zones blocking should not be added with wild abandonment. It added to thermal bridging and reduces the space for correct insulation installation

Not all blocking is the same, those two time stamps you provided are talking about two different types of blocking. Fire blocking is face up to seal the wall cavity and edge support blocking (which is NOT fire blocking) can be placed edge up.

The height of blocking is not universal. Install where it is needed for backing, if you are adding fire blocking it is usually installed midway up the wall

welcome

One of the pieces of blocking can nailed in the end through the stud and then the other end can be toe-nailed in place.

Half of them are glued ;)

Stagger slightly. You don't have to toe nail one side but that's an option. You can thru nail just above and below existing block to reach next block. You can also toenail in the face side, for those short blocks at the corner where neither nailer or hammer can fit.

maybe. But Norbord is pretty excited about their tall board product that is designed to be installed vertically. Sheathing that overlaps the floor above.