This is good if you have only a pile of zip ties. If you have extra shift housing caps and a sharp knife, cut the cable exit end off and thread the zip tie through that eliminates a zip tie "spacer" and head and looks quite a bit cleaner. Also, do some dry runs with the zip ties threaded through the head upside down so you can visualize where you want the unsightly head to be so you don't put it all together and wish you'd done it the other direction.
I use the S-hooks from Jagwire. They also have some nice rubber things to prevent the cables from rubbing on the paint. I also use some Jagwire Elite Links for my rear brake cable, otherwise the cable would be cut all the time in the frame's internal routing hole.
Have you seen the heat shrink fabric? More flexible than traditional heat shrink tubing, more abrasion resistant, and won't trap water like the solid stuff either. And most importantly, it looks sweet. It's not too expensive, but I could only find it from a specialty online supplier like McMaster.
I bought a bunch of these rubbery spiral doodads that I can put on the cable housing where it strikes the frame, keeping the housing away from the frame. Cheap and they work well.
I've found silicon tape a better solution than heat shrink because you can just wrap it on like tape It's often sold as chain stay or frame protection tape, no adhesive but sticks to itself really well.
Self-fusing silicone tape is really great. I have some F4 tape (red with blue stripe) and some XFasten tape (clear). Both F4 and XFasten are available in black as well. It's quite stretchy so you can wrap it tighter if you want. Once it fuses to itself it will not unravel. There is no adhesive on the tape, the silicone rubber literally fuses to itself (so handle it with care or it may stick where you didn't intend it to). If you need to remove the tape, carefully make a small incision at one end with a sharp knife, then pull it apart. As silicone rubber is not particularly strong, you will be able to just rip it (much easier than with electrical tape).
All great tips. Have you seen discolouration in the clear frame protectors? In the old frame sticker kits the tape would turn yellow. Bike frame would possibly look better with scratches.
I don't know what they're called but it's this "spiral" plastic that you wrap around the cables near the handle bars. The spiral plastic holds multiple cables together for a clean look to the frame. Just make sure the cables are similar lengths so you can bring them together.
This is usually referred to as "wire loom". I've seen it as a spiral wound plastic as well as a plastic mesh. I like the plastic mesh a little better because it uses a slot to insert / remove the cable, so it's a touch easier to add/remove cables.
I actually bought several meters of that for office cable management and ended up trying it on my bike. It actually looks pretty clean. Not as clean as heat shrink, but not nearly as troublesome to install and maintain.
The cables on my bike are obstructing the light, so im watching this video to get some ideas. I think my cables are slightly long, so I can either shorten them or use a zip tie to keep them out of the way. Im gonna try zip tie first and see how it goes.
How much slack should you have in the front of the bike for brake lines? I'm routing new brake lines as I have a new handlebars. Is it just enough for handle bars to have free movement?
This varies depending a bit on preference but typically you want to be ablt to turn drop bar bike 90 degrees in both directions without pulling the housing. On flat bars some people go for 90 degrees of freedom but sometimes you want 180 degrees of free movement. The more likely you are to crash the more you want to be able to rotate without damaging the cable or housing.
I will get a 5mm length of silicone hose, thread a cable tie through, around a brake hose or cable then tread back through the silicone hose. You can now wrap the tie around the bike frame. This will secure the cable or brake hose but not crush it or deform it by the cable tie as the silicone prevents this
On just about any frame with an under-BB cable guide, the best way to protect the paint on the head tube is to route the rear shifter to the left cable stop, the front shifter to the right cable stop, and cross the cables below the downtube. While it may be theoretically possible that the cable stops could be positioned to cause the cables to rub the paint, I have yet to run into that on one of my real-world bikes. This routing naturally keeps the housing away from the head tube, so there's never any paint rub.
The bike in video uses that type of routing and still contacts the frame. The only housing that is routed to the same side the lever is on is the dropper post. That was a design flaw IMO. But yes! Crossing typically solves many issues and we do chat about this in our cable and housing install videos.
S clips and zip ties are great also on bicycles without internal cabling. Zip tie the cables on the frame aince you don't have internal cables. Brake cables need to be ziptied I guess
the edges of those zipties functioning as spacers look like they would cut through the hoses much faster than if you had not tried to "remedy" with zipties in the first place... :)
Speaking from experience? Cable ties edges are pretty smooth in my opinion, it's not a sharp 90 degree corner. But the cut end can be pretty sharp, I use a diamond file or some sandpaper on these wherever relevant.
I bought those S-hooks(Jagwire) and they are complete shit. You have to constantly rearrange them because they move, and they do hardly nothing to actual rattling noises. The last thing is they for some reason cost about what you'd pay for genuine vanilla except one is just tiny niblets of plastic, and the other is actually useful. Just tape the hoses together and problem solved.
Hi! This video is focused on Cable Management tips. We do have an entire playlist about handlebars, so maybe your answer is there: ru-vid.com/group/PLGCTGpvdT04T_783SX3q7iiNI7RcQwul2
2:27 this is so obviously staged. In a real shop environment it would take at least 10 times that long to actually put a thing through a hole like that
@@ivanrybkin9384 when brake cables bend the effective cable length inherently get slightly longer. shift cables will remain a constant length even if they bend. if your cables are binding during turning you should think about lengthening the cables
