@@deanslegos1990 lol yes I remember. There was also a Jensen bandpass box where I went. Those bandpass setups never sounded as good as the other setups though
@@CarAudioFabrication yes because most of the pyramid flagship line their coveted gold series except for 3 things is probably the most issues I've ever had with pyramid products, and it isn't car audio but about the only competition products I've used that seems to be useable and a really good product is competition cams!?
Before the internet they were one of the few ways a person from a rural area could learn about and compare gear. Where I grew up there wasn't a hifi or car audio shop for 100+ miles. The quarterly Crutchfield catalog was a big deal
@@303nitzubishi4 Same here. The old catalog was chocked full of data. I used to study specs for hours. I blew every dime on car audio gear. My parents thought I was nuts. They weren't too far off
Mike Cheeze this ☝️CEA2006 is for amplifiers, CEA2010 for speaker drivers. Many companies are also based in countries where its not uncommon to straight up lie about ratings. This is a huge problem with consumer products and their electrical safety certificates. Basically they are selling potentially deadly products and marking them as CE or UL compliant. Very common in cheap products. You get what you pay for. A red flag in car audio products are items mainly advertising their max ratings and usually having very limited specifications available.
Back in highschool i had subs to be loud and cool. Now I have a sub like you said add the bass that you door speakers can’t handle. Lol I have a kicker CompR at 600 RMS and I have it tuned down. Dynomat in doors, roof and back of cab. I’ve been told oh your stereo is loud I can barely hear it outside the truck. That comment changes when they sit in the seat.
And in my humble opinion, you now have the best type of car sound. I was into competitions etc back in the day and hit 152.2db with 2 x 12" subs. That was damn loud - I'd play a bit of a ballad and out-bass guys with 2x 15's playing EDM (Literally happened, at a packed car wash and it was pretty damn funny). Anyway, my point is, that I guess when we're young we want to be a bit showy - so we go for the kind of loud that rattles house windows of the girls we're interested in when we rock up but as some of us age, we realise that the quality aspect of loud makes loud EVEN BETTER.
Wesley Petersen very true. Lol just Thursday before leaving work I sat to get updates on the Raptors winning and was playing my music. Lol coworker says oh that sounds good outside your truck for a stock stereo. Lol so I had to pop the seat up and show him it’s definitely not stock. I only had the volume to 20 and it goes to 50. Again another person mind changed. And my Alpine amps are about to be 10 years old.
Yep. Both my trucks aren't that loud outside, but PLENTY inside. I make a 150W Kicker 10 put out great in my single cab Ranger with my custom designed ported box. Am I blowing out eardrums, no, but it's plenty loud inside for any kind of normal or "spirited" listening.
Here’s one I heard a long while ago “Turn the gain up all the way and control the sub volume in the head unit”. Also, “capacitors make your subs hit harder” “you need to warm the sub up every time you use it” “bass boost is real”
There actually are merits to that, but by no means that should be rule of thumb. People should just learn the shit to do to right thing, or let others do that. You think you´re going to be an aerospace engineer after reading two days on google? :-D
I feel like you almost created a new myth with #2.. A 3dB increase, doubles the sound intensity, which is why adding a 2nd speaker typically gives you 3dB(sometime more). You need 10dB to double the perceived loudness. So you weren't lying, but at the same time there's a difference between sound intensity and loudness. You also need twice the power to gain 3dB, so after a certain power level, adding more speakers becomes more efficient than adding more power.
I've tried to tell a couple buddies that a perfectly planned and installed sub under a seat will add the hard hitting bass needed/wanted if it is facing down, protected from elements (tools, feet) as opposed to facing them forward unprotected from elements.
Good explanation of how to damage a speaker by overdriving an underpowered amplifier. This is so easy to do when the amplifier 'not quite capable' of reaching the speaker extreme rating and one tries to get there, anyway.
Small woofers aren't faster than large woofers. If it were faster it would be a tweeter. How tight a woofer sounds has to do with how damped the resonance is, not the size of the cone.
Adding acoustic fiber fill is intended to cause waveform scatter as the cone goes through its excursions. This will reduce parallel waveform reflections that can cause increases or decreases in loudness at specific frequencies, based on the tuning size of your enclosure.
Myth-ish. Proper deadening/batting/box construction can make a small volume box sound better than a poorly made larger volume box, but not really make up for the lost airspace. If you were to swap out the oversized sub with one designed for the smaller, deadened box you would still get an additional improvement in sound quality ( if the speakers were otherwise the same).
While it shouldn't be the sole deciding factor, sub size does affect sound quality. An 8 inch sub, having less mass and restriction, can move faster and provide better accuracy for fast bass (rock music) when compared to anything larger. The larger the speaker is, the easier it is to reproduce lower frequency. This comes at a trade off, worse transient response. Fast rock gets muddled by large subs, regardless of cabin size. An 8" sub will never hit as low as as a 15", regardless of cabin size.
Great video. I think one thing you should have considered with your adding another sub analogy was amplifier final impedance. If you add another sub and it's wired in parallel with the other one, given that amplifier can handle the final impedance of them both, it's likely pushing nearly twice the wattage, this is the case with a lot of amplifiers. I'm sure you realized this, but just figured I'd mention it, great stuff man!
OK brother I got 2 12" subs rated @3000 and 2 amps rated @40001 Amp rated1000 for tweeters.is it to much or not enough? Going in a Chevy van full size. How am I doing on it. I want the thing to blow stuff up.
Couldn't stress how important the sub box is. It's more important than the sub. I started off trusting a local car audio guy and installed and he cost me thousands. I told him what kind of sound I wanted. At the time I had a 250rms system. Long story short. He put 2 12s that need 3.5 cubic feet of air space in a 2.9 cubic foot (including port are and disblasment) box and hooked it up to a 750rms amp. Subs were 750 rms each. And ran a 4 gauge from front battery all the way back. I even got a brand new excelon kenwood deck 5v output. Spent thousands, and it sounded like my 250 rms 1 older shit sub. Took me a year to fully understand sound systems. 2 blown subs later .... I finally got pissed enough and built my own box in a 1 bedroom condo w the wife yelling. Jigsawed the wholes on the lil balcony. Anyways. If I saw this video a year ago I would of saved thousands. Mark speaks the absolute truth about car audio. Thanks buddy.
@@Dude-Smellmyhelmet well. New kenwood excelon deck. New 2 channel amp which he used for mids and highs. New 12s 2 of them. New mono amp + install. Do the math. And in talking Canadian dollars. I was noob and didnt even know what the difference between 2 or 4 channel amp was back then. Do you know the difference?
I bought an old school L7 12 dvc 2ohm secondhand sub for $300, designed and built my own ported box (90ish litres) for $50 and embarrassed all my mates who had spent thousands on brand new top of the line gear.
Yeah i spent alot of money 2 on different set ups ..im still spending money because my amp went out lol i had to learn 2 not 2 trust the audio shops ..
Ye my dad taught me how to do car audio and he was a competition builder only worked wit 18s n 15s all 0gauge Memphis wire 2 orion 20k watt amps 12 6 1/2 n 6 6×9 so when I say you can trust me You can trust me with your money not like these shops over pricing for shitty stuff
How to calculate, what size of subwoofer is best for Opel Astra 2006 hatchback? I like sound quality, and i want fast Base for rock music but sometimes i want lows also. Ive been thinking about two 10 inch with closed enclosure. What do you think? Thank you. :)
I'm 45 and have had a sub in my cars all my life. Nothing crazy like back in the 90s when I had a Sony mobile ES complete system with 1600 watts 1000 to the subs and I had 6 10 disc cd changers Daisy chained. Now my factory system is enough for me now except for the anemic factory sub. A 300 watt 8" sounds really good with the factory set up. Plus I haven't lost any space since I was able to do it in the factory location. Great video 👍.
honestly just want a sub for the kick drums in Hot For Teacher edit: also I've no idea what size to get, I have a 2001 Firebird with T-tops, so I need the bottom of the trunk free and I don't have the monsoon audio package
You should do a review on how to spot bad subwoofer product reviews, like- "This sub sucks. Only lasted a week and blew. Only had my gains set at a touch past 3/4. 🤔
Richard R if you crank up too much on your headunit, then your headunit is gonna send out distorted signal, so that might be how u blew it. And if u play straight sinustones for a long time, then the coil is gonna heat up alot aswell, so many «rebassed» songs are often damaging subs because theres not enough dynamics for the sub to cool down.
@@itsdenisioo9081 thanks, but I referring to how to spot a bad sub review and giving an example of one in the quotes. I've never actually blown any of mine (yet).
It really depends on if the subs are designed for it or not. I’ve got two MTX 12” subs. Now, I’m young and I wanted to get an affordable pair, so I just went ahead and purchased the entire bass package from MTX, subs wired up in the enclosure already, all I had to do was power the amp and run it to the subs. (Btw, for $250, hot damn, they sound great, a pretty good deal) Anyway, I mostly listen to rap, and literally every one of my friends has said, “you need to port that box,” however, MTX designed those subs to work in a completely closed off enclosure. Like I said, whether or not it needs to be ported depends on how the subs are designed.
@@ethanobenauer7083 They make a ported mtx Terminator now if you wanna get a budget ported box. Though I have the ported while my friend doesn't and they sound basically identical mine flexes a little more but that's about it
The most common myth I hear... " "X" brand is better if you want more bass". Top of the list goes to JL's, but there's a lot of brand bias with every brand out there. I certainly have my favorites!
So refreshing to see somebody posting car audio advice on youtube who ACTUALLY knows what they are talking about. Kudos! So many people feed BS in to the hobby and claim it is truth. Finding people who actually speak the truth is really, really rare. in this hobby. And on that note, why the hell are there 108 dislikes on this? There is absolutely nothing to not like here.
Pete, I couldn't have said it better myself. So many people either jumping to their own conclusions or passing on whatever misinformation they recieve. I feel bad for some of the people in these forums. They are getting either made fun of by people who don't use the same brand or getting terrible responses from people that just want to up their stats for answering questions with just a couple words uping the amount of questions back and forth and not even able to help.
So wrong that 300 watt subs wont rattle your car apart. Had 2 JL 10w4d4's running off of a MTX Blue Thunder Pro that was 2x 150 at 2 ohms. Broke more than a few bits on my new Civic hatch over maybe 5 years and I'm not a basehead.
Thanks for the clarification on underpowering a Sub. I literally just had a local car audio shop deter me from purchasing a higher rated sub for a slight upgrade
How would i build a custom box in a 2003 ford f250 single cab behind the seat pick up truck. I have shallow skar vd 12in subs, mounting depth of 4.92 in, they need 1.00ft³ per sub sealed, or 1.75ft³ ported, displacement .10ft³. Rite now i have 2 atrend bbox truck boxes at .80 ft³ per box minus the .10ft³ for displacement of each sub so .70ft³ per box per sub rite now on a alpine mrp 4501.d, and it sounds better than i ever thought. Now i bought a skar skv2 1500.1D amplifier and i think im going to need new boxes or a new single box with the added power. What are you thoughts and recommendations. Sealed, ported. I like crisp clean sq notes where you can hear every note in the song no matter the frequency. The subs handle 500wrms and 800wmax each. How would i go about building a box that will still leave me plenty of leg room and comfort for snowplowing long hours in a small single cab f250. Any thoughts would be awesome, or a place who can build one at a affordable price, or a good prefabed box that will be 1.10ft³ per sub, hit every note with authority, leave my truck totally work friendly, and be able to handle all the power. Thanks much
I really like this conversation here. I have a standard full size 2011 Ram that has a small area to have subs. I have 2 Kicker Comp RT shallow mount in a custom box. Sounds excellent for a small subwoofer enclosure and totally works better than just a subwoofer under the seat deal.
Great video very informative! Years ago I used to have a band pass box of two 10”s. I like to think out of the box and I have a question that no one seems to be able to answer me. My question is, can you put a sealed subwoofer box and have a separate box that has a band pass box? My thinking is have the nice clean sound of a sealed subwoofer yet also have it mixed with the raw behind the cone bass of a band pass box. What are your thoughts on that? Thanks
I left an 18 inch sub in the garage through a cold winter (several days below 20 degrees), and the neoprene ring stress cracked from just sitting there. I'd venture that movement while the ring is cold enough would tear it.
Captain Drizzle a subwoofer is just the sum of its materials. If something gets hot after it’s freezing cold, and then moved around violently, it sounds like it’s possible. That being said, car subs are made to withstand more than home subs. I’m sure mine get to over 100 degrees in my car on a hot day and they’re fine.
if the air inside an air tight sub enclosure expands because of the heat from de voice coils, hence increasing pressure, i can see it pushing the cone out long enough to fall apart during maximum excursion. idk man, i'm hella high.
The air space comment was so spot on. It's so annoying the myth that larger subs hit lower, it's stupid. Enclosure design is what yields lower response frequencies. So people wonder why stuffing 6 12s into their trunk doesn't sound as good as the 2 12s I have. In my trunk there's probably enough room for a box for 2 15s but it's cutting it close, yet everyone is DEAD SET on getting 2 15s in these cars, they just won't listen.
Unless you are going sealed (and to some extent, even then), it's all about the enclosure. A cheap sub in a well designed enclosure will sound better than an expensive sub in a shitty enclosure every time.
with good 8's you can get very good sounding bass, they just won't rattle stuff like a 12" will. Hell, Bose home speakers makes good sounding base with 6.5" speakers, they just don't rattle anything. A car is the easiest place to make great sound. It is an enclosed space. SPL is sound pressure level, ie the more space the more level is needed to appear impressive. Back in the late 80's when I competed, I built a few really great sounding systems with nothing larger than 8" subs. I ran an Orion 225HCCA driving 2 pairs of MBQuart 6.5" and tweeter separates and the Autotek 7050BTS driving a pair of Lanzar Pro sealed 10" subs in the 100w and under level. All in a mini truck. Won many titles with that setup.
Yes and no. But you need cone area to move air. That's just simple physics. Mass weight and suspension has a lot to say as well. Trust me, a 24 inch PD driver will do things just about any other pro 18 or 21 can only dream of. But iwll it be as fast? No, and not as articulate. But it will work great as an actual subwoofer. from about 60-70 hz and down.
Well, in a very simple sense, more come area equals more base. (I’m aware that that’s not the exact reason why, however, it is generally true) The larger the sub, the more cone area. However, it also just depends on quality. I have a relatively expensive set of 2 MTX 12” subs in my car, they sound good, hit hard and fast, and are amazing value for what they cost. However, my dad has 2 10” subs in his car that are wayyyyyy louder and produce ridiculous amounts more bass, can’t remember the brand but they’re some sort of badass made for competition subs. However, in the majority of cases, bigger subs do actually mean more bass.
I've always used sealed enclosures but recently was given a 400w RMS 10" sub in a prefab sealed box. Running it off 350w you could barely feel/hear it from the drivers seat. Used an enclosure design website to design a slot ported box tuned to 36Hz. It hits harder, lower and shakes the car. I regret not switching years ago.
Back in the day (1991), my first stab at a ported enclosure was to modify a dual chamber sealed enclosure (heavily sanded Rustoleum gloss black!) into a ported one. It had my best friend's two vintage all black, steel framed, white dustcap logo, foam surround, Rockford Fosgate Punch 10's inside. About 1.1c.f. per side after the driver. I manually calculated a port size to tune it to 39Hertz and used an inexpensive program to verify. It was I think a 3 inch Schedule 40 white PVC tube cut to 9 or 10 inches. I used a round file and 80 grit sandpaper to carefully roundover and flare both ends. It was held in place with PL2000 construction adhesive/sealant. HOLY SHIT! What a HUGE difference! Louder with more punch and above 40 Hertz definitely less excursion and more power handling. MC Hammer and Snow were killing it (we were 8th graders in 1991). Any lower Q driver with an EBP in the ported range we were trying to port. Porting the 15's in the already undersized sealed enclosures was a huge mistake, and I told my friend this way ahead of time. We had to use dual 2 inch PVC ports and it was only 36Hertz. So much shuffing and poor control. Blah. Then we both heard and felt a brand new Kicker Solobaric 12 in a custom 4th order bandpass! Holy shit again! Now we were 4th bandpassing almost everything. This or sealed WITH proper volume and tuning. Two RF Series 1 gray coned, inverted cap ten's were destroying his bedroom and finally a 1989 Nissan 240SX hatch.
I've always been a "ported guy" but took verbal abuse from friends who swore by sealed for years. After decades of honing my box building skills and competing in sound quality with IASCA, people are surprised to see my subs are ported. My ears and my room full of SQ trophies tells me people are just regurgitating what they've heard. Now I'm not saying there isn't an advantage to sealed not having to deal with group delay (time it takes the rear wave to make its way through the port), but a DSP can compensate for that. Plus, the car is such a terrible listening environment that any minuscule advantage in SQ a sealed sub is supposed to have will never be heard. The benefits of deeper, louder bass with more output volume on the same amplifier are just too much to overlook with ported designs, IMO.
Myth number three. Sort of yes. Here's the thing. It is often the case that a larger driver tends to be slower and a bit more lazy. Yes, you should of course consider the space you have, and the power you have. But still, two equally powerful and same quality subs, one a 12 and one an 18, will not sound the same. In many cases, the 12 is a great size because it does work better at higher frequencies, but it will still play low, but also fast. It is what it is, but the size has zero to do with music, and all to do with what you want to do with it.
should add that a larger sub *All things being equal* would sound louder at less power due to the larger surface area of the sub. You push more air....
6. 8" sub for the "high bass" 12" sub for that "low bass" 7. "If you're using 2 subs in the same box you should always invert the polarity." 8. "If you have a sealed box you are missing out on the low end" 9. "After going ported, my 8" sub now sounds like 2 12"s" - (you never heard how 2 proper 12s sound) 10. "if your trunk ain't rattling, it's not happening"; "more rattle = louder sub" - same people that think sound treatment is a waste of money and will make their system quieter.
From my experience with my 12" Diamond Audio, i agree with that. 12" if you have the space, 10" if you´re limited on space. I think anything above 15" is nonsense.
I ended up with a pair of Infinity Kappa 1000W 450 watt RMS 10" subs paired to a 1000 watt RMS Kenwood KAC-9106d amp. Metal and well mixed classic rock never sounded so good. Lamb of God - Blacken the Cursed Sun & Ted Nugent - Wang Dang Sweet Poontang for reference.
with the same amp , yes. It adds 6db if driven by a second amp of equal power to the first. Every doubling of power adds 3 db and every adding of a same sized sub adds 3 db, so 6db total. I don't think he explained why it went to 6. So upping your amp output from 100w to 200w will add 3 db of SPL. Going from 200w to 400w will add 3 more. going from 400 to 800 will add 3 more. So going from 100w to 800w will add 9db if using the same sub. Easiest way to add DB, buy a really efficient sub to begin with. Don't buy the cheap 85db efficient sub, buy the much better ( and costs more ) 88db sub for $50 more and you gain 3 db just in sub performance. Back when I competed in the late 80's, pro subs were 94-98db efficient. We could get 120db from 200w amps. ( Amps were much more expensive and all were class a/b amps ) Now it takes 300w to 800w to get the same thing. Class D amps are cheaper so Subs have gotten less efficient.
When the subwoofers are stacked (coupled) or very close to each other it can add up to 6 DB this trick is used a lot in PA systems. Since low frequencies are omni directional any way you don’t necessarily need a stereo subwoofer setup. Because its going to be quite hard to hear where the sound is coming from anyway. Also in most mixes the kick drum and the bass guitar are panned dead center so there is no need for stereo anyhow. So thats why they are stacked, rather have the extra DB’s then have a stereo system that will likely not be used anyway.
Q.) If you have are putting 2 subwoofers into 1 sealed box do you need to separate the 2 subwoofers or double the air volume required for each subwoofer?
@@RodofAllTrades Maybe you should think twice and research something until you comment about it. If you have a sealed box, with 2 divided chambers INSIDE then tell me how the sub would see twice the air volume. I really hope that you understand that the space between those two subs are sealed against each other.
You should make an updated video to your original video about using Winisd and taking in consideration different factors like cabin gain. By the way great video and keep up the good work.
you can't really calculate cabin gain with a program though as every cabin and sub and box will react differently, resulting in you just having to test out different ports and box sizes to see what works best. although, for most people who aren't chasing .5 db's winisd works great
Morgan Bill's you can test with a sealed box and find the db or freq of your cabin. Then you tune wither to that or an octave lower so it's in the sweet spot of the impedance curve. You need win isd and a spl meter and rta. Yes every vehicle is different but there are sites that people have posted their vehicle and their sweeps so when designing if you dont have those tools you can get in the ballpark.
Simplified explanation: it has 2 sets of connections, allowing it to be wired in multiple ohm configurations. It has two separate sets of windings, each is powered separately. To get more in depth, try googling SVC vs DVC.
My favourite myths are still the "gain is just a second volume knob", "bass boost..."(enough said) and "50W RMS, 561432598737948W Peak Power"... Also, I've been trying to tell my friends some these when they tell me I'm just f*cking with them with the little 20L box ... yeah, you have a badly tuned cheap amp with a bigg ass plate in a big ass box taking up all the space in your trunk with no air to move, while I had everything measured in my 2 seater lunchbox, built the sub enclosure according to the manufacturer recommendations, then measured and tuned everything.. And then they look at me like I'm crazy.
He's not lying about the box dimensions.. A year ago my cousin got two 10" subs for his truck and they suffocated underneath the seats in an air tight box.. It sounded absolute garbage until he got a Jeep with a new box
Such a great video! Loved point number 2 with how to sound twice as loud! Fascinating stuff nice to finally see a clean explanation that completely busts that myth!
is it me or are brands and exclosure's also key, i have an mtx woofer that gives a loud punch/kick, and a kicker subwoover that kicks less but gives an extreme low sound.. db wise probable the same but for dance music mtx, and movies or more extreme songs like rap with extreme low the kicker woofer.
back in the 90's i ran all my amps at MAX gain . and yes i blew several subs, till i went with SUPER PRO they took all power at all levels and never blew.
And if material of diffusor is same then its true. If you take bigger sub you need much lighter diffusor material and mostly that means less strenght or much more price. Bigger magnet needs too and much more powerfull amp and much more damping factor...or just get yourself 10" if you not listen deep bass music.
Gabriel Borrego @ I love my three 10TW3’s seriously if their installed correctly their monstrous and yet so compact. Powering my three off just their HD750/1
I went from a single TW3 in a 0.5cf sealed box driven by a JL XD 600 amp to a TW5 in a 1.2cf sealed box driven by a Audio control 800.1 and they are VERY different. I love how deep the TW5 sounds by I do miss the tight punchy bass of the TW3.
Excellent video. But I guarantee there's some dummy who can dispute all your points. And you're the pro. Blv me I know. Ppl listen to their idiot friends. Not us. 😐
Just to clarify for the cheeeldren He means the total interior air volume of the speaker cabinet/box, that can physically fit inside your vehicle. Not the total air volume of your vehicle.
I bought 92 civic I'm in process of rebuilding. I need some help in audio. I have 1 subwoofer 1 under seat subwoofer, 4 Twitter 2 for front 2 for back, 4 channel Amplifier, 4 speaker and joying 9.2 inc single din head unit. Could you design the wire diagram?
damn you I just want bass not a math and science lesson! theres a lot more to the box design when dealing with a car too. for example facing it to the rear or front can change the sound. I personally love my Bazooka tube in my truck. firing right up to the wall of the truck it sounds fantastic. if you move it away from the wall the bass drops off.
Thank you. Your channel is one of the most informative across all of my areas of interest. Kudos, and much respect for sharing the wealth of knowledge, and the thorough explanations
I see you are a new subscriber, thanks for joining! Tons of content coming, I just uploaded a new subwoofer box video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eTQeUfv1dDU.html
Mark you always right masters always telling your students it's taken life time practice to get perfect but you can't never reached Nirvana's...say masters Yoda... Ohh wait I'm having old timers memory again.. can't remember sheep from sheepdog 🙉🙊🙈🐒💰🔥🤣😭🤠🤠🤠🤠
What is the mith I've ever seen? Busting maths! There are in the market "branded" audio amplifiers, with insane huge power written on it. Because I worked as stage staff, I just making LMAO when I see an 12 volts car amplifier with 2000 watts. Guys, the car's starter probably less powerful than number. And how long you can use it? Yes, for seconds! Even more fun, when the amp main fuses can blow out at the half power described on the box. The phisics certainly put the math power equals current times tension. Where the power in watts, the current in amperes, and the tension in volts. The volts with running engine is 14,4 volts. If you found in the unit 4 pieces of 20 anp fuses, is means 80 anpers, where the fuses just blows off. Is near the haf of twothousand. You also speaks about ten thousand watts. Guy, that power is 10 kW at all, which when really I built in a car, needed 20 kW+ engine power just for generating electricity. With an higher than standard alternator, on 12 volt system, the 160 amp alternator is an extreme big, but still not fit that power. Just for reference, in an music festival, you must heard near close to 10 kWs of sound, but often works on 60 percent of native output, to keep a "spare" amount of extra power. And that sound can be heard from miles away, unlike your car. And... The size of an REAL 200 watts woofer is insane, on a festival, using ten pieces of them to achieve 2 thiusand, AND that sound you actually FEEL in your stomach, literally. Realize a car system commonly 5 hundred watts, and the real big one is one thousand. The bigger numbers just a scam, like the 90's PC speakers with 500 watts written on it- and fitted with a korean 2x half watts amplifier in one chip. Cz.A, from Hungary.
Hello, i'm driving a e39 sedan and tried quite a lot to have a good quality sound but still want go more and don't have any ideas. I want something like bmw f10 sound with an logic 7 without a sub with a big box. Ofc it can be but i want just deep bass from it with no chatter and courting sound. I tried 10" with a box and 2pairs of 8" on port less and ported box with good liters and all but still nothing i would admire... The main thing is the sub with a box have specific sound i don't like that cranking and boxing it feels like you hear nothing apart that sub goes wild... I have: fiio btr 30 pro (from phone bt straight to amp) Helix m four Focals 165 iss + two tweeters (installed an adapter from standard 5" to 6,5") 2x ellipses 7x9 in the back cut the holes true the trunk on sedan back window (on low pass filter) Any advice? Thanks!
I know this was an attempt at a “gotcha” moment but yes, even for this application because chances are that the robin is outside with wind blowing and the sounds of wind are at a much lower frequency than the chirps of the bird.
Be careful. 300 w can rattle it aprt. Many other factors though. Two 12 mtx in a matched set (box amp etc) with my wiring and tuning rattled my classic BMW in a matter of a few months. "How much you pushing?" Oh 300..... Yeah fin right was usually the response. Maybe they were that good, maybe lack of air space or maybe even I'm decent at backyard installs and setting a good tune idk those mtxs where balin budget but still high quality
My father earlier in the year bought a couple of vehicles to resell, and got one that had a dual subwoofer box and amp, and he said i could keep it, it worked but i did find that the box isn't in the best of conditions and doesn't properly seal as well as it did before, i want to stick with sealed, but i see a bunch of boxes on amazon that I've looked at, the main question is should i pay much attention to the box brand or just the volume of the box(along with the dimensions to make sure it fits), and make sure it would work with the subs and still sound good. As i found several different boxes, i found some that was $70 and others that was $200+, its for dual 12's Before someone says to reseal the box i currently have, I have already tried that, and lasted around 2-3 weeks before happening again. The main problem is the edges of the box is deteriorating more and more the longer i keep it.
Don't forget about vehicle specific sound resonance and acoustics. Each and every vehicle has its own cabin frequency. That's why my vehicle produces more decibels at 42hz rather than any other frequencies.
The biggest one I can think of is that YOU NEED a big system to produce big sound. In high school (2001-2005) everyone had a system. Teachers, nerds, cheerleaders, everyone. I had a 2-door 93 Skylark with a pair of 275w 3-way Pioneer 6x9’s running around 200w to each speaker. No dedicated subwoofer. It was showing up most others others 1000w 1/2x12 setups. I’d pop the trunk and people would be surprised to see it empty.
QUESTION WILL THIS HAVE DISIERD EFFECT I drive a 4 dooor 2001 pontiac sufire lil 4 banger Current ive got termenator 800watt sealed enclosure sub kit along with an oldschool sony explode running on a "2000watt" boss walmart amp so its getting around 500wats give or take last time I checked I wasr registering 87db with this set up sice i have both sealed and ported I jave a very wide freqency respose from what I can tell not as great on the low end but my stearing wheel shivers so eh Ultimate plan is to upgrade to the 2000watt terminator kit get a sundow x12 in custom tube port box tumed to 32 hz and I may possibly find some room to throw in a 1k 15in sub somewere So my thought and question by doing this im hoping to literly just have an upgaded version of what I alredy have it hoping ill be abel to pick up more of the lower freqencys around 30hz just over all have a massive increas in the overall vibration I can feel through the car and the spl in the cars air space WILL THIS HAVE DISIERD EFFECT
I have a question that I need to be addressed quickly... I have an MTX AMPLIFIER 421D and I've always had it in a pioneer champion series rated 400rms. Will this amp be able to function as well enough if I change my sub for a 15 inch kicker cvr rated 500 watts rms? Please I need this to be responded quickly by anyone who has knowledge of the topic because I'm thinking of changing my system in 3 weeks... 👍🏼
I've done a build similar to this many years ago with an old Toyota Corolla and a 12" Pioneer IMPP sub that we inverted and had the port extending out and into the cabin but all hidden away. It sounded amazing.
Kindly, advise on pioneers subwoofers; ts-d12d4 vs ts-w3003d4 which is better in low deeeps and durability considering electronic specs are identical; only material guild seem abit different. Using Pioneer GM D9701 Class D Mono Amplifier. Thanks.
PLEASE HELP Man I got basically the same but I got 2 12s of the Alpine model# R-W12D2 and each speaker is a 2 ohm and there both 750rms each and it just blew a brand new Rockville 1000rms 2000 peak amp and I really don't no shit about amp and sub matchups would you know a amp under $200 that is a fit for 2 of these speakers.
Great video, and I agree with it 95%.... But I have had two 15"s in my F150, in a perfectly tuned box, and they sounded great... and LOUD ! I then went to two 10"s also in a perfectly tuned box, and they also sound great and LOUD.... but not quite as loud, and they do sound noticeably better with rock or alternative. They just don't move as much air for techno bass music, or rap. Point being, the type of music you listen to most, can / should also have a bearing on what subs you should use.
I disagree with you buddy. If all else is equal, e.g. box dimensions meant for subs and the correct amp power etc. then the last part of the puzzle is probably where you're finding your difference coming in - the tuning of the system. The dynamic range etc. of subs of varying sizes also accounts for something tangible. Mark's comment is therefore 100% accurate - it's not strictly speaking the size of the sub (for the music you listen to) that counts, it's about more than that.
Maybe I'm wrong but if adding another subwoofer with doubling the power raises 6db..... wouldn't adding 1 more set (Amp n sub) raise it another 6db? So u have 1 sub n 1 Amp n it has 100db.... wouldn't adding 2 subs with same power to each tgen add 12db? So adding 3 sets would add 18db?