Your explanation on gearing using the bicycle method, that Is as a kid how I learned how transmissions work, how powerbands work and a little more. Love how your teaching style is man keep the knowledge flowing lol
Good video Brian. There is a way to get the oil temps on the A90 display cluster. I do it all the time when verifying new mods. Hold “00” button (bottom left of cluster display) 10-15sec. Scroll down to unlock. Your car pwd is the addiction of the last 6 digits to your VIN. Click away till your pwd number. Hold till it says unlock. Then scroll to Temperature and hold. When you turn off your car you have to do the whole process over.
@@BL-js6sc I appreciate that! Super cool tip tho! Definitely worth the trouble to have that info up during track days and performance tests. I think one of the settings in that menu is how you get the car ready for a dyno run! So cool to see them program that into the car!
You can do some brake boosting….if your transmission is built for it” I’m mainly talking about automatic transmissions” a higher stall speed torc converter allows you some Leeway, a hardened torc converter shaft helps too. If you don’t wish to brake boost….then simply install a 50shot of nitro oxide….armed for full throttle launches….it gives you some power, before the turbo kicks in. I seen a fiero with a 3800 Supercharged engine…..out launch several fast cars with just a 50shot of Nitro oxide…..Imagine if it had a turbo….instead of a super charger.
Talking about a built up racer is much different than a typical car tho. You can brake boost with no issues like I said in the video. Just if you do it accessibly on a normal car, could end bad
ive not heard of turbo turds in a long while lol, didnt know they were still a thing with decent oils available today,, regards turbo timers - after a spirited drive i just coast home easy for the last few miles trying to keep revs under 1500 / minimum or no turbo spool
If you're on the track and right after an aggressive session, you wouldnt want to just turn off the engine. In road driving, I'll do a spirited drive through the mountains, and most like I just continue driving home and of course within 10 mins or so of normal driving everything is at a normal level. But modern cars are getting better and better at oil cooling, so this is becoming less of an issue. My Supra can't overheat if I try to make it!
Great clip. Easy to understand since you demonstrated your points practically. Just want to ask whether its possible to lug a turbo engine with an auto transmission since it downshifts when you floor the gas pedal.
So im kinda guilty of lugging the engine. But i dont believe i am. My car makes peak torque at 3k rpm and its already making 300lb ft at 2200rpms. I floor it all the time in 2nd at 2500rpm as if i do that at 3k in 1-2 or three itll spin out. But at 2k tc will kick in slightly and very gradually lay down power. But it doesnt sound as though its struggling at all. So from my understanding lugging the engine has nothing to do with rpm but instead to do with a lack of engine power in relation to its gearing. A diesel often redlines at 3-4k rpm so if you floor a diesel at 2k rpms making 400ft lbs is it lugging it???
Thats not really lugging the engine. If your in 6th gear at 2k rpm, the gear ratio is the reason the engine will be having a very hard time. Lugging the engine happens when you're at a gear ratio disadvantage. Not just a low rpm
When I worked at the dealer, we got in a TT-RS and after driving it I felt that it didn't have as much power as I thought it would have. So I plugged in my OBD2 Bluetooth adapter and connected it to my Torque app on my phone. Sure enough it was 5psi lower then what it should. We traced it to a crack in the intercooler. So that helped us buy the car for the right price to replace the IC.
I would just add that brake boosting is like launch control If you think about it most cars limit your launch control to a few times before needing to drive around for a while Funny thing is my M2c won’t do burbles til the engine oil is up to temp 😂 Does the Supra do the same? Also in my M2c I can hear the coolant pumps running after I shut the engine off for ~30s
Yeah in my GTR, I can only do 5 back to back, then I need to drive 1 mile to let it reset. THe Supra needed to go through its 'cold start' before the burbles would happen too. And the radiator fans would stay on after the car was off for a bit if it was hot
I have a GLE 350 (255 hp) so will brake boosting it mess with the transmission? Because the guy you said in the video had a 700hp car so I was just curious.
Brake boosting won't really be a necessity for your GLE to get into the powerband quickly. The reason higher than normal horsepower cars do it, like in modified Supra's, Evo's and etc., is like the video said it's too reduce turbo lag on the larger turbos. Stock cars rarely have a need to brake boost if you're in the correct gear because the turbos are usually small or designed to give a nice smooth and linear acceleration. Big turbo, big lag.
With a small turbo, unless the car you're racing is the exact same horsepower as yours, brake boosting isnt worth it. Big turbo is the only time its really worth it. It'll give you an edge regardless, but the cons outweigh the pros imo with brake boosting on a small turbo.
How about octane booster? My car not in the league of these power wise (or price lol - I have a Cupra car with the same engine as the Golf R at 300hp). The reason I ask is that Australian fuel is terrible quality, even the highest octane is allowed to have up to 50 ppm sulfur, whereas rest of civilised world is 10 ppm. Our lowest octane is allowed 200 ppm! It's outrageous. And the fuel companies just bid for another extension before that changes, so now it's not happening for another 5 years. Sigh. I was just thinking if anti sulfur additives occasionally, as well as octane booster, would be good for it. No tuning as yet but I am planning to go Stage 2 and am trying to sort it out so I don't lose warranty, to no avail so far, but even if it's at the end of warranty I am definitely taking it to 400+HP.
2018 Civic EXT (1.5 liter, turbo, GDI, CVT)…125,300 miles averaging 34.1 mpg. I drive for longevity. -I typically drive between 1.5k-3.5k rpm. -I don’t exceed 2k rpm until the engine reaches optimal temperature. -I rarely take short trips. -I drive 60% highway. -I rarely exceed 4k rpm. -I have never redlined. -I change the oil/filter early…at no more than 4,200 mile intervals (full synthetic 0W-20) -I only use top-tier 93 Octane Shell (for the maximum detergent). I’m hoping to get at least 300k miles on the engine, turbo, and CVT without repair.
Bro you drive a Honda, I have known people who treat them like total shit and they still get well over 150,000 miles. It is an incredible built car it's not you driving like an old lady.
The stock tune is for 93. I wouldn't expect any gains under the stock tune. Stock tune limits power to be exactly what it wants. So it'd probably just compensate for the fuel and still keep stock numbers. Check out my latest vids tuning the supra!
Bros FOURR Speed thank you. I live in California and we have 91 octane for a premium. I do feel it’s lacking a bit on pump 91. Was thinking of mixing some 100 octane with the 91 octane to atleast get over 93. 95.5 to be exact on half and half. Thank you
I had my ford explorer sport tuned on 93 making a decent amount over 400 crank hp and over 450 trq and I brake boost it all time and I've had 2 transmission failures in less than a month of ownership
I deactivated start stop feature in this car. Just puts more stress on the starter and ends up wasting more gas. Dumb feature. But if the engine is hot, it's best to let the car idle and cool down to keep the oil flowing. Start/Stop is a pointless regulatory feature. Does nothing positive for the car. Just makes manufactures appear to make cars that are more fuel efficient. It's BS
Enjoying the Supra content. Guy who works near me has a Turbulence Grey one. That color is surprisingly really good (not the biggest fan of grey/silver cars). Really hoping to see a Nitro Yellow one sometime.
Brake boosting is perfectly fine on these cars, it's very similar to how the factory launch control works. You shouldn't abuse it, but all drag racing Supra's brake boost to launch.
If doing RU-vid is your job, and it funds the car purchases, how are you guys still surviving? I mean you are getting next to no views and you pump out a video every day just to put something out there, of which most are uninteresting content. Just wondering how you guys make it work?
99% of our views don't come from subscribers. Our vids generally take many months to start gaining views. We have several videos in the million view range, and many on the way. Our channel just doesn't gain views like others. We've averaged about 1.5 million views a month all year long. RU-vid is weird
