5 Tips to Shoot NIGHT Photos on FILM 

oh do you mean like set exposure with your digital camera, then copy that over to your film cameras settings?

@@UNDAMedia Yes. Take a picture with your digital camera and when you're happy with the exposure take those settings to your film camera and possibly add more time to account for the reciprocity failure. When you "take a reading" with your digital camera remember to ignore the blown highlights and concentrate more on the midtones.

@@UNDAMedia that doesn’t give an accurate reading to long exposure shots on film due to reciprocity failure which he goes over in the video

A spot meter is more accurate than another camera

@@nickfanzo That's factually incorrect, because most spot meters are next to useless in really dark shooting situations.

🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼

Willem*

Same

Picked mine back up for the first time in a bit

So stoked to hear that! Have fun shooting it :))

andykmpark same here 🤘🏻

Kaimar Tauri Tamm also same haha

😂❤️

That’s the best to hear!! Thank you 🙏🏼❤️

Maybe in the future yes :)

Willem Verbeeck been waiting on this video since you teased it a while ago

I read that the aperture is going to be the most important thing when considering night photography. The extended exposure time doesn't do much if you're aperture isn't wide enough to get that initial light to begin with.

was just wondering the same thing actually

Hahahaha

Number of photos shot ^120

Thank you!!

I think if you keep iso low on digital they should come out smoother. Longer speeds though

You really don’t need a lens with F/2 or less to shoot at night. You can basically have an infinitely long shutter speed when using a tripod and cable release, so aperture becomes kinda irrelevant. \ Actually, most people like to shoot around F/8 even at night, because that’s where most lenses are at their sharpest, and you get some nice flares from light sources. The only time you’d really NEED an ultra fast lens lower than F/2.8 (excluding when you need it because you’re going shallow DoF of course) is if you wanna do handheld stuff in low light. With very fast lenses under F/2.8, you’ll be able to shoot around that half-of-focal-length shutter speed (which is the about minimum before you get motion blur caused by handholding) in much darker conditions. Many medium format lenses, like those for the RB, don’t even go below 3.5 or so. And that’s no problem at all. That third point should really be reciprocity failure. Know what is is, and how to work with it. Else you’ll be underexposing your long exposures.

I've been shooting nights for around 5 years now using a Nikon F, I'm surprised you got results using slide film considering its infamously difficult to get a correct exposure even during the day. That being said I often use it myself although it is very challenging. I also used a Mamiya RZ67 but I wouldn't recommend it. Too heavy and too unreliable for night time work.

@@upcomingcloudrapperluca7645 Like I said above, I always bracketed my exposures for night photography. For slide film, I bracket in half stops and with neg film, I bracket in whole stops. Generally, for daytime photography, I would usually shoot on slide film. The majority of my exposures would turn out fine (using manual exposure) though every now and then, I would stuff it up.

@@upcomingcloudrapperluca7645 I should also mention that slide film was the medium of choice for professional photographers who shot for books, magazines and other print publications. So there would be millions of slides of night time city scenes that were exposed over many decades all over the world. Definitely no magic involved in getting correct exposures at night on transparency film. Just bracket widely and you'll be fine. Speaking of unreliable medium format cameras, I used to shoot with a Koni Omega Rapid. I got some nice images from that camera (all shot on slide film) but I also had a number of frustrating experiences with it. I'm hoping that a Mamiya RB67 would be more reliable.

@@anzaeria I currently use a spot meter and have no issues with slide film. I use it for university projects at the moment and I am often told by older tutors the difficulties of shooting slide at night, that's where I'm getting my notion from. Good to speak with someone like yourself though. May I ask were you assigned such photographic projects or was it more of your own ambition to take such images? I was looking at a Koni Omega Rapid the other week, they seem to sell for decent prices considering most medium format cameras have sky rocketed in recent years. By the sounds of things you enjoy film photography and have practiced it for many years, why not just pick up a Hasselblad?

@@upcomingcloudrapperluca7645 That is indeed a strange thing for your older tutors to say that slide film is difficult to expose properly at night. I don't recall ever experiencing that issue myself. A lot of my photography was done as a hobby though occasionally, I make some money out of it. Yea the Koni Omega Rapid would likely be the cheapest medium format camera system with interchangeable lenses. I did have a landscape image I shot with the Koni Omega that won Second Prize at a 2008 art exhibition. And that same image also sold at the very same exhibition for $230. That photo also won a contest organised by a photographic magazine. Not too bad for an old camera that I got cheaply on eBay. Nevertheless, if I was going to shoot medium format again, I would select a camera system that is more reliable and hassle-free. The Hasselblads are very nice indeed but too pricey for me. Plus they shoot 6 x 6. Although a square composition can look really nice with certain images, most of the time I prefer a horizontal image so I would be cropping quite a bit of the image area. Whereas a 6 x 7cm frame would be considerably larger than an equivalent crop from 6 x 6cm.

Stops is the result of going up and and down the exposure triangle, describing how much light is captured. This can be done by changing aperture, shutter speed or ISO

Look up "hyperfocal distance" if you want to get really technical about this; otherwise, focus about 1/3 of the way into the scene if you want the entire scene in focus.

bananafreakingidiot if he’s ruling out b&w as a whole for its alleged diminished latitude, I don’t think he’ll enjoy the idea of slide film