Early and proper maintenance on these trucks is absolutely key. Oil change every 5k (use 0w-20…there’s a good reason they use very thin oil), transmission pan drop/filter change every 50k, diffs at 100k, test coolant at 100k. Preventative measures like the Range AFM disabler, flipping the thermostat and a catch can are also recommended. There’s a ton of naysayers out there who disagree about these preventatives, but they work as advertised and they do help a significant amount.
My 2017 has 100K miles on it. I've done all of these since I bought the truck new. 100% serviced at GM. One additional item is to upgrade the transmission fluid (service bulletin from GM) I've also added a Corsa Exhaust system for a little better sound. No troubles so far...knock on wood.
@@pchivers8888 the tsb only applies to the 8 speed. They recently came out with a tsb that involves installing an upgraded thermostat in the 6 speed that opens at a much lower temperature (the factory one allows temps to get to 196ish, tsb thermostat gets it to 158ish).
Again very accurate info. My mechanic buddy who has done about 20 sets of lifters commented that most of them he suspects were due to taking oil changes out too long. Those lifters are dependent upon fresh oil to keep from sticking. I have always changed mine when oil life monitor gets to 25% which is usually between 5-6k miles. 111k miles with no lifter issues
Bro you're on point with all of these suggestions. I've had almost all of these happened already. I will be taking some other suggestions from you as well.
I had a 2015 GMC Sierra 5.3 and towed a 7k lb cargo trailer almost every day of the year for my business in stop and go traffic here in PA near Philly. Changed oil every 5k miles and changed trans fluid/filter every 20k miles. Never changed the trans thermostat and the hottest the trans ever go was 212 degrees in the hottest days of summer. Truck was stock and on stock tires. Only thing that ever broke on the truck was the AC at 45k which was covered under warranty. This truck is hands down the best 1500 that was ever created!!!! And I just bought another 2015 last week as proof.
@@yoshipapi7880 i’ll sell you my v6 2015 crew cab silverado. 135k miles, no issues other than the transmission is going bad. I have a used transmission with 125k miles on it riding in the bed for when it finally goes. 18k
Absolutely the worst transmissions and engines GM has ever designed and plagued with issues and GM knows it and has known about it and refuses to admit it and address the issue!!!!!
@@adamchristopher2086 My personal experience says the exact opposite. But then again I know how to properly drive and take care of a vehicle. And I only buy new. No bad trucks, just plenty of idiots out there who don't know how to take care of anything.
I would add spray on anti-rust undercoating before you have an issue. Doing that once a year in corrosive climates will keep it rust free. Great video!
I’m in wi did the pill flip 4 years ago and I’ve had no issues. Somewhere around 70k on the flip 16 Gmc 1500 5.3 6speed I opted for Diablo i3 over the range and I engine flush every other oil change with gunk / motor medic engine flush. Currently 130k still running great
The drivers side blend gate actuator will go out at some point. You will know when the pass side is cold and the drivers side isn't. Its located on the pass side you'll have to remove both glove boxs and unplug a few things to get to it, it is tight but you dont have to remove the whole dash. And trans lines are prone to leaking too.
i have a 01 yukon and a 2018 sierra both with the 5.3…. these are the best vehicles i’ve ever had and i can fix everything myself as long as i’m not going into the motor and the parts are affordable
I bought my '17 new. Sitting at 162K now. You are pretty much spot on with the volatile areas of these trucks. And i agree that people are a bit outlandish sometimes in their criticism. Great gas mileage, Great-Power. And they drive almost like a sports car compared to the old front axle 4x4. But I will tell you. One thing I have never had to remember to change. Is the coolant. I just put my seventh thermostat in this 5.3 The first one went bad at 62000 miles. And now I literally keep an extra in the glove box with an 10mm T handle and 90 degree needle nose pliers. I have asked around and done some searching on the internet, but anyways great video man!
I solved an electrical gremlin by upgrading my frame ground. I added a 4 gage wire to the negative terminal and bam all voltage drops and other issues were instantly resolved. The dealer couldn’t figure it out. Bought the 2015 Suburban with 97k and currently have 127k. I was running range technology on my truck and lifter 7 still collapsed. Lucky it happened under my purchased warranty. $4500 job😮. Rear locker was sticking and required a fluid change that solved the issue. Any voltage drops or door lock up and down or power glitches all stem from a poor frame ground wire. The gage of the wire in my book is to small for everything that grounds to the frame throughout the entire vehicle. Good luck and always “bow tie till you die”!
I just replaced a lot of parts on my 2014, but since then it's been problem-free so far and drives and runs smoothly. It was about around the time some of the factory parts needed replacing anyway.
I have 2014 v6 Silverado. After 10yrs of driving it it just turned the 140k mark and had to have the rear main seal replaced this past week. AC is still working well. The only update I made to mine was a K&N air filter--i've been using on in my IROC for 35years and figured the truck would do well with it.
The issue with the 6 speed transmissions is the torque converter, as you said the thermal bypass valves wouldn’t open till around 190° F that cooks the converter. Converter comes apart, drops metal into the pan and sucks into the fluid filter, fluid pump sucks air and that finishes the pump and all the clutches.
Yeap, happened to mine at 188,662 miles and mechanic did drop the pan, change the filter and put back what he caught in the pan and added back what he lost with the new atf fluid. It worked well for a while but as he said, it might start up again, and it sure did. At 194,876, it came back and I pulled the trigger for a new transmission.
Dude I think mine is fucking stuck closed on my 2019 Ld I was off road yesterday not even in 4x4 bro we were walking up the hill maybe like 15-30mph and my shit hit 227°f before I just stopped and shut it off. I’m gonna rather do the bypass thing or pill flip or something… I’m still paying for my truck if the transmission shits itself I’m gonna be pissed
I went with the upgraded thermal bypass valve, a billet torque converter, and trans cooler that easily hooks up to the radiator and transmission. All to ensure longevity and peace of mind.
Thanks for the tips. I just yesterday bought a 2016 Z71 with only 43K miles on it. I'll be looking into that trans thermostat for sure. Didn't know they went that route with any of them. 😎👍
@@Jordan-fn9fz I paid a shade over $33K for it. I was looking at some GMC's but they had over 70K miles on them and they wanted closer to $40K for them. This one was a much better deal I think. Not as fancy interior but I'm okay with that. No issues at all with it. I do have a small oil leak but I think the new trans thermostat is leaking from the o-rings. I haven't had time to look yet. I put new ones in so not sure why they'd be leaking. That's a self inflicted issue but the truck itself has been great. I love driving it.
@@c5grapeape thanks I test drove out a few days ago and I'm going to take it to a mechanic for inspection tomorrow. The dealer has it listed for $35800 but it's been sitting on their lot since January, so going to see how much they will come down. I noticed what looks like a small slow leak around the rear differential and drive shaft, possibly the pinion seal; maybe it's a similar issue. But otherwise seems in good shape at 49k miles
My 15 recently dropped a lifter even with the afm deleted with a Diablo tuner. Good excuse to get a btr stage 2 cam though 😂 also had my condenser go and that’s how I found you. Used your video to change it.
When you were talking about AFM, just shift the transmission into M for manual and bump it highest gear (6 in my truck) then down to 5. That will keep it from going into 4 cylinder. It doesn't hurt the transmission and the rpms don't skyrocket. There's very little noticeable difference. I do this for in town driving with all the stop and go. You'll notice a complete difference not feeling the chug and weird shifts.
Good video, I own a 2016 model. Just replaced the transmission! Not cheap!!! The ac condenser failed three years ago, exactly where you described.. love my truck, but they aren’t build like a rock anymore
Got my 2014 back in 2017 100% solid pickup, recently installed longtube headers and did a DOD delete…truck runs like a champ and i still get upwards of 24 mpg on the highway and it doesnt use up oil anymore! I also recommend an oil cap with a breather…sometimes pressure can build up in the crankcase and cause a rear main seal to leak!
I have a 14' High Country too. Bought it brand new, closing in on 130,000 miles. I have had to replace the AC condenser, the lifter on the #7 cylinder twice, so did them all the second time. Recently had the transmission rebuilt, the brakes failed (belt and brake booster replaced). The stereo/info screen in the center stack has a mind of its own. I have done preventive maintenance the entire time I've had it.
I have 2015 with the 6.2 and 8 speed transmission 161,400 miles original transmission. Torque converter fluid was changed due to shuttering, also had lifers replaced under warranty. Also have the AFM disabled. No check engine light on
105k miles and no issues on my truck. I did do a thermostat delte on the trans since I live in SOCAL and it has been the best thing of all the mods I have done. This should help wit hthe torque converter. Other than that my truck has been rock solid and I use it for Overlanding only now and still no issues.
I have a 2018 bought in August 2018, in June of 2022 at 35.5k miles I found a coolant leak in my radiator I brought it to my local dealership and the car was diagnosed with leaking radiator, leaking water pump, two leaking heater core hoses and leaking coolant reservoir. Only the water pump was covered under the powertrain warranty. The total for the other 3 was $500 coolant reservoir, $600 heater hoses, $1600 radiator. I bought the reservoir from Auto Zone for $70 and replaced it myself. The dealership also found out that two front motor mounts collapsed and replaced them under powertrain warranty. My total bill came out to be $2300 and the truck spent 5 days at the dealership. I made a complaint to GM and after 2 months of “working” on my case I was reimbursed 50% $1150.
I love driving my truck but have completely lost confidence in it. I don’t want to buy a new car right now because the market is nut! Thanks for the video I’ll be adding a catch can and replacing the thermostat soon.
I hear this all the time I have a 2015 with 5.3 4x4 I did have to replace condenser other than that just brake pads fluid changes sitting at 208k and no other issues runs just as strong as the day I got it. This has been the absolute best most reliable truck I've ever owned not once has it left me stranded have had for going on 6 years now
2018 Sierra 110k as of Oct 2023. Excellent tips my man. Changing the oil and trans fluid on severe interval is the best practice IMO. I also have switched my trans to the mobil ATF LV HP (Blue Label) plus LubeGard platinum. It has significantly improved shifting and temperature. I will be adding the oil catch can you mentioned, as I do run a cold air intake plus ans Edge Evolution programmer and I know that adds to the gunk buildup due to the GDI engine construction. I thought about the fuel management delete, but being able to get 28mpg at 60mph is really hard to bypass whent the best on full V8 is only gonna be 20-21mpg. I can get 35 at 45-50mph. The biggest issue I have come across with research is problems with the lifters. There are some solutions out there, but the best fix is likley more individualized, depending on what you would like to accomplish. I must say I love my truck and I think a lot of theses inherent problems were fixed with the 2018s, and it was recently listed as one of the most reliable models. With the basic upgrades I have made its pushing over 400HP and it was just over 1000$. One other suggestion I would make is replacing the front coilovers to the either Rancho 5000 or the 9000s with a 1-2" lift tondelete that factory rake--cheap from Rock Auto, and also get some for the rear or either some Bilsteins. There is no comparison for handling and towing compared to stock. The biggest negative that I have found is how thin the sheet metal on the body is. I have put a couple dents in it just doing basic work around the house. Don't bump it with a piece of lumber, bc thas gonna leave a mark. Other than that imma ride the wheels off this bad boy and then get some new control arms, spindles, probably beef up the brake calipers and go for another 150k😅😅... Thanks for the advice! Good luck to everyone on their maintenance, and always change your own oil 🛢!
@Kylewraps redoing wheel bearings and rear brakes/rotors tomorrow before a hunting trip on my 2018 at 99k. Otherwise it's a shit hot vehichle I use for work and my every day.
I installed the Sure Cool trans thermostat Never fully closed, and you van check and drain the trans fluid without any warmup. I fully changed it (64,000 miles), it neef d it, already brown. I also plugged in a AFM Disabler ($99 Amazon) OBD2,.. Love it. Next I'll delete the Vacuum pump. Installed a cold air intake tube $99. Loving it, better response and better economy. I will also install an OIL CATCH CAN to elimate carbon on the valves. $25 Ebay. New trans filter using the Ratchet Strap Trick. Turns a 3 hour job down to 20 minutes.
I just "flipped the pill" in the Transmission thermostat and changed out to full synthetic fluid. Have had no problems in the winters here...still warms up to 104F/40C when it is 23F/-5C outside...
Some of these trucks will drop the voltage, mostly when it is warm out. The ecm sends a signal to the alternator. You can by pass it by getting a frek generator ,they are about $10 .cut the brown wire on the alternator and set the hertz to 128 adjust the percentage to what ever it takes to get the voltage you want. It will take care of the problem
You are spot on with this video. My transmission thermostat went out and transmission got up to 260. Luckily I caught it early enough and just bypassed the thermostat. Transmission runs between 120-140 on high end now. Installed the Range delete proactively before the lifters fail.
Thanks for recommending and for the important parts to replace with upgrades for longevity and dependability on chevy Silverado.I have been planning to buy a used 2019 chevy silverado ld double cab 2wd.i really like the way it looks.i was worried about the mechanical issues with the amf. System on the engine,transmission,also the air conditioning-condenser.have been waiting to buy a 2016- 2018 silverado
You are pretty accurate with these. Issues I’ve had: Brake booster issue, transmission went out at 98k miles, a/c condenser, sway bar end links snapped off at 125k, needed a new starter at 123k miles without symptom, XM radio fin leak (also heard of 3rd brake light leak)
@@wstansutton1 just bought a 2018 with 130k miles. Was curious on how much it’s cost you in ownership in total with total repairs. Bought the vehicle bc i lived by chevy but after purchasing I noticed this generation has had quiet a few complaints
An issue I had was the Central Junction Box (the main fuse box under the hood) has the circuit panel corrode and then you have lots of electrical problems. One is the remote start stops working. If not caught, you can then have starting issues and finally no starting. You'll think it is a dead battery, as sometimes jumping the truck with a fresh battery will make it go. Probably the hotter spark jumps the corrosion and you get contact momentarily. I was reading it was around $1000 but mine was just done this month and it cost me $600 for labor and a new box. Still, there was time lost, a tow bill, and the aggravation. Some suggest sealing the box with silicone sealant but I'm going to throw a couple of desiccant packets in it. Also, I have known a couple who used CRC electrical cleaner to keep the corrosion away.
I've had the coolant thermostat fail. Replaced it with an aftermarket thermostat and it failed within a year. Definitely go with an OE replacement thermostat. The tailgate hinge is known for bending just a small amount and will constantly chew up tailgate bushings.
Hey Brandon, I had the tailgate bracket bend on mine and wreck the bushing. After heating up and bending the U bracket back to normal, I ended up getting a new plastic bushing and filled the voids of the bushing with jb clearweld 5 min. epoxy, then pushed it into place on the bracket (this was based on a suggestion I got). The tailgate has been used and abused since I did that and is still holding up well. Hope this helps.
Yep all these problems. The new one that just happened today was the engine fan staying on after I shut off the truck. I guess it's a bad temp sending unit that needs to be replaced. Also, (2014 GMC Sierra 5.3 4x4) the truck has developed a bearing noise from the front diff. I did all the fluid changes and I do good maintenance, I think that will be an expensive repair. Just thought I would throw those two things out there too.
Wish I saw this a couple years ago. Front dif went out on mine, tranny is going out, I already did the DOD delete and rebuilt upper engine due to bent pushrod and broken valve spring due to the DOD 4 cylinder mode crap. I did the catchcan at that time as well so once I replace the front dif and get the low temp tstat for the tranny should be good for a while I hope. Thanks for the vid
Only issue I've had with my 16 is the 8 speed tranny trash and the windshield washer fluid motor went out. Right at 100k right now. Been a very solid truck. I do have the range in since about 25k miles.
Major issue with them was the shark fin on the roof. They leak over time. It’s due to the bolt not being tight enough. It comes loose over time and pops the seal. Should replace it after awhile and tighten the little nut. Mine leaked, so many others did too.
Love my 2014. I’m second owner bought at 124k miles. Had some electrical issues but basically adding another ground wire off the battery solved it. Otherwise needed a new alternator and the trans finally died at 192k miles. I did my research and added a catch can and disabler. I am having the AFM tuned out when my trans gets fixed next week. Ultimately been an amazing truck. Stay up on your maintenance and the problems will be very minimal. Reading some reviews on these I see why they have there reputations, but ultimately if you take care of the truck, the truck will take care of you.
Hey man, i got a 2014 too and i keep seeing all these comments about disabling the AFM system and im just wondering why? It helps with fuel economy, why disable it?
@@Amokof it drops 4 cylinders so those don’t get oil and when you need them they are dry I could be wrong but it’s bad to run them dry, also those cylinders are prone to failure cuz they aren’t used that much and they tend to stick or worse completely destroy the engine due to metal shavings going all through the engine, I could be wrong though don’t quote me on what I said
@@carlosgaray5517It's not quite that way. The cylinders themselves are always getting oil, even when deactivated. The issue is the valve lifters. There's a dedicated oil passage to the afm lifters that allows them to collapse and prevent the valve from opening. Due to the added complexity of the mechanism, it makes them more sensitive to oil issues as well as failure. When they fail they can create shavings and oftentimes, destroy the camshaft or in some cases, the whole engine.
eliminated AFM program, runs better, better shifts and picke dup 1.5MPG Run Amsoil in everything, MSD copper plug wires, run Costco 5X detergent gas. Made shiny/ greased grounds on all ground location. Zero problems, none. @@Amokof
Almost bought a 2004 with 220 miles but i thought it was to much bit i notice had a new alternator new water hose a afrermarket air distributor. Sounded awesome. But i was in love with the red high topper that was in great shape, the front and rear aftermarket iron cross bunpers and the new high tread tires amkng this kasg 3 things probably 10 grant. Theg wanted 17 k. But i walk away
Owner of 2015 Z71 Double cab. Bought in 2017 with 30k on the clock. Frame rot is bad on these years. Definitely undercoat or paint frame. Third brake light leaked water into my headliner. I changed gasket. I heard the shark fin will leak too. Overall been sound mechanically. Have 86k on it now.
Common is torque converter failure. The cooler upgrade you mentioned is definitely needed but if you get a shop with a transmission tuner software they can turn off the converter lock up in 1 thru 4 and add some extra pressure to the clutches to reduce slip and greatly extend the life of the torque converter. They can also turn off the AFM or DOD and the automatic grade braking which I hate.
2015 chevy ltz with the 6.2 an just hit 132k only issue I've had was no sound from radio but I found a fast way to reset the head unit took about a hour but other than that still runnin strong
I have a 2017 HC 6.2L. Knock on wood no issues and has treated me well. Myself as well used a catch can since new and changed all the fluids over to Amsoil. Also added a tune to delete AFM from new. Might be over kill but it's peace of mind. Great video as always. Cheers
I have a 2018 Sierra Denali bought it with 75k miles. Added a catch can, tuned out dod, and changed every fluid to Amsoil after transmission shudder "this 100% got rid of any shudder for me", I dropped a dod lifter at 95k miles Gm replaced under warranty I got lucky and had no engine damage. I put 10k miles on the new lifters that were tuned to never turn off and they still collapsed, this time taking the cam, and motor with it! So now I have a new engine, ls7 lifters, dod block off plugs, BTR cam close to factory specs, a Whipple supercharger 2.9l with 9lbs of boost, and tuned with HP tuners Whipple tune. Now the truck has over 150k on the frame and no issues.
@@brandonnguyen1486 So funny story one of my very close friends name is Brandon, and his wife's maiden name is Nguyen lol.....$660.00 for Set of 8 AMS Racing Gen IV/V AFM/DOD Oil Block Off Plugs -Chevrolet Gen V 6.2L Head Bolt Set -Chevrolet 6.2L MLS Head Gaskets -Lifters -Set of 4 GM LS2 Lifter Trays -BTR Gen V Delete Camshaft (Specs: Specs: 200/206 .549"/.522" 112+4.5)
I like your videos and am a subscriber. I have a 2019 Silverado LD and I have installed a catch can and empty it every 3k or so miles. I thought your explanation regarding why to install one was a bit involved and confusing. My explanation: "Oil vapors from the crank case used to be vented to the outside air via vents on the valve cover. This was a source of air pollution. Today, crank case vapors are directed into the combustion chambers to burn the oil vapors. This causes carbon to build up on the valves and inside the combustion chamber and can lead to costly repairs. With a catch can, these vapors are directed instead into a small reservoir or "can" where they can be periodically removed and recycled." Cheers, JS
Aye buddy, thanks for the continuous videos! I have a ‘14 high country with the 6.2L and 119k miles, and it’s about as sound as you can imagine. I’m starting to have the transmission issue as far as slightly rough shifts, but I’m gonna get a oil catch can, do an transmission fluid flush and filter change, and either a tune/range to deleted the AFM/DOD. Your videos help with all my maintenance and saving me money, thank you!
Trans flush and filter change.. it will get better and if it seems like it’s not fixed again do it one more time. After that should be good to go.. I had to do mine twice.. smooth as can be now and I have 132k on mine
If your transmission has never been serviced in 119k miles i would proceed with caution. Swap the fluid first and see how it acts. If it doesn’t get any worse after the fluid swap then go ahead with the filter. In all honesty if your feeling hard shifts you should have a good trustworthy mechanic evaluate the situation before you do anything.
One thing I did was used AMSOIL ATF. Also, at every oil change, I pull a gallon out of my transmission and put fresh fluid back in. It’s critical to keep that fluid fresh as possible.
I have the same truck and I’m at 210,000 miles and runs like a champ done the normal condenser replacement and other stuff suspension etc but besides that it’s awsome
I just got a 2017 so I feel like I'm in the clear for alot of this as long as I do regular maintenance. As soon as I bought the truck I changed my plugs and oil and added a intake. I guess Ill get a catch can next
Thank you for this video. I’m picking an all black 2014 LT Z71 up on Monday. Test driving I absolutely fell in love with the truck. It has 106k and 1 owner. It’s a beautiful truck. It’s the kind of truck I can see myself keeping for 15-20years + and being happy. Doing research online on issues scares ya. But this definitely eases my mind. I’m somebody who takes measures to make my vehicles last. I had a Jeep Patriot for almost 9 years… I was told “don’t buy it, they will break and are terrible!” I babied it and did preventative measures then turn around and sold almost after a decade of nothing but reliability to get the wife a new car.
Get ready for the issues . They are coming. If it hasn’t had a tranny yet, and they didn’t bypass of flip the thermostat the damage is already done. Go ahead and save up about 5k cuz that’s what it gonna cost just to swap one out . I maintenance all my vehicles by the book. The only one that has thousands of dollars in rogue premature failures unrelated to maintenance is my 2014 sierra . I’ve owned every body style since 95 and only this one has been this way.
@@forevershampoo He never left the link for it in the description because he was so high on fenny😂.fuckin dopamine whores should be shot eh boys...oh no oh no oh no oh no oh no🎉
Dustin AWESOME vedio ...I line to to see two vedio the oil catch unit where to get it an inrstall it...also the thermostat for the transmission unit...where to get it an install ... thanks Dustin
I just traded in my 2014 LTZ Z71 with 253,000 miles. I had the AFM programmed out after I bought it around 110,000 miles. Never had any issues with it. Religious synthetic oil changes, etc. Had the trans serviced around 140,000 miles. Trans finally started to go (shuddering and slipping) and traded it in on a '19 Denali. That truck always ran and drove smoothly with few issues. Never put a catch can on, and it always ran smoothly.
@@lalosalamanca6936 I traded it to a local dealer. I'm sure they sent it to auction. I wish I had known about the transmission thermostat before now. I would have taken care of that a long time ago. It always ran 180-190. I was surprised when the trans on my new truck ran a consistent 130.
My father has a 2015 chevrolet silverado midnight edition never had a problem with the transmission But I am now going to own it hoping to fix these things ahead of time
246k (km) on my 15.5 lifters are still going strong no issues with that. Tranny was replaced by the dealer before I bought it truck was bought used with 239k as far as I know the lifters haven’t been replaced. Afm is not disabled Apparently the upper ball joints are common
I agree with most of what you said.I personally change oil every 3000 miles with mobile 1.As for the range afm delete, do yourself a big favor and get one as soon as possible.You said you had not had any problems with afm,but chances are good that you will.I have 150,000 miles with the Range trouble free.My son has over 200,000 miles on his truck with the range,no problems.
Looking at '15 with the 4.3 4wd 112 thou. Miles, But after looking at this Video, I think I'll pass on it Glad I viewed your video, very informative, thanks for posting this,I learned a lot!
The catch can will "catch" blow by oil particulates as they get reintroduced into the engine. However, the intake valves are gummed up due to the combustion process. The intake valve isn't fully seated when the exhaust valve opens so some of the cylinder gases will settle on the intake valves. The best way to slow down the process is to use a detergent or cleaner meant specifically for GDI engines. It sprays into the intake and settles on the valves. It breaks down the carbon build-up which slows down the process of the valves getting dirty.
When you clean the catch oil canister how much oil do you put in. Thank you, I'm glad I found your channel. I have a 2018 Sierra so I need to bullet proof it.
Thanks for the video about this truck. I owned it for three years and only put 15K miles on it, the truck has a very easy life and I don't have any of these problems. It only has 67K miles, wondering what I am supposed to do to prevent these common issues? Try to keep it as long as I can. Do you have any video about working on the transmission maintenance, and how you add that gas catch can?
Hey Dustin.. I got a question on my 2014 1500 CC Z-71.. like yourself, had the issues with the overheating transmission and A/C condenser, too. My torque converter shelled and kill my transmission. Overall, it cost me $4200. For that, I got a new torque converter and a reman transmission from the Chevy dealership with a 30K mile and 3 year warranty. I'm going to change the thermal valve asap. Early into my ownership of the truck, my condenser cracked (same location as you mentioned) and the dealership changed it and serviced the A/C free of charge, no questions asked. But my question is have you had an engine light come on for the "Bank 1 and Bank 2 fuel sensor" reading excess of fuel? Mine comes and goes. Not sure if it's tied in with the "ECO" mode or the two sensors (one in the front of the motor and one at the back) that sense the fuel quantity. If you have, what have you learned from that and the "fix" for it. I've heard it was the sensors (can't believe both "went" at the same time), O2 sensors (all 4?? nope).. I'm thinking the "ECO" might have something to do with it. What do you suggest? I hate to spend the money and time on changing ANYTHING without knowing exactly is the issue. Thanks for your videos and for your work on getting us answers!..CHEERS!!!!
More than likely the seals are leaking on your high pressure fuel pump mounted under the intake manifold and raw gas is feeding into your crankcase and engine oil
Hey Dustin... just found you channel and really like what you're doing... I have a question and replacing the transmission thermostat. I have a 2018 Sierra 1/2 ton that I plan on using to pull a travel trailer. I now know the importance of keep your transmission cool after watch your videos and many others.... knowing I will be hauling soon, would adding a transmission cooler do the same thing, as replacing the thermostat or maybe should I do both. If you or anyone else out there has advise on the best way to keep the transmission cool when towing , I'd appreciate it... keep up the great videos....
I went ahead and added a Billet Torque Converter. My Torque converter went out and damaged my whole transmission. I upgraded the Torque converter and will be adding the transmission coolant as well so I can at least get another 200k miles out of it.
I have a 2014 Chevy and mine has 64.000 on it ! I have not had any trouble with the engine! Once in a while I get a clunky sound when I am breaking! I took it to the dealership, and they said it was fuel sloshing that makes that sound I disagree with them ! I think there is an intermittent problem with the transmission, it doesn’t happen that often thankfully 😅 keep up your great videos!
I’m no mechanic. But I had a clunky sound when braking/slowing at higher speeds. I believe it was the AFM switching from 4to8 cylinders and the transmission was also trying to shift gears. The. AFM delete module seemed to correct it.
Saw your vid on 5 ways to bullet proof your 2014 gmc sierra where you talk about the condenser and your vid on how to replace. My question is this 5 ways video was dated like 1 year ago but the condenser vid was dated 6yrs ago. Was wondering if the older vid is the right one or do you have a more recent one that i can't find on this condenser issue and replacement? Thanks for the vids, they are really helpful.
I have a 14 high country and it’s really been the best truck ever with over 216808 miles on it. only things that went out on her is the water condenser and transmission at 202k miles. It’s not perfect but man I’m going to keep her till she kicks rocks🔥.
These trucks always seem to go out almost exactly at 200k miles Both of our 2013s transmissions went out at 200k miles and even a customer of mine bought a 2500 gasser and his went out at 200k miles
@@Man_in_a_Gucci_Suit that is true, I’m really surprised a lot of things Havnt gone wrong yet. I know ppl replacing fuel pumps and lifters/cam shafts before 100k. Really depends on the truck and how u take care of it. Least for me I can say she’s been one damn of a truck. Can’t speak for everyone tho.
@@duran4689 I have a 2014 Silverado with 167.5k miles It developed a lifter tick at 115k miles and I still have it haven’t replaced lifters cuz it cost $3,000 and it’s still fine many people would’ve panicked and replaced it all I did was buy a AFM disabler for $180 I think and keep it in V8 mode Other than that lower ball joints replacedd at 150k miless A/C condenser replaced 2x once under warranty at 35k miles (36k would’ve been out of pocket so I got lucky af) then another time few years later And now my ABS module went out and o think it’s $900+ to replace so I’m just gonna leave it alone tbh it doesn’t matter unless I live in a snowy area (I live in Texas) Overall these 2014-2018 trucks are good not quite as reliable as the 2013s My dad has a 2018 with 99k miles he had a bearing go out and everything else is fine
