5 ways to GLUE clear plastic without marks / Model Making Tips 

Hey Max! You're right, use the materials and tools around you. I like abstract shapes and forms for conceptual design, it's quick and you can move on to more ideas ;)

@Archie Speaks thanks for watching and commenting. If the piece is big and complicated, I'd recommend double sided tape as there is more control and less mess in the final look. With the UV resin it is possible, but it's judging the amount to apply and making sure you don't trap any bubbles. Does take a bit of practice first. With new content, I'll be pushing soon as I've just been a bit tied up with things and need to get my balance back. Thanks again, and best of luck!

Thanks for watching, I think I'll be ramping back up soon to update some content. Any other thoughts or suggestions welcome, cheers!

Hey ya! Hope that the video was helpful or at least inspirational in pushing on with your own projects. Thanks for the support, here to make things, more to come!

Hey ya! If it's clear and you're laminating small pieces it's doable. I have another video showing this. But with larger pieces it's tricky, no where for the air bubbles to escape. Then again if it's not clear you'll be alright ;)

Hey ya! There is always a solution for those sticky situations 😜 depends on the size and if it's face to face. I've been using a glue recently from eurobond EB7641LV, it is thin and good for edge joins. Forgiving if not applied the first time, a second chance to make sure all is in the right position. I've not had it long but seems to do the job of making display cases and some model making applications. Best of luck!

Hey ya! For five sided clear acrylic boxes, it's quite a challenge. You'll need to mitre the edges and use a fine high tooth table saw blade to make sure you don't chip it. Then UV glue it as it can fill in gaps and any excess can be cut off gently and lightly polished. It's a simple idea, but requires a lot of practice. Super glue will fog up, dicholoro methane is thin and might not fill in the gap for any inaccuracies. Good luck and keep up with practicing 👍

Hi ya! This could be tricky as the paper could absorb some of the glue too. I'm guessing it'll be applied from the inner side. Run a test, but clear resin to encapsulate it would be my choice. Fiddly but worth the effort, good luck 👍

Hey Belle! thank you for watching the video. With your upcoming light project it's tricky to give an answer without knowing more details seeing the situation at hand. If you do want to drop me a message on Instagram you can find me @iamjustamodelmaker. My initial thoughts on your light project might be a mechanical solution as heat can affect the glue and there are other forces that we do not plan for which can prematurely weaken the bonds. It was apparent from this video I gained a lot of comments on different possible scenarios, hence I have also responded by doing a new video today to glue clear plastic face to face with no marks. apologies in advance for not giving a more concise answer to your questions, but will be happy to explore and share thoughts with more details. Best wishes!

@Truth n Logic hey ya! This is a tricky one, it depends on a handful of factors. How big is the box, what are you holding liquid wise, how tidy does the finished product need to look, and how thick is the plexi sheet you're using? For holding hot water I'm afraid the chloroform might not close all of the gaps between the joins. You'll have to use tensol or at least seal all the gaps shut with heat resistant sealant. Sorry for the blunt answer, but just some thoughts on making it happen. Good luck!

@Truth n Logic with the heat of the water it is risky without doing a few tests first. I've made display cases and used UV glue to seal it, held water about a litre in a small case made up of 10mm with cold water. It was overkill but I know it didn't leak. It was for an architectural model.

Hey ya! HDPE is a hard slippery one. I've tried super glueing and epoxy two part, ok but can look a bit messy though.

Hey ya, depends on the type of pin and application. I think choosing a high quality stainless steel pin should work, then some UV resin to fill these gap.

Thank you for the message, yes for sure ventilation is super important especially tensol and dichloromethane. Nasty stuff especially with long exposure, be safe out there!

@annette Sereno Hey ya! Sure you can use these glues on acrylic to acrylic bonding. It depends on the final outcome you're after. Is it strength, are you after a permanent bond, will the acrylic be painted after? I'd say the trickiest of them all is to bond clear acrylic together, the transparency and keeping it clean. But doable with a couple trial runs before hand. I've also tested some other glues to laminate acrylic to acrylic face to face on another video and had good results from Tesa red clear double sided tap, and also a UV resin glue from Adhesive Brokers. You can catch that here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZyXZfL2sGUM.html Anyways, hope this helps and good luck with the project ahead. Do give me a shout if you have other questions, happy to help and find a solution.

Hi ya! I'd say if you are familiar with chloroform stick with the winning formula. If it's a hairline crack and can be held together securely for a full contact join, I think you'll be ok. When there is damage and chunks of material is missing it's harder to repair with good clarity. Hope this helps, best of luck with the task at hand.

@Mary Leung Dolls houses are amazing projects, I've not tried one yet but was always fascinated with the furniture and fittings. Anya Taylor Joy did a tv series 'The Miniaturist' a few years ago, based on a true story. Anyways here to help where possible and if there are other areas you'd need a little hand do give me a shout. Good luck with the kit, you'll have a lot of fun along the way.

Hi! Hope the video was useful, thanks for reaching out. Keep on working on your projects! Best of luck.

Hey ya! I've tried doing this before and learnt a couple things. Depending how big the candle is, you'll have to go for 5mm thick acrylic or more. It'll warp from the heat, be careful. I used thin superglue for mine and checked the joins were dry (a spray of activator helps too), but making sure it's neat on the inner/show face. Then reinforced the joins with hot glue. And then sealed the outer edges with carpet tape making sure if there was a leak, it won't go all over the place. I used super glue as I needed to break the mould in the end. Give it a go, you'll be alright, just make sure you seal all joins and maybe even place it in an aluminium tray in case it leaks. I use a similar method for casting resin, but moved onto multipart 3d printed moulds, it reduces the waste. Good luck, and have fun. Here if you need any trouble shooting.

Hey Delta Tango! I know the feeling with cutting bits off clear plastic, then having the feeling to glue parts back:/ Depending on your location I could suggest a range of possible products that could work. The first thing is to understand what you have used previously as I can get a feel for what you don't want. Then choose something that can be purchased and applied by you to carry out and reach a sufficient result. To respond immediately, I'd say avoid super glue on clear plastic as it fogs up and leaves a large mark that is tricky to polish away. Contact glue will hold but it's gloopy and doesn't offer the clarity you need. Hmm, it's an interesting one but not super tricky to resolve as long as we have some parameters set. Do drop me a line and we can figure this out once and for all ;) Ciao for now!

Hey ya! I have another video for glueing acrylic face to face. Check it out! Bu since then I have been trying other methods too, depends on the size of the sheet too. Good luck. Here to help and share thoughts if needed ;)

Hi ya! There are quite a few ways to do this. Currently testing a clear UV resin with structural properties on small pieces to hold water. In theory it is possible, but there must be a calculation for the volume and then thickness of the material. But if for an aquarium, I'd suggest glass, easier to clean and maintain. Best of luck!

@Nowthen AD one of my first videos, but have made improvements in the process of everyone and getting the hang of stuff better. Strongest, depends what you're after. I'd probably say Tensol but can messy sometimes.

In theory once the glue has dried off and set with adequate time they should be alright for under water use. Do check the spec sheet for the product and give a good clean before submerging the piece.

Thank you too for watching, I hope it helps with your upcoming projects or inspires you to create cleaner joins. Best of luck!

Trying to keep it real. I've been tackling some deadlines but will get back to some making soon enough. To find solutions for my own problems :/ but will share and let all know what I'm up to. Pass on the knowledge and maybe you don't mess up where I do ;)

I've tried UV glue for making structural parts for use with water ok. Dichloromethane is possible too, but have to check the joins are solid and surface contact is 100%. Best of luck!

These glues could work for your project, one key element is knowing if it is internal or external use, and how big are the letters? I've stuck 3 inch tall acrylic letters on an wooden entrance sign with a poly urethane glue from Gorilla and all seems to be well.

@@Iamjustamodelmaker thanks for replying! This project is internal and will be about 1ft tall letters on interior walls. I would definitely like know if they will last on an exterior tho they look so cool 🔥 I did see some other people mention Clear Loctite Premium might also give that a try and see what works best

The most important part is making sure if it is external, you use a external rated product. Good luck with the application 👍

@@Iamjustamodelmaker oooo okay thank you!! 💛👍

Thanks for watching and the kind thoughts. Looking forward to share more content soon!

Hey David, thanks for watching and hopefully it's given some ideas and thoughts on your projects. Most of these products are toxic chemicals when in a solution, but once set it's hard and stable. Not sure they are food safe though...

Hey ya! Thanks for watching, here to inspire and share thoughts to push ahead on things. I'm not too familiar with cellophane, but if it's a stained glass there must be a frame you can stick the cellophane to? Some very high bond (vhb) should do the job. Good luck and hope all goes well

Hey ya! It seems to be a popular task creating clear containers to hold water. Risky at most times, I know as I've failed before in my attempt. There is mosre than one way to do this and lots of people will chip in on thoughts. But I would UV glue it for the strength and the clean finish. Be mindful of the volume of water it is a huge weight even a small container and the pressure on the joints. Then in an ideal world if it were a long term permanent hobby, I'd for sure go for a glass setup. Peace of mind and all that. Anyways, I'm sure you'll come to a solution and find the best fit. Good luck!

Yes, all safety and PPE should be worn. Gloves, goggles, and plenty of ventilation. Safety first and to always be aware of the working environment. Tan line? I just catch that sun so easily when it's out. Thanks for watching and reminder on safety.

@@Iamjustamodelmaker of course, safety first! i just noticed it because currently debating to invest in one of those new electronic watches. currently looking into glues for acetate sheets /cellophane, i am using a gorilla glue but it streaks. need to do more research

Hey Brian, it's a Orient Flight, modified with face and hands as a homage to the Sinn 656. It's a nice piece and the lumes are clear in the dark. I've modded other watches, beware it's quite addictive.

Hey Randy, thanks for the question and hopefully we can find a solution. Firstly the purpose of bonding these pieces together? The reason I ask is to understand the clarity you are after. The second is to see which material the pieces are made of. Finally where are you based, maybe we can prepare a sheet of acrylic to meet your needs. We need to check the thickness and then the sizes. Let me know how you get along. Best, W.

Hey ya! I've had this issue too years ago. Depending how big the crack is and if it is near hinges or if it is flat makes a big difference. I used dichloromethane pure to have it seep into the crack. It bonded it together but wasn't completely clear, near enough though. After so many years it has held up well and isn't an obvious crack till you look really really close. Best of luck with the repair.

Hey ya! I've not tried StixAll yet but did some reading and it looks pretty tough stuff being polymer based and can even glue in the wet! I'll try some later down the line when the application comes to hand. With holding large pieces, how big is BIG? Also, are you glueing them edge to face or face to face? With edge to face and presuming at 90 degrees, I would suggest using a couple of set squares to keep the piece standing upright. Then carefully use masking tape on the outer side to keep in position. If face to face, my favourite would be to clamp or weigh the two pieces together with a piece of wood sheet to protect the finished face. ANd also making sure there is even pressure all round. Without knowing exactly the application, these ideas are just things I would initially try off the top my head. Good luck and have fun!

​ @I am just a model maker Thank you! I did what you said, used masking tape and going bit by bit to glue the corners first, the height of the tank is 50cm so it was time consuming but I got there with patience. All glued up. Thanks so much for this video! I ended up using a cement which wasn't very smelly so that was useful too - from 4D Model Shop. :D

@@hamstertime3898 good job! Glad it worked out, sometimes it just needs a bit of patience and persistence to get the hang of things. Thank you for watching and keep on making ;)

I also need to know this

Hey ya! With these glues I say technically Tensol would be good one to bond and provide a strong joint as it melts the two parts together. | used Tensol 12, but for out door applications there is a Tensol 70. Dearer but can handle the elements. As a thought, and depending on the size and complexity, it might be more cost effective to go the 3d print route. ASA filament is very tough material that can handle the rain and UV degradation. Hope this helps, and good luck with your projects.

I'd go uv resin, but make sure that the brand your using has a tech sheet to show the structural ability. Not all UV rain glues are the same. Another consideration is the volume of water as it is a huge weight, the thickness of material is critical. Best of luck, if you need any further help, shout!

Yep, Acetone is good for attaching Acrylic together. But with nail polish remover they do come in different strengths. I guess it's a matter of trial and error. Or the other option is to use other acetone based acrylic glues as they are more consistent in strength.

Sir can you pleasr share your email or Facebook id. i need some help in pasting two sheets of acrylic for my project

@@Iamjustamodelmaker i am looking for a heat seal dry glue to paste my acrylic sheets

BS

Hey ya! This is tricky one, but think it's more architectural. Without testing hard to say whether plexi or polycarbonate is better. But if your planning to stay in your studio, night be better to check out glass partitions.

@@Iamjustamodelmaker hmm I was hoping for it to be 4/5 sesion tent like.. some places are hot and I would love to take it too the snow for winter camping >_

Hmm, tricky to visualise your goal. Drop me a DM via Instagram, a sketch or photo of your project and I'll be happy to discuss further. Ciao

Hey ya! In theory I think it should work, as long as the bond between layers are clear. Then run the piece on a table saw to cut the shape and then a polish. I've not tried this, but another option might be to cast a prism out of clear resin. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

@Vuong Nguyen Hey ya! I've been a big aquatic fan for some time. If you do want to build a fish tank, I'd say leave it to the pros and buy a small one at least out of glass. The finish, the ease of cleaning and the peace of mind. It's your best bet. Good luck!

Hey ya! With out seeing the challenge at hand, I'd say it is possible even edge to edge, face to edge, face to face. Check out my other video on face to face bonding. Super glue is possible for bonding, but depends on the application and how strong you need it to be. Aesthetically it'll probably haze up and leave a mark on the surface. And if you were looking for a faster bond, an activator to speed up the glue would help. Be careful as it can get quite hot during the reaction. Best of luck!

@@Iamjustamodelmaker OK thanks a lot GOD BLESS YOU

That's a good one, I remember back in the days I used to mix the chopped up acrylic dust off the table saw and mixed it with dichloromethane to thicken it all up. It was good at the time, I mean years ago and did the job well ;)

Hey ya! It is possible to glue two pieces which are roughly cut, but the strength and clean look is at risk. With out knowing the specifics of the project there are options. If the edge is rough but relatively flat a thicker glue can be used to make use of the gap filling properties, for example a thick superglue with activator. This won't be super clean in terms of aesthetics but will provide a strong bond. An alternative if this suits the project, is to place brass threaded inserts in to the vertical piece and secure with a screw for the joining piece. Hope this helps, there have been many scenarios mentioned in the comments for video and I try my best to assist. Maybe it's time for another video for the raised questions?

@@Iamjustamodelmaker Thanks a lot, Sir!

Hey ya, a tricky one without seeing a picture to solve the puzzle. I'd give it a go and say resin uv glue for no marks but if you are making the toppers yourself, cut slots in the toppers to manually slot them together. You can always drop me a line in Insta. Best of luck!

Hey ya! You could, but it can get a bit messy. 2 part epoxy can be quite medium thin and then want to find places to move to when setting. I've tried it in my attempts and failed, but doesn't mean it won't end up the result you might be looking for. Don't get me wrong, I'm a Virgo and I ain't looking for perfection all the time ;)

@@Iamjustamodelmaker It may sound odd, but I have some scrap acrylic which I want to use to make a box (because it's the only sheet plastic I have). I will be painting the box black, so it may not need to be "perfect".

@@Enigma758 hey! In theory it should be ok but a few points to consider though. The thickness of the material, the size of the box, the load that that is going to be applied later. Maybe some structural support to add strength. Hope this helps, without seeing a sketch it's a bit tricky for me. Go by feel, I'm sure you'll be alright :)

Hey ya! There are many factors to consider. First of all if it's for drinking i'd avoid glueing it back together, some glues still give off chemicals. Secondly where it broke might be a weak area and will break again when fixed again. But if you feel it's just for display or holding pens, my favourite at the moment is UV resin. Especially one that is thin and has high mechanical strength. For display purpose only. I'm trying out some shortly, will keep you posted with results!!! Hope this helps

@@Iamjustamodelmaker thank u for helping out! 🫂✨️

@@btsarmy1951 did it work out ok, what did you use in the end ? Happy to know you've saved a sentimental item.

Hey ya! I've cracked my freezer basket fronts before and have managed to use Tensol to glue it back as there was a gap. Give a little polish to the seam line and it's ok. Not completely unnoticeable but keeps the front in one piece though. Hope this helps, good luck.

@@Iamjustamodelmaker Muchly many thank yous from the PLANET NOODLE…

Hi ya, I've not tried that method before. What are you trying to assemble and what type of finish are you after??

Hey ya, for your purpose it might be easier to buy an off the shelf solution. Not sure what vehicle you have but there must be some louvres out there or even a blind which is semi transparent. Or a double blind one for semi trans material and then black out blind. That's what I would do if I were in a camper. Good luck!

Or when the time comes, I can spend some time with you and resin 3d print a solution. I started off with scale model cars, and this is the reason I became a model maker and fabricator of all sorts. It's the hands on stuff I like the most 😉

I don't think it'll create the bond between the two materials. Tensol relies on melting acrylic to acrylic to create a strong bond.

With two part glues I recommend mixing them on an area big enough for the total amount you need. If it's a small amount it's trickier to get the right 50/50, but with a couple of tries you'll be ok. Take your time and visualise the half way mark between the two. You'll get the hang of it. Also make sure the temperature is ok too, as it's harder in the cold.

Hey ya! Sounds like an end to end join, is there a load bearing on the piece? If no you'll be ok, but if yes you will need reinforcements on the top or even the bottom to give it the strength for the long span. Hope this helps, if you want to discuss in more detail, message me on Instagram. Kind regards

@@Iamjustamodelmaker thank you!

Hey ya! Off the top of my head, for sun and rain I think Tensol/dichloromethane would be a strong bond as it actually melts the two pieces together. Also consider what the other purposes you desire, heavy loads, aesthetics, temperature range to name a few. Hope this helps, good luck.

@@Iamjustamodelmaker solid advice. I'm trying to build a skylight to replace the one i broke. It'll be in the sun, rain and snow of the 4 seasons and will be subjected to a fair amount of wind when i drive my van down the motorway. Tensol 12 is cheap but is apparently only for indoor use. I didnt know if that meant i could glue it inside then take it outside after the glue is set or if that meant it cant go outside at all... my main worry is the uv rays from the sun... thoughts?

www.trentplastics.co.uk/adhesives-tapes-cleaners/tensol-12-adhesive Says indoor use only. I dont really know what that means but makes me feel i wont be able to expose the glue joints to the elements. But tensol 70 is soooooo expensive!!

Hey ya! With the skylight, are you dealing with a custom size? I think your safest bet is to install a skylight unit for the van, and then use a marine sealant to bond it to the roof panel. I had an issue with a glass sunroof o. An old VW, and just cut the roof out to apply a carbon fibre skin to resolve the issue. No more leaks and the Delaney is nice and flexible for bumps and vibrations. I've not tried Tensol 70 but looking at the data sheet it's a two part application and would provide a stronger bind against the elements. Then again I have stuck pieces with Tensol 12 and they have sat on the window sill of the workshop for years and no problem.

Hey ya, I've always used these types of bonds in various situations. They all have different pros and cons in different scenarios. Maybe another video is in order to cover the questions raised and I can demo the tests? Thanks for watching and commenting

Hey ya! What do you want to stick together??? Can give you a tip if you give me a better idea of your project :)

Hey ya! I think it's a custom mix that Adhesive brokers have used for quite some time. They usually make products to clients needs and can tailor solutions as you like. Best drop them a line and they could assist.

Hey ya! Are you bonding the edge to face or face to face? What size is the acrylic and possible loads?

Hey! I'm based in the UK and depending what I'm making I would typically buy 1000x600mm clear sheets as that's the max bed size on the laser cutter. Hindleys is usually good and next day, Bay plastics for laminates and bigger sheets. I'm sure there are loads out there, comes down to price and availability.

Hey ya! I've always known the bottle as a glue dispenser, it is handy for dichloromethane as it keeps it safe and releases it in the right amount. I'm not sure of the official name, but if needed I have some in stock here, but will put a link out soon for purchase.

I'm not sure what the end result expectation is, but weight and size of the piece, also if clear plexi is used... I'd say no, as there are a lot of products that can be used out there to hold sheet material to none matching substrates which are much stronger than silicon and suitable for the job. Good luck!

@@Iamjustamodelmaker Hi, Actually Silicone bond is extremely strong. I'm model maker too and we use it to glue buildings (mostly context) to the base, the only way to un-glue it is to use a dental floss and cut the silicone under the building, that's also how the glass panels are glued in my shower and it's not going anywhere. I think that the misconception comes from the softness. One downside it's extremely hard/impossible to clean up, so you want to use very little (no oosing) and masking tape on surrounding areas.

Hey ya! With glueing edges with thin glues is sufficient enough to use dots to balance strength and spread nearly. The thin glue will travel between the two pieces through capillary action and won't overflow.

Thank you for watching! Hope it was useful and you can tackle the projects ahead. Good luck!

Hey ya, vapours I'm afraid. Even if you have a dry environment and keep fingers off all areas. There's always places the white marks get too... Annoying I know.

@@Iamjustamodelmaker i think I'm going to use epoxy and see how that goes

Do a couple of tests first and then the real thing. Epoxy is possible and will adjust to temp changes better than super glue. Good luck and hope it comes together

@@Iamjustamodelmaker any way to renove the dried vapour stains?

@@chrisgooi hey ya! You can polish them out. Start off with a fine wet and dry paper. With our seeing it, I'd say start around 2000 grit and see if it removes the rough areas. Gently and gradually move to a finer grit, and then use a cutting polish. Check if there are any scratches, if rough ones gently use a fine wet and dry paper to remove and polish again. Be gradual and rub in an even motion to avoid dips and pits. Good luck!

Hey ya! Depends on the sheet size and the thickness, also assuming it'll be clear acrylic. Hindleys are usually next day on sheets at 1000x600mm, Bay plastics are quite reasonable too and do larger sheets. Cast clear acrylic is pricy nowadays, got to shop around...

@@Iamjustamodelmaker Fanx muchly.

🙄🙄🙄

Hey! With these organisers I think they are injection moulded. Glueing these side by side by can be tricky but depends on temperature, load, and aesthetics. Any bonding or glueing would be visible from the inner sides. VHB double-sided tape is a quick and easy solution. Or off the top of my head, create a tray or clip the organisers together. Good luck

Hello, was watching the vid and saw ur comment. Try alien tape, its clear and tough as hell. It can hold quite a bit of weight too. I found it at wal- mart in the as seen on TV isle. If no luck with glue, try it. No mess either.

With the right technique and application, a simple hot glue gun can produce a strong bond, just will not be clear though .

@@fredbradshaw3835 hey ya! Thanks for watching and suggesting other methods. I used to use crystal clear tape from Tesa, it was good but a lot of the times for glueing scale models it can be a bit fiddly. Your right, it's a strong bond and if done without finger prints the camera doesn't pick it up.

@@fredbradshaw3835 glue gun is a good solution a lot of the time, but can get a bit messy sometimes. Comes down to the control of flow and a steady hand. The thing that annoys me the most and the reason I use the glue gun as a last resort is that once it's glued and done, it's not ideal for making alterations and isn't the most precise. A previous tutor of mine would ban me from hot glue, as we always knew there were revisions ahead, and we would save a lot of headache from removing all of the hot glue :/

Good thanks, clocks have gone back autumn is here and more work at the workshop to make more things and content too :)

Hey Christopher, where are you based? If you are in the UK, muji sell a similar shelving unit that you can purchase of the peg but will need to add another shelf. If you are after something bespoke for your needs there must be a local fabricator that can help you meet your goals. Worst case, you can DM me and can have a look for a solution for you. Good luck.

Running two glues isn't such a bad idea. For example, the super glue and emulsion means it holds quickly and is also flexible. There isn't a glue that satisfies both qualities that I know yet. But the emulsion is flexible and can withstand a lot of movement especially in transit. So all good for me. Depends what you're after.

Hey ya! In general hot glue will hold well to two substrates when glued and set. Depends on your location, and application, but will have to be pretty extreme to melt from the ambient temperature. I think you'll be good ;)

Yes, I recommend safety precautions. Eye protection, have a well ventilated area, and also wash your hands after. A bit of deligence and focus you'll be ok

Some of the methods show take time to settle. The tapes need pressure, the glues can take a few hours to set fully. That's the key element, patience. I've run a handful of solutions here but there is more out there. Takes time to see the results. Initially they might look poo, but give it time and know that you might need to give it a little persuasion ;)