Optimized drivetrain. 1x chainring, because how often do you need a inner chainring? Bigger chainring(like 54/56/58t and a 12-25t cassette) for the improved chainline and less chaindeflection. Wax your chain with 50/50 parafin and parafinoil. Less chain maintenance, less friction and longer drivetrain-life. Always pump up your tires to the desired pressure before every ride. Go with the fastest tire available that still has decent puncture proctection and mileage. Try latex inner tubes. Don't use 25mm tires. IME, every 23mm roadtire blows to around 25-26mm on a 17-19c rim. The tire should be 95% of the width of the outer rim to improve airattachment to the wheel. You would need a 28-30mm wide rim in order to integrate 25mm tires in a aerodynamic way. Like Cannondales Knot wheels with their massive 31mm outer diameter. If you have a regular front brake which isn't integrated, invest in a aero brake caliper or bodge a fairing to clean the airflow. Hold your hands on the extensions in a arrow-like postion. Splits the air a bit more cleanly before it passes to the body. Saves around 0,5 watt
The #1 way of improving average speed on the bike and go faster in T.T.s , is to pace to the road. Go hard where your going slowest, and back off just a bit when your going fastest. So for example, On a flat road once you get up to speed and have momentum, you can start to back off on your power. On the hills go harder to increase speed and carry momentum into the flat section or downhill.
Not sure if any of these tips can get you any advantage if you're simply haven't got into cycling enough yet. A year of building a tecnique gives ability to cycle much better and faster comparing of quick fixes with no basement. What do you think tecnique building stages should be and how long should one dedicate for that?
Pretty sure at 3:25 shows a brief clip of my home town, home of the Ironman World Championship: Kona!! It looks like the Old Kona Airport with Hualalai volcano in the background 🤙🏽
As a beginner, I'm not sure what to say or where to start.. I can't afford these sweet sweet bikes due to covid.. Even then.. Sorry I'm behind the curve here.. Still love the channel.. I just feel like very little of this actually applies to me... And if I had years in the sport I probably wouldn't need to listen to anything in this video.. Hmmm
Some of my biggest gains were from dailing in my position and finding more comfort as well. Doing this indoors makes making testing/adjustments easier.
Once again, all those wonderful watt saving tips simply fly out the window if you do not rotation balance your wheels! WHY? Wheels carry inertia and if your wheels are not balanced they oscillate and create what is called interrupted inertia thus slowing you down tremendously. But if you balance your wheels there is no oscillation so your inertia is smooth flowing thus greatly increasing your speed using the same amount of energy/watts. Once you naturalize your wheels, then all those wonderful watt saving tips can work and do their thing.
it looks like you use risers under the aero bars... how high risers are a good start height? Profile design got lot of different riser heights, from 70 mm down to 20 mm... I think risers must be smart to avoid one cannot get in with ones hand on the bar under the aero bars otherwise as well for getting used to the bent over position of course... but would 70 mm be way too high to get enough aero dynamic usage from the aero bars. or what height is a good starting height? thanks for getting back to anyone that tested by trial and errors...
So you're saying I can eat and pedal at the same time? I'm new to this all.. Just trying to understand the game.. I guess if you're smashing through 90km on a bike you need to stop? That's what this implies... Or not. I'm asking an honest question.. Don't beat me up please..
