Thanks so much. Still very much a novice but just smitten with weaving. Sure wish I had started earlier in life (I’m 72!). Just attempted the log cabin pattern.......what a challenge! Thanks again
Restarted after 20 years. I'll be 72 soon. Learning to use a rigid heddle. Some how I thought it would be easy. Uh, nope😲😲😲😟😟😞😞😊😊😊😊. I was weaving intricate double weave on a floor loom and now I'm wondering what the heck!!!
I love being able to learn different ways to do things! Thanks for sharing! Be careful of mocking the crank-and-yankers, and the "no combing" people. It's just a different way, and we all need to do what works for us! As in most things in life, there are bazillions of ways to get the job done!
As mentioned therein, "forgive me if you like that technique", cuz "I'm not that kind of girl". Please be aware that I have a hard time not working in a "tongue in cheek" manner so please take no offense. Think of me as your "opinionated weaving counselor" who is likewise not offended if you don't agree with my opinions. Best wishes.
Wow these are some of the exact questions I had when learning how to warp for the first time yesterday (using 2D instructions) - thank you so much for offering this content. Now searching your videos for advice on how to weave even selvedge edges!
You are welcome. Happy to help. Try this video if you havn'et already, and happy weaving! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CzLgm-iT6NI.html
Wow! Thank you! I have watched MANY utubes on weaving and many great ones but your tips and being so wonderful to share them!! So helpful!I am a fairly new weaver and has been couple years, so need to relearn, but this video was great and got me excited to start weaving.....and Togo right on Amazon and get your books. Thank you from NC!
Hi beautiful Staring into your pretty face seeing your sparkling eye I must say you look stunning too, sorry to infringe on your privacy, can I have your attention maybe we can find few things interesting about ourselves🌞
Such great tips and I love your presentation style. I a newbie weaver but your tips are so useful and your relaxed approach is confidence inspiring. Thanks!
Hi beautiful Staring into your pretty face seeing your sparkling eye I must say you look stunning too, sorry to infringe on your privacy, can I have your attention maybe we can find few things interesting about ourselves🌞
I've been a multi harness flier loom weaver since 1992. But I've started RH weaving recently. The 2 ways of weaving are somewhat similar but in many ways very different. I'm enjoy my RH loom - a Schacht the same size as yours 😁 Thank you, thank you, thank you for the practical tips in this vid, as well as the others you've published. You've helped me settle into this new way of weaving! Thank you again - stay safe out there in AZ 😁
Glad to help Dan, and thanks for the the complement. Yes, similar, but different. No doubt you will be an awesome rigid heddle weaver with such a great background.
Hi beautiful Staring into your pretty face seeing your sparkling eye I must say you look stunning too, sorry to infringe on your privacy, can I have your attention maybe we can find few things interesting about ourselves🌞
Thank you, I had used rubber shelf paper using the yank and crank method and it wound up being a tension disaster. The method you showed for winding on the warp seems a much better way to control it. I also like the idea of splitting up warp when only using one peg but I think my very next purchase will be a 2nd warping peg. Thanks again, all great tips for this newbie weaver, I look forward to your next video and hearing about your new book.
Hi beautiful Staring into your pretty face seeing your sparkling eye I must say you look stunning too, sorry to infringe on your privacy, can I have your attention maybe we can find few things interesting about ourselves🌞
Please, could you write the titles of your books, I could not catch them.You are an wonderful teacher, thank you! Lots of health for you and your family!
Sorry so fast. "Woven Style for the 15" Rigid Heddle Loom" and "Color and Texture for the Rigid Heddle Loom" by Tamara Poff. You can get them on Amazon. Thanks for the compliment!
Hi beautiful Staring into your pretty face seeing your sparkling eye I must say you look stunning too, sorry to infringe on your privacy, can I have your attention maybe we can find few things interesting about ourselves🌞
It is a way to easily sley an odd number of warp ends between the contrast loops without a warping board. Normally loops restrict us to even numbers with direct warp. I need to center those contrast loops between odd numbers due to a certain pick-up pattern I'll be weaving. This will be taught in detail in my next book.
I have a rigid heddle like yours and nice but took class on a 15” one and really enjoyed portability of it. Watching many videos to see which is best between Cricket ( took class using this one), Kromski ( friend loves) and Ashford, I see so many using Ashford. Want a 15 or close to that one but confused. Any suggestions?
Can you help me understand how to warp odd numbers of threads? I have seen many patterns using single color warp thread (or an odd number), and I don’t understand how to secure the odd end.
If you use the direct warping method (drawing loops from the back of the loom through the reed to a peg), you draw the loop, cut the yarn at the peg, and tie that end to the peg. Then you will tie on to the back rod and draw loops as the pattern directs from there. I can't speak for the pattern you choose but pay close attention to how the pattern tells you to sley the reed from there as it may vary. Indirect warping with a warping board is less common for rigid heddle but is another way to count out an odd number of ends without a peg. Hope that helps!
I always love your videos. I have a 30” heddle loom. Sometimes there isn’t enough room to continue rolling the yarn. Can the support bar near the material be removed to add more area...?
Thank you, Dorothy. That is a very interesting question. Sounds like you are talking about winding on a long warp and having trouble with it getting crowded in the back? I've had students in class with the 30", but I own the 25". I only have to guess on that as I don't think I've ever put more than 11 feet on mine and have not had a problem. The flip loom is very well constructed and the extra supports get it through heavy use, folding etc. I would think you could try removing it and leave it off until you weave through some of that warp, then replace it when you can.
Mirando fijamente tu cara bonita y viendo tus ojos brillantes, debo decir que también te ves impresionante, lamento infringir tu privacidad, ¿puedo tener tu atención? Tal vez podamos encontrar algunas cosas interesantes sobre nosotros.
Thanks for the videos! I'm a new weaver and am having trouble with the tension in my outer-most warp threads on each side. They tend to get looser as I weave. Any suggestions, tips, tricks? What am I doing wrong?
I see this primarily when the weaver is consistently sticking their hand into the shed (the warp opening) along with the shuttle and it stretches the selvage threads. If you have a wide warp, try throwing the shuttle at your other hand, through the shed, to keep your hand out of there. If that's not it, make sure you when you tie on that you tie to the front apron with the first bundle at center right, then left...alternating your way to tying the outside edges. This will likely make your outer bundles a little tighter which is fine. ALSO, make sure those selvage threads are not falling off the warp packing as you work. If you don't have an inch or so of packing either side of your warp as you wind, this can lead to that problem. Hope that helps! Stay tuned for the next video, I'll try to address that.
@@poffstudio3328 Thank you so much for this video. Question about your note above. I was taught to start tying on from the outside in, alternating sides, then going back and tightening everything again. I'm a new weaver so I have lots to learn. Does it make a difference tying on from the center out vs. from the sides in?
This can vary with different brands. The hook made for the Schacht Cricket is smaller than the one they provide with their flip for example. If you are already using a smaller hook, try to keep the hook as parallel to the floor as possible and enter the hole with hook down for maximum ease. If you are still frustrated, you could try large needle threaders. I think they make such things for hair weaving as well. Sometimes the yarn is the problem if you are trying to sley yarns thicker than a sport gauge. Hope that helps.
Would you be kind enough to say which rubberised shelf liner you use? There seems to be a myriad of choices online but none look quite like what you are using.
Here is where I got my 20" wide: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CTB5CDC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Local big box stores carry up to 18". Brand is not so important as long as you find perforated rubberized material. I like the way it wears well weaving after weaving. Set it straight and let it roll on naturally without a lot of tugging and it works well due to its traction. When I weave wider than 18" of warp, I go back to kraft paper since I have not found wider than 20" of this product.
I have a question, I was warping for kitchen towels (1st time) but after I started weaving I saw when I am in down position (Rigid Heddle) my threads are all over the place. The shed has strings up and down but when Im in the up position everything is fine. I recognize it's a tension issue. I went back and unwound everything thinking it was the way I wound on. Did not solve the problem. I then retied onto the apron with the knots with a string . did not work so I tied them on in bundles with the slot strings up and the hole strings down and that worked the best but not all the way. Can you help ? any suggestions Somewhere I saw someone say to put the reed in down position while tieing onto apron. Thank you Gail Burford
Hi Gail, I thought I responded to this 3 weeks ago, but must not have clicked the reply button then. Sorry so slow. 5 things come to mind at the moment: 1. Do you have a lot of crossed threads behind the reed? If so, ream that back shed out with a shuttle or pick-up stick each time you advance your weaving to open a clean front shed. 2. Yarns with very low elasticity, like linen, can be a problem here. Good, firm tension helps. Sometimes keeping a stick or shuttle in the back opening, pushed to the back beam can help with this. 3. Combining yarns that vary greatly in elasticity can also be a problem. This has the same solution as #2. 4. I've had folks with a Schacht flip who don't realize that the heddle goes all the way under the heddle block for the down shed. 5. Weavers with Ashford Knitter's Loom warp with the loom flat and then have to hinge it on an angle to weave. Plastic pegs each side set the angle as I remember. In any case, I can't see warping with the heddle down -unpredictable results. I've never seen this to be necessary. Hope that helps. If not, email me through www.poffstudio.com and I'll set you up so you can send me photos if this is still a problem.
Really helpful video - 1 question - would be okay to direct warp all my threads through the hole first? I'm wondering if that would be a time saver at all? I'm very new to weaving but have warped 2 mini projects - the first was just exploring and the second a little 8 inch wide bag. Thank you!
It will remain faster and easier for you to pull your loops through the slots first. Holes are harder to get your hook through. I only draw loops in holes (alternating with slots) when I am doing some special patterning with stripes. Example: uneven number of ends in my stripes. One time that you can draw loops in both holes and slots is when you are using a double strand. Then you can skip the step of sleying altogether.
I have a question, I was warping for kitchen towels (1st time) but after I started weaving I saw when I am in down position (Rigid Heddle) my threads are all over the place. The shed has strings up and down but when Im in the up position everything is fine. I recognize it's a tension issue. I went back and unwound everything thinking it was the way I wound on. Did not solve the problem. I then retied onto the apron with the knots with a string . did not work so I tied them on in bundles with the slot strings up and the hole strings down and that worked the best but not all the way. Can you help ? any suggestions Somewhere I saw someone say to put the reed in down position while tieing onto apron. Thank you Gail Burford
Hi Gail, It is tough to pinpoint your problem with words and no photos and not knowing what yarns used or what loom you are working with. You wouldn't normally expect to need to go to such lengths to make this work well, so there is some missing piece I think. This most often happens when weavers don't place the front apron rod (on a Cricket loom) up and over the top front beam so that the warp is parallel with the table top when sitting flat. Shortcutting without covering the top front beam makes the warp rise on an angle - big problem. Sometimes the Ashford Knitters loom has this problem due the hinge that angles the loom while working. If you are alternating yarns of different types - stretchy with non-stretchy, this can be the problems in which case you might place a pick-up stick in the back shed opening (down position) and push it all the way to the back beam while weaving. Some yarns have absolutely no give (100% linen and coated yarns) and those can be a struggle where the stick in the back can help, but still a struggle. Some weavers with the Schacht Flip don't realize that the reed must go all the way under the heddle block for the down shed. If none of this is helpful, email me through my website, www.poffstudio.com, and I can open up a way to share some photos. I would not advise tying on in any position other than neutral for best tension.
