Personally I let my car warm up for already 60 seconds before I start moving, then I'll short shift it (before 3k rpm) until I feel likes it warmed up and I keep my throttle inputs light. Another thing to mention is making sure the transmission, transfer case and differentials are all also warmed up. So for atleast 15 minutes of driving I won't even think about hitting full boost. just my .02¢
same. people tend to forget about the transmission and diff. when your car is in neutral or park, the engine warms up but the trans and diff dont, flooring it could ruin the teeth in the tranny and diff
You should do a video about most commonly failed parts on n54, and brief description on why they fail. (Injectors,hpfp, water pump, cp failure, belt slip through the motor, power steering pump, etc.)
Your car will be faster doing all of these upgrades/mods Except for the charge pipe, but do that just for your minds sake I agree with all of these upgrades/mods
5 ways to make your bmw reliable 1, sell it n buy something japanese 2, if u insist on buying a bmw get extended warranty 3, service earlier than bmw recommend 4, use genuine bmw parts n not OE quality parts 5, get another job to pay for the parts for your N54 335i Jokes aside they can be very reliable especially the diesels, 335i start going wrong when u start modding! Mine was fine till I started fiddling with it 😉
Cant stress letting the car warm up properly enough!!! Just because your engine reaches operating temps does not mean your oil is up to temp... the e46 m3 gauge cluster has an oil temp reading i never get above 5k until oil is fully warmed and short shift ~3k while engine is getting up to temp. Another thing for us s54 owners is making the switch to 5w50 oil “half as thick on cold start, where bearing wear is 80% or greater” theres a whole debate on it but im making the switch next oil change
I know it's crazy, but I was reading the owners manual yesterday and it said to start driving immediately with moderate throttle...why do they suggest that? Because of the long time it takes these engines to warm up? 🤷♂️
@@markburkey6371 from my understanding it’s because of the low oil pressure at idle, especially when dealing with cold and less viscous oil there’s increased risk for metal on metal contact. The other reason I know is because when a car sits while getting up to temp, only the engine is heating. Since Metals expand when heated, over time it may cause things to misalign or increase wear. They recommend not waiting too long to start driving so that all the different systems warm up evenly (engine, trans fluid, diff oil, axle grease, etc.)
Don’t know if this a tip or anything but if ur too lazy to let it warm up get a remote starter don’t know if this a bad take or not but I think it’s kinda something that might help
Most of what you suggested makes perfect sense, but was surprised by your downpipe suggestion! Firstly, it’s a serious breach of emissions where I live and getting busted would certainly hurt the hip pocket. Sounds like something VW would recommend given their track record on this topic. I have also come across some people that have gone down this path and complained about smell getting into the cabin and error codes coming up. I guess the tune would sort out the latter.
I’ve bein watching your channel for about a year now and have watched this car blossom and would love to baby it just like my e90 details every Monday and at least a slide a day so she can eat some beans drive your cars right and make sure there maintained
Am shocked by the downpipe comment I would have figured having downpipes would create more boost and in turn cause the famous waste gate rattle to occur
I'm personally not sold on the downpipe argument just due to pressure balances the stock downpipes are 1-2psi backpressure which is very little but based on the design I believe it helps the seals last longer by exerting less pressure on them
Lmao ive done everything youve shown in this video except an oil catch can and its taken its tole on the car im about to clean the intake valves and probably switch my cheap ebay aluminum chargepipe to the vrsf one due to fitment issues i ignored and considering my current chargepipe doesnt have a methanol injection bung for the injector and i want to run meth here soon so i am going to use your link and buy the chargepipe since youve helped me alot thru my build due to your videos being done and up while i was doing all my bolt ons thank you for these videos. But listen guys everything this man just said is true very very recommended for everyone to do these things to their cars
@@VehicleVirals so I guess if I didn’t drive it very much say only to car shows or on the weekend maybe every couple years it would need to be done thanks for the info. I do like the sound of the N54 and would like a 335i but just trying to get an idea how often things would need to be done and how much things would cost because it definitely wouldn’t stay stock
@@gasgod7404 probably right that’s mostly likely why I haven’t bought one because I’m not financially in a spot to afford the maintenance on one but some day maybe just have to keep working toward the goal
@@riseupstudios12 keep saving brother and when you know you can maintain it and find one for a good deal pull the trigger and I guarantee you it will bring you joy beyond belief. I was not trying to bash you or be hurtful but the cars are not cheap to maintain i just had to spend $6000+ on maintenance on mine
@@steveb9525 If you're going to do lots of WOT runs or track it etc and suffer heat soak, do the FMIC. But like the FMIC, you don't need to do the downpipes unless you want to really trick it out to stage 2 MHD. If you just want to show off occasionally, you don't need either :)
The B58 is a new engine. I would say yes with the catch can, quality fuel, properly warming up & the catless downpipe stuff. It's similar to n54/n55 in that it's still a turbocharged inline 6 made by BMW, so treat it the same, but the chargepipe problem is specific to n54. Look up a B58 reliability video to find the B58's specific problems.
Yes, but you dont necessarily need to do a "walnut blast", head over to Vehicular DIY and check how to clean the intake valves without doing a walnut blast, after cleaning your valves i highly recommend you immediately install an oil catch can so carbon deposits dont build up on the valves again.
@@tonka10r99 I did this - be prepared to spend a lot of time and a lot of lower back pain, for a middling result. If you've got a lot more time than money, it'll work. Maybe mine was too far gone to do "manually", I wish I'd just done the walnut blast.
The feeling of watching this as a mechanic (still a rookie), with a Volvo P24 S60 2.4T (B5244T3) with a M56 and a P12 V50 1.6D (D4164T) with a MTX75 both barely broken in with only around 280 000Km to 290 000Km. One is 20 years old and the other is 10. You know a Volvo will run forever if maintained properly, i guess it is the same with BMWs. Also OKQ8 and Shell and Circle K 95 octane (European rating what ever it called) has been good enough for my families Volvos (except the V50 of corse).
Legendary RON is a way to rate octane and yes 95 RON is 91 PON, which is “good enough” for stock Volvos, but I will switch to 98 RON (93 PON) when i tune the P24.
Leaving aside comparing boring slow-ass Volvo sedans to a sports car, first result I got for Googling the V50 was "The V50 has been recalled numerous times, most noticeably for potential leaks in the fuel pipes and power steering pipes, faulty handbrakes and faulty cooling fans."
@@gfkBill good thing then that I'm almost a Volvo Mechanic (spent 2 year working as a Volvo Mechanic trainee). The S60 isn't the fastest (200Hk/285Nm from factory), but i enjoy it (sorry if your 12 year old mind isn't able to comprehend the idea that some own car for their own amusement instead of trying to please others), there is nothing like a 5 cylinder. The V50 is a surprisingly pleasant daily driver, extremely fuel efficient (i have average 56MPG US or 4.2 liters per 100Km).
@@klaspeppar5619 Ha ha, easy tiger. This 12 year old is 52 :D Sorry if I came off too harshly. No need to tell N54 owners about owning cars for their own pleasure, it's the only reason we drive a BMW. I agree with the Mechanic sentiment though, I'd not own one if I couldn't do my own work on it either. And dead jealous of that fuel economy - main reason I'm getting rid of my 335i :'( Merry Christmas, enjoy your daily driver! I do like some of the recent Volvos.
Absolutely no disrespect but... if BMW is this unreliable why buy one? I've never owned one and this and other videos make me want to stay far away from them. Very good looking cars but it has to be reliable without dumping a bunch of money into a car that already isn't cheap
In the case of the 335i, you'll struggle to find such a moddable car, with that much power, that's that nice to drive, for anything close to the price. I'd argue they *are* cheap for what you're getting.
Can you help asap to try to win this idk where too go my eyes really water and something in me wants to jump out of my chest 😬and if you have facebook you can add me my profilename is in joshua shepker
I had to sell my f30 i kept getting car anxiety always thinking something would go wrong or just knowing the n55 is not that reliable went back to honda lol
@@tonka10r99 yes they are but they still have issues i can name a whole list of things i also followed a n55 page on facebook and they are always running in to issues 1 valve cover gasket leak, oil filter housing gasket, electric water pump will go bad, oil pan gasket as well, they will also suffer from misfire, coolant lines that run to the expansion tank are known for exploding, they also need to be walnut blasted because they get bad carbon build up on the valves . The list goes on for the problems im good i made the best choice in my opinión i dont like headaches and my supercharged si maked 364 whp zero issues stock engine and i raced the world in that car its crazy how you can push more than a 335i in a civic and be way more reliable then one too . Now the b58 is a motor i heard was a major improvement in power and reliability
@@ANTHONYNI33 Well, cant really argue with that. I'm an automotive tech so replacing gaskets and water pumps etc. is just normal to me, for any car really. But i get it, not everyone is mechanically inclined. Also there are a ton of service videos on YT regarding N54's and N55's, some of the stuff you read on certain pages is just blown out of proportions. I feel you with the Honda engine, that's why i also keep an eye on the Coyote Mustangs, those engines are pretty much bulletproof in terms of power and reliability too.
@@tonka10r99 yes American company’s makes good v8 engines i might look into an a camaro ss or a 5.0 cayote. But i work on my own cars bro but im not gonna consistently be replacing on my beamer especially now that i have less time to my self thats why i rather just deal with the fwd lol and no water pumps are not a common thing to replace at all on honda especially a k series its rare if they go bad and oil pan gasket those things almost never leak its silicone based on hondas i replaced the water pump on my 18 year old accord in may and it was still working properly it was just leaking so i just replaced the whole thing lol