I've gone through the motion of lubing my chain, but this is the first time I'm understanding why I'm doing what I'm doing and whether I'm doing it correctly or not. There are a million videos telling us what to do - "lube your chain", "pay attention to your recovery", "do zone 2 rides!", etc. but without explaining why these things are beneficial, the advice is hard to stick. so would love more videos like this that not only talks about what to do and how to do it right, but more importantly why it's important.
Finally, someone at GCN who knows how a chain works and explains is correctly. Just remember, roller wear does not make a chain longer. It might make it shift a bit sloppy, but it’s only the pin to pin bore wear that makes a chain measure longer.
But they fail to appreciate that a chain ridden off road or in inclement weather on road gets dirty IMMEDIATELY. So getting it "pristine" through degreasing is really a waste of time. It's as much a waste of time as is scrubbing your tires perfectly clean after every ride. Why? They're dirty within minutes on the next ride, with all that "abrasive sludge" wearing things out right off the bat. Take care of your chains, but don't overdo it. They're consumable items that wear out. Change before elongation gets too bad and you're fine. The only exception to this is immersion waxing. I've spent 45 years cleaning chains with all the different traditional lubes, wet and dry. Finally purchased bulk wax & powder tungsten disulfide to make my own chain wax. Can't wait to finally enjoy drive trains free of gunk (even though I've always taken care to prevent the build-up).
Dude on Bike, when your chain gets dirty immediately, is that dirt immediately getting past lubricant & onto inner surfaces? Is it getting past the Molybdenum Disulphide or Tungsten Disulphide additives that chemically bond to the metal to reduce friction? Nope. There's more to cleaning a chain thoroughly before lubricating than just keeping mud at bay. Read up on it from Silca or Zero Friction Cycling
@@mikeburgess5760 yes, but it doesn't "get past" lubricants. They aren't barriers. Dirt combines with the lubricant and creates an abrasive paste. If you understand capillary action of liquids, you quickly realize that grimy lube, water & mud work their way into the links and rollers almost immediately. The lube doesn't act as a barrier - it's an attractant for grime. The advantage to wax is that it doesn't form an abrasive paste. Nor do dry lubricant powders, so they perform their function without the drawbacks of liquid lubes. And yes, I've read a lot on the subject.
If I'm using a liquid chain lube I always apply it to the inside of the chain links, i.e. the top of the lower run. This is so that centrifugal force, created by the chain rotating, will draw the lubricant through the chain. I use Squirt lube which is a wax that is applied as a liquid which then solidifies. No need to mess around with melting the wax first. My chains last forever... well a really long time and 3 times longer than when I was using an oil based lube.
I use Squirt as well, and this video seems to support that product choice. 90% of my rides are dry, sometimes a little dust, and I use product about every 30-50 miles.
@@grahamaustin9085 Last SRAM AXS chain was still measuring OK after 14,000 km. I eventually replaced it because I was changing the cassette for larger sprockets.
I’ve used Silca hot wax for over a year now and absolutely love it. I don’t have to worry about remembering to degrease/clean my chain and reapply drip lube every couple rides. I’ve even gone as far as waxing my wife’s and kid’s bike chains.
Excellent video! I expected this to be the typical 'keep your chain clean and lubed techniques' video. Anything but typical, Alex gave a pro level presentation giving us a better insight into the mechanics of our chain and why to lube the proper way. Thank you GCN tech. I use Boeshield T9 lube and have for the past 20 years.
I've been using immersive melt wax for over 30 yrs, but the last few years I've been using Silca Super Secret wax. I "hot wax" about every 1000 miles, but in between I wipe down the chain and apply their drip wax every 200 miles.
Which quick chainlock do you recommend for Shimano 10 gear Ultegra/105? I take it the chain must be rewaxed ever 300 km or so, so getting it on/off easy is critical.
I've only very recently begun to dive into the finer details of lubrication, and I've learned that I've been using a less than ideal lubricant thus far. I'm in the process of switching over to waxing my chains, beginning by learning everything I can about the process etc.
Excellent video! Thanks, Alex and GCN. I've graduated from using any old sticky wet lube (that I had to replace chains and cassettes because of!) to drip on "dry" lubes, to using hot melt wax. Learned from experience that nothing beats wax. Nothing even comes close. And that feeling of riding with a freshly waxed chain - WOW! It's hot melt wax every 200 miles under normal road riding. I do a hot water rinse first about every other time my chain goes into the crock pot.
I use Squirt - that’s the best chain lube ever, chain always looks clean, it never forms the dreaded paste and it’s environmentally friendly. Try it out, seriously good stuff.
It's fine, but far from the best. Check out zero friction cycling on youtube for intensive testing. Squirt comes out as an okay drip lube, but with penetration issues. Other more expensive wax based drip lubes like UFO drip are waaay better AND are cheaper when you take component wear into account.
Tried , good on kmc chains,they are made of stainless steel but not the best for shimano chains, after every wet ride shimano chains get rusty pretty quickly .
I also use it but I don’t know how often it should be applied (if used on dry conditions). Every ride (say 20 to 80 Km)? Every 100 Km? 200 Km? Currently I clean all the transmission after every ride, clean the chain with a cloth, apply wax, remove excess, done.
I've used it for a few years now on all my bikes. It has extended chain life, is very quiet, and keeps things clean. It has taken a little time to figure out how often to apply it though.
@@iggalan there is no set duration because it depends on the conditions you are riding. I normally wipe the chain at the end of every ride with a clean rag. If chain sounds dry or looks like it needs lubrication then that gets addressed. The TT bike needs it about once per season (weekly use, almost never used in the rain because that’s unnecessary misery). The ‘cross bike gets a full chain cleaning and relube every race. For the pros, it’s even every lap sometimes! With Squirt I found that excessive application lead to buildup around the jockey wheels. It didn’t need to be reapplied as often as I thought (road bike). I do not use it in bikes that will often deal with very dirty conditions like an MTB so not sure how it would fare there.
I use an upgrade to Si's WD40 hack. It's rhe WD40 Specialist White Lithium protective grease. Works like a champ you just spray it on liberally and wipe any excess off with an old sock. Chains are quiet, last a long time and no need for all the faff. Time is money
I have used approx. 25 different chain lubes over the last 30 years looking for the holy grail. The conclusion is it does not exist. I need to lube every 300km on average. I put 350 to 500km per week on average during the season. I clean my chain with mineral spirits (Varsol) until clear 3x then rinse with denatured alcohol. three years ago I tried wax. A real pain in the ass. Two seasons ago I was using Silca's secret sauce. It would last about 300km, but the chain would be black to the touch and I would have to clean the chain completely otherwise the product would not adhere to the chain if I wanted to do a touch-up to the chain. On the recommendation of Chris Horner (winner of Vuelta 13'), I tried the Squirt product. Best so far and it allows for touch-ups. After 8000km my chain has very little wear as measured with digital calipers. I run Record chains on my bikes. If Campy had a reusable quick link I would use an ultra-sonic cleaner.
Great video. And after you have cleaned and lubed your chain, check for wear. New chain links are exact 1 inch apart. So get a ruler in inches and precisely measure 10 links with the clean chain on the bike. If your 10 th link is 1,5 mm or 1/16 inch off, put on a new chain. Thats about 0,6% “stretch”. Some say replace the chain at 0,5% some say at 0,75%. And because a chain is so much cheaper than a cassette or chainring and far more easy to replace, just replace your chain early. So clean and lubricate your chain as shown in the video. And replace your worn chain in time. And you don’t need a chain checker, just a ruler in inches. That is so much more clear and easy. Enjoy your diy. 🚴🏻♂️🔧
Great explanation! A clean, properly lubricated chain can last 3 times longer than a neglected chain. In my opinion and experience the coating on a new chain is a preservative. It is there to protect the chain from rusting in storage and it is a magnet for dirt. After degreasing your new chain coat your new chain with a real chain lubricant. It will shift better, run quieter and last much longer. There is a culprit on the road waiting to eat your chain. It's carbon dust, from car tires. Your front tire picks the dust up and throws it at your chain. Carbon dust, a molecular abrasive, can get into the tight places much faster than dirt. Carbon rubs your chain the wrong way. Cleaning and lubing your chain can help control that unavoidable evil intruder.
Dyan Johnson just uploaded a great video on this topic on his RU-vid channel. Zero Friction Cycling is a great place to go to decide which lube is best for you. Wax based is the only way to go. Silca Super Secret, Silca Synergetic or Rex Black Diamond look like great options for people or do not want to do the heated wax treatment.
i use rock&roll gold [light] to clean the chain and C3 ceramic [heavy] to lube. i have used all kinds of lube but these two combination works perfectly for both of my road and hybrid. keeps the chain clean and lubed longer and I can easily get about 4k miles out of midgrade chains before needing a change.
I use racing oil on my every day racing bike, especially for wet weather. Because it better protects my chain against bad weather conditions. In the summer I use "dry lube" because it lubricates and shifts the chain well. I work in a bicycle shop and a while ago an email from SRAM went around asking not to use wax. We also notice in the workshop that a lube shifts much better and is quieter than wax.
Yeah, that's my experience too but I'm always a little scared to voice it because so many people swear by the waxy stuff (its a kind of emperor's new clothes thing).
Weldtite all weather TF2 is the best everyday bike oil by far, cheap too. Tho honestly I'd rather use engine oil than trash like muc-off, squirt, or whatever...
Thanks for the video. I relube the chain with MucOff dry weather lube after each cleaning as I don’t like to ride in the rain. I do a cleaning after 2-3 rides depending upon time availability.
Molten Speed Wax all the way! I never clean my drive train anymore. At least no degreasing. Wipe down some dry wax residue using a rag from time to time. Once thoroughly cleaned then waxed for the first time, no need to do any more degreasing of drive trains. pop the chain off, dunk it in wax pot, shake then dry, pop it back on the bike. Used to get anywhere from 2000-6000 kms using various chain lubes. Having converted to wax 5 years ago, last chain lasted 20,000 km to reach 0.5 wear.
I have been using wax for some time now and it's the best option there is. It lasts longer, it lubes better than anything else and you can touch the chain after riding and have a clean hand. Never going back to liquid lubes again.
Depends on conditions. Dry that distance should be fine but wet can wash out the wax fairly quickly. The performance of wax suspension bottled lubes should give you a good idea, a hot wax soaking is better but not massively so.
@@GSHemuli I just go by the sound of the chain, not a set number of km. But I think it could be around ~200. That said, I have an e-bike so there is more strain on the chain. It also depends on how well you clean the chain before waxing. I use melted paraffin wax without any additives so with a purpose made wax you can probably get a bit more too. Then lastly you can extend the interval by using the liquid wax lube when you start to hear squeaking without cleaning the chain or taking it off and it will last a bit longer.
@@martinmikus472 thank you for the info! I use Ultrasonic cleaner for all my chains. I will try some recommend molten wax from zero friction cycling and see how long it lasts.
I use squirt lube (wax based). Cheap and keeps the chain life long. No need to mess around with melting the wax first. Just need to fully strip the factory grease. Best of all, it's clean and shiny.
I'm a Paraffin Wax + PTFE guy mostly. Recently bought Tru Tension All Weather Tungsten to use as a top-up (& hopefully deposit some Tungsten Disulphide on inner surfaces to lower friction). I was using a large slow cooker but that failed, so now use food bags with ziplock tops (same as Molten Speed Wax or Silca use?) & melt in hot water. Initial cleaning (meths + isopropyl alcohol) the longest stage...
A few things learned in my recent marginal gains pursuit of chain waxing: 1. MuckOff marketing sucks (and creates a landfill nightmare) with their little UV lights in each package and glowing lube encouraging users to douse the outside of their chains. 2. It's important not to degrease the chain while on the bike (or be careful) because degreaser can or will (certainly if you service as much as I did) attack wheel and cassette bearings. I'm so impressed with my "cheap" ultrasonic cleaner. My "clean" chain left a couple spoonfulls of black gunk in the bottom! The wax lasts much longer so needs less servicing, fills more voids and saves the rest of the drive train.
I use Silca's Super Secret chain wax, which you showed in the video. I bought an Insta Pot, and a temp. guage also. You heat the wax in the Insta Pot to 140 degrees, put a clean chain in, and pull it out after a few minutes. It have been doing this for a few months now, and it works amazing! No more gunky chain lube, and greasy bike. Its quieter, and you can tell it's more efficient. i'm not sure about the long term for wear, but from what I see, your chain will last longer.
What a great video Alex! Really well explained, I wanted to immediately go clean and re-lube my bike chain 😊 Do you have any tips on cleaning the chain on a direct drive turbo trainer? I’m reluctant to do to much cleaning in case it drips and messes with the electronics.
I use "WPL Wet Lube" works a treat, bio degradable, stays on the chain in wet conditions, doesn't pick up much crap even on my gravel bikes (but it is a wet lube so it does pick up some) but emulsifies under high-ish (standard hose) pressure or with minimal brushing and no special solvents or degreasers required. Some of the cycling magazines made a big song and dance about how good it was, rating it above many of the usual suspects a few years back, but then it faded in obscurity for some reason. Weird stuff very thick like syrup when applying but a few turns of the cranks and it goes thin.
I don't think anyone has mentioned the quality of the chain itself. Often the ones that come stock on bikes are not the greatest. I usually wait for the inevitable chain wear and then replace with an Ultegra chain which lasts much much longer. Also, have modern narrower chains (a result of going from 5-cogs in 1980s to 12 cogs today) made the chain wear problem greater? I wouldn't be surprised.
Hi @GCN Tech: I'm Sadly missing one important thing: please precise WHERE TO APPLY the lubricant! Sometimes, it's done right, sometimes, it's done wrong in your examples in the video! If you are on the road and don't have time to let your freshly lubed chain sit over night, lube the INNER circumference of the chain! Therefor, apply the oil on the chain below the chain stay! The centrifugal force generated when pedaling then transports your lube past the pins and through the entire chain, to all those places, exactly where we want it to reach! When done wrong by lubing the chain on the outside, because of the centrifugal force generated by pedaling, all the oil is going to fling off, and there it is, where the real waste of product is talking place! Only ever apply lube on the outer side of your chain, when you have time to let it sink in and let gravity do it's job over night! And it's only the next morning, when you wipe off the excess product!
I think the oil penetrates the microscopic gaps between rollers, pins and links via capillary action and by virtue of its low viscosity. I don't think gravity or centrifugal force matters so much.
@@chriswright9096 it does indeed matter especially in racebikes if you shift the chain through all the gears.... And it is dangerous when having rimbrakes, because drops of lube could fling off the chain and hit the rim... Small but important security mesure tought at any swiss professional bike mechanic formation school.
100% brill, my dude. Molten wax.. undisputedly the best lube method. Silca Secret Chain lube.. arguably the best molten wax, top shelf either way. Imo the next best is drip on wax. My chain is so clean and quiet I feel privileged to use this stuff.
Great video, thanks Alex! You mentioned reversing rotating the crank backwards after applying lube to the cleaned chain. I may of missed it, but curious the reverse action as opposed to normal forward rotation - what’s the reason? Cjeers
Great video. First time I've seen a completely dissected chain anywhere really, so touché on that. However, I respectfully disagree about the bits on not lubing the cassette, the chainrings, and the external chain surfaces, so hear me out please. I put a drop on one tooth of each cog and ring after I lube the chain, and then I run through the gears - all of them. Then, I wipe everything down with white cotton while spinning the crank. I want to see the residue decrease with each pass. There is ALWAYS something left on the cloth no matter how long one wipes. While wiping, I want my external chain surfaces and exposed parts of the cogs and rings every so slightly oiled because these surfaces do slide against each other, especially under torque. I am sorry, but I just don't see how lubing only the inside of the chain gets to these surfaces. Do I pick up more grime? I would suppose so, but I don't see it because I wash and lube my bike every week, or immediately after any wet or dirty ride. Does my bike shift better? I wouldn't know as my bikes are always clean and lubed. I also don't mind jumping on a sale of a new cassette and/or chain. I've had my Ultegra 11 speed for 8 years now and have replaced both the cassette and chain once because of a blowout sale, not because I had to. My bike with the SRAM Red hasn't seen any sales! LOL! Anyway, if you regularly clean your bike and really wipe it down after oiling, you can lube away I guess is the moral to my story. BTW, your golf club brush works perfectly!
Since you asked, I use homemade lube of 3 parts mineral spirits to 1 part synthetic motor oil. I’ve recently added a little STP to the mix. I relube my chain about every 200 miles, give the mineral spirits time to evaporate, and then wipe down the chain sometime before the next ride. It’s cheap enough that I can use it liberally to wash the chain while lubing. I install a new chain once it shows 50% wear. I get 3000-5000 miles at this rate depending on road conditions I ride in. Ultegra 11-speed chains are cheap enough not to use high-priced lubes and extra time with waxing. I know that not everyone maintains their bikes well, so that may be cause for them to use expensive lubes. I find this to be the best cost-time benefit for me.
I found motor industry derived products often work much better, however, I also became aware that is also because they don't biodegrade (they are not meant to either). I moved on to readily biodegradable products which, although not as durable, work well enough and won't persist in the soil. Fenwick's all weather lube was the best one I found so far. Lasts a few hundred km and yet washes off easily with citrus cleaner.
It appears to me that one way to shorten the life of a chain is to "clean it too well". By cleaning down to and into the factory lubricated part of the chain, we can actually be removing quality lubricant and replacing it with inferior lubricant. Worse still, road dirt and grime will have easier access to the working parts of the chain. As in everything, there is a balance between clean and too clean.
Factory lubricant was good 20 years ago. Now it is terrible. If you are using any modern product, you should remove all of the factory grease before applying. See Zero Friction Cycling.
I use rock n roll red. It cleans and lubes in one so different approach. What do you think Alex. Chain is never dark with grease as it does not pick up dirt.
Would love to try chain waxing but Scotland is wet. For that reason I can’t be bothered going through the whole waxing process every single time after a rainy ride 😢
Wet lube all year round. I get about 2000 miles out of a chain before it hits the 1% mark on my chain checking tool (the highest is about 2800 miles, over last year's dry summer months, the lowest was about 600 miles through a particularly wet winter when I picked up a lot of rubbish off the roads and ended up with a grinding paste!) I also find that a cassette won't last much longer than 4000 miles, (measured by seeing if a new chain jumps on the sprockets when installed) but that's another story.
I estimate that I get between 2,400 and 2,800 miles on my chains and change at 0.7%. I have a cassette that still worked fine at 24,000 miles when I replaced it (when the chainwheels wore out).
That's pretty good going! I can't get 24,000 miles from one cassette (well, not from the most used sprockets on the cassette - it'd be nice if one could buy single sprockets so I could just replace the worn one). How many speeds has the cassette got? (I'm using an 11 speed, and I find it wears quicker than my old 8 speed which I still use from time to time).
I use the Silca Synergetic lube. The wax lube didn't last long in the wet conditions where I live. My chain cleaning interval depends upon the weather. When its wet, I clean and lube the chain after every ride. During the summer, dry weather, I clean and lube the chain weekly.
I loved that learned a lot and really like your presenting. I ride XCM and train mostly on gravel and dirt roads I rotate two chains and clean and lube them after every ride, no mater how long or short and I use a good waxy lube. I'm lucky if I get 1500km on one chain and 6000km on a Cassette.
Good job Alex. I clean my chains about three times a year and they run quiet and last at least three years, so far. Except my trainer, which has had the same chain for five years and doesn't get very dirty. It's only been cleaned a couple of times and I just add lube as needed. That said, I've never measured them. Maybe they're worn out and I just haven't noticed. Often I clean a chain because I'm switching from dry/wet lube with the seasons.
Service bikes as a hobby. Majority of my time is spent removing large amounts of oil and grease from chain, derailleurs, frame and back wheel. I use Rock’n’Roll Gold or Rock’n’Roll Extreme on chain after a clean and degrease. Cleans and lubricates and no mess. Bikes that are transported in cars now don’t mess up upholstery.
Castrol Power1 Racing 2T 2-stroke engine oil. About 1/4 the price of the best chain oils and probably does a better job due to more and longer R&D. Very good in the wet also, you can see the water beading on the surface but its also very easy to degrease with GT85 (also much cheaper than most drive chain degreasers). You're welcome. 👍
Hi Guys, I use to clean the chain with a thin motoroil like SAE 5W and a microfibre cloth every 100-200km. That of course includes the cassette, chainrings and rollers. Then, in winter, I just use the same oil for a slight lubrication. In Summer, I lubricate with transmission oil SAE80 instead to make it stick better. Smells a little though. Big advantage is that these oils are cheap and never harden. Which means that you do not have to spend even more money and time on degreasing. Just clean and lubricate and wipe the excess oil off with a clean microfibre cloth. My chains last about one year until they approach the wear limit after about 6000-7000km, cassette and chain rings twice as long. Considering the money I do NOT spend on expensive special products, this seems a good compromise to me. Remember: A new chain costs less than a new can of expensive lube plus degreaser. I did a lot of Enduro & MC when I was younger and that are really chain murdering conditions. But the same applied: A seasonal selection of thick and thin engine or gearbox oils if applied frequently do the trick at a fraction of the cost of expensive special products. Think of the camchain in an internal combustion engine, which lubrication does it get? Correct. And If you are environmentally conscious: Use bio-degradable chainsaw oil. Or olive oil in winter. Also smells much nicer than gearbox oil.😀 But avoid other natural oils like sunflower, they harden quickly, olive oil is best.
But engines are not usually subject to the same level of external contamination that chains are to create a grinding paste (& they have a filter to deal with eg soot) so not really a good comparison
Isn't engine oil optimized for the higher temperatures found inside engines? Having said that, I imagine your method works fine as long as you clean the chain regularly. I find some of the expensive waxy lubes don't last long (sometimes less than a single ride before the chain gets that dry, unlubricated feel to it).
by the time you've gone through the phaff of cleaning your chain and lubing each link, you might as well bite the bullet, clean your whole drivetrain and switch to waxing !
I think my technique results to even cleaner chain if using wet lubes - I remove the chain from the bike whenever I re lube, to completely avoid getting lube to the cassette and chain ring. I then lay down the chain over an old newspaper or rag and then apply the lube. The old newspaper will absorb any excess oil and grime from the chain. And finally wipe the chain down very thoroughly with a rag before putting back on the bike to remove any oil on the chain's surface. Back pedal the bike as quickly as possible for few minutes and any more excess oil will get to the chain's surface which you must wipe off again with rag. Repeat back pedaling for few minutes and wiping off until the chain is no longer showing any oil. This way, the chain will only have just enough oil in the pins to lubricate but little to none on the outside to attract dirt.
Highly recommend Rock N Roll wax and lube combo, stays very clean and lubed, I wash out my chain every 60 miles, spray it out with WD40 then douse it in Dawn dishwashing soap ( a great non corrosive degreaser) spray wash, dry with a towel then apply waxy chain lube, of course clean chain ring and cassette at same time. Chain looks new always, cheers…
Canadian Winter, with slush and salt, will T**** your chain. I run two chains on my Winter bike; one on and one spare. The T**** spare goes into Naptha spirits to get the crap that I put on off, then is brush washed in detergent to clean the street crap off. It hangs to dry overnight, then soaks in 3 in 1 oil. When to change your chain? When it's -15 and you kick your pedal back and it goes back forward, your chain is T****ed and needs to be replaced. Don't forget the rest of your mech when your chain is off. Hose it with WD40 to clean out the salt water and wipe down.
Rock’n’Roll Gold. Quick, easy, lasts and stays pretty clean. Wax process is too time consuming (I know it’s very good as a lubricant but it just takes too long).
i started using Silca Secret hot wax 2 years ago and will never go back to drip lubes again. The chain and bike stay so clean, and the drivetrain is very quiet and efficient.
I don't destroy chains - I clean and lubricate them with Muc-off lubricants when needed -, but on the flipside I had a chain that destroyed itself after just two years. The other day I took it off in order to clean it and, when I inspected it closely, I found out four link plates were cracked. At first I thought it was just some small debris that got stuck in a pin - some lint or hair, or something like that -, but it was actually a crack. The same with three other links. It was a PC-890 chain, the most expensive in SRAM's 8-speed range. Looking at the bright side of it, I detected the cracks in time and fortunately the chain didn't snap during one of my long-ish rides. And I could make some nice and shiny key holders out of it. Which was nice.
Rock N Roll says you should shift to the highest gear, i.e., small cog on cassette and big ring up front. Does this really make any difference? What do you think? They also say to stream on the lube over the small cog while pedaling backwards (I also asked this in the Comments of another of GCN's lube videos). Thanks!
One case to lube your cassette. I used a degreaser and sonicator to clean my cassette and chain on a regular basis. I've found that if i take the degreased casset and then store it, it will form rust spots. A quick wipe of oil will keep this from happening.
I've found a fantastic product. 'Wood Silk', furniture polish. Natural Bee's wax in solvent that boils off. Wax and solvent flow into rollers and then solvent vaps off.
Nice to finally talk about waxing. I have been doing this for the last 2 years and there is no turning back. No more degreasers and black gunk. A tip to apply the wax with a chain on is to have it crossed (bibby-big) to open up the link surfaces. Also, you can use this trick: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-96wmOjdneoY.html
What's interesting is that there seem to be several and often differing opinions on drive train maintenance, depending on the source of the advice. I use Rock N Roll Gold for chain lube. The directions on the bottle are in complete opposition to your instruction here. The bottle indicates that a healthy stream should be applied to the chain at the cassette. Perhaps it's because the product is a cleaner and lube combined. But it's frustrating to try to do the right thing, only to hear that I'm making mistakes. My search for knowledge has left me feeling empty.
Silca Synergetic in m opinion is by far the best lube I've ever used. Over 3,000 miles of UK conditions with all year riding and the chain checker tool only just went in at 0.5 after that many miles. I have used Muc Off (absolutely awful!), Fenwick's, and finishline, but silca is by far the best. I reckon I can get well over 3000 miles from my chain with better cleaning habits.
The reason for keeping your chain clean is not the chain, it is the more expensive sprocket. Chains are disposable and much cheaper than a good cogset. Keep your chain clean so your cogset lasts longerNever mind the chain, really. 😉
Hi Sjoerd, awesome video! Can you elaborate on how lubricant can be applied to the surface between de outer and inner links? The advice is to apply it the inside of the rollers, so how is that lube supposed to get to that area? Take the subway? 🤔 Sad to hear you're not invited to the bike festival, maybe we can crowdsource you a ticket? Interns are people too you know! Keep up the good work bob, Alex & team
Q for Alex: You mentioned that the wear was to the pins and rollers and a chain doesn't actually stretch. I've heard similar before. The think I don't quite understand is when an old chain is measured against a new chain, the overall length is noticeably different. A worn chain is longer. Any explanation for why that is?
I run 2 chains..always have a clean one to throw on once a month--Silca is the way to go, but dont go the slow cooker method..just drop in jar and shake..works just as good
It does beg the question, if the side effect of a worn chain is that the roller inner diameter is slightly larger, and the post outer diameter is slightly smaller, why doesn't the roller just find it's happy place on the sprocket/chainwheel tooth as it has more freedom to find said happy place, and the real stress of the pulling forces are on the arcs of chain that cover the front of the chainring and the back of the cassette sprocket where they are already seated firmly on their teeth. We say that the spacing between rollers has increased on a "stretched" worn chain, but it's both increased and decreased without actually changing the real spacing across the entire length that runs from the Top Dead Center of the sprocket and TDC of the chainring. If the chain is still the same ultimate length, is seems illogical that a worn chain is really responsible for tooth damage, as engagement at the back of the bike is not under load, and on the front of the bike is really under stress at the whole forward half of the chainring. Could this entire theory of a worn chain causing tooth damage actually be correlation with poor chain maintenance (dirt) in general causing friction/grinding down of the teeth and not at all be causation associated with a worn chain? Let's talk to some sprocket makers. I bet they know the real story. Before we accept popular "wisdom" let's not forget that skinny tire theory was wrong for way too long, because we failed to challenge it.
