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So, I have an orbea orca that the bike shop installed 28s and the rear barely rubs. another bike shop told me that it should be okay and that there is no problem. Youve mentioned something about frame failure, this is a carbon frame, I'm I looking at frame failure if I only ride road and no gravel? Thanks!
My tubeless hack; dont use sealant and stick with tpu or latex tubes!!!! Why the hell would you want to so this with your valuable time that you could use banging the hairdresser or on the bike??????
Recently I have used Muc-off sealant, and this seems to do well with washing the inside of the tyre with warm water with a little soap in it. Do this immediately after you remove the tyre, not dried out, and it comes off nicely just with a cloth. I think this is because it is a synthetic water-soluble latex used in the mix. Natural latex was always a PITA to remove, great tip about the natural rubber eraser, Alex. I have always found that reseating a used tubeless tyre the condition of the beads is crucial to keeping air in the tyres.
I just keep refilling every 9 months for the life of the tyre. When I switch the tyre to another wheel I have to scrap the sealent from the bead. Would be great to find a fast way of removing sealent from the tyre bead, and wheel rim hook.
honestly: 5mins for 1/4 of a tyre leaves us with 20 mins/tyre. Accept the 20g weight penalty, once you refill after 3-5 months and use a new tyre the next year. Tyre costs 50€ or less unless you ride top-notch material. If the tyre is below 30% of it's lifecycle, you're investing 20mins for 15€ that makes you ride less safe than a new one. If there's more than half of the lifetime of the tyre left after one year, you either have enough bikes so money is a non-issue or are cycling few enough so extra weight really is no concern. Really don't get the point of the video...
I have never needed to do this yet but i have a couple of questions... if you just add more pf the same sealant and just wait a couple of months, won't the old sealant have softened up again and be easy to get off? Also what happens if you just soak a dried up tire in water? Does that not soften it too so it can be quickly scrubbed off with a brush? Im guessing this may depend on the type of sealant.
From Oz… interesting… I think your sealant choice is the root of your ‘problem’. I’m running Trek /bontrager TL SEALANT and it certainly doesn’t dry like that example sealant. So my comments should be considered accordingly. I run tubeless in my road, gravel, mountain and adventure bikes plus my wife has tubeless ebike … best approach with the Trek sealant is simply to leave the dried sealant on the inside of the tyre, clean the beads where you need to, and that’s it really. What’s the point of removing sealant that has dried very smoothly and nicely inside the tyre? There’s just no penalty I can see. Or have 8 missed something !
Tubeless absolute marketing garbage. Tried it once never again. Too much faff. Too much mess. I’ll always use tubes. And to be honest this video confirmed my choice. Cleaning your tires for an hour, or just swap a tube. No brainier
had a bike stolen, did not get it back... didn't even report it to the police. Unless your smart enough to program a device that uses a sim card on your own, then don't bother. These companies are not trustworthy enough to allow them to track/monitor you, even selling the data.
🤣🤣🤣🤣 WOW GCN….. Ripping off video ideas from the small channels again..... I'm flattered!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Gz5n2iuUrSs.html
I got cheap carbon tri bars from aliexpress and put them on my winter commuter (an aluminium flatbar hybrid). It is now faster on the straight flats than my carbon road bike. Still prefer to ride the carbon bike, though. Speed isn't everything.
I like the fact that he geeked out even saving a gram on drilling the top cap bolt but didn’t compromise ride ability by installing 4 piston vs 2 piston calipers. 2 piston would be lighter but the extra power w 4 seems like it’s a necessity which is a smart choice matched with those rotors. And of coarse the tires being bigger/heavier no doubt makes for a much more fun and playful bike. Very smart build, sure it could be lighter but this is going to be way more fun as he built it imo.
If the beads look this gross its okay to clean them up because airtight seating can be a bit of a pain otherwise...but on the tread part of the tire i tend to just let it be covered in sealant. for higher volume low pressure gravel/mtb tires this layer is actually sometimes enough to seal small cuts sufficiently. i cycled a whole season on 50mm schwalbe g-ones on my gravel and 2.35" thunderburts on my MTB with dried out sealant and despite some cuts they always held the air sufficiently enough to not notice any air loss during a ride. in the end they just needed do be pumped up again after a few days. so...why remove it?
If I get insanely rich a would like a lightweight heavy duty build thats ok with 130 kg load. Maybe with 50mm dampers in front. I have 30mm damper now and guess it can save me from chrashes when hitting bad holes and bumps.
Does silca's remover work on clothing, had 2 pairs of knicks ruined with sealant spraying on them and setting before able to get home and put in wash etc.. stains black lycra brown.....
I have used that rubber thing for a while and it's the best one out there. I saw it in another video. Ordered the robber and tried it. Worked great. But it's a hard job on old tires. So I clean my tubeless setup every 3 months. It takes way less time and that way I also make sure that the selant is not dryed out. I'd rather have the fuzz at home than somewhere on the roadside. Just keeping your stuff in propper condition also makes the rider I little bit faster ;). haha.
