Well… the needsmore still needs more! Looks like a sunshade tube would help you in that glare. This illustration also hints at why heavy barreled 6’s are so popular… spotting ur misses is critical! I really enjoyed this Erik. This is excellent content for us novice shooters. Ur the best man… Bravo!
I echo what the previous commenter said. Your talking through your thoughts as you shoot, fully illustrates the technique and is incredibly helpful to all of us novices. On another topic, I have learned more from you about working up loads and barrel, harmonics in a few videos than many hours of reading and studying books. You are an excellent instructor.
That's awesome I use a primary arms mil/mil 4-14x44 ffp on a rem 700 sps tactical 308. I love my scope and reticle. I'm no competition shooter but I appreciate your videos.
The last shot of the first string of fire, I watched the bullet trace go high. It's hard to see, but you can watch it go just over. That is always cool to watch!
Thanks for sharing. I've only started shooting abou a year and half, 66 years of age maybe to late to get really good at it. Having a blast learning and good friends to help. My second precision rifle is on its way.
It´s a great video of how to use a mil reticle, but nothing has to do with focal planes cause if you do it in a second plane scope in the right setting(usually max) you gonna obtain the same results, maybe if you change power of the scope you can explain first and second focal plane.Have a nice one!
Well done Erik ,like they say some people can read and do and others can see and do, so much better with a camera on the scope to explain after a shot has been made and like they say wind calls are so much harder to make at around 300 to 1,000 yards ,sure you can see the mirage coming from right to left, but the speed is based on the waves that you see and because it was gusting as well, you have to wit till it dies down to send it and hope the wind does not gust as the projectile travels to the target, cheers 👍👍🦘🦘✌✌👌👌
As someone else said, ffp doesnt matter at all if you are just using your ticks for reference at the same mag lvl. Where it really matters is when your dialing dope at different zoom levels or giving data to someone else. Otherwise great video. Sorry for being pedantic
I love this KYL series. I’ve been playing along at 1/4 scale with a 22 and a 1/2” target at 125 yds is pretty spicy. Heck of a good challenge. I can’t imagine trying it with irons… you’d basically be shooting at where you think the target is because I can’t see them that far.
@@ErikCortina😂😂😂 sub-half minute iron shooters. I think old timers like that won’t be interested in the money you’re offering to come shoot it. Besides they don’t need the money cause they don’t have to buy optics. I think the offer you’d have to make to get someone to shoot the KYL with irons is for you to shoot F-Class with irons only for a set period of time. But that would be fun to see no matter what. I’ve got a Quigley rifle I’d happily loan you to shoot F-Class with.
For training and video purposes, maybe put white paper target behind the small ones. I understand it's all part of the game normally though. Great video.
I was like dont try to tell me this is the actual view through the gun lol. Then u showed the actual view, i was thinking no one on earth is that steady lol
What calibre are ya shooting it’s rock steady and no recall, could you do a actual video like this on how to calculate MOA for bullet drop with factory ammo theirs so much info but not clear like your demonstration like this it’s so clear to actually make out, 👍🏻🇮🇪
Hey Erik! Would you consider making a video over what reloading equipment you use nowadays?? Curious to see your logic behind your tools and what they are.
I feel like most people dont use that first target to see how far off they are from their hold. Theres a lot of data available there with that target being that big. They just see a hit and move on.
Ok I know I’m no expert….but they all looked high to me on the misses and the center on each target is progressively higher than the center previously. So wouldn’t it make sense if you’re still holding center to miss high?
Once again, great video. How you explain things is so helpful. Saw a few mentioned a sunshade. I thought that too; i have one on every scope. Is there a reason you dont use one? Thank you!
I would actually prefer a quality SFP scope for this; think Vortex Golden Eagle HD 15-60×56 with the ECR-1 (MOA) reticle. Delightful video with great content as always.
To each their own. I would never pick a SFP over a FFP when I’m using reticle to hold off. I need the flexibility of being able to move power ring if needed to find a target.
@@ErikCortina Neither would I, sir. You are also under a time limit, so hold-offs are a must. I should have clarified my personal preference with the previously mentioned scope/reticle combo was being in that you are shooting target(s) at a known distance and assuming you are sighted in for that distance. If that's the case, then you only have one true target with any relevance, and that's the smallest one. It's not like you don't already know this so no disrespect is intended here, just my thoughts. Take away the time limit, and I've got a 6mm Norma BR from the Savage custom shop that we used (past tense because my health and eyesight are simply not much to brag about anymore) to enjoy shooting golf balls at 600 yards and clay pigeons at 1000 with relative ease using the previously mentioned scope/reticle combo to either hold or dial for wind when sighted in for that distance. Obviously, a good quality FFP scope with a proper reticle is always going to be the preferred choice for most people. I have an Athlon Cronus mounted on my "old" 6.5-284 Norma that my sons swear by 😉
Dang Erik! The actual view through the scope was pretty bad with the sun in your face like that. Still.... great shooting considering you could barely see it well.
Good grief. I thought 22x was too low for this. 18x is doable but the target is as hard to see as I thought it would be. You need to spell Challenge with all caps lol
I’d blame the prefit. Go custom fit or go home! Flip a one size should fit barrel. You gotta have that muzzle runout at 6 or 12. With a prefit you don’t know what you got. Great video though. I enjoy your stuff
You definitely don't need the high spot in the run out at the muzzle to be at a certain timing for accuracy. That is a prevalent myth though. The only problem you can possibly run into with a barrel with an extreme amount of curvature is running out of scope elevation at very long range if it's pointing down. Bullet doesn't care where the bend is pointing and the barrel is still going to react the same way every time you pull the trigger.
@@derekhenderson-wb6gz Barrels all have a natural curvature and when you align the chamber to the lands/grooves then put an indicator on the muzzle end you'll see that the bore/barrel is wobbling and will have a high spot. He's suggesting that you need to put the high spot pointing straight up or straight down. I've experimented with this and there was no difference in accuracy no matter where the high spot was located but there was a difference in point of impact as you'd expect.
Not sure if it is possible, but a shotmarker frame in front of the KYL rack would provide some interesting data after each shooter on these challenges. We could see where the bullets actually went vs where we think they went based on the video.
I've had some rough days with glare at my local range, just like you were experiencing... One range faced due east and from 9:00 to 11:00 am you might as well just leave and get something to eat. Even with the sun shade on the scope it was near impossible to see your target even at 100.
Is there a reason you don’t use small strips of plastic ribbons. As wind indicators I mean I have no clue just curious. This way you may know the wind direction and speed.
Is that a camera mounted on your scope? Thanks for the information i love learning new techniques. I've never used a mil scope but I like learning how they work.
Eric, could you start the shooters clock on the report of the first shot something like, "shooter ready" (response yes) "fire" or "send it" then clock starts at the shot. The game is so different now, i mean what the heck.
Thanks for the video! I have been starting reloading and want to get into prs. This was extremely helpful along with the rest of your videos you create! Thanks! I have been looking into a similar setup as the one you have in this video, but chambered in probably a 243 with a 1/7 or 1/8 twist, how did you like that chassis? Would it work to get started?
What a great video! Spot on and really emphazes the importance if shooting a cartridge that allows you to see your impacts! Thanks for being so transparent all the time Eric You're a good man
It doesn’t affect the clarity much, but it takes up some of the eye relief space up. Once you start running it you’ll get used to it. Triggercam 2.1 is my preferred one.
I find that with KYL time is typically not a factor. After I correct my windage from shooting the first plate I only shoot when the wind conditions appear to be the same. That may mean putting your foot on the gas OR waiting until the last second for a gust to die down. Most shooters are impatient on KYL and rip them
