When I was taught about engine building back in the 70s that was one of the first things I was taught about The C clip ends at the top or the bottom hole
The necked down stud is there to controle where the break happens and it is not a thread failure. You can garrenty a thread failure with that type of stud .
There’s two easy ways. See if there’s a power commander 5 PTI available for your bike. That’s intended for boosted bikes as it includes a 3 bar map sensor wired in to it. Or, if you already have a power commander 5, you can wire a 3 bar map sensor in to it on the 0-5 volt input.
Hi Rob, so I've watching a lot of your videos and there great for info but I had a few questions and maybe I missed it in other videos but how do you account for engine balancing when changing major engine components like pistons, non factory rods and even stroker cranks unless they come balanced with the rods and pistons as a kit. Thanks
Hi my name is ADI מהקבוצה I am from Israel have a great fan of your work and I’m looking for a good connection from good parts to build Hayabusa gen two all gen three I have the both of them and maybe you can hook me up and help me a little
Would love to know how to swap a map sensor from stock to a 3 bar and then have the ecu work with it. I have a gen1 zx10r that I'm boosting, and have no idea how to use it with the pc3 and ignition module setup. So was just going to run it with the f1ight on with the stock sensor if it goes wonky seeing positive pressure .
I’m not experienced at all with zx10s. But I can tell you this. Just like the G2 busa, you can’t simple wire in a 3bar sensor and expect all to be well. The scaling on that sensor is way different then a stock sensor. On the g2 busa, you have to flash a new tune in that acknowledges the new sensor, and can interpret information from it. If the zx10 gets an f1 light when it sees boost, a simple way around that is like what we have to do on turbo G1 Busa’s. Put a tee in the vacuum line before the factory map sensor. Then put a check valve on the tee. Position the check valve as follows. Take the check valve and blow through both ends. One side you can’t blow through, the other you can. The side you can blow through connects to the tee before the map sensor. What this does is vents off any boost so the map doesn’t see it. But out of boost, it sucks the check valve shut, and the map sensor works as usual.
@@BoostedCyclePerformance I was actually thinking about doing the check valve ! I saw someone mentioned it in a forum and figured it could be a simple fix. Ik glad you suggested it as it gives me more confidence to try. I have built 5 , 600whp turbo civics and have tuned them myself via hondata, so I knew the map sensor would not be plug and play. Really not sure how to scale them in the power commander software though. So for now we will try it on the stock sensor and see how it goes lol I appreciate the fast response!
@@BoostedCyclePerformance you only use wossner? I read that their hayabusa rods are strong but gsxr1000 ones have defects Or u have witnessed a gsxr1000 wosner rods 600+ hp no problem??
What? lol install the pistons on the rods . Temp bolt the block to the case , I use old clutch springs and washers on top of a gasket to protect the deck surface (I keep a few different gaskets around for mock up) and drop the pistons and rods into the block like you would building any other motor with the block attached to the top case half and I always use the proper ring compressor never had an issue as expected. However putting the pistons in thru the bottom of the jugs (as you stated) is how a lot of guys trying to take the easy way out wind up blowing engines when they damage the oil rings . Just didn’t see why you did it that way when you were doing rods anyway . And arp gives you different trq specs when using oil over their moly lube
@@BoostedCyclePerformance I don't know if you're old enough to remember when pioneer products dipped into the high performance market. I used to work in an automotive performance machine shop and their products were coming out to rival the ARP fasteners and dorman products but ended up being junk. We sent the rod bolts off to have them tested and their tinsel strength was less than the OEM ones, needless to say the owner was pissed because of the amount of inventory he bought from pioneer. Kinda showing my age talking about pioneers debut into the performance market ( pushing 57 ) I currently have an 05 Busa that has a turbo engine that was built and tuned by Orient Express. 244@5.5 lbs and 329@11 lbs it has the velocity stage two kit on it but I'm wanting to go up to a gt35r turbo and get a 91 octane 400 HP. street tune put on it by you. Thanks for your dedication into the world of BOOST !!!
Sorry if I didn’t get back to you. I’m not saying that you didn’t, but I typically don’t call back anyone who doesn’t leave a voice message. I get 40+ calls a day.
@@BoostedCyclePerformance did you ever get a result from these rods? Seeing if you had them around before we buy some of the others and just mill/drill another oil hole.
@@BoostedCyclePerformance Okay, if you don't know of a way we can get our hands on a set then i guess we will grab the other ones and add oiling holes for the pins, ty for the response man.
