Greetings, I had a similar throttle issue with my CT125. Bought the bike with 1100 miles on the clock. One year later I had given up , the bike was up for sale. Kept telling myself the rest of the world can’t be wrong about the CT, it’s supposed to be a great bike. Started tearing into engine looking for the cause of engine gurgle, there it was. Cam chain tensioner was jacked up causing the jerkiness that made me put the bike up for sale. Made the repair and the bike has become the most ridden one in the stable. Good luck with the CRF300LS, a few hours with the new ecu may help.
Had to jump straight to comments around the 6 minute mark where you show the bike cutting out, mention that it seems to happen more with a full tank, and you found recommendations that this traces back to the charcoal canister. This was exactly my issue. The same would happen after a slow speed drop. I didn’t bother removing the canister. I just bypassed it and the stalling on full tank on trail or after tipping over is completely resolved. By bypass, I just disconnected the lines at both ends of the canister and connected them with a vacuum hose connector. I recommend you give that a try. I was set on removing everything and thought why not connect the hoses since I’d need to do that whether removing the canister or not. Easy to revert if you ever have to smog it, not that we have that concern in AZ.
@brianrogers1907 Amazon 65 piece vacuum connector assortment. You only need one to connect the two existing hoses. Optionally, Amazon 90 piece rubber vacuum caps if you want to plug the “in” and “out” nipples on the canister.
@brianrogers1907 hmm I replied earlier. Trying again… search 65 Piece Vacuum Connector Assortment, and, optionally Rubber Vacuum Caps Plug Kit. Just need 1 of the former. Pick the best fit. The latter are only needed if you want to plug the canister where the hoses previously connected.
ha ha ha....truth. This is precisely why I have my 2 bike garage rule. I could definitely see myself in a different universe with a garage full of like 10 bikes....
Watching Chris Moore of Moore Mafia Tune various bikes, He talks about the Jerkiness of on/off throttle position on fuel injected bikes. He shows on his computer where the factory has a setting that when you let off the throttle it completely shuts off the injectors causing bikes to quickly slow. when you get back on the throttle it opens the injectors back up causing it to lurch forward. he just switches this option off so that when you let off, the injectors still trickle fuel and reduces the jerkiness. he also shows how when your throttle is at 100% the computer only allows the fuel injection to go 100% for a few thousand rpms in the upper range. some bikes only get about 30% throttle in the lower rpms even though you have the throttle wide open. he cleans all that up and cleans up the AFRs so it doesnt run lean/rich. all on your ECU.
yeah that's definitely a notable part of it. I did mention that in the video a little about the short gearing and engine breaking, but there's definitely also an issue with the fuel mapping going between 0 and 100%. It cuts off way too abruptly.
Watching your video, I noticed that the movement of the front brake line when you went between some and no throttle was reduced with the mod, even if it was hard for you to feel. It can be hard to make a comparison of things you cannot measure. Good review.
Thank you for sharing! Been watching your channel since you bought this bike. I've taken the last 3 months trying to decide between a 300l and a Dr650 as I'm only able to afford a one bike does it all. Can I ask, do you feel the crf can run short bursts of interstate speeds of say 70mph without over reving? I ride to the mountains where I enjoy single track exploring. I like the Dr650 simplicity and deisel like power but I like the abs feature and wieght reduction of the crf. Any advice is appreciated. Look forward to future videos and ride safe.👍 Best, Steve
The CRF 300 can run at 70 mph, all day but the engine sounds much happier about 65. My CRF300 Rally has 5500 miles and can say I really wish I had got a DR. The 300 gets blown about a lot and has a hard time overtaking trucks on the freeway. If your riding is going to be more tough technical dirt trails the CRF is the one to get, if you're riding more gravel roads and BDR routs, get the DR.
Thanks for the ECU review I was curious if they help, maybe you'd need the exhaust and 91 gas to get a real test? My friend has both and it is a lot smoother than mine. Try this to help the throttle, it helped me a bit, it resets where 'zero' is on the throttle: turn key on, then off, then on turn throttle from 0 to full throttle three times turn key off wait a few seconds turn engine on and test.
Please let us know your thoughts on whether the ECU improves the exhaust heat after you have a few more rides in. I’m running the stock exhaust and don’t want a loud flow through system, but the heat can get bothersome above where my mx boots provide shielding. I’d remove the cat, which I assume to be the cause, but I reckon that too would increase noise. I like a quiet stock system. If that ECU reduces the heat any noticeable amount, I’d be sold.
Yeah...a bit disappointing...but I'll keep it in for now to see if I notice things over the longer term. I do feel like the bike accelerates smoother up to highway speeds. So far the gas mileage hasn't really dropped either.
I love how you start whispering (somewhat) when talking about the legality and also looking over your shoulder. You got all shady all of a sudden :) I don't think this is a very bad mod at all.
